Yayu, Yanu, and Yayu are known as the "three unique Ya'an". At present, Ya'an is making every effort to build the Sanya Cultural Theme Park, a tall building with landmark nature - a huge "Yayu" has begun to take shape.
Now people call "Yayu" usually refers to the split-belly fish and the heavy-mouthed split-belly fish, also known as the C-burrow fish, Jiayu, and C-burrow Jiayu, collectively known as split-belly fish. In fact, the rare fish produced in Ya'an is not the only one, and the Chinese of which is more documented is the "nà" fish.
On August 20, 2019, a wild giant salamander was found in the Duoying section of the Tsing Yi River
The Song Dynasty's "Yibu Fangwu Strategy" has a record of fish
Fish or baby fish
The earliest book that records the fish is "Boya", written in the Three Kingdoms period, which is the earliest encyclopedic dictionary on the mainland, which records "魶, salamander"; The earliest document that records that the fish was produced in Ya'an is the Northern Song Dynasty's "Yibu Fangwu Luoji", which records: "The fish comes out of the Xishan Valley and the Yajiang River (press, this refers to the Tsing Yi River), resembling a salamander, with feet, capable of wood, and its sound is like a child's cry." Shu people raise it. ”
The Southern Song Dynasty King Xiangzhi's "Yudi Jisheng" also recorded that the fish were produced in Ya'an: "The fish is out of the Yan Dao Xing Jingjiang, four-legged, with a big head and long tail, the sound is like a baby, and it can be a wood." ”
There are more and more specific records of fish in Ming dynasty documents. Feng Menglong's "Ancient and Modern Tan Overview" recorded: "The fish is out of the Yajiang River in Sichuan, like a salamander, and can also be used by Yuanmu, and Shu people eat (a character for '豢'). Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" recorded: ""Shu Zhi" cloud, Yazhou West Mountain Gorge out of fish, like catfish, with feet, can edge wood, sound like a baby, edible. "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" cloud, people in the gorge eat salamander, bind the tree, whip until the white juice comes out like juice, can cure food, not poisonous also. Li Shizhen's "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" quoted here is a novel written by Tang Dynasty Duan Cheng, whose original text is "Salamander resembles a catfish, four-legged, long-tailed, and can go up trees." When the weather is dry, the water is in the mountains, and the blades of grass are covered, and the mouth is opened, and the birds come to drink, because they suck it. Those who eat in the gorge must first be bound to the tree, whipped, and sweat white on their bodies before they can be eaten, otherwise they will be poisonous. ”
In the local history of Ya'an, it is often recorded that the fish is the baby fish. The Qianlong edition of the "Yazhou Fuzhi" recorded: "The fish has four legs, a long tail, and is like a baby, commonly known as a baby fish. "Republic of China version of "Ya'an County Rural History": "Fish, long tail, with four legs, can land on the shore, must foam wet at the beginning, common name 'moving beach', afraid of the beach and the water is urgent, can not go up, so er." Like a baby, commonly known as a baby fish, it is also a treasure. The Ya'an rivers are small, old fish collections, or rare clouds. "The Republic of China version of the "Xingjing County Record": "Fish fish, commonly known as baby fish. ”
The idea of "moving the beach" is not found in other historical sources, only in the local historical materials of Ya'an, and it is said that the old people in the mountains of Ya'an still have this saying. The connotation of "moving the beach" is not recorded, in context, when it means that the fish spit to wet the road surface before crawling, plus there is a lot of mucus on the body, the road it walks on is as smooth as a mudflat, hence the name.
The ancients said "gentlemen don't eat salamanders"
The meat of the fish is tender and delicious, and there are many predators and buyers. Fishermen in Ya'an even have to pay fish taxes for this. But the idea of not eating fish has never ceased in our national culture. Species protection, ecological balance, these consciousness of the ancients is less, the ancients are more because of hearing the harsh sound of this fish, and have compassion and pity, so they often in poetry or text, or directly or indirectly advocate everyone to refuse to eat fish.
As early as the Han Dynasty, Liu Xiang's "Saying Yuan" contained such an interesting story:
The former Nan Fang Zi process prince, the prince is to cook salamander. Nan Fangzi said: "I heard that gentlemen do not eat salamanders. Prince Cheng said: "Is it a gentleman?" What's the matter? Nan Fangzi said: "I heard that the gentleman was better than so Guangde also, and the lower than so narrow." than the good, the step of self-progress; Compared to the evil one, the original of self-retreat. And the poem is not cloudy 'the mountains end on their backs, and the scenery stops'? What a gentleman! That's it. ”
Obviously, the ancients opposed the predation of this fish, mainly influenced by the Confucian idea of benevolence, believing that preying on this fish was very ungentleman. In the Qing Dynasty, this call was more common. For example, Zheng Guangzu's "One Spot": "Doll fish, also known as child fish." Occasionally there are as large as 100 pounds, scaleless, the head is slightly like a carp, the tail is slightly like a catfish, there are hands and feet, like a human, the fingers are stitched like duck's feet, can chirp, like a child's cry, can land on the shore of the tree. The fisherman's net is ominous, put into boiling water to peel its skin, and cook it. It was sad and miserable. Shen Dacheng "Children's Fish": "The fish body is in human form, and it is urgent to catch wood; The most merciful of the storm, croaking in the forest weeping. If the above two historical sources are still euphemistic, Zhu Xishou's "Mermaid" is a positive call: "There are fish in the stream, four-legged, scaleless, like a lizard, several feet large, sound like a baby, commonly known as a child fish." The taste is greasy and fishy, the cure is based on rice salary, fish salary, wo with boiling soup, fish pain jumping, fishy salivation. But the pain was terrible, and it was worse than crying. How delicious the world is, why bother! ”
Another reason why the ancients opposed the predation of fish was that gluttony for this rare species was a manifestation of luxury. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, there was a Daotai called Zheng Chengji (Zijingshan, a native of Shuntian Daxing, who had been an official Anlufu Tongzhi before coming to Ya'an), he was very interested in the fish and wanted to entertain his boss with this fish, and he once wrote a poem "Send the Ya River Fish to Fang Bo Dong Guan Bridge":
The water of the Ya River outside Ya'an City, Mengshan Mountain under Pingqiang Crossing.
There are strange fish shaped like catfish, and their legs are cries up the tree.
Last year, when I was in Jinguan, I was a fang uncle.
Returning to the remnant blue wave cold, every instruction master has no place to find.
The east wind saw peach blossoms blooming again, and the snow in Seling disappeared from spring.
Torrential rain filled the countryside, and the sound of the beach was thunderous last night.
The fisherman held the net and got his wish, surrounded by a giant bamboo long and a half.
Feishu specially sent Furong City, fortunately did not break his word.
Bie Jun April snapped his fingers, and he was very far away from Xu Qianduan.
The poem is inscribed and longed, but I feel that the love is full of paper.
This poem was later included in the second volume of Wang Peixun's Essays on Listening to the Rain Tower. Interestingly, Wang Peixun added an explanation after the poem: "When I heard that Dong Fangbo was first appointed as the envoy of the Shu Domain (referring to the political envoy of Sichuan), he invited the government (referring to the governor of Sichuan) to drink, and first opened (wrote) Yun: 'When the official majesty sees the emperor, the customs of Shudi are extravagant, and he is willing to be thrifty and start from his post. Want to fixture (prepare wine and food) to be invited, no precious mistake (mountain and sea mistake, generally refers to rare food), no many products, I don't know if you are willing to give care? 'Governor Xu Yan. At the end of the day, there were only five vessels of fish, meat, vegetables and vegetables, and the house was full of joy, and at that time the two sages (referring to both sides were praised). Dong Gong, famous Jiao Zeng, Jiangsu Shangyuan people, Qin Zhi Juren Tanhua and No.; The system government, the first class Weiqin Gongle public security also. The fish, commonly known as the baby fish, has four legs and can go up trees and make children's cries. Observation (referring to Zheng Chengji) bought the property with more than 100,000 gold, and the building he built was also grand, and it was destroyed after his death. Yu once lived in his first place, and has changed hands twice. The descendants do not know where to go. Playing with this text, it is not difficult to find that Wang Peixun seems to be quite critical of Zheng Chengji (press, that is, Dong Guanqiao in the above quoted poem, Zheng Chengji Guanqiao) eating mountains and seafood, spending money on real estate, and building a grand pavilion. Judging from the content of the poem, Dong Jiaozeng, who was then the political envoy of Sichuan, also seems to have gladly accepted Zheng Chengji's invitation. If Dong Jiaozeng really came to Ya'an later to eat fish, how contrary to his original practice of entertaining Lebao, a scholar of Wuying Temple and Minister of Military Aircraft (then the governor of Sichuan, who solicited the big and small Jinchuan)! It seems that Dong Jiaozeng set up that dinner at the beginning of his arrival in Sichuan was completely for show, and it was a superficial article.
In fact, if the fish is really a salamander, that is, a baby fish, it is not only produced in Ya'an, but also in Guizhou, Hunan, Hubei and other places. The ancients have a cloud that "gentlemen do not eat salamander", not only that, but we should also try our best to publicize it, so that everyone around us knows its rarity and preciousness.
Zhou Defu/Wen