Sushi is also known as "bass", and the Erya Shiki says: Meat is called soup, fish is called bass. Where there is fish, there is sushi, and the ingredients are either raw, cooked, or pickled. ”
Restaurant Name: Jiro Sushiro Yabashi 【Three Michelin-starred Restaurant】
Main Kitchen: Jiro Ono
Storefront: Ginza, Tokyo, near the subway, 10 seats, is a basement store, no separate toilets.
A la carte: No menus, side dishes and drinks
Price: From 30,000 yen
Note: Seat reservation is required at least one month in advance, and the meal time is 30 minutes
Jiro Ono enjoys the status of a national treasure in Japan.
Both Shinzo Abe and U.S. President Barack Obama come to his restaurant to eat.
Born in 1925, he is now ninety-three years old.
Most people at this age, square dance can not dance it.
Can you imagine that his requirements for his work are to always stand and not sit when working?
He spent more than fifty-eight years of working time training his skills day in and day out.
I poured my life into sushi.
Documentary filmmaker David Jabo directed a "Sushi God" with him as the protagonist, which shows the life of the "sushi god".
The God of Sushi
<Jiro Dreams of Sushi>
I deeply feel that the difference between the master and ordinary people is too obvious.
I want to summarize it in three words:
"Moderation, restraint, precision."
- Temperance is the control of life.
Restraint is the control of desire.
-- Precision is the control of the work.
* Tetsuya Hayaot's description and expression of Jiro Ono in "Washoku Two Gods: The Final Engagement"
Finally understanding what "high and widowed, high and cold", in another documentary "Washiko: The Final Engagement", it tells the precious feelings of the legendary priest Tetsuya Otome (70 years old) and Ono Jiro (93 years old) who built the Japanese tempura culture to appreciate each other, compete with each other, meet opponents, and cherish heroes.
Today's main introduction is that Ono Jiro has spent his life refining these extreme delicacies.
In his restaurant,
You don't need to dwell on something.
Just taste all that Jiro Ono has prepared for you,
Enough is enough.
The weather was just right
Let's go try Jiro Ono's sushi together!
【First Movement】
【Prelude】
First consistent: Makogarei / Marbled Sole
*Makoku flounder: The king of the white meat fish in the summer of Edo-mae, the flounder produced by Tokiwa in Fukushima Prefecture, Ōbaya in Ibaraki Prefecture, and sunrise in Oita Prefecture is the best product.
True flounder, the taste is fresh and elegant, the taste is full of elasticity. With the real flounder as the introduction, like a prelude to gradually slowing down, it is best to arouse appetite.
Second series: Squid SUMI-IKA / Squid
*Flower branch (ink squid): Produced in Nagasaki, the surface is pure and crystal clear. The taste is sweet, just the right crispness and elasticity, and it highlights the acidity of vinegar rice.
【Interlude】
Third Series: SHIMA-AJI/Striped Mackerel
*Mushroom: It is found in warm seas all over the world, and the late summer and early autumn of each year is the most delicious season for the trevally, when it is fat and tender.
At this time, the desire of the taste buds has been lifted, and the fat and fat sauce has been handled just right, and there is no fat feeling in the mouth, but it continues the freshness of the first two consecutive.
【Climax】
The "Tuna Trilogy" is the highlight of all high-end Japanese food stores, what is the magic of tuna, which can be renovated by major Japanese food stores every time, and diners can't get tired of eating?
After World War II, the Japanese changed their living habits and eating habits, from preferring lean meat to falling in love with greasy food, and the black tuna with a high fat content was eaten raw and delicious, which just met the needs of this aspect.
The fat, aroma and taste of each part of the black tuna are different, so there are three levels, from low to high, namely: naked, mid-abdomen, and large abdomen.
Fourth series: Naked AKAMI / Lean Tuna
* Naked: Taken from the back of the tuna, it is almost free of fat (the English word lean means lean), and the flesh is firm and chewy.
Fifth series: mid-abdomen CHUTORO / Medium Tuna
*Mid-abdomen: Taken from the tuna tail belly, the taste is delicate, and the taste is more intense than that of the naked body.
Sixth series: Big Belly O-TORO / Fatty Tuna
*Belly: Taken from the front belly of the tuna, the taste rises with the proportion of fat. Eat here, close your eyes and enjoy, the previous few consecutive sweet and dull is to set off the ultimate enjoyment of the lips and teeth at this moment.
【Fallback】
Seventh: Small muscle KOHADA/Gizzard Shad
* Small muscles: It belongs to a kind of bright skin fish, which is a fish that is very easy to stink and rot, and the vinegar stain method can exert its unique taste. Mr. OnoJiro's small muscle sushi, the flesh is firm, the entrance is sour, but the aftertaste is sweet, and there is a special aroma without a trace of fishy smell.
Mr. Ono also said that this ingredient requires a lot of effort and is very difficult, but this is his favorite sushi dish.
Eighth slam: Steamed abalone AWABI / Abalone
* Steamed abalone: Abalone-like sushi restaurants will use the sake steaming method to carefully cook for three or four hours, at this time, the color of the abalone will become transparent, but also bring out the real taste of abalone, diners can taste the soft taste and delicate aroma.
Ninth Slam: Bamboo Shooter AJI / Horse Mackerel
*Bamboo basket: Marinated fish with raw fish instead of salt and vinegar can retain its delicate sweetness and aroma. Jiro's bamboo basket uses this method, using raw fish directly, without green onion and ginger on the sushi, and hiding the ginger slices containing water between the raw fish and vinegar rice. The fat distribution is just right, fresh and sweet and rich.
Tenth consecutive: AKAGAI / Red Ark Shell Clam
* Red shellfish: sweet and tender, beautiful and delicate appearance, is the queen of shellfish. In order to exert its original flavor, the shelled red shell is selected, and it is used directly after shelling, if it is washed with vinegar, it will destroy the rare smell of seawater. Jiro's red shellfish treatment should be this method, the taste is crisp and refreshing, and the aftertaste has a faint smell of seawater.
【Second Movement】
【Opening】
Eleventh consistent: bonito KATSUO / Bonito
* Bonito: After straw roasting, the bonito absorbs the strong aroma of straw, the fat between the skin and flesh, the outside is crisp, and the inner meat is still delicate.
Twelfth series: Shrimp shrimp SHAKO / Mantis Shrimp
* Shrimp maggots: In fact, it is what we usually call pippi shrimp, and the shrimp and maggots produced in Koshiba in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan are the most delicious. During the spawning period, the extra large shrimp mackerel that holds eggs will be seasoned to exert its umami taste and become soft in taste. Shrimp and moths are dipped in a "coastal juice" made of soy sauce, sugar and mirin to make it taste good.
Thirteenth consecutive: Bird tail clam TORIGAI / Japanese Cockle
* Birdtail Clams: Fresh Japanese birdtail clams are still black and shiny colors even if cooked, which is naturally very different from the wooden box products on the market. When sushi restaurants buy goods, they always use fresh wooden box containers, because they are only slightly cooked in boiling water and retained in an undercooked state, so that the meat is soft and sweet.
Jiro's birdtail clams are thick and compact in flesh, and after a little boiling water, they are kneaded into sushi, and the inside is still tender, and you can feel a sweetness after entering.
Fourteenth consecutive: Shrimp KURUMA-EBI / Japanese Tiger Prawn
*Shrimp: Erlang uses wild shrimp of about 20cm, which is boiled and covered with a towel and covered with cold water to cool down to the human body temperature, at this time the shrimp is the most delicious.
Fifteenth Consecutive: Needlefish SAYORI / Japanese Needle-Fish
* Needle fish: The production season of needle fish is in the spring and autumn, the size of the water needle in autumn is smaller than that of spring, the translucent fish body shines with silver light, and the needle fish of Erlang is directly kneaded from raw fish, and when chewed, a refreshing and elegant taste spreads out in the mouth.
Sixteenth consecutive: Wen Clam HAMAGURI / Hard(Shell) Clam
*Clams: Abundant in Tokyo Bay, it can be eaten in Japan from autumn to the spawning period of the clams, and is also used as a soup at many sushi restaurants. Shellfish cooked for too long can lead to dry meat, so after a quick searing, use "coastal juice" to make it taste. The preparation method is the same as that of shrimp and clams before. The taste is sweet and warm, gentle and timeless.
Seventeenth series: Sea urchin UNI / Sea Urchin
* Sea Urchin: "Sea Urchin Warship" is one of the signatures of Jiro Sukiyahashi. Jiro carefully bakes the seaweed in a carbon oven to make the seaweed crisp and dry, while the sea urchin is used more to achieve the perfect balance with the seaweed, and the mouth can enjoy the slow mellow taste and seaweed aroma.
【Closing】
Eighteenth consecutive: Small column KOBASHIRA / Round Clams
*Small pillar: Sea urchin is followed by a crisp and tender Chinese macular clam shell (small pillar). Gradually relax and finish.
Nineteenth slam: Salmon roe IKURA / Salmon Roe
*Salmon roe: Salmon spawning season is from September to October every year, and Ono Jiro will buy a large number of them and carefully clean them at this time. Then, after marinating with soy sauce, sake, etc., and putting it in a freezer at -60 degrees Celsius, after a period of time, it is occasionally refrigerated in the refrigerator to thaw, and the freshness of salmon roe can be maintained in the state of freshness.
This is the exclusive freezing and thawing technology of Jiro Sumiyabashi, which Ono spent two years developing. This consistent warship is like an embellishment on a dessert, making the whole person relaxed and happy.
Twentieth consecutive: Star Eel ANAGO / Saltwater Eel
*Star Eel: Once again, it is one of the signature dishes of Jiro Sugiyabashi. Use star eels from Tokyo Wannojima, cut them into large pots with "Hama juice" and simmer. The cooked star eels are so soft that they need to be carefully scooped up and arranged on a baking sheet with a rice spoon. The star eel sushi kneaded at room temperature is like wrapped in vinegar rice, which melts in the mouth.
Erlang's star eel, soft and warm, as the final finish of the 20 consecutive, the afterglow winds around the beam, and the geese pass without a trace.
【Finale】
Tamago/Egg
*This special jade is specially modified by Jiro Sumiyahashi, Jiro uses a large amount of sand shrimp to beat into the egg mixture, and the tamagotchi roasted in an hour is moist and delicate, and you can eat a slightly sweet and fluffy taste.
瓠干 KANPYO / Dried Gourd Roll
* Dried: It takes two days to prepare the ingredients, and although it is simple, you can see the strength of the sushi restaurant. Dried gourd is actually dried gourd, because it is simple, so it shows a lot of effort on it, after making a fine roll, the aroma of roasted seaweed, with the sweetness of the dried gourd and the sour taste of vinegar rice, this sushi taste bud tour can be regarded as a complete end.
Please wipe the saliva on the screen first...
Touch your shriveled purse again...
In my sadness, I still know that I often see such a question:
As a "professional" who pursues sushi as a lifelong pursuit
Even the master who cares about the temperature and dryness of his hands is afraid of affecting the fluency of the sushi
The weight of the two words "worker",
Really very deep and serious.
Compared with
In a society of national fast food,
Our minds are particularly barren.
#老爷子说: "93 years old,
I want to make sushi with these hands until I'm 100 years old. ”
The picture in this article comes from the network
The copyright belongs to the author
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