Chaumet's "plant-themed" jewelry exhibition in Paris is not over, Van Cleef & Arpels held in Shanghai "Collection of The Best Retrospective Exhibition" kicked off, think carefully about almost every jewelry veteran is actively organizing exhibitions, every time Ba Zhu Jie sees these jewelry works spanning a hundred years, she can't help but admire the whimsy and top craftsmanship of the people at that time, and don't hide from you, every piece is good to want!
"Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love" Collection Retrospective The ballerina design on display
Fashion Icons, from pop diva Billie Eilish to fashion blogger Emma Chamberlain, have also worn vintage jewelry or direct antique jewelry bodices. Why do they also favor these "historical" jewelry that are updated every day? What is the secret that vintage jewelry has been in vogue for a hundred years and is still being robbed?
Billie Eilish wears Fred Leighton antique jewelry
Emma Chamberlain wears antique Cartier jewelry
Ancestral craftsmanship comes with a "retro" temperament
Buccellati has also selected antique jewelry from his collection this year to launch the best collection, which has a feeling of surprise and reasonableness. Unexpectedly, Paris Couture Week is when jewelry brands are gathering to issue the latest high pearls, everyone is engaged in innovation, but his family has chosen to look back at the past in the opposite way. There is no sense of violation because the brand has always given people the feeling of insisting on "retro style", and when they see his family's works, the first word is classical beauty, and the second word is the ultimate metalwork.
"Rigato" carving technique
In fact, this is easy to understand, because when the goldsmith Mario Buccellati founded the brand in Milan in 1919, it was inspired by the medieval and Renaissance styles, and the family has been firmly committed to this theme for 4 generations, which can be said to have a distinct personality in the jewelry brand. But the reason why they can insist on it so much, dare to insist on it, is because the "unique skills" have reached the pinnacle, and the inheritance is not broken, and each generation has innovated.
The founder of Buccellati, Mario Buccellati, and his wife Maria
Buccellati is currently part of the Richemont Group but has always been managed by the family, especially the core creative department. From Mario Buccellati's son Gianmaria to his grandson Andrea, more than a century of heritage, each generation has left its mark on the company. Today, Mario's great-granddaughter Lucrezia Buccellati serves as the brand's creative director.
Lucrezia Buccellati wears a crown designed by Mario Buccellati on her wedding day
Therefore, it is obvious that people do "vintage jewelry" can be said to be hand-to-hand, because the brand style is in the same vein, whether it is technology and design, it maintains unity, and the ancestral handicraft is unique in the industry, and the recognition is super high. And the most cattle is that each generation has improved, and the leaders of each generation can accurately grasp the representative style of the times, and integrate it with the inheritance of handicrafts, so that the brand style always has a strong retro style.
Buccellati The bracelet designed by Mario Buccellati, circa 1930, uses the exclusive "Enchaining" technique
This year's Vintage Collection is the best example, viewing these antique jewelry can allow the audience to invisibly travel through time and space, get to the characteristic style of each era of jewelry, and clearly feel that Buccellati craftsmanship can be skillfully combined with the style of the time, while maintaining its own distinctive brand style.
Buccellati Buccellati "Non ti scordar di me" brooch Design by Mario Buccellati, circa 1940s
For example, several cocktail rings were introduced this time, which was popular in the 1950s and 1980s, and was designed to make the uniquely shaped gemstone shine more brightly. Gianmaria Buccellati captured the popularity of the times and brought colorful gemstones into the brand.
Buccellati Buccellati "Profondo Blu" cocktail ring designed by Gianmaria Buccellati, 1950s
The "Profondo Blu" cocktail ring of the 1950s had a strong classical beauty, but in the rebellious, sporty and bold 60s, the "Laguna" cocktail ring showed a completely different look, with a strong contrast between gold and silver, holding up bright peridot, making people feel the rhythm and flamboyant design style. But it also uses Buchelati's exclusive "Modellato" and "Rigato" engraving techniques, which make the ring show more delicate changes.
Buccellati Buccellati 'Laguna' cocktail ring designed by Gianmaria Buccellati, 1960s
Gianmaria Buccellati is the inheritor of rigato technology to the pinnacle. In the 1980s, he created the label's iconic Macri, a technique that allows the metal to mimic the delicate satin effect perfectly.
Buccellati Bucholati Macri series
Gianmaria's son, Andrea, whose style is more modern than his father's, is influenced by the Memphis design movement that prevailed in the 1980s and is very good at using geometric figures and smooth lines, such as this "Armonia Geometrica" ring designed in 1988, where square and round gemstones of different colors make up a strong geometric contrast, but Againn still uses the family's "Modellato" carving technique in the ring to ensure that one can recognize at a glance that this is jewelry from Buccellati.
Buccellati Buccellati "Armonia Geometrica" ring Design by Andrea Buccellati circa 1988
Thanks to Andrea Buccellati's geometric style, another of the brand's classic collections, Étoilée, is born: four gold forged chains intertwine to form a spatial interaction in which small lilies set with diamonds bloom.
Buccellati Buchratti Étoilée bracelet
In 2013, when the fourth generation of the family, Lucrezia, who joined the brand in 2013, teamed up with her father to design the Romanza collection, combining Buccellati's signature "Tulle", "Lace" and "Rigato" craftsmanship to create the wedding jewelry collection that best matches the bride's romantic wedding dress. Lucrezia Buccellati defines her goal as "to create simplicity out of the complexity of Buccellati's technology."
Buccellati Bucholati Romanza bracelets, earrings
Buccellati Buchratti Romanza engagement rings are engraved with Rigato
After she became the brand's first female creative director, she brought the advantages of a female perspective into the design, after all, she has worn jewelry since she was a child, and she can fully understand the needs of customers. In 2019, also the 100th anniversary of the brand's creation, she designed the "funky" Opera Limited Edition collection and launched a new collection in conjunction with Giambattista Valli, a "dress professional", in which the "Tulle" craft was modernized, she said: "I have been working hard to make the pattern more irregular and varied, and this new transformation is a very big challenge for our craftsmen. ”
Buccellati Buccellati Limited Edition Opera Series Pendants From left to right: marble, zebra, leopard print design
Buccellati Buccellati and Giambattista Valli unveiled the new collection at Paris Couture Week
So although Buccellati has always had a strong "retro" Style, it still makes the star hipster flock to it, from Rihanna to Kwon Ji-yong likes to use his jewelry concave shape, dazzling taste, after all, after the baptism of time, the classic beauty, who does not love it?
Rihanna wears a Buccellati watch and bracelet
Kwon Ji-yong wears a Buccellati ring
The master sits on classic design and never leaves behind
Tiffany & Co. unveiled Jean Schlumberger's classics this year's Blue Book collection, and it's no surprise that the jewelry guru is almost never absent. Jewelry collectors will always pay for him, and such vintage-style jewelry is really a guarantee of quality, even if it is still fashionable in 200 years.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2022 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Jean Schlumberger Flower with Leaf Necklace
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2021 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Jean Schlumberger Thistle necklace
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2020 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Jean Schlumberger leaf necklace
Jean Schlumberger Jasmine“Breath of Spring”项链 1969 年
Jean Schlumberger has an unshakable mastership in the jewelry world, as his style itself is a singular blend of classics and avant-gardes. The jeweler once said, "It's complicated, I hate modern jewelry, but I can't tell anyone I make antique jewelry!" In fact, he said that "antique jewelry" should be a kind of retro, I don't know if you have found that every retro movement is almost a return to nature, for example, the Renaissance in the 16th century, for example, the Art Nouveau movement in the early 20th century. By "modern jewelry," he might mean stiff lines and machine-made under the impact of industrial winds.
Jean Schlumberger
Jean Schlumberger explains his design style: "I tried to make everything look like it was growing, uneven, natural, and I wanted to capture the irregularities of the universe. To this end, he never selects gemstones based on monetary value, is very happy to use unconventional jewelry materials, and even looks for original materials from animals and plants. He said: "If you only look at the price to choose the material, you may as well pin the check directly to the collar." ”
Necklace designed by Jean Schlumberger
So you see, his design concept in the middle of the last century is very avant-garde even now, the movement of life, the irregularity of the universe, the diversity of materials, the archive has such a "treasure", Tiffany can always stand on the trend!
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2021 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Jean Schlumberger Morning Glory necklace
Tiffany and Jean Schlumberger can be said to be a model of mutual achievement, Jean Schlumberger came to the United States from France after World War II to develop, although he was famous in the circle, but the independent jewelry salon opened with partner Nicolas Bongard was just starting out, you know, Jean Schlumberger crossed from the fashion circle to the jewelry circle, wanted to quickly gain a foothold in the high pearl industry, there was still some shortage of resources, but at that time, He met the third Bó Lè in his life (the first two being the well-known Elsa Schiaparelli and Diana Vreeland) – Walter Hoving, Tiffany's then-chairman.
Jean Schlumberger designed a brooch for Diana Vreeland
Walter Hoving is not a rich second generation, his father is a doctor, his mother is an opera singer, he worked all the way to the executive, and finally became the boss. He acquired Tiffany & Co. in 1955. The controlling stake, at the time the company's annual performance was about $7 million, and under his management, by 1980, the company's sales had grown to $100 million.
Walter Hoving
He excelled in marketing and sales, but he deliberately studied art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art for four years to elevate his art standing, so when he discovered Jean Schlumberger, he was immediately invited to become a designer at Tiffany and gave him full creative freedom. This "freedom" includes gem freedom, creative freedom, and authorship freedom.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Jean Schlumberger twice designed Tiffany's "rhubarb diamond"
Yes, Tiffany & Co. provided him with a large supply of precious gemstones and materials, and he was the first jewelry designer at Tiffany & Co. to sign his name on his work. He has his own studio and salon in the loft of Tiffany's flagship store on Fifth Avenue, and even a private elevator, and Walter Hoving said to him, "Design the jewelry you think is the most beautiful, don't worry about selling, that's my job." ”
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Jean Schlumberger designs the floral and leaf bracelet Peggy Rockefeller collection
This may be the work that any designer wants to have, unlimited freedom and escort, and of course, Jean Schlumberger has also fully proved his "Maxima" "human design" with his talented jewelry works. Eventually, Jean Schlumberger was promoted to vice president at Tiffany & Co. ( Tiffany ) , a rare occurrence in the jewelry industry.
Flower Pot Jean Schlumberger designs gold, amethyst, emerald, black garnet ore diamonds, pottery pots for Bunny Mellon, 1960
Jean Schlumberger really won the recognition of the industry for his strength, and it was also with those elegant and bold, vibrant jewelry works that won the favor of the star Icon of the time. His client list ranges from socialites such as Babe Paley, Bunny Mellon and Peggy Rockefeller to Hollywood stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn to royal aristocrats such as the Duchess of Kent and the Duchess of Windsor.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Fleur de Mer Brooch Jean Schlumberger designs diamonds, sapphires
Jean Schlumberger's own style is retro, he likes to draw inspiration from nature, almost all of his masterpieces are based on plants, animals and other creatures. His craftsmanship is also vintage, and he applies the 19th-century Paillonné enamel technique to jewelry designs, matching his eclectic and vivid color treasures to produce a more vivid color matching effect.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Jean Schlumberger designs the Croisillon bracelet
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Jean Schlumberger designs a multi-gem gold bracelet circa 1950
But his works are also avant-garde and bold, those gorgeous color schemes, fantastic shapes, dynamic lines, a wide selection of materials, as well as the gold tendrils, ropes and woven elements of his signature Style are unprecedented at the time, and of course, the geometric shapes of the "gold nails" on the gorgeous enamel, so that people can identify his work at a glance.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Sea Shells bracelet
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Parrot brooch
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Seahorse brooch
Jean Schlumberger's designs transcend time, and his work has been the most sought-after presence at auction houses, when the "Iguana Night" dolphin brooch he designed for Elizabeth Taylor sold for $1,202,500 at Christie's in 2001. Another socialite, Jean Tailer, then customized the brooch again with Tiffany. Yes, Tiffany & Co. accepted customization, and Jean Tailer picked up a number of orders from Jean Schlumberger's designs.
This is the "Iguana Night" dolphin brooch that Jean Tailer asked Tiffany to reproduce for her
So you can see why Tiffany's high pearls can see Jean Schlumberger's designs almost every year, because they have endured and stood the test of time, and a new generation of jewelry collectors still have a "special love" for him
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2022 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Schlumberger Flower and Leaf Necklace
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2022 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Schlumberger Star Flower earrings
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany&E 2022 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Schlumberger Thirteen Leaves brooch
Of course, Tiffany's "master reserve" is not only Jean Schlumberger, they also have Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and this year their Blue Book Collection even reproduced the orchid brooch that G. Paulding Farnham created for Tiffany's display at the 1889 Paris World's Fair.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany G. Paulding Farnham Orchid Brooch 1889
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. 2022 Blue Book Fine Jewelry Collection Orchid Brooch
Unique jewelry can transcend time
How does Jimei like a jewelry designer to "help" him? Could it be trying to buy, buy, buy? Or snap your head on Amway to a friend? There is a jewelry circle "true love fan" for their idol to call the way you really can't disagree, he is determined to let his favorite jewelry designer beyond the time forever popular Ward Landrigan.
Ward Landrigan
Ward Landrigan, a jeweler, has always admired Verdura and Suzanne Belperron, two of the most personal jewelers of the last century, but the names of the two designers have faded into retirement, and their works have only occasionally appeared in auction houses. But he believes that the work of these two designers is art and should not be lost, so he spent a lot of energy collecting their design manuscripts and continuing the two designer brands, so that modern people also have the opportunity to recognize, collect and wear these "vintage" jewelry that were popular in the last century.
Verdura New York store
Ward Landrigan, who was the head of the jewelry department at Sotheby's auction house before the acquisition of Verdura, was very senior, the person who sold the famous Krupp diamond diamonds to the Elizabeths at that time, it was Drop, who personally took the diamonds to the hotel where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor were staying at the time, and completed the transaction.
Elizabeth Taylor wears a Krupp diamond ring
As a result, Ward Landrigan has an extremely high appreciation for jewelry, and it is not surprising that he chose to acquire Verdura. Fulco di Verdura is a designer who is no stranger to his friends, and he also chose to come to the United States after a successful collaboration with Coco Chanel in Paris in the 1920s. Founded in 1939 with the support of musician Cole Porter and New York "Old Money" representative Vincent Astor, he quickly won the favor of Hollywood and socialites with his unique style.
Joan Fontaine wears verdura design Wing brooches
Dorothy Paley wears Verdura Design Target earrings
At the time, Verdura wasn't known for its retro style, he was following the trend, or leading the way. He would work with the surrealist master Dalí on jewelry, would create jewelry based on Cole Porter's witty and lively songs, and although he and Jean Schlumberger had almost the same clientele, their styles were very different.
Diana Vreeland wears Verdura's Theodora and Ravenna brooches
Cole Porter's wife Linda wears verdura design Stardust necklace in 1948
In 1973 Verdura sold the firm to partner Joseph Alfano, including nearly 10,000 sketch design manuscripts. In 1985, Ward Landrigan got it. He once said in an interview: "I have always admired Verdura's style very much, because if you own his designs, you are not showing off your property status, but showing off jewelry taste." ”
In 1997, Diana wore a Verdura replica double crescent bracelet
Ward Landrigan had just left Sotheby's and had to find a bank loan to buy Verdura, and interestingly, the banker who lent him money was also a "fan" of Verdura, and he understood the potential value of the name and design, so he even lent him more than Ward Landrigan expected.
Manuscript of the feather ear clip designed by Verdura earlier
Verdura's feather ear clips according to the draft design
It was very difficult to start verdura because the brand has been dormant for many years, but even in the most difficult times, there are still some Verdura "loyal fans" to place orders, and this love is even passed from the previous generation to the next. So Ward Landrigan decided he was right, using his accumulated media and jewelry collector resources, and slowly, after 8 years, Verdura was back on track.
Minnie Astor wears the Verdura Constellation bracelet in 1948
Now, Ward Landrigan's son, Nico, has taken over the company and brought the vision of a young man. He soon discovered that the collectors of Verdura designs were not only "old money" families, but more young women were joining in, and Verdura design was not avant-garde art for them, but retro gorgeous. Verdura's Byzantine Cuff bracelet, and the Lily bracelet designed for Hollywood star Marlene Dietrich, are highly sought after by these independent women.
Marlene Dietrich wears the Verdura Lily bracelet
Verdura Lily bracelets are still popular today
Yes, Verdura now has Hollywood star fans, with Gwyneth Paltrow, Sophia Coppola, and Sophie Hunter being his fans.
Gwyneth Paltrow wears a Verdura Toggle necklace
Sophia Coppola wears the Verdura Maltese Cross Cuff bracelet
Sophie Hunter wears Verdura Briolette earrings
In 1987, Ward Landrigan attended the Duchess of Windsor Jewelry Auction, originally on a trip to Verdura Jewelry, but accidentally found Suzanne Belperron's jewelry, the Duchess collected 16 works by the outstanding female designer, but because the designer never signed the work, it was mistaken at auction. But with this auction, the long-dormant Suzanne Belperron has once again "turned red", and the unique designer has once again impressed jewelry collectors of another era with his works, which has deeply touched Ward Landrigan and strengthened the belief that unique style can transcend time.
The Duchess of Windsor wears the Suzanne Belperron Couronne bracelet
Ward Landrigan began consciously gathering information about Suzanne Belperron. At Basel in 1989, a jeweler friend who knew he liked Belperron came to him and told him that he had the original drawings of Belperron, which was very unexpected news, because it was believed that all the designs had been destroyed.
However, Ward, who had just taken over Verdura at the time, did not have the financial resources and energy to do so, but made a deal with a friend, and they sold selected Belperron jewelry through Verdura to see if the market could accept it. Finally, in 1999 Ward Landrigan acquired more than 9,300 gouache designs from Suzanne Belperron.
Suzanne Belperron gouache design
Jewelry completed according to the design draft
Suzanne Belperron once declared, "My style is my signature," which shows the uniqueness of her style. She is good at using translucent materials, such as chalcedony, crystal and other niche gemstones, and likes to use the whole gemstone carving, her works are very atmospheric, do not pursue the brilliance of jewelry, showing the power and line beauty in sculpture. Reproducing her work according to the design draft she left behind was not an easy task, and Ward Landrigan spent a lot of time and effort preparing for this "retro" operation.
Maison Belperron's New York store
Finally, in 2015, 41 years after Suzanne Belperron retired, Belperron reopened on Fifth Avenue in New York. The work of Suzanne Belperron was officially brought back to the public eye. These "vintage jewels" make you feel the innovative spirit of the jewelry masters of the last century, and at the same time you can enjoy a handful of pleasures that were only customized by private customers at that time ~ the same jewelry with the Duchess of Windsor is at your fingertips
Suzanne Belperron's bauilled jewelry set from the Duchess of Windsor's collection
Suzanne Belperron's modern replica of the brooch crystal, moonstone, diamond
Both Belperron and Verdura are masters of jewelry design with very unique styles, and their work has influenced many designers. Ward Landrigan believes that turning their designs from drafts to jewelry is actually bringing their art to life, and this "vintage jewelry" will continue to perpetuate the beauty of these arts because their charm transcends the limits of time.
Suzanne Belperron "Vintage Jewelry"
Suzanne Belperron "Vintage Jewelry"
"In 2013 I met two customers in their 80s at Verdura's New York store, one of whom was an old customer of ours, and I've known her since she was 22 years old, and she brought friends to admire the beautiful jewelry, and maybe they wouldn't buy it, but I was still very happy because sharing beauty is such a wonderful thing. ”
Verdura Maltese Cross series bracelets
Verdura "Vintage Jewelry"
The charm of vintage jewelry may lie in the fact that classics can always transcend time, and their beauty can be appreciated by every generation. When you look back at history, you will find that jewelry is one of the oldest cultural relics, it records the aesthetic changes of human beings, and some classic designs can become beautiful that cannot be forgotten, repeated again and again. Therefore, "popularity is a cycle of rings" will appear, because it is worthy of continuous recall, appreciation, wearing and collection by future generations.
-END-
Original content from Bazaar Jewelry Media
Unauthorized reproduction is prohibited
If you need to reprint, please contact us to obtain copyright