Now as long as people from other provinces mention Cantonese cuisine in Guangdong and the diet of the two Cantonese people, they are all laughing and eating miscellaneous. The so-called "flying in the sky, except for the plane does not eat, the ground runs, except for the four-legged table does not eat", the rest are eaten. Guangxi people and Guangdong people give people the feeling of eating very raw, in order to satisfy the pleasure of the taste buds, flying in the sky, walking on the ground, swimming in the water, all belong to the living creatures, dare to eat.
However, as long as we look at the history of ancient Liangguang, we will also find that the people of Liangguang eat everything and like to cook all birds and animals for food, mainly because the people of Liangguang in ancient times lived too poorly.
In ancient Times, Liangguang, due to the large number of mountains, rough roads, dense tropical rainforests, miasma disease dengue fever malaria epidemic, is a barbaric land. Moreover, most of Lingnan is karst terrain, the land storage is insufficient, the land is poor, the crop yield is relatively low, the development of agriculture and family breeding industry is relatively slow, coupled with the squeezing and exploitation of the tusi government, which also causes the ordinary people in the Lingnan area to live in poverty.
According to the records, it was difficult for ordinary people in Lingnan to eat rice in ancient times, and they could only rely on the mountains to eat the mountains and drink water. As long as you can get something that you can barely eat in the place of residence, it is eaten as food to fill your stomach. In this way, many literati officials who were relegated to the Liangguang area recorded what the people of Liangguang ate, which also made modern people feel absurd and strange.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="7" > a little mouse brewed with honey</h1>
In the eyes of many provincial people, including modern people, rats are terrible and dirty things, things that spread bacteria, and are difficult to swallow. However, the residents of the Lingnan area like to treat rats as a delicacy, as a rare human delicacy.
According to the notes of the Tang Dynasty man Zhang Li:
"The lingnan people are good for honey." That is, the rat fetus is not instantaneous, the whole body is red worm, feeding it with honey, nailing the feast, and walking. Take the clip to take the chirping, chirping, so it is called "honey chirping"
Here, the "beast people" are an ancestor of the Zhuang people in Guangxi. Zhang Li tells that people in Guangxi like to eat honey soaked small mice for food, this kind of small mouse is also called "honey chirping". Most of Zhang Li's narration is also a retelling of rumors and others, because he has not personally lived in the Lingnan area.
Su Shi, a great writer of the Song Dynasty, was relegated to the Lingnan area in his later years, and also lived in the Liangguang area, personally witnessing the people eating honey at the dinner table at that time. After that, many literati also went to the Lingnan area, and also left poems and articles recording "honey chi".
For example, Kuang Lu, a Nanhai man from Guangdong in the Ming Dynasty, once fled to live in an area where the Zhuang ethnic group gathered in Guangxi. Later, I wrote a notebook "Chiya", which specifically records the customs and products of ethnic minorities in Guangxi, which also tells the cooking method of "honey chi", that is, the newborn, unhaired little mouse is brewed with honey, some Lingnan people also like to use the newborn mouse to brew medicinal wine, many also like to make live mice in wine, thinking that it is nutritious.
Wu Zhenfang, a scholar of the Qing Dynasty, wrote in the "Miscellaneous Records of Lingnan":
"Rat breast, Shunde Jiapin also." In the field of rats, the big one weighs one or two pounds,...... The big ones are hot and the most entertaining. There is no such thing in the feast, which is considered disrespectful. ”
The meaning of this sentence is that in the Shunde area of Guangdong Province, rat breast is also mouse meat, which is an essential dish in the banquet. Although it is a bit exaggerated, it can also reflect that the people of Liangguang at that time were very fond of eating rat meat, and put rat meat on the elegant hall of the guests.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="17" > two Eat snake meat</h1>
Ancient books record that the ancestors of the Lingnan area preferred to eat snakes. As the ancient book "Huainanzi Spiritual Training" records:
"The more people get the hair snake to think of the best dish"
The Southern Song Dynasty Zhu Yu's "Pingzhou Can Be Talked About" records:
"Quang Nam snake eater, city snake soup".
Here it is recorded that the residents of the ancient Lingnan area liked to eat snakes and regarded snake meat as a superior delicacy. At that time, the popularity of snake eating in Lingnan was that snake meat and snake soup could be bought in the market, but this kind of snake-eating custom was difficult for the Central Plains people to accept.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="22" > three Eat "toads"</h1>
Toads are also called "shrimp toads" in ancient books, which is originally a collective name for frogs and toads ("toads"). According to ancient documents, the problem of "Gui people are good at eating shrimp and toads" is that Guangxi people prefer to eat toads." This "toad" refers to frogs and toads. Due to the large number of mountains in the Liangguang area, there are "toads" in the streams, ponds and fields in the mountains, which is also the food that ordinary people in Liangguang like to eat.
However, it is difficult for people in the northern Central Plains to accept "toads". For example, during the Song Dynasty, the poet Guo Yin saw "the fishing boy net cover man is selling toads" in the Liangguang area, and the local friend invited him to persuade him to taste it. In the end, Guo Yin still flinched, unwilling to smell its "fishy" taste, but also because he felt that the appearance of the "toad" was too ugly, and the appearance of the dish made him dare not open his mouth to eat. It can be seen that toads in the ancient Central Plains were reluctant to swallow.
During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, a literati also recorded that there is a special "frog" cooking method in the Lingnan area- taro soup, that is, the fresh frogs are not killed, thrown into the pot to cook, so that the frog's gastrointestinal feces are boiled into a pot of soup, which is a delicious dish of the ancient Lingnan people.
According to the notes of the ancient literati, the frog skin cooked in the Lingnan area is "extremely rare", that is, the taste is smooth and tender, such as the meat or fillets on the belly of the fish. It is also recorded that among the toad eaters, "scabies skin is the best", and the "scabies skin" is the toad. Ancient Lingnan people dared to eat toads, but even modern people did not dare to eat this strange food.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="27" > all four insects eat</h1>
Ancient literati recorded that due to hunger, the two Cantonese people dared to eat grass and trees and insects. For example, Qing Minshu's "Cantonese Narrative":
Hundreds of Cantonese barbarians, ugly to the most complex, but the big or not out of the fierce, the two kinds of ,...... Shoot raw food, all insects are raw.
Another example:
"In the valleys of the counties, there are them everywhere, and the mature cultivate the fields and pay the land, and they are the same as the Han people,...... Sex does not eat salt
Here, it is said that the people of Lingnan dare to eat all the active insects, although it is exaggerated, but it also reflects that the ancient Lingnan people dared to eat anything due to hunger and lack of food.
But if the ancient Lingnan people did not like to add salt to their meals, this is also wrong. Because the ancient Lingnan natives did not dislike salt, but because it was not easy to get salt, which also made them have no salt to eat. In ancient times, salt was sold exclusively by the government, that is, the government sold it exclusively, so that the merchants who sold salt monopolized the monopoly of salt, and the government and merchants obtained benefits from it. Moreover, the ancient salt-making technology is backward, and the lack of salt is naturally an expensive commodity.
Due to its remote location, the Lingnan area is naturally short of food. For example, during the Kangxi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, an official who was serving as an inspector in Guangxi could not buy salt when he went to Guilin, the capital of Guangxi, to take office, and sent his men to search for a day before they got more than a pound of salt. It is conceivable that during the Kangxi Dynasty, the governor of Guangxi Province had such a difficult time eating salt, and ordinary people could not eat salt even more.
The Ming Dynasty scholar Kuang Lu's notes "Chiya" also records that among the recipes that the indigenous peoples of Guangxi like to eat, there are insects and ginseng, that is, sauces made of ant eggs, snails (snail beef), medicinal sauce (sauce marinated with certain wild vegetables), headless fresh (that is, silkworm pupae) and so on.
Another example is that the literati in the ancient Central Plains recorded that the headless fresh (silkworm pupae) was very terrible, "the beast people get it fresh, and the food is not cold", that is, the Zhuang people think that the silkworm pupae is very delicious, but the author himself feels very "cold" and terrible when he eats it.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="36" > five hard-to-swallow bitter vegetables</h1>
Some foods in Guangxi now seem very common, such as lettuce, bitter melon, cabbage, etc., which were found very bitter and difficult to swallow by people in ancient provinces, and they were also very strange dishes. For example, Shen Rilin of the Qing Dynasty also served as an official in Guangxi, and wrote a note "Guangdong Western Trivia" and a "Bitter Taste":
There are bitter vegetables without cabbage, bitter shoots without sweet shoots, bitter melons without sweet melons, and the taste of the three is as bitter as it is. And the Cantonese people are willing to eat. Isn't it the same? Gai Cantonese people can endure hardships also.
That is to say, the locals can bear hardships, mustard greens, bitter shoots, bitter melons and other bitter vegetables are as bitter as the dragon, Shen Rilin, a person from other provinces, cannot bear it, but the locals can endure it. The locals eat these bitter vegetables and exercise their ability to bear hardships and stand hard work. In fact, Lingnan people eat bitter vegetables are forced by life.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="40" > six like to eat river fresh and seafood</h1>
Although the agricultural production technology of Lingnan in ancient times was backward, fortunately, there were also developed water systems in the Lingnan region, and the river fresh and seafood resources were also very rich. Ancient Lingnanians can also go to the sea and the river to catch seafood, so fish, shrimp and shellfish and other river fresh and seafood are also an important source of meat for ancient Lingnan people.
For example, Fan Chengda's "Guihai Yu Hengzhi Zhi Worm Fish" records:
"Jia fish, shaped like small anchovies, fatty, extremely fat, extremely plump... People think that the fish is far away. Shrimp fish, out of the water, the meat is white and rich, like shrimp and pine beauty. Bamboo Fish ,... Tastes like mandarin fish. Nanzhong fish products such as carp crucian carp generation, all have. And shrimp bamboo two fish as a treasure. ”
Here, "Gui" refers to Guangxi, that is, the shrimp along the Li River are more delicious than the meat of the fish, and they are excellent delicacies. According to historical records, in ancient Lingnan people, in addition to traditional fishing methods, in the Han Dynasty also invented the method of fishing with cormorants.
At present, the important materials for Cantonese cuisine in Guangdong are also seafood and river fresh. In 1998, the Guangdong Yingde excavation documents also recorded that the excavation from today's 7910±100 years ago is the pre-Qin period, and the excavated snail shell and mussel shell tail have also been removed. This proves that at that time, in order to fill their stomachs and survive, Lingnan people also learned the correct way to eat aquatic shellfish, that is, like sucking field snails today, removing the tail and taking meat from the head.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="46" > seven conclusions</h1>
It can be seen that the Lingnan people in the ancient Liangguang area, due to their poor life, can be said to be hungry and choose not to eat, taking all available animals and plants as the source of food. Because of this kind of all-encompassing raw vigor, the miscellaneous, extensive and broad selection of food materials in Lingnan cuisine today has been formed, and the bold personality of the two Guangdong people who dare to eat and drink has been formed.
If you are interested in the history of Lingnan cuisine, you can click to buy "Chinese Cantonese Cuisine Story", so that you can understand the cooking story of Lingnan cuisine and learn the cooking methods of Cantonese cuisine.
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[1] [Song] Fan Chengda, Qi Zhiping School Supplement. Guihai Yu Hengzhi Zhiman[M]. Nanning:Guangxi Nationalities Publishing House,1984:43.]
Peng Wei,Yang Zhenhong. General History of Chinese Customs, Qin and Han Volumes[M]. Shanghai:Shanghai Literature and Art Publishing House,2002:32.]