The gourd restaurant in Naturalized City
One
"Gourd Restaurant" in the past because of a wooden gourd hung in front of the door and named, pansy is second to "small class restaurant" and "big theater restaurant", so the meal is not as fine as "small class restaurant" and "big theater restaurant", but it is also a "second fine restaurant", now the so-called high-end restaurants on the market belong to this type of "gourd restaurant", but the sunset "gourd restaurant" does not sell sea vegetables, but sometimes it is not the case.
"Hulu Restaurant" is generally opened from five to three days at night, specializing in "zero seats", while "small class restaurants" and "big theater restaurants" are arranged banquets, not "zero seats"; Especially from the winter white dew to the winter solstice, we also sell goat meat and rice sake lees boiled "minds".
Brain
During this period, under the banner of "wooden money" hanging from the lantern hanging outside the door, which means that customers can drink "minds" with lanterns before dawn, so the naturalized city people also call it "slightly dim restaurant".
In addition to seafood, siu mai, buns, and raulo, the meals are all available, and the service audience is also very wide, from today's point of view: for the working class. Although the profits are not as rich as those of "small class restaurants" and "big theater restaurants", the "flowing water" is very large, which is "small profits and quick turnover" in the actual sense;
From the author's experience, I joined the work in 1975 and lived in a restaurant for ten years, and the teachers at that time were all "old restaurants" from the "old society", in their view: today's cooks are good, because the guests can only sell what is sold in the restaurant and what to eat? But this was not possible before the Republic of China - if the guest ordered a certain rare dish, the chef of the restaurant could not make it, or did it not taste right? Which is absolutely not a no.
The most famous "gourd restaurant" in Naturalized City is "Shuangheyuan" in the south of Xikou Road on Daxi Street and "Huifeng Xuan" in Xiaozhao Luxi, followed by "Fuyiyuan", "Yongheyuan", "Jufeng Xuan", "Beigu Fengxuan" and "Defeng Xuan".
Because "Shuangheyuan" is close to the market, and the "Erfu Yamen" is only separated by a taiguan lane and the Zadagai River, rural peasants go to the city to pay grain and fight lawsuits here to invite guests to eat, so the "Litang" of the number and the "gourd restaurant" sell rice upstairs, and the "outer hall" downstairs sells buckwheat noodle dumplings; The number and "Huifeng Xuan" equally divide the business of the eastern and western halves of the naturalized city, and the "treasure shop" (gambling house) in the Qing Dynasty is operated by the palanquins of the "Daotai Yamen" and "Erfu Yamen", most of which are located in the area of Daxi Street, and if you win money in the casino, you have to eat and drink, and if you lose, you have to squander and waste, which is the two main service objects of "Shuangheyuan" with the people who litigate in the countryside who "sold ten acres of land because of one breath", and the business is very hot.
In 1904 (the 30th year of Guangxu), Hui camel households began to go to Xinjiang, and the economic situation gradually improved, and in 1912, the only Hui "gourd restaurant" - "Beigu Fengxuan" was opened by "Zhonghe Horse Shop" and "Xinglong Yuanrao Shop" Caidong Bai Weili;
With the increasing development of Hui camel households, the Hui surnamed Ma funded the establishment of "De Fengxuan", and in 1920, "Beigu Fengxuan" distributed the "Nangu Fengxuan" to arrange banquets.
However, among all the "gourd restaurants" in Naturalized City, only "Huifeng Xuan" has the longest lifespan, established in the Jiaqing period, and began to arrange banquets in 1923, until 1950, when Cai Dong handed over the bottom to the workers, reorganized into "Public Welfare Xuan", and embarked on the road of public-private partnership. The fact that "Huifengxuan" has been so long has a lot to do with the later addition of bureaucratic capital.
In April 1865 (the fourth year of Tongzhi), the monk Grinqin the Prince of Horqin was killed by the Twister army in Wujiadian, Caozhou, Shandong, and the body was recovered from the chaotic army by a Tumo banner soldier, the person's surname was Zhang, a long-term worker of the Mongolian landlord's family in Babai Village, south of the naturalized city, who had served as the capital commander of Zhangjiakou after making military merits in place of the master "fighting the southern front", and later returned to Hua City to build a mansion in Xiaozhao Sandaoxiang to retire, and the locals called him "Lord Wu".
Monk Greenqing Wang Ye
"Lord Wu" often went to eat at "Huifeng Xuan", and when "Huifeng Xuan" was about to go bankrupt, "Lord Wu" invested a huge amount of money to make "Huifeng Xuan" prosper. With the support of "Lord Wu", in addition to Han guests, Mongolian "Galanda" and Lao Cai also came to the scene.
"Huifeng Xuan" mainly deals with farmers in Suidong District, Liangcheng North District and Fengzhen West District, and the bankers give cash after grain and food, so the capital operation is flexible; In addition to homemade rice wine, the shop kills its own sheep, and the pork shop also picks up all the meat to deliver, so "Huifengxuan" is famous for "oily meat", "brain" and "mandarin duck fire".
The oily meat is fed with large clay pots and small condiments three days ago, and it is substituted for stir-fry every day, so the color and aroma are good, which makes people drive away. A seven-inch oily meat, 37 years ago was 0.18 points, even the big boss of the tea house and ticket number came to "Huifengxuan" to eat specifically for oily meat; When the banquet began to be arranged in 1923, seafood directly purchased from Tianjin "Longchang", not exploited by local seafood shops, so the cost was low, the table appeared full, before 1937, shark fin seats more than 20 yuan a table, sea cucumber seats 15 yuan a table, naturalized city people in order to be affordable, more willing to patronize, the grain store in the south, the fur livestock store in the north all come to "Huifeng Xuan" to invite guests, many shops have become "Huifeng Xuan" "match".
Before the Beijing-Sui Railway was built to Fengzhen, peasants south of Jining also came to naturalize grain in the city, and after the autumn harvest, Xiaozhao passed through Wujia Street to Nanchai City, and grain cars flowed endlessly. Zhuanghu people pay attention to practical eating, for this reason, the restaurant in the naturalized city invented meat and vegetarian meat pies and sugar pies, which are as large as a medium bowl, and are placed in two plates, called "Mandarin duck fire", before the Anti-Japanese War, a fire burnt only sold two corners four to two corners eight points, the old man who rushed the car had half a fire to drink a bowl of vegetarian noodles (four cents) to eat, the elderly could not even eat half of it, buying a fire can bring half home to give to relatives and friends. The "Mandarin Duck Fire" of "Huifeng Xuan" is larger than that of other restaurants, and it is famous for adding oil and meat, and farmers who make grain in Nanchai City do not hesitate to run more to eat at "Huifeng Xuan".
Japanese gendarmes in the naturalized city
In 1924 (the thirteenth year of the Republic of China), the ground was chaotic, most of the small and medium-sized landowners in the countryside were robbed of poverty by bandits, the customers of the bankers decreased, and after the price of mutton rose, the "mind" was sold for a dime a bowl and even the city people rarely patronized; In the fall of 1937, the traitor spies were allowed to record their meals, and the people on the counter did not dare to ask for it; After the surrender of the Japanese invaders in 1945, the legal currency depreciated, and the meat and noodles sold in the morning could not be bought back at the same price in the evening, and the accumulated "thick cheng" was hollowed out for several years, and finally Zhang Bingwen had to sell two ancestral homes to pay off foreign debts, and the bottom of the market was returned to the "public welfare xuan".
Street view of Naturalized City