In recent years, more and more people are troubled by sensitive skin, and epidemiological studies have shown that the prevalence of sensitive skin in women is 60%~70%, and that of men is 50%~60% [1]. Sensitive skin refers to skin that exhibits high reactivity and low tolerance, and is generally considered to be a metastable state of skin.
Skin care products claim that sensitive skin is available and soothing has basically become standard, and domestic skin care trends and brand representatives led by ingredients are also emerging, according to the "2022 Cosmetic Efficacy Raw Material Inventory and Trend Analysis" report of the Beauty Research Institute.
In the list of growth potential, the soothing ingredients led the market growth with ingredients such as olea, white truffle, and sea fennel, and the declared ingredient "oil olive" increased by 1506.9% year-on-year, which is preferred in the application of soothing and repairing, improving redness and acne skin products.
Source: Beauty Research Institute "2022 Cosmetic Efficacy Raw Material Inventory and Trend Analysis"
In the list of popular raw materials for soothing and anti-allergy, most of the classic plant extract raw materials and anti-inflammatory extracts represented by Centella Asiatica often rank at the top of the list.
Source: Beauty Research Institute "2022 Cosmetic Efficacy Raw Material Inventory and Trend Analysis"
Centella asiatica and olea are both anti-inflammatory players, one is the evergreen representative, the other is the potential representative, which is better, we combine application cases to think about the matching ideas of ingredient applications.
Olive leaf extract
Mainly distributed in European Mediterranean coastal countries and California in the United States, it mainly uses fresh fruits to process olive oil, known as the "queen of vegetable oil". Modern biotechnology analysis shows that the active substances in olea leaves mainly include olive polyphenols, flavonoids, schizopherol terpenes (including oleuropein), dislavonoids, etc., and its antioxidant bioactive content is higher than that of olea fruit and stem.
As the representative brand of oil olive ingredients this year, I have to mention a originator product - Phyto-c/Ouma olive repair gel, from the claim and composition, the raw material composition content of oil olive leaf is 10%, of course, the price is also "ceiling" level. Although there are many oil olive products on the market, Ouma still occupies the throne, the main core is that the patent extraction technology of the raw materials of the product itself is from Dr. Ouma, which originally expired this year, but it is said that the patent forgot to renew in 2016, so there is a domestic "oil olive wind".
To get back to the point, Ouma's olive leaf extract raw materials are customized from Hallstar, using BT models, from the test data of raw material manufacturers:
Olive leaf extract has several benefits:
1► The soothing anti-inflammatory effect is not inferior in the face of dexamethasone
On pathway highlights, olive leaves reduce mRNA expression of the inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-1β. Stimulates macrophage activity. On the one hand, it promotes the inflammatory response in the early stage of inflammation, kills bacteria and phagocytosis, on the other hand, inhibits the inflammatory response in the late stage of inflammation, promotes cell proliferation and collagen deposition, thereby improving the redness caused by inflammation, stimulating peeling, inflammatory acne, and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Source: Hallstar EUROL®BT
2► Superior antioxidant properties, using DPPH method as pre-screening, its antioxidant resistance is better than vitamin E, but not as good as vitamin C, so it is more suitable as a preventive player
Source: Hallstar EUROL®BT
Source: References[2]
3► Wide range of antibacterial properties, thanks to this effect, so the effect of the ingredient on acne improvement at a high dosage is very good
Studies have shown that oleuropein and tyrosol were shown to have a positive effect on 5 standard ATCC strains (Haemophilus influenzae strain ATCC9006, Haemophilus mucosa strain ATCC8176, Vibrio cholerae strain ATCC906, B. paratyphoid type AChemicalbookTCC6539, Golden Bead strain ATCC25923) and 44 clinically isolated strains (8 Haemophilus influenzae strains, 6 Haemophilus mucosa strains, 4 Vibrio cholerae strains, 5 penicillin-sensitive strains, 6 penicillin-tolerant strains and 15 Salmonella strains) have inhibitory effects[3].
Source: Hallstar EUROL®BT
4► It has a repairing effect
The highlight of the pathway is that it can promote the upregulation of PPAR, which can promote the production of collagen IV, the main component of the basement membrane, and strengthen the inner barrier of the skin.
Source: References[4]
For the composition of olea olivin composition, it is worth mentioning that it is generally believed that the main active ingredient of olea olive is oleuropein, and the manufacturer's standard titration is also the content of oleuropein, but its immediate soothing anti-inflammatory effect may not come from oleuropein, but from hydroxytyrosol, this ingredient is not in the inci catalog, hydroxytyrosol pharmacological studies have shown antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antithrombotic and other effects, and Hallstar has not disclosed its raw material standards, I think this is why among the many choices, everyone pursues the mystery of homologous manufacturers and the joy of product efficacy [5].
Source: Hallstar EUROL®BT
Let's see Omar's ingredient list, very concise, Hallstar 1% effective oil olive claims to add 10%, compounded with arbutin, taurine and zinc gluconate ingredients, positioning is suitable for acne skin, sensitive redness, oil control needs of people.
Source: Beautiful Practice App
*The ingredients and order of this ingredient list are derived from product filing information.
After reviewing the filing information, this was also confirmed, and the human efficacy report made by Ouma Oil Olive in Sanlihui also showed that the product has the effect of soothing, repairing, removing acne and controlling oil.
Source: FDA imported cosmetics filing
But also very but contradictory, in the compound, 10% of oil olive actually feels particularly uncomfortable, and the purpose of zinc gluconate is to control oil, so the gel texture will be pulled dry after use, there are also sensitive skin cases feedback use will have a feeling of heat is a high concentration of stress reaction, in summary, the product idea is simple, the ingredients are worthwhile, the cost performance is not high, but not suitable for long-term use of the skin.
Source: Brand Tmall detail page
Next, we dismantle the evergreen ingredient Centella Asiatica, this ingredient is counted as a "living fossil" on the anti-inflammatory road, the research application of the ingredient can be queried compared to the oil olive, it can be said that it is much more, almost all the brands on the market have been used, although it is always at the forefront of the filing list, but it seems that it is difficult to become a phenomenal ingredient to achieve the brand.
The main reason is that in the "Catalogue of Names of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" published by the State Food and Drug Administration, the main active ingredients of Centella Asiatica have been used as follows: Madecassoside (glycoside), Madecastic acid, Asiaticaside, Asiatica acid, Centella asiatica root extract, Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract, Centella Asiatica leaf extract and Centella Asiatica extract. With so many Centella Asiatica ingredients and different extraction processes and concentrations, not only is the choice dazzling, but the water is also very deep.
According to the article "Centella Asiatica Active Ingredients and Skin Damage Repair" published by relevant personnel of Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd. at the China Cosmetics Symposium, hundreds of ingredients have been isolated from Centella Asiatica. Among them, the most bioactive is asiatic acid, in addition, asiaticoside, madecastic acid, madecassoside and other components, are also the most important triterpenoid active ingredients, these four monomers make up the total glycoside of asiatica.
Taking centella asiatica total glycosides as an example, the efficacy can be summarized as follows:
1► Anti-inflammatory effect
The bright spots of the pathway can inhibit the production of prostaglandins and inhibit the expression of UVB-induced COX-2 and PAR-2, thereby reducing the inflammatory response caused by ultraviolet rays to the skin; It can significantly reduce the levels of inflammatory cytokines TNF-a and IL-6, and can protect nerve cells from damage caused by inflammation and autophagy induction.
2► Anti-skin inflammatory pigmentation
Madecassoside on the pathway highlights can block ultraviolet-induced inflammation and inhibit UVB-induced expression of COX-2 and PAR-2, thereby inhibiting melanin synthesis and melaninsome metastasis.
In human clinical trials, 23 subjects were treated with a 0.05% madegroside preparation for the forearm after UV irradiation, which significantly reduced the UV-induced melanin index after 8 weeks compared with no treatment.
Figure Effect of madecassoside on dermal melanin index of artificial tanning Cont=blank control group, MA=Madecassoside, TeeCalmin® Centella,[6]
3► Promotes collagen synthesis
Centella asiatica promotes the synthesis of two types of collagen, type I and III, and densifies collagen in the papillary layer of the dermis.
Figure 8d, A: Untreated skin section; B: 1% Centella asiatica extract aqueous solution, TeeCalmin® Centella[7]
4► Promotes wound healing
Cassin and madecassoside can induce type I collagen synthesis in dermis-derived fibroblasts by phosphorylation of Smad 2 and Smad 3, reduce oxidative stress on the wound, and thus facilitate wound healing.
14d, Pathological evaluation of skin tissue after burn wounds, A Vaseline; B asiaticoside; C Hydroxyasiaticoside, TeeCalmin® Centella[8]
Studies have shown that Centella Asiatica can also reduce the expression of interleukin1L-1α, and has a significant inhibitory effect on the formation of carboxymethyl lysine induced by glycinylating agent methylglyoxal, so it can also have a certain anti-aging effect, and in the market application, it is also the most widely used is actually its anti-inflammatory effect.
Because of the many ingredients and products of Centella Asiatica, it is difficult to distinguish, and there is no selection of suitable brand products with Centella Asiatica, so it is used as a representative of Centella Asiatica's Centella Asiatica ointment, although it is a little unfair to use medicine to compare cosmetics, but the active ingredient of this ointment is single, and the analysis test results are not affected by other ingredients, and the people who claim to use the efficacy claim are also very compatible with olive oil, which can be used to improve red acne scars, scar hyperplasia, scleroderma, etc., and the total glycoside content of Centella Asiatica is also 2.5% Around (historically high addition in cosmetic regulations is 4%)
Source: Tencent Pharmacopoeia
Source: Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials (2021 Edition)
The drug insert of FullAsiatic Extract and the Tencent Pharmacopoeia can be learned:
1. Asiaticin cream can improve red acne scars, especially new acne scars accompanied by fibrous tissue damage, enhance the function of the reticuloendothelial system, stimulate capillary regeneration, promote the formation of normal granulation tissue, and accelerate wound repair.
2. Suitable for scars (acne pits), pimples, scleroderma, can reduce the amount of acidic mucopolysaccharides and collagen, regulate the activity state and proliferation cycle of fibroblasts, can inhibit the excessive proliferation of scar fibroblasts, reduce fibrosis, resist disordered scar hyperplasia, can be applied to scar prevention after plastic surgery, and also has a certain effect on pigmented black acne scars
remind
Asiaticin cream is a prescription drug, for the powerful effect but high content of the addition, there are still risks in use, first of all, pregnant women should use with caution, for the skin with wounds may be itchy, irritation.
Analyzing the finished fractions and products, we can find that olea olea and centella asiatica actually have similarities, but the pathways are different. The essence of olive oil lies in the synergy of extraction technology and active ingredients, but the ingredients are easy to change color, skin feel, compatibility is not very ideal, but also limited by the play of engineers, the research of centella asiatica ingredients is more mature, better compatibility, but limited by the origin, extraction site, extraction technology, etc., resulting in the quality of raw materials on the market is uneven, affecting the play of efficacy, the lack of endorsement stories, the dimensionality reduction of pharmaceutical ointments (medicinal asiaticoside ointment is very cheap) also leads to its difficulty in becoming a phenomenal brand ingredient in marketing.
On the topic of who is better, everyone has their own answer in their hearts, I am an engineer I like Centella Asiatica, I am a brand I like oil olives, I am a user I love both, the answer is really different!
Disclaimer: The efficacy of the ingredients and the source of relevant academic papers, scientific research reports and scientific experiments in the text only cite the information of the marked content source, and carry personal subjective judgment, for reference only!
Practical Appendix: Home Skin Remedy Act[9]
If you want to give up chemicals, emulsifiers, fragrances, preservatives, and colors, and advocate affordable, simple and refreshing treatments, try these things:
Bibliography:
1、DO L H D, AZIZI N , MAIBACH H I . Sensitive skin syndrome: an update[J]. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2019, 21(1): 1-9
2、Perugini Pet al. Efficacy of oleuropein against UVB irradiation: preliminary evaluation[J]. International journal of cosmetic science, 2008, 30(2) : 113-20.
3. Ding Chunbang, Li Yangmeihui, Yang Zeshen Wang Buri, Wang Yujie, "Analysis of antioxidant and bacteriostatic activity of olea leaf polysaccharides in vitro" Natural Product Research and Development, 2016.(8)
4、Majewski G P, Singh S, Bojanowski K. Oliveleafderived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models[J]. 2021.
5. LIU Weizhen, ZHANG Xing, CHEN Xinjian, TAN Yuzhi, TAN Yuzhi, Research Progress on Pharmacological Effects of Hydroxytyrosol, Medical and Health Science and Technology. 2012,28(06)
6、Jung E,et al. Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammation.Molecules,2013,18:15724-15736
7、Ref:Maramaldi G,et al. Anti-inflflammaging and antiglycation activity of a novel botanical ingredient from african biodiversity (Centevita™). Clinical, Cosmetic andInvestigational Dermatology,2014,7:1-9
8、HOU Q,et al. Burn wound healing properties of asiaticoside and madecassoside. Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine,2016,12:1269-1274
9. [de] Yael Adler, [de] Katja Spitzer, Liu Liyi, Dong Yuxi, The Secret of the Skin Health - Skin Management People's Oriental Publishing and Media