The joint name blocked by Disney: what is the "Han element"?
Author: Chunmei Fox
Published "Illustrated Traditional Chinese Costumes"
"A woman wearing a co-branded costume to enter Disney was stopped, and the park must know if she was not dressed properly or refused entry to the park", everyone ate it (although it has been almost a month). There are many eye-catching elements in this news, each of which can make the saliva into the kind of waterfall, and there are also some deviations in the dissemination of information and the processing of news, which further ferments the problem. The entry that was finally presented on Weibo's hot search was #Disney responds to a woman being stopped in a joint Chinese costume#, which is not necessarily the original appearance of the matter, but basically represents the concentrated trend of public opinion fermentation.
In terms of design, this is indeed a dress that is very similar to Princess Anna in "Ice and Snow Origin". Even people like me who have seen all kinds of Hanfu-related designs exclaimed when they saw the skirts in this news, "Can Hanfu stores already do this now?" ”
△ Screenshot of Little Red Book
△ Web pictures
The merchant also deliberately imitated and marketed Princess Anna's clothing.
This highly similar shape can actually be obtained after the buyer manually adjusts it, and is also called the "second way of wearing" by the merchant.
△ The "first" wearing method of the merchant
In fact, as long as you open a book, a certain sound, a certain blog to search for keywords about this joint name, the "second way to wear" that seems to be used as a backup is the real object of photo. Obviously, the selling point of this outfit is to become "Ana Benna, the princess on the run".
△ Screenshot of product video
For the hot search, the larger opinion in the Hanfu circle still comes from whether this set of joint models is considered "Hanfu"?
Because a while has passed, the original merchant's sales name has been difficult to verify, just like at the beginning of the incident, many buyers claimed that the thirteen stores that sold the product said in the live broadcast that they could enter Disneyland smoothly, and then The Paper also posted a screenshot of a chat with the store's customer service after the suspected buyer was rejected. But after the hot spot fermented, the merchant changed the language.
△ Screenshot of Little Red Book
△ The Paper Weibo picture
Perhaps based on the preference push, most of the comments in the comment section of the user of a certain book who originally posted were aimed at Disney, believing that Disney excessively interfered with visitors' dress, had opaque rules, and blocked it from selling joint names to make money. In July 2022, the public account "Disney China" tweeted "Good news! Disney Tops the Annual "World's Best Licensors" list" mentioned that "Disney's total global retail sales of licensed goods in 2021 reached $56.2 billion, an increase from the previous year ($54 billion)", which can be imagined that Disney's licensing is almost to the point of rotten streets. I wanted to buy a headset a while ago, and after opening the night, I found that the Bluetooth wireless headset priced at only thirty or forty yuan can also have a genuine Disney license, rounding up is an Antarctica. Searching for how to obtain Disney authorization results on the Internet also basically guides you on how to sublicense through secondary agents or third-party platforms to reduce the difficulty and investment cost of review. In other words, most stores that sell Disney's authorized co-branded products may not have any communication channels with Disney officials at all. Before the hot spot occurred, the buyer raised the question of whether the co-branded clothing affected the entry to the park to a certain store, which already showed that the buyer understood the entry rules.
△ Screenshot of Little Red Book
In the picture of the surging news and in a certain book, many people want to deliberately challenge Disney rules, hoping to mix through the previous levels and enter the park to complete the shooting they need.
△ The Paper Weibo picture
Discussing whether the dress is a "Hanfu" is far more complicated than discussing Disney rules, because it has no rules.
Merchants now call this set of co-branded clothing "Zhazi skirt" and "Chinese style skirt", and the question of whether "Zhazi skirt" belongs to Hanfu is enough to pinch the Hanfu circle for more than ten years, and it has indeed been pinched for more than ten years. It is even in a very paradoxical situation: some senior bigwigs in the circle advocate that the skirt belongs to "Hanfu", but they rarely buy and wear it, and for image considerations, they still prefer the Ming and Song systems; Hanfu enthusiasts who have been in the circle for several years or have just entered the pit claim that the skirt belongs to the "Han element", but they are the main purchasing power of such clothing in the market. For example, the hot fermentation of a certain book blogger, she firmly believes that this set of joint names does not belong to Hanfu, but belongs to Han elements, but she bought and wore it, she also replied to netizens in the comments that she did not like Disney, but she also bought Disney's joint name into Disneyland.
△ Screenshot of Little Red Book
It is estimated that some people have to ask, what is a skirt? What is the Han element?
The skirt, simply described as a bandeau long skirt, is in the chest skirt (see "Chest Skirt" historical basis is true?). How many points are fake?| "Hanfu" traces its origins" and "a hundred soul-returning postures in the controversy of "chest-length skirt" | "Hanfu" traces its origins) before it was a landmark costume in costume dramas with a Tang Dynasty background, and the image source was "Hairpin Lady Picture". It used to be a popular style in the Hanfu movement, but due to the lack of archaeological evidence, as well as the age controversy of the "Hairpin Lady" itself, it was zoned out of the Hanfu team, but it is still a relatively popular ancient style.
△ Part of "Lady with Hairpins"
△ The skirt in film and television dramas
Han element, is the abbreviation of Hanfu element fashion, early refers to some fashion designed from Hanfu style. The common practice is to change the sleeve length and skirt length of the clothes, simplify the layers, and use modern fabrics, such as these Hanfu merchants "Han element" goods more than ten years ago (another moment that reflects my qualifications).
△ Web pictures
But then "Han element" became a big basket word used to store the costume styles that used to be but were later kicked out of the Hanfu team. For example, "Jiuzi skirt" does not meet the definition of "Hanfu element fashion" anywhere, but it will still be called "Han element".
"Hanfu" can be divided into at least 3 cognitions, from which we can see 3 "Han elements" -
Cognition (1): Hanfu is a clothing style library, and only clothing made by strictly respecting these styles can be counted as Hanfu. This perception is the most extensive, and it is under this perception that the skirt was kicked out of the "Hanfu" library. As a result, those clothes that are related to Hanfu and outside the "library" become "Han elements".
Cognition (2): Hanfu is a religious flag, as long as it conforms to the characteristics of the doctrine (such as the right collar), it can be considered Hanfu. Some Hanfu elders advocate that the skirt is Hanfu, basically out of this kind of cognition, believing that the skirt has what they consider to be "the historical commonality of Hanfu", and also believes that the judgment based on cultural relics as the standard is the "hegemonic concept". This perception makes the boundaries of Hanfu more blurred, making the "Han element" more inclined to the early fashion style.
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Cognition (3): Hanfu is a kind of idealistic concept, as long as the mind recites and has a yearning, then the original doubtful clothing is worn on the body, and it becomes Hanfu. This is common in some public opinion evaluations, in order to "contain" some objects dressed with obvious errors but worthy of development, it is decently called "Han elements", so as to include the team of Hanfu, such as some Internet celebrities, stars, leaders, scholars of the ancient fashion.
△ Web pictures
From the perspective of nature and function, "Han elements" are more like a buffer belt with blurred boundaries between "Hanfu" and other costumes, other costumes here include fashion, but also COSPLAY clothing, lolita skirts, other national costumes and so on. Because the definition and boundaries of Hanfu vary from person to person, the buffer zone of "Han element" will also fluctuate.
In the hands of merchants, all ambiguous areas will eventually become business words. Just when I thought that the Princess Anna co-branding had been very eye-opening, I found that the popular Disney co-branding in a certain store in Thirteen also had Princess Jasmine. In fact, it doesn't matter what kind of princess this set is, when the product video associates the irrelevant design with the Hanfu style, you know that there may be nothing left in the world that cannot be Han elements. If there is, it is also that the owner is not good at Hanfu style library.
△ More than 13 product pictures
Recently, similar Miaojiang Hanfu, Tibetan Style Hanfu, Western Regions Style Hanfu, etc., have basically been classified into the field of "Han elements", and there is a feeling that it is difficult to break. Especially for merchants, the more this kind of "Han elements" are caught up with the trend, the sales are good, for niche clothing that relies on online social explosion, this kind of "Han elements" naturally have topicality and dissemination, and there is no need to send 3 yuan red envelopes Buyers are spontaneously taking photos and sending social media.
But from OL style, daily style, to Disney princesses, to exotic styles, the essential question is the post-observation of "Dior's "horse face skirt storm": What are we really missing? As mentioned in the book, it is easy to find the style of clothing, but it is difficult to rebuild the national aesthetic. What these styles have in common is that none of them are "Hanfu style". At present, the dilemma of Hanfu is that if it does not have a film and television drama style, feudal class identity, etc., it will have almost no foothold in the consumer market.
The original intention of "Han element" is to reshape the fashion aesthetic through Hanfu, after all, the full name is foot Hanfu element fashion, but year by year, "Han element" has become a pioneer station and experimental field for other aesthetic impact Hanfu.
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