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Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

During the Spring Festival, I promised Tom to take him to the ancient city of Zhengding, for the simple reason that Zhengding is the hometown of my college classmate Yan. And Hiko, who is now a university professor, is Tom's favorite aunt.

This Saturday, Tom was not interested in the half-day hiking activity, so we immediately decided to go to Zhengding Ancient City in the afternoon. Tom's trip to the impromptu is also full of anticipation, and life sometimes has to be like this.

Tom and I packed our backpacks, and when I took the subway, I booked the Fuxing number that departed two hours later, and booked a hotel near the Shijiazhuang subway through the Gaode map.

Beijing West to Shijiazhuang is only 1 hour by high-speed train. We still take local public transport to the hotel. There are three local subways in Shijiazhuang, and the subway on Saturday evening is not many people and is ridiculously clean, and the pie of a sightseeing train feels much better than the subway in Beijing, the imperial capital.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

That night, we stayed in Shijiazhuang, and the next morning, we took a taxi and drove to the south gate of Zhengding Ancient City, about half an hour away from the city.

Listening to the taxi driver, in recent months, Shijiazhuang was building an elevated road to and from Zhengding, so the road was congested, and it took us about 50 minutes to reach the south gate of the ancient city.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

The south gate of Zhengding Ancient City, also known as Changle Gate, is relatively well preserved. The most attractive thing about this ancient city is that visitors can freely enter the regimental city outside the gate, and they can climb the ancient city tower and walk around the city wall. The entire wall is about 12 kilometers down. From the opening of the city wall, you can overlook the inside and outside of the ancient city, and see the ancient towers in the ancient city, the vermilion and white buildings are embedded in it, and the lilacs inside the city wall emit an intoxicating fragrance;

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

Outside the city wall, the new willows on both sides of the moat are hidden in the water, and the water that flows silently is green. The purple-red peaches have bloomed, and the begonia flowering period looks like it has passed. The temperature here is much higher than that of the imperial capital.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

I wandered with Tom around the walls for a while.

A driver master surnamed Cui told me that in fact, the west gate of Zhengding Ancient City is more well preserved.

I asked casually: "There are more monuments in Zhengding than in Shijiazhuang!" ”

Master Cui is a native of Zhengding, and his family lives near the east gate of the ancient city. My question suddenly opened Master Cui's chatterbox.

"Zhengding originally belonged to the Xianyu Kingdom, Zhongshan Kingdom knows, it is that Zhongshan King Liu Sheng, he and his daughter-in-law have golden jade clothes, and the Xianyu Kingdom at that time was adjacent to Zhongshan Country. In other words, the history of Zhengding began at that time. And Shijiazhuang is just a matter that only happened after liberation! ”

When Master Cui said this, he was a little uneasy.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

"There is a big river outside the ancient city of Zhengding, which has existed since ancient times, called the Tuotuo River, which is the mother river of the ancient city. In Shijiazhuang, where do you see the big rivers that occur naturally? ”

I asked Du Niang about the various departments of Xianyu Kingdom and Zhongshan Country: "During the Spring and Autumn Period, Xianyu Kingdom and Zhongshan Kingdom were originally a pair of neighbors. Zhongshan Guo is a Han country surnamed Ji and believes in Confucianism, but it is not that it does not dislike ethnic minority style artifacts. On both sides of the Tuotuo River, Zhongshan people cultivate the fields, while Xianyu people are busy grazing their cattle. When the agricultural hurry ended, the merchants of Xianyu Country, who had some economic conditions, introduced the patterns of their tribes to their old friends Zhongshan Guoren, so many Zhongshan nobles were proud of the Rong Di pattern printed on their burial objects, and the economy of Xianyu Kingdom also developed. Soon, the Xianyu Kingdom, using the money earned from other countries, began to manufacture weapons and attack other countries. ”

"Some historians believe that Zhongshan State is Xianyu State based on the treasures unearthed in Zhongshan Country with Xianyu characteristics, while others believe that there is no connection between the two. After some careful examination, I think that Zhongshan Kingdom and Xianyu Country have both and no relationship. The historical Zhongshan State is not a continuation of the Xianyu Kingdom, on the contrary, it is likely to be an accomplice in the destruction of the Xianyu Kingdom. ”

And the address of Xianyu Country happens to be in the area of Baoding Zhengding.

In addition, from the four characters "Three Heroes of North China" on Changlemen, it can be roughly proved that Zhengding was once the three major towns in North China on a par with Beijing and Baoding.

The most prominent feature in the ancient city of Zhengding is the many pagodas, known as the "nine floors, four pagodas and eight great temples". Due to the interests of young people, no temples and temples enter. I specially picked Kaiyuan Temple to enter.

Kaiyuan Temple was built in the Eastern Wei Dynasty, while the Meru Pagoda inside was built during the Tang Zhenguan period.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

There is a three-fold mountain gate in the Kaiyuan Temple, although it is not as powerful as the pillars of the Greek Olympus, but it also gives people a solemn and solemn feeling.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

There is a huge "closed thin" in the temple, which is pronounced, which is actually a large sea turtle. According to legend, when the Zhengding Ancient City Housing Management Office was preparing to build a building, this large turtle was exposed from under the foundation, and excavated it was archaeologically proved to be a thing of the Five Dynasties period.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

Until now, archaeological excavations continue on the south side of the gate of Kaiyuan Temple. It is said that there are faults from 7 geological ages.

It took several pagodas, the largest of the Longxing Temple, and there was no time to pass.

Not far north of the south gate is the Yanghe Tower, which can be seen from the old and new green brick and wooden structure, which is completely newly built.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

When this building is combined with the Ma family courtyard, it has a new taste.

It turns out that this place of Zhengding was also called Zhending in the past. It is the place where the meta-song originated. And Zhengyang Lou was also a place where Yuanqu was performed in the past.

The Yuanqu Museum is located in the Majia Courtyard, a three-in, three-out Ming and Qing-style building with purple-red peonies planted in the courtyard and ancient wisteria wrapped around the pillars waiting to germinate. Tom and I were about to leave as soon as we saw a courtyard, when we were enthusiastically stopped by a middle-aged man: "There are two more yards inside!" ”

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

The middle-aged people simply followed us to make an introduction, and they were very precious about everything here. It seems that he is only a local, not a museum staff.

Only then did I really feel how the people of the ancient capital loved their homeland.

I think of when I came to Xi'an five years ago, I was cycling on the street with my classmates and asked my classmates what the road was called. A passerby riding a tricycle directly chimed in: "Front Suzaku, back Xuanwu, left Qinglong, right white tiger!" "I forgot the specifics of the introduction later, but I only remember that the tricycle passerby directly transformed into a volunteer who was like a river.

At noon, I ate at a "Hao" sex restaurant on Yanzhao Street, and the signature dish was a "rib". Small ribs, large ribs, cavity ribs, the price is the same, and both locals and tourists like to eat, and the grand situation is as follows.

After lunch, you can consider going to the Dream of the Red Chamber filming site to check in. It is a pity that the bloom of begonia in the Grand View Garden is a lot more monotonous. But Yi Hongyuan and Jia Mu's back garden peonies are in full bloom. If you don't see the Si people, you can see the Si flowers alone.

There are some cakes on Yanzhao Street, and I buy a box for 15 yuan, and Tom and I think it's delicious.

Take a taxi back to Shijiazhuang in the afternoon, if you have enough time, you can go to eat the donkey fire of Gao Jianmin Restaurant. Donkey meat and fire are plenty of portions.

Zhengding, the head of the ancient capital - Zhengding, one of the three heroes of North China

In the evening, the high-speed train returned home in Beijing and fell into red dust from the ancient city.