Recently, many flower friends have asked, "How should the vine be pruned this month?How much do the third-level branches need to be cut?Should the second-class branches be pruned?"
In fact, vine pruning can not simply be cut according to the grade of branches, vines and shrubs are different, vines in principle, is to keep more branches, the more flowers, the more fertilizer and water are needed. So how to cut it? This depends on the growth of each vine and the characteristics of the variety.
The principle of pruning vines with different growth in this month and season
Due to the relationship between maintenance and variety characteristics, the growth of vines can vary greatly. Generally speaking, vines that have been maintained for more than a year generally have a large number of strong new branches, and there are relatively few weak branches and old branches. This plant is a relatively small vine and is much easier to prune and pull in winter.
For example, as shown in the figure above, the growth of the same second-level and third-level branches is very different, so it is difficult to say which level of branches to cut off for the vine season, but rather the branches that are weak in vigor and the branches that are too weak. As shown in the picture above, although the lower branch is a secondary branch, it is obvious that after the previous year's traction and flowering, the growth is very weak, and the whole branch is weak short branches, and this branch with poor vitality should be completely cut off when the total number of branches is sufficient.
On the previous year's traction branches, if there are strong new branches that germinate again, the part of the old branches with poor vigor should be cut off from the germination of the new branches. For the new growth of the strong branches, the top part should be cut off, each new branch should be cut off the top, appropriate stubbing can break the top advantage of the branch, so that each bud point on the branch can obtain nutrients in a balanced manner, to ensure that the new shoots germinate neatly after traction.
For smaller vines, we can remove all the leaves of all the branches, prune them simply, and then pull them. Because the vine with a relatively small plant size is in this month, the growth state of the branches will not be very complicated, and the leaves will be pruned and pulled uniformly after all the leaves are picked, which can better observe the trend of the branches and plan the traction distribution of the branches.
Do you need to untie and re-tow the branches that were fixed in the previous year?
This can be untied or not, depending on the needs of traction modeling. If the shape needs to be untied, it will be untied and re-towed to a suitable position before being fixed. This is shown in the 2 figures above.
For the strong vine with many new branches, pruning is actually more casual, if you want to bloom more, keep more branches, and if you want to have a refreshing shape, cut off more branches. And for some old vines that are not growing very well this month, pruning should be a little more particular, and can not be drastic cutting, otherwise the amount of flowers in spring will be too small.
If your vine is similar to the above picture, there are few strong new branches, a large number of short branches, thin branches, in this case, you can not re-prune, when pruning, you should pay attention to retaining slightly longer new branches, relatively thick short branches, retain 2-3 bud points, and cut off the rest. This is shown in the figure below.
This kind of vine with very weak growth is usually not managed well in fertilizer and water, and it will not grow due to lack of fertilizer, or the vine planted in the ground has been transplanted and has not yet eased up.
In fact, for such a vine month, the best way is to cut it directly to a height of 20cm above the ground, and start over, but flower friends are often reluctant to cut it, which is understandable, after all, planting flowers is to see the flowers.
Therefore, it is better to keep 2-3 full bud points of the stout short branches, and cut off the rest of the branches, and the amount of flowering in spring is still very objective.
For both longer and stronger new shoots, the apex needs to be pruned off a bit to break the apical dominance.
Generally, for the large-flowered vine this month, the branches can reach 3mm thickness, about the thickness of disposable chopsticks, you can bloom normally, we can refer to this thickness to prune when pruning, and the branches that do not meet the flowering requirements can be cut off.
And for the vines with small flowers, often the branches of toothpick thickness can bloom, so how many branches to keep, pick up with your traction space, and the amount of fertilizer. The more shoots there are, the more flowers bloom, and the more fertilizer is needed.
After pruning, the vines that do not grow well are basically retained from the previous year's traction shape, so there is no need to make major traction changes, just re-pull the longer new branches and fix them in the right position.
After traction, the shoots tend to be at a horizontal angle, and the bud points on the branches can germinate neatly.
It should be noted that whether it is a good growth or a weak growth of the vine, a sufficient amount of fermented organic fertilizer and bone meal needs to be applied in winter as the basic nutrients for spring germination and flowering. For the specific method of applying winter fertilizer, you can refer to the article on applying winter fertilizer shared by Blue Demon before.
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