Summary: The cosmetics market is constantly new every day, "Future Daily" will use a global perspective to look at the Chinese phenomenon, focusing on the new dynamics and new operations of the "digitalization", "industry-university-research" and "investment and financing" of China's cosmetics industry, as well as new interpretations of them. Our task is to torture the value behind something new and make it work for you.
Author | Editorial Department of FBeauty Future
Hello professional readers, here is Future Daily. Today, we focus on two news: first, the group standard of "Electrospun Fiber Film for Cosmetics" (hereinafter referred to as the "group standard") drafted by Northbell and 11 units was officially implemented; Second, Watsons and L'Oréal jointly launched the first "Trendy Play Makeup Zone".
On October 15, Northbell held the "Electrospinning Fiber Film Group Labeling Publicity Conference" at the 7th China Cosmetics International Summit Forum 2023.
Compared to conventional fabric membrane cloth, electrospun fiber membrane is a breakthrough carrier technology.
It is understood that the technology is in the polymer solution under the action of high-voltage electric field, high-concentration recombinant collagen and silk fibroin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and other natural polymers after disturbance and division, drawn into silk, by water evaporation, solidified into a trace of high-concentration collagen nanofibers, and the functional ingredients together to "weave" into a mask.
The finished film (solid essence) created by this technology is in a dry state, and when used, the membrane will quickly dissolve and be absorbed by the skin, forming a bionic invisible film on the surface of the skin.
It is understood that the "film" formed by electrostatic textile technology as a carrier, its single fiber diameter is only 80-700 nanometers, far lower than the fiber thickness of the traditional membrane cloth micron, which can effectively improve the absorption of functional substances, and at the same time better ensure the activity of functional ingredients.
The same formula is made into serums and electrospun patches respectively, and in comparison tests, the essence stickers absorb faster and longer-lasting. The immunofluorescence results detected by the HPLC method of Guangdong Boxi showed that after 4 hours of use, the penetration depth and breadth of the electrospun NBC nano instant film was better than that of the untreated mask liquid.
The larger the fluorescence range, the better the penetration effect
The group standard of "Electrospun Fiber Film for Cosmetics" released this time records the hygienic chemical indicators and testing rules of electrospinning fiber film in detail, providing a series of scientific basis for enterprises to standardize production and formula.
Well, that's the news, let's see what's the point behind it.
The application of this cutting-edge material technology to the cosmetics industry means a lot for Northbell itself and the entire mask category.
Electrospinning fiber is an advanced material process that makes membranes without preservatives, is gentle and safe, and degrades in water, and has been used in the past as wound medical dressings. The application of this process in the field of cosmetics, its technological breakthrough mainly comes from Northbell.
After five years, Northbell overcame problems such as lack of corresponding equipment and insufficient reference materials, and became the only cosmetics manufacturer that can use electrostatic textile technology to mass-produce instant essence stickers. This technology has moved from laboratory to mass production, and has published four patents and won the Zhongshan Major Science and Technology Special Award.
At this stage, Northbell has launched the electrospun instant essence patch with recombinant collagen as the core ingredient.
More importantly, in the "difficult" environment of the mask category, leading companies such as Northbell are still insisting on innovation and playing an exemplary role.
In 2022, the entire mask OEM industry will be greatly challenged by factors such as the epidemic, cost, and market. In this context, continuous investment in research and development, increase the technical content of the mask category, "high-quality development" is the best path for the good development of the mask category and related industries.
Past financial reports show that from 2019 to 2021, since Qingsong acquired Northbell, its R&D expenditure has been increasing. As of 2022, Qingsong's cosmetics business dominated by Northbell has 30 invention patents.
It is worth noting that in 2022, Qingsong plans to transfer the turpentine deep processing business, focusing on the large-scale consumption layout with the cosmetics business as the main business. Further strengthen research on facial masks and makeup products.
These investments have also become a solid foundation for Northbell's continuous research and development and innovation. It is worth mentioning that electrospinning technology is only the tip of the iceberg of Northbell biotechnology research.
At the 27th China Beauty Expo in May this year, Northbell and Sino-Singapore International Joint Research Institute Biotechnology launched strategic cooperation to conduct research on "electroactive materials". This technology uses electricity to boost the activity of effective skincare products, and this electricity comes from the bioelectricity in every smile and blink of an eye.
On the whole, the face mask category with increasing market penetration is transitioning from the "shallow water area" of flat replacement involution to the "deep water area" of high quality and differentiation, strengthening technology research and development, and enhancing product innovation capabilities, which is the new answer given by Northbell for the category.
Let's look at the second piece of news. Recently, A.S. Watson and L'Oréal jointly released the first "Beauty Playground" in Shanghai Pudong Century Store, which is a new innovation and exploration of offline retail experience scenarios after the previous release of "Fragrance Zone" and "Upgrade Healthy and LOHAS Zone", trying to bring consumers a new one-stop beauty experience.
In recent years, more and more beauty brands have gained insight into the emotional value needs of young consumers for "relaxing themselves" and "pleasing themselves" when shopping offline, and Watsons hopes to achieve emotional resonance with consumers through more immersive and design scenes, and meet their advanced pursuit of offline experience.
Inspired by the classic style of artist Mondrian, the "Trendy Play Makeup Zone" distinguishes different categories of beauty styling products through popular dopamine colors such as magenta, bright yellow, and ocean blue, mainly highlighting the fusion and collision of classic and trendy. The superimposed colored transparent glass and transparent light and shadow create a youthful and vibrant atmosphere, making consumers feel like they are in a colorful "beauty playground".
Watson's "Trendy Makeup Zone"
In addition to continuing the original makeup services, skin testing, fragrance testing and other services of Watson's stores, the "Trendy Play Makeup Zone" also adds a number of styling services such as the popular nail tablets and wig film experience for the first time, providing consumers with one-stop beauty solutions and realizing a full set of image creation from hair, makeup to fingertips.
In addition to a wide range of popular makeup products and services, the "Trendy Play Makeup Zone" implements Watson's O+O model and uses interactive screens to display popular makeup tutorials on current social platforms, allowing consumers to explore the trend makeup that suits them in the store, and also book a professional beauty consultant to match the beauty products used in the tutorial through the Watsons mini program, and unlock the "same" makeup on the spot.
Hongda Gao, Chief Executive Officer of A.S. Watson China, said, "A.S. Watson continues to revitalize the O+O beauty consumer experience through the innovation of store retail scenes. The new 'Trendy Makeup Zone' is not only a retail place for makeup, but also a fun space for consumers to release their imagination and dare to try new things with art, allowing consumers to experience the fun of beauty. ”
Hongda Gao, CEO of A.S. Watson China (second from left), President and CEO of L'Oréal North Asia and China (second from right), Vice President of L'Oréal China, General Manager of Mass Cosmetics Chemmed (first from right), Yalin Wang, CEO of Shanghai Century Place Real Estate Co., Ltd. (first from left), member representatives of A.S. Watson (third from left, third from right), and well-known artist Li Shamin Zi (middle)
L'Oréal North Asia President and China CEO Faber is also excited about the partnership, saying: "The 'Trendy Play Makeup Zone' uses a fusion of classic and trendy elements to attract more young consumers to enjoy a one-stop beauty experience in stores, deepening the penetration of beauty brands such as Maybelline New York among young consumers. ”
Watson's "Trendy Makeup Zone"
That's what journalism is, let's see the value in it.
At the "Watsons O+O Ecological Summit" in May this year, Watsons officially released its annual growth strategy with the theme of "O+O Experience Upgrade to Drive the Value of Users and Brands". The core proposition of this strategy is: "By providing customers with more attractive products, more diversified experience interactions, more efficient conversion and more accurate customer relationship maintenance, and walking out of a new growth path with brand owners".
Based on Watson's current disclosed growth strategy, "experience" is the key word in 2023. The retail chain giant hopes to establish a more humanized and personalized strong link with customers through multi-dimensional O+O experience upgrades, and collaborate with brands to leverage sustainable growth flywheel in deep and refined operations.
Different from the traditional operation thinking of "blooming everywhere" store density and occupying a good position of "golden horn and silver edge" to maximize customer flow and shape the image of the store, today's Watson's physical store function has changed from an important "transaction" place to more to an "experience" place.
Under the Watsons O+O model dominated by user thinking, the store has become a customer service experience place, not only providing product purchase services, but also generating "emotional value" in the warm services provided by BA such as skin testing, SPA, and makeup design. This will further enhance user stickiness and push stores to extend the value of "third space" with social attributes.
So far, Watson's "experience" strategy is working well. According to the interim results released by Watson's parent company, CK Hutchison Holdings, Watson's profit in the first half of 2023 was stable and improving, with Watsons China's revenue of HK$8.884 billion (approximately RMB8.185 billion) during the period. EBITDA EBITDA was HK$751 million (approximately RMB692 million), up 30% year-on-year (in RMB). In addition, store sales increased by 2% year-on-year.
Watson's 2023 Half-Year Report
The launch of the "Trendy Play Makeup Zone" is Watsons' implementation of the O+O model, and is also a further deepening of its strategy of shaping the value of "experience" in physical stores, with the help of this precise communication scenario suitable for Generation Z, the store experience will be brought out to reach more young people, thereby expanding the overall consumer group and increasing consumer stickiness.
At the same time, for the cooperative beauty brands, it is also conducive to enhancing the penetration of the brand among young consumers, which is a win-win move between Watsons and the brand.
As a retail chain giant, Watsons' strategy often represents the direction of the industry to a certain extent. Behind this move also means that under the competition of the Internet, Watsons is striving to tap the unique value of offline experience that online channels do not have, using the "volume experience" method to deepen the unique advantages of offline, continue to upgrade the dual value of driving users and brands, and achieve the stickiness of consumer groups and "break the circle" reach. This new approach to exploration is worth learning from other brick-and-mortar retail peers.
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