cause
Hi, I'm New Day
The thing is this, we often need to do color calibration for some monitors, so we need a color calibration instrument, but I have been renting it before, adding a postage to 130 yuan back and forth, I originally thought it was quite cheap compared to buying it myself, but I still felt that I still had to be ruthless and engage in one of my own.
There are many colonel colorimeters on the market, spiders, i1 Pro, etc., I will talk about it in detail later when I have time, because the new is too expensive I plan to get a second-hand, cheaper ColorMunki spectrophotometer. Say so, but still 1000+
There are two kinds of here, one is Colormunki is for office and home, and the other is for commercial use such as printing houses, of course, the essence of the same thing, the design except for different colors, different accessories, everything else is the same. As for the i1 Pro, colorimeters such as Spider 4 are not as accurate as this in principle.
Then flipped over, there is actually a colormunki that sells for 300 yuan a piece, but [no return] + [do not understand the test] + [random delivery], which is better than directly saying that things are broken.
But it's cheap, so I ordered it anyway.
Unpack a cybergambling stone
Soon, the things arrived, this one only has a body, and there are no other accessories
After careful inspection, it is very new, newer than what I often rent, it can be said to be rare and good, especially since it is only 300 yuan.
Even when I look at the plastic window part, there are not many scratches.
Then there was the computer test, and as a result, the computer prompted that the USB device kept popping up, I thought it was broken, and then the car overturned at the beginning.
After changing a line, plugging it in, the problem is solved, and you can see that the device is recognized smoothly.
My use of DisplayCal is also smooth recognition, it seems to be no problem, this is too easy to pick up leaks! I was running a test when it was dark, and as a result, I found that I had been stuck here.
ColorMunki is a spectrophotometer, it has a built-in calibration source, by rotating, you can switch between different functions, and now, no matter how I rotate, the software prompts me to put it in the calibration position.
I thought it was a computer problem, but I changed my computer and the same, which shows that there is indeed something wrong with this gambling stone.
Accidentally became the first demolition in China
I originally wanted to find out if there were any people who disassembled on the Internet, but I couldn't find it, probably because the instrument is too expensive. That can only be taken apart directly from my side, first removing the plastic sheet in the middle part.
After that, use a screwdriver to remove all the screws that can be rotated in the middle
Transparent window part, directly pried open
I don't think there's anything special to pay attention to here, because it's assembled in this way using plastic elasticity
The upper and lower shells, locked with metal buckles, were four pieces in total, which I pried with a scalpel blade
Some places are harder, and you will use a screwdriver body to assist you and hammer it
As long as the four pieces are separated, they will naturally open, but here it should be noted that the text side should face the desktop, because there are lines
The USB interface is connected to the body using a cable, and this module can be cocked and fixed by a mechanical rocker
You can see that the blue part is a small ball structure, which is used for positioning
Here we can see that two chips are used, but according to logic, it can be known that they are two sets of infrared transceiver tubes
The reason why the current position can be identified, relying on the reflective layer here, when the emitted infrared is reflected back by the white area, the voltage will change, so as to judge the current position.
The calibration bit can be seen here, which is a sheet of matte material that may be paper.
Obviously, there was a problem with the infrared countertube, and we went directly to the power test
I use double-sided tape to secure the part of the USB interface to prevent the cable from pulling when disassembling.
The main test is the infrared tube, because this part may be damaged due to long time or other reasons, but it is necessary to judge what is bad. For example, is the reception broken or the transmission broken?. Is it because of insufficient voltage or because of a physical open circuit? Wait a minute
First tested by a broken emission, I found that illuminating with a flashlight can be verified by self-calibrating position.
After I tested the lens, the data is fine, indicating that its other functions should be good, we can use it normally, there is no big rollover.
Then test the circuit characteristics, because you can't find this model, or measure it yourself.
Finally, such a simple analysis diagram is obtained, after measurement, it can be learned that the receiving end is no problem, the standby is 2.8V, and after obtaining enough light, it will drop to 0.4V, and the controller determines the current position through this. Therefore, the probability is that the power of the transmitter does not go up, after all, the infrared tube is also an LED that will have a problem of brightness decline after a long time.
There are probably a few solutions that can come to mind here:
1. Use other light sources instead of infrared tubes, open holes in the housing, and install other light sources
2. Use resistors to reduce the voltage at the receiving end
3. Use the switch, direct control
Solve and hit the wall
Try option 1 first, where an opening is required
But this scheme was not very successful, because the inner ring is iron, and accuracy is also a problem
I use a 1mm cobalt-containing drill, but it may be that the toughness is relatively high, so I didn't make a hole, and it may damage others if I continue to do so.
Then there is the second method, because the working principle of the receiving end is that the resistance is reduced after receiving light, so now the resistance is reduced enough, then we add resistance to GND on the receiving line to reduce the light intensity required for identification to the light intensity of the current infrared tube.
So the mighty flying line began.
The resistors used for bridging were two different resistors, one 6.8k and one 18k, because I wanted to see the results of different situations.
However, contrary to the original plan, I ended up using a 0.1mm flying wire
After flying, I simply combined them and tested them
The result is that it is not very good, although it can pass the self-test, but it cannot pass the measurement, the 6.8K resistance is too low, and it must be replaced with an 18K one
Replaced, assembled, tested again, and added a switch for easy control.
In addition, the original coding area was gray, which affected the reflection, so I cut the cover layer of the double-sided adhesive in two pieces and pasted it in the original position with resin glue.
Then, the self-test passes perfectly, and the measured data appears to be fine.
Of course, I found that this switch is not necessary, there is a side of infrared emission is normal, some people may ask, why not use the mobile phone or camera to see if there is light at the beginning, this I want to say that not all infrared light is in the CMOS can receive the band.
Because it was too late to do this, I hastily sewed a simple butto and took an ebony as a counterweight
Because the sandalwood is too hard and may hit the monitor, I also designed a sleeve to put it on
That way, it's time to test
End
I was still apprehensive when I started testing because it was so cheap that who knew what the potential could be.
But in the end, and the comparison values I used before were basically the same, I knew that although it was very thrilling, I did not roll over this time
Finally, I want to say a few points, the first point is, I personally do not recommend picking this cheap, because although I have this problem, but you buy it may be for other reasons, the second point is to weld such precision instruments, to heat, and then cut off the power and then weld, otherwise most electric soldering irons have potential, it is possible to send them away.
I'm glad you came to see my content, see you next time!