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Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

author:art Zhang Xiaoyu
Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

In the last issue, we talked about the development history of the Western glove from the birth of the Glove to the 17th century. A small thing has a huge cultural and historical change behind it.

Today, we continue to talk about Western glove culture. The last issue here: A Brief History of Western Gloves: This is something you're used to, but you probably don't know its culture

Elizabeth also loved jewelry and embroidered gloves, which set off a trend among courtiers and drove the expansion of the glove industry. Tassels, filigree and appliqué designs are all characteristic of fashion gloves.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

Henry Wriothesley's gloves feature a purple rose pattern and tassel trims that complement his fitted silk tunic. As Shakespeare's patron, Henry's gloves were most likely purchased from William's father, John Shakespeare. John Shakespeare was a glove maker and a "whittawer"—a type of person who made his own tannery.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

17th century men's gloves

This glove is made of the softest sheepskin, lined with pink silk embroidered with silver thread, which is a sign of social status and wealth. Slender fingers balance the glove cuffs, turning the shortest hand into an elegant appendage. It's clear that these gloves are for fashion and not for hand protection.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

Portrait of a young girl circa 1610

Daniel Mettens (c. 1590–1647)

Clifton Court National Trust Fund

As Shakespeare mentions in The Winter's Tale, gloves are also given as courtship gifts, when the shepherdess Möpsa says to her lover, "Come on, you promised me a pair of beautiful lace to make people feel sweet."

We don't know the age of the young girl in Mytens' portrait, but the rose she touches and the lamb's gloves lined with cream-colored silk on her hands may equally hint at the proximity of a potential suitor.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

Portraits of this period often appear in this type of ordinary glove, although other parts of the costume may be very elaborate. Gloves were purchased in large quantities: In 1608 Prince Henry of Wales' wardrobe listed 31 pairs of gloves, most of which were ordinary gloves.

Ordinary gloves are traditionally given as wedding gifts, and their quality varies depending on the social status of the guest. They may emit scents such as rose, lavender, amber, or musk, as glove manufacturing and perfume manufacturing are often interrelated. Those on a tight budget can choose to spray their gloves with perfume themselves.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

King Charles I 1631 Daniel Mettens (c. 1590-1647) National Portrait Gallery, London

The fashion of Charles I's period broke away from the heavy decoration of the James I period and ushered in an era of understated style that focused on high-quality fabrics and accessories. In Mytens' portrait, Charles can be seen wearing simple fur-lined gloves made from the softest leather from Cordoba, Spain – the finest leather, in harmony with the butter-soft boots that sculpted his calves and made them sagging. Squirrel or mink skins are usually used as linings, but since the number required is very small, more luxurious fur scraps can also be selected.

Western Glove History 2: From Shakespeare to the glove fetish of the aristocratic men of England

Miss Dixie c. 1750-1755

Henry Pickering (c. 1720–1770/1771)

Nottingham City Museum and Gallery

For a moment you may suddenly be in a trance as to why these men in the UK care so much about the decoration of their gloves.

After that, how did the glove develop in the West?

Let's continue to talk about it in the next issue.

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