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A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

author:Bald Li Feng

On June 28, Bangor County arrived in Baling Township

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Renqing is a Tibetan and 38 years old. In his prime, he likes to smoke and drink. During this trip, I didn't drink alcohol. Probably because I have not been accustomed to the high altitude here, have not been interested in drinking, and cannot be with Renqing. I once told him about drinking. Here, drunk driving should be OK, because there are no police, no traffic police, and no cameras. In the Republic of Macedonia, people drink and drive as if no one cares.

Renqing said yes, but he was used to not drinking and driving. In the past, it was drunk driving, and at that time there were no laws and regulations prohibiting drunk driving. I asked Renqing if he had graduated from junior high school or high school, and he said he was only in the third grade of elementary school. Because at that time, the tuition fee was too expensive, and it cost 300 yuan. His father's salary is only 300. So he dropped out of school early and helped out at home. But now his daughter (fifth grade) doesn't want money to go to school. Renqing hopes that his daughter will be admitted to the civil service in the future. Renqing said he could drive and speak Mandarin, so he could make a living, which was not a big problem. After all, Lhasa is a tourist city, and the prospects are promising. I think Lhasa's tomorrow will get better and better. Since I first came to Lhasa in the summer of 2009, to this day, Lhasa has changed dramatically. The urban area alone has expanded at least threefold. Countless houses have been built, and they are still being built to the death. How many times has the number of hotels, large and small, multiplied? Of course, the population has also expanded. At present, Lhasa has also eaten the two surrounding counties and become her two districts. Lhasa is getting more and more beautiful, green, wetland park (Laru Wetland Park). But the dust in Lhasa is also terrible, one is dry, the other is construction.

Renqing said, we are going too fast, and we will arrive at Baling Township in a moment. Probably because I was the only one (tourist) member of the team. I asked Renqing, how many times have you taken this line? Renqing said more than 10 times. Did I say have you ever brought a team member before? Like taking me alone today? He said no. This is the first time. So yeah, he may be a little uncomfortable.

When I was about to reach Baling Township, on a grassy field, there was a group of men and women who were woollen. They didn't use scissors, they used rakes. The goats were rakeed wool, probably in pain, and howled. But in the season, the wool will fall off on its own. It was the first time I had seen such a scene and I was curious. It turns out that the Tibetans are woollen in this way.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Renqing said that Baling Township is a rich township in Shuanghu County, because there is a lake here called Qixiangcuo. There are brine worms in its xiangcuo, and the export makes money, with an annual income of about 20 million.

There is a hot spring in Baling Township, which was once famous. Renqing took me there, halfway up the mountainside. It's really off the beaten track. Except for Renqing and me, I never saw any human beings again. There are crows nesting in the neighborhood, and yellow ducks playing along the water flow of the hot springs.

I soaked in the hot spring for ten minutes, the smell of sulfur is very strong, the water is slippery, real hot spring. But the water temperature is low, only about 35-36 degrees. At high altitudes, such temperatures are dangerous. I quickly put on my clothes, still cold, coughed.

The next morning Renqing gave me cold medicine. Ask me if I have pulmonary edema? I don't know. Renqing may mean, should we continue to move forward, or return to Lhasa immediately? Just he's embarrassed to say it? But I obviously won't give up easily. I said no. Keep moving. After all, there are still many wild animals waiting for me. Pulmonary edema is terrible and can even be life-threatening. Moving forward means that there are more medical conditions, more distant from human society, and more into no man's land.

Accommodation in Baling Township is like this. Between the two rows of bungalows is a glass sun room, which uses the heat of the plateau light and collects it during the day, and the temperature in the sun room during the day is about 25-30 degrees, and the temperature outside is at most more than a dozen degrees. Heat dissipation in the sun room is transmitted to every room. The room was warm. But there was a water and power outage that night. There was no tap water. But provide a little water, you can wash your hands and face. The water came from the well. Anyway, I'm tired and don't want to do anything, and it's too much trouble to take off my socks. Lack of oxygen, do not dare to move. At such altitude, holding a heavy SLR camera, 150-600MM lens, that is a tired ah! Taking pictures is painful and out of breath. But the animals here are extraordinary, and I'm here for them. No matter how hard and tired you are, you have to do it! Clap and clap too.

The toilet is a dry toilet, outside the accommodation, about 100 meters away. I was free to go to the bathroom because I ate too little, and I was lazy and went up a step.

Unexpectedly, happiness came so quickly. Today I met a Tibetan wild donkey, a Tibetan antelope, and a lynx.

The discovery of the lynx is completely Renqing's eyesight. Renqing himself is like a wild animal. His eyesight is excellent, and without Renqing's vision, I reckon I would have missed a lot of wildlife. Reading less also has advantages and disadvantages. For example, your wild human spirituality is easy to preserve, rather than being destroyed by the books of all evil. Of course, it depends on how you read books, but most people are easily destroyed by books.

Renqing reminded me that there was a snow leopard in front of me on the left. yes! Really! I was instantly excited. He said did you see that black spot? I said it wasn't like a snow leopard. Will snow leopards come up to the prairie? I don't know. He said that the snow leopard was squatting and quietly following the Tibetan antelope. I crept closer to the animal, and it must have known that I was getting closer, but it didn't move, didn't run away, and I got closer and closer. A little scared. What if it attacks me? Hurriedly took a few photos and hurried away. Later, after discussing with the driver, I realized that it was a lynx! A cat's face. But whose persecution was it that the Tibetan antelope fled in a panic? Is it another wild animal? Neither Renqing nor I saw it.

On July 25, 2020, the "Brine Worm Egg Deep Processing Plant" of Purogangri Biotechnology Company in Shuanghu County, Tibet was completed and put into operation in Nagqu City, Tibet. The plant was built with the assistance of China National Petroleum Corporation, with Ocean University of China as the main technical support unit. The completion and operation of the plant will effectively promote the upgrading of the brine insect industry, which is of great significance to the precise poverty alleviation and long-term development of Shuanghu, and also has positive demonstration significance for poverty alleviation in contiguous poor areas.

Halogen worms are small planktonic crustaceans that love high salt, and are high-quality bait organisms for aquatic animals such as fish and shrimp, and their dormant eggs are expensive. China's halogen insect resources are mainly distributed in coastal salt pans and inland salt lakes, of which Nagqu Shuanghu County Baling Township of its incense bug is one of the main production areas of Brine worm eggs in China, its xiang wrong halogen worm eggs have high hatching rate, easy shell separation, rich nutrition and other characteristics, because of its golden color, Tibetans traditionally called "Haijinsha", historically and Cordyceps as an important economic resources of Shuanghu County, but also a breakthrough in the industrial poverty alleviation of Shuanghu County. Ocean University of China is located in the coastal city of Qingdao, as a "double-first-class" construction university with the distinctive characteristics of marine and aquatic disciplines, how did it go from the coast of the Yellow Sea to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, spanning thousands of kilometers from east to west, and deeply participating in the development of brine worm egg resources in Naqu Shuanghu Lake and industrial poverty alleviation?

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Prairie eagles

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Tibetan antelope (male)

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

A big cat turned out to be the legendary lynx. The first time we met, there was a lot of interruption.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Gu Ying's Tibetan antelope?

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Hidden wild donkey, there is a head rolling on the ground, probably on the back of the need to tickle it

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

This is a female Tibetan antelope

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Tibetan hartebeest, big eyes, white butt, little cute

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

ruddy shelduck

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Tibetan Hartebeest

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

This is Baling Township, Shuanghu County, Nagqu City, there are temples and white pagodas

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Tibetan antelope

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

There are hundreds of spotted geese in this lake

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Most of the poor grassland eagles sat directly on the ground, because there were no trees in Changtang, not a single one. This one sits on a telephone pole.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

The head of the Tibetan wild donkey, when running, is always raised, in case there is a rat hole in the ground, it will be miserable

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

The plateau has great beauty, the scenery is on the road

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

It's a paradise for wildlife, and there are few people here.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

In fact, the grassland sculpture alone has seen a lot. It's just that I don't get much shot. They are very alert.

On June 29, 2021, Baling Township arrived in Tsozhi Roman Township.

Driving on the dirt road, there have been small rats sneaking around in front of the car, some rats hear the sound of the car in the distance, and they begin to panic and flee for their lives, and some rats will be crushed by the car if they are not careful. Ren Qing is a devout Buddhist, even mosquitoes will not be killed, if he accidentally crushed the rat, he will panic, saying that he wants to go back to light the lamp, light the butter lamp, for the rat excess? For a while, he said, rats were killed because rats were making holes everywhere and destroying pastures. As a result, there are fewer rat holes, but more donkeys. Why? Because of the way the Tibetan donkey walked, he looked very arrogant, his head facing the sky, not looking at the ground. So if you are not careful, you will step on the rat hole, you will be tragic, your foot will be broken, and then you will lose your life. Renqing said that the number of Tibetan wild donkeys in Shuanghu County is too large, and it is necessary to kill a batch, about 3,000. The government will arrange it. If there are too many Tibetan wild donkeys, they need to eat grass roots, which is the ration of many animals, including yaks, goats, wild yaks, Tibetan hartebeests, Tibetan antelopes and so on.

Today, we're going to cross 12 lakes. But there are too many lakes, and Renqing can't name the lakes. Lakes and mountains, blue skies and white clouds, vast grasslands, everything is beautiful. It's far from the hustle and bustle, with no buildings, not even humans. Some are desolate, wilderness and wildlife.

At noon, we came to a lake, and Renqing took out a table and chairs, a barbecue grill, yak beef, eggplant, bell peppers, potatoes. Renqing's barbecue technique is good. Mosquitoes on the grass flock to the grass, but do not bite. It's just uncomfortable to look at. Obviously with wine, I just don't want to drink, no passion, no excitement. The high altitude killed my wildness.

At 2:30 p.m., we came to Seringo, currently the largest lake in Tibet. The lake is the same color as the sky, is that highland blue? Enchanting blue.

Along the way, the easiest wildlife to see is the Tibetan hartebeest, which features a white butt. They are not big, gray bodies, big eyes, very cute. Males have antelope horns, females do not.

There are also many Tibetan wild donkeys. Their tall figures look very handsome, orange and white colors, sexy butts, and a beautiful scenery on the grassland.

Every time I see a Tibetan antelope, I will inevitably hear such a song in my mind:

When the gunshots of sin rang out

You fell in that pool of blood

In the snow in June

On a desolate prairie

You said goodbye to the vast world

You've got it in exchange for your blood

The beauty of the prairie

You embraced with your life

Beautiful Tibetan antelope

honk......

The Tibetan antelope wept silently

Wild yaks stand for a long time

They are calling affectionately

Call your name .........

Tonight's stay was like the night before, a large glass sun room with two rows of rooms inside. There's a working group here tonight, and they're all local Tibetans. Because they were there, there was no power outage. I live with Renqing alone, I live in the inner room, he lives in the outer room. There are three sofas (or beds) in the outer room and two in the inner room. Because it was just the two of us, we could sleep loosely. Could have stayed here for five people. Renqing likes to smoke and likes vibrato. I don't like either of them.

The roman town is not as prosperous as Baling Township, and there is no lama temple and no white pagoda.

A bird photographed by the lake today is as big as a goose, but its neck is not that long. The body is off-white. There are two black strips on the wings and a slight yellowish on the head. This big bird looks quite noble and has extraordinary temperament. There may be hundreds of such birds in this lake, taking off in flocks, as if to startle the smell of a pool of gulls and herons. After returning home, I found that it was a spotted goose, identified by "understanding birds". Plateau birds, weighing 2-3 kg, are very adapted to highland life and fly over Mount Everest during migration, for which they can withstand only 30% oxygen concentration at sea level, mainly because the red blood cells in their bodies combine with oxygen faster than other birds.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Large herds of Tibetan antelope, in general, Tibetan antelope men and women move separately. So these are women.

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

This is the place to stay in Baling Township. In the middle are glass sun rooms, flanked by rooms for guest accommodation

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Renqing took me to the Tibetan tea house for dinner, air-dried lamb, ginseng fruit rice (actually rice and raisins, for entertaining precious guests), fried with ghee, lamb and gnocchi soup, sweet tea

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Baling Township, Shuanghu County, Nagqu City

A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land
A lonely journey - the second crossing of the Changtang no man's land

Lunch, a barbecue by the lake, is part of the itinerary. Obviously, this is Renqing's strength or good play.

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