The first surprise of the new year was brought by Gucci.
When the music started and the lights came on, the speculations surrounding Gucci's Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection were finally answered: the first model came out, white slim short-sleeved T-shirt instead of bow shirt, brown wide-leg suit pants instead of vintage flared pants, black round hat instead of jewelry, refreshing; Next, more models wore blazers with large lapel silhouettes, light beige pleated trousers and other items to accompany the live performance of Marc Ribot's Ceramic Dog... Everything is cut out and simplified, pointing to the classic gentleman's wardrobe.
Delve into the brand's archives to redefine contemporary menswear with an improvisational and disruptive perspective
Gucci's Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection is presented by Gucci's core creative team. Following the spirit of "improvisation", the team draws from the brand's historical archives, reviving classic fashion memories, and redefining contemporary menswear with an improvisational and subversive perspective based on extremely luxurious artisanal craftsmanship, as the brand says: "Improvisation is also collaboration." When the free interpretation of each individual's mind is intricately intertwined, collective expression arises. ”
Crystal GG is a new lacquer interpretation of Gucci's classic pattern created in the 70s of the 20th century. The fabric has a dazzling sheen, vibrant colours and distressed pinks throughout the show, whether it's workwear, handbags or shoes, while the oversized size and loose fit give it a tactile and ageless feel.
The wide and slouchy silhouette makes the look improvisational, which is evident in suits with detachable elements, which can be transformed into sleeveless jackets and shorts.
Inspired by archival works from the 80s of the 20th century, the sportswear hides the hot dance code; while motorcycle clothing pays homage to archival works from the early 21st century; Distressed jeans adorn Gucci's original 1953 logo.
Bespoke pieces pay homage to improvised self-expression: vintage-inspired scarves can be tied to a bag or used as a jeans patch; The exposed lining of the deconstructed sportswear is a decorative detail; Traditional evening trousers transform into elegant floor-length skirts that loom over the legs. These effects are intended to build plausible structures.
On closer inspection, the classic jogging shoes are made from lightweight leather, while the cropped coat that appears to be covered with feathers is actually embroidered with multi-dimensional white sequins, showcasing the brand's craftsmanship.
The Jackie bag has been reinterpreted for softer construction and decorated with a push-in lock originally designed by Tom Ford for Gucci. The Bacchus bag also features selected fabrics that change the previous decorative structure, but still retain the iconic tiger head buckle and new belt. The highlight of the Crystal GG collection is the new rectangular tote bag and the classic 200s round-toe ankle boots. Also on display are high-heeled slippers, Princetown slippers with Gucci's signature green-red-green webbing and classic horsebit loafers. The soft quilted motorcycle boots debuted in a variety of colors.
Whether in structure or style, Gucci's menswear collection this season highlights the tension inspired by traditional design, embodying the freedom and unbridled nature of contemporary masculinity. The creative team refined visual material from the rich archive to present it in a contemporary aesthetic, skillfully balancing the brand's history with the current transformation.
Return to the traditional fashion calendar and find a new direction from the old order
Looking at the entire fashion industry, perhaps no leading luxury brand can find its own pace and direction in the process of constantly attacking and rebelling against the traditional fashion week.
Looking back at every innovation in the past, Gucci seems to be willful, but in fact it is a precise prediction after a deep understanding of fashion industry trends: in 2017, Gucci changed the tradition of menswear and women's wear in the fashion industry to walk the catwalk separately, merging the two collections and presenting a big show every quarter, at a time when androgynous fashion ideas were in the ascendant, which could be described as leading the way and perfectly fitting with the gender-free shift in public consciousness; In 2020, Gucci broke the old order again, announcing that instead of following the traditional fashion week schedule four times a year, it held fashion shows twice a year, at a time when the new crown pneumonia epidemic was raging, and fashion weeks were either postponed, cancelled or moved to online platforms, and instead of sticking to the rules, it was better to break the mold and give designers who had been struggling with the tight schedule of fashion week for a long time have a respite; And there are still a few flashes in the meantime, such as returning to Milan Fashion Week in early 2022 and bringing the Exquisite Gucci collection with German sports brand Adidas, which has earned enough topics and eyeballs.
This high-profile return to the 2023 Fall/Winter Milan Men's Fashion Week is also the result of Gucci's careful consideration based on changes in the actual situation: from the supply side, as the global new crown pneumonia epidemic prevention and control situation continues to improve, the industrial chain and supply chain have been significantly repaired, and the supply and transportation efficiency has been greatly improved; From the demand side, the consumer market has gradually recovered, especially the optimization and adjustment of China's epidemic prevention and control measures, injecting new vitality into the recovery of high-end consumption; At the marketing level, Fashion Week not only invites a number of brands to show their talents, but also brings together a large number of media, celebrities, KOLs and buyers to participate in the grand event, the gathering effect formed by the former and the huge traffic of the latter form a synergy, which is enough to bring considerable voice and exposure to the participating brands.
Taking this show as an example, there were actors represented by Percy Hynes White, Jeremy O Harris, etc., Internet celebrities represented by Nick Kauffman, Francis Bourgeois, Zack Lugo, Mattia Stanga and Marcus Butler, and Kim Jong-in, the global spokesperson of Gucci and member of the Korean boy idol group EXO, in Asia. Earned enough eyeballs and topics for the brand.
Kim Jong-in, the global spokesperson of Gucci and a member of the Korean boy idol group EXO
It's not impossible to do this alone, Gucci has proven that he fully has this ability through a number of self-arranged and spectacular shows during the three-year pandemic, and when the gloom of the pandemic gradually lifts, it is wiser to participate in traditional fashion Sundays. This not only means that the magnificent runway, huge series, and dazzling stars are the ultimate embodiment of the dream making ability of luxury brands; It also means the tangible reality, the reappearance of the past, the restoration of order, and people urgently need such ritualistic activities to awaken the desire for a better life.
Digital means continue to empower the big show. Gucci, who once set a record and caused a sensation with a 12-hour marathon live fashion show, understands that only innovative communication methods can improve communication effectiveness. In addition to allowing the public to witness the fashion scene without leaving home, Gucci also invited stars such as Lu Han, Chen Zheyuan, Zhou Yiran, Qingli and other stars to participate in Weibo interaction, constantly amplifying brand signals, and once again revealing the development trend of fashion week - online and offline integration and symbiosis, the two complement each other.
Bet on the menswear track and re-examine the position of the menswear business in brand development
From the launch of the joint HA HA HA collection in June 2022 with popular British male singer Harry Styles during the 2023 Spring/Summer Milan Men's Fashion Week, to the first offline menswear show in three years, Gucci keenly captured the market trend, followed the "market", adjusted and optimized its product portfolio strategy in real time, re-examined the position of the menswear business in brand development, corrected the long-term "preference for women" in the fashion industry, and met the changing consumer demand.
According to data released by international market research firm Imarc, the sales of the global menswear market in 2021 were $533.3 billion, and it is expected that the global menswear market will grow at a compound annual growth rate of 5.92% over the 5 years from 2022 to 2027, and the sales of the menswear market will reach $746.9 billion by 2027.
In the face of the menswear market with great potential, Gucci is not only determined but also confident.
First, in the past 10 years, men's wear has experienced the baptism of neutral ideas, street trends, and casual styles, gradually getting rid of the stereotypes and constraints of suits, trousers and shirts, whether it is fabric, color, silhouette, design has made great breakthroughs, and the categories have been greatly enriched. Gucci has contributed to the establishment of a new landscape of contemporary menswear with the momentum of destruction and decay, and the concept of genderless dressing that it once promoted is an important force in redefining contemporary menswear; With its track record, acceptance and inclusiveness and contemporary aesthetics, Gucci is ready to open a new chapter in menswear.
Second, more and more men pay attention to style and fashion, and are willing to invest in their image. On the one hand, thanks to the rapid development of social media, celebrities, dress bloggers and opinion leaders have appeared and personally interpreted, and have subtly completed the cultivation and guidance of the aesthetics of the majority of male consumers; On the other hand, the updated iteration of the consumer group itself has also promoted men's wear to become impossible to ignore, the younger generation on the consumer market, they grew up in an open social atmosphere, there is a natural demand for personalized dress, eager to pass on personal fashion taste through dressing, Gucci bet on the men's track is timely.
Third, the Italian fashion industry with menswear as its iconic product is actively recovering. Raffaello Napoleone, president of Pitti Immagine, the parent company of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Italy's most well-known menswear exhibition, said to the media: "Italian menswear brands are accelerating their recovery, the United States and Central Europe are becoming the main markets for Made in Italy menswear..., 2022 is not only a year of recovery, but also a year of accelerated development of men's fashion." "Considering that this recovery is based on the premise of local outbreaks of conflicts in the world and epidemic lockdowns, with the optimization of epidemic prevention and control in major economies in the world in 2023, the certainty factor increases, and the market's expectations for demand recovery are more worth looking forward to." As an Italian luxury brand founded for more than 100 years, Gucci has already flowed men's genes in its bones, and taking advantage of this shareholder wind, it is bound to make high-end men's wear its new performance growth point.
In addition, Gucci is taking a fresh look at its internal team, having appointed Maria Cristina Lomanto as Executive Vice President and Brand General Manager, who will work closely with the design and marketing teams, as well as the supply chain, to oversee Gucci's full return to Fashion Week as early as 2023, with six collections per year.
President and CEO Marco Bizzarri
President and CEO continues to be Marco Bizzarri, and Francois-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering, Gucci's parent company, told WWD during the show: "I need Marco to join me in opening a new chapter for Gucci, and I am fully confident that we will succeed." ”
It's time for Gucci to return to a more traditional fashion week. WWD
Content Planning Huayi Tomorrow Fashion Content Center
Written by Ming
Image source: Courtesy of the brand