"Dear Dr. Shao, our country is finished. I'm sad. Now there are soldiers with guns everywhere, and officials have run away. I have sealed off all the grottoes and warehouses. I can only flee for the time being, goodbye. ”
- Ahead
In August 2021, Ahmed, the caretaker of the Bamiyan Grottoes, sent me a message late at night. When I see overwhelming news of the rapid evolution of the situation in Afghanistan, I intuitively feel that maybe the future will be indefinite.
Afghanistan to the world, Bamiyan to Afghanistan
We are all small people in the big era, I (Shao Xuecheng) am a young man who studies Afghan archaeological art, from doctoral research on Bamiyan, to planning Afghan exhibitions and scientific research cooperation, it has been more than ten years now. Every trip to Afghanistan in the past to investigate cultural heritage has been unforgettable, and we have traveled with local scholars, and Ahid is our archaeological guide.
Dr Shao Xuecheng (2nd from right) and Mr. Ahead, a member of the restoration team (3rd from right)
(Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
Since the transition of power in Afghanistan last year, I have not had the opportunity to continue working on the ground, but have to communicate online. My new story with Bamiyan in April also begins with Ahmed.
Recently, in cooperation with Ahmed, we Chinese people participated for the first time in the work of maintaining and repairing the Bamiyan Grottoes with the permission of the Afghan Interim Administration.
Hollowed-out Afghanistan is in crisis
Afghanistan is the heart of Asia. Not only is it located at the "crossroads" of cultural traffic between the East and the West, but its relatively closed mountainous plateau also preserves a large number of ancient civilizations.
Afghanistan at the "crossroads" (red cheraf is not a traditional passageway)▼
The World Cultural Heritage "Bamiyan Archaeological And Cultural Landscape" is the pride of all mankind, especially in the world's tallest Buddha statue built in the 6th and 7th centuries, which has become an iconic landscape of the Silk Road, which is indeed remarkable.
For example, the famous Bamiyan East Buddha
This is an image from the end of the 1970s (Photo: Kyoto University).
Bamiyan has more than 750 grottoes and more than 130 fortresses, and there are a large number of unexplored underground heritage in the surrounding valleys, representing a model of the development and integration of ancient Zoroastrian, Buddhist, Islamic and other religious civilizations.
The "Bamiyan Archaeological And Cultural Landscape" is not limited to the main valley of Bamiyan
It includes 2 ancient cities, 3 grottoes and 1 castle
A total of 6 heritage sites (horizontal view of the distribution map)▼
However, with the invasion of natural weathering and man-made destruction, especially the frequent natural disasters such as earthquakes, floods, mudslides and so on, most of the sites are in a state of emergency endangerment, which has been affecting the heartstrings of the world in recent years.
The image of the bodhisattva and the veil in the murals of the Western Buddha's patio
The fresco style was influenced by the 6th century India's Chando period
It no longer exists (Photo: Higuchi Takayasu)▼
The Bamiyan Valley is covered with snow for 5 to 6 months of the year, and whenever the snow melts and rains in the summer, the water on the summit will flow down, washing the cliff surface and causing physical cuts, causing the conglomerate mass to decompose and part of the cliff to crumbling.
A complete view of the Eastern Buddha in the 1970s
The trapezoidal shape on the left side of the Giant Buddha is a concrete building that repairs and reinforces the shrine
(Photo: Akira MIYAJI)▼
In the last century, in order to protect the cliff grottoes from rain and snow erosion, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designed a drainage ditch system at the top of the overall cliff in 1969-1977 to guide the flow of water from the high point of the Buddhist Shrine Grottoes, so that the grotto architecture and frescoes could be protected.
Maintenance of the ditch at the top of the Bamiyan West Buddha (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
As a result of the huge blasting impact of the gravel massif in the civil war, the cliff surface of the mountain was more fragile, and the sand and gravel weathering blocked the canal. In addition, many grottoes have collapsed cracks, and waterproof infiltration and erosion are particularly important.
Restoration team members cleaned the drainage ditch at the top of the Bamiyan West Buddha (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
After 2002, UNESCO cooperated with ICOMOS Germany to protect and update the drainage ditch system again, of which the ditch excavation and cleaning were regularly carried out in spring and autumn, and maintenance and restoration were the most important, which could ensure the safety of the Bamiyan Shrine and grotto buildings.
The restoration team is cleaning up the top drainage system of the Bamiyan West Buddha (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
In addition to the protection of hardware facilities, professional skills are also important. In the past, there were only 5 Bamiyan heritage administrators, 2 were UNESCO copywriters, who worked in the hotel office to monitor the heritage; 3 insisted on the grotto was Ahead, a young man and an elderly key manager, commonly known as the "Cultural Relics Management Office", who were responsible for the specific daily restoration construction and protection inspection work, and they often summarized information and sent it to experts and scholars from all over the world.
People who used to work with the International Restoration Team (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
Since August 2021, after The "City Head Changing King Flag" in Afghanistan, countries around the world have urgently withdrawn their staff. UNESCO employees in Bamiyan also ran back to Kabul airport from the Bamiyan Mountain Road overnight and evacuated in a hurry. This kind of visible embarrassment made the operation system of the cultural and museum institution collapse almost overnight and was paralyzed.
The head of the Eastern Buddha in the 1970s
Reinforcement works are underway (photo: UNESCO)▼
On the other hand, professionals who are willing to stay in their home countries, out of their natural fears, have also temporarily fled their posts and gone into hiding, and Bamiyan has become a "borderland".
Indian restoration team in the 1970s
Restoration of the grotto scene at the top of the Bamiyan East Buddha (Photo: Miyaji Akira)▼
After sealing off the doors and windows of the grotto, Ahid also temporarily hid in the refugee camp, because we often worked together and knew each other, and there was a scene that began to send me a message. Looking at the current situation of their wandering and wandering, I also feel helpless, but there is nothing I can do.
Once the foot of the Bamiyansi Buddha was cleaning up and repairing the ground
Discover a lotus flower platform at the foot of the Big Buddha
Thus the height of the Bamiyansi Buddha was changed from 53 meters to 55 meters (photo: Z. Tariz).
What followed was anxiety sliding into the abyss of apathy and oblivion, and as a result of the evacuation and severance of diplomatic relations, the world was unable to regulate Afghanistan's cultural heritage. Bad news of some cultural relics being illegally stolen has appeared sporadically on the Internet, and scholars have been sweating in their hearts.
For example, Cave 5 of the Fradi Caves in Bamiyan
It is now occupied by animal feces and straw (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
The Afghan people and cultural heritage are suffering from abandonment and oblivion, and the information I can learn is also that Ahed has sent off the camps on and off.
Save people first or protect cultural relics first?
Whatever the changes in the form of national government, the cultural heritage of its countries must be protected, as stipulated in the Charter of the United Nations and as a rule followed by all mankind. However, the new regime is in ruins, the supervision and management of cultural heritage is very difficult, much of the work has stalled, and almost all the voices about Bamiyan have disappeared.
On the other hand, most of Afghanistan's territory is mountainous and plateau, not only with high altitude and little agricultural arable land, but also backward social infrastructure and poor ability to resist natural disaster risks.
The traditional way of getting around for local residents
Riding a donkey or horse instead of walking (Photo: Latif Azimi)▼
According to Ahmed, Bamiyan's fragile agriculture has unfortunately suffered from successive floods and droughts, with a massive reduction in food production, and life is very difficult, and many people are struggling to survive.
From the Bamiyan East Buddha Shrine, look out over the Bamiyan Valley
It is the best position for the viewing angle (photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
In reality, the new regime is also very anxious, on the one hand, foreign exchange is frozen, and wages cannot be paid. On the other hand, various international sanctions and epidemics have raged, and relief supplies have been inaccessible and humanitarian crises have intensified. Compared with saving lives and helping the injured, the maintenance and restoration of cultural heritage can only be temporarily shelved.
The local traditional earthen embryo architecture of Bamiyan
Shaped like a steamed bun (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
The maintenance of the Bamiyan Caves, which was scheduled for autumn, has been missed, and spring has come, and if it is not urgently carried out, it will be destroyed in the event of heavy rain. Is it to save people first or to protect cultural relics first? This conundrum is once again highlighted in reality.
In the past, the cave keepers patrolled the top of the grotto (photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
Similar problems arose more than 20 years ago, when the tragedy of the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddha was remembered, in part because international organizations neglected to care about the food and clothing of refugees and paid too much attention to Buddhist artifacts. The result was the inflamation of extremist ideas, to the point of destroying artifacts in retaliation for the international community. Once this extreme ideological behavior is formed, it will continue to repeat itself along the Silk Road, so it must be avoided as soon as possible.
IN OCTOBER 2018 UNESCO WAS HELD IN TOKYO
Bamiyan Eastern Buddha Reconstruction and Restoration Reflection Research Society (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
Since last August, we have made some preparations in advance to prevent and respond to the antiquities crisis and humanitarian disaster caused by large-scale war conflicts.
The Bamiyan Caves are in post-war restoration
Discover that some of the grotto buildings were destroyed during the war
Hidden manuscripts and artifacts may appear (Photo: Maeda Farming)▼
After the transition of power, some Chinese philanthropic foundations and non-governmental organizations began to arrange volunteers to assist refugees. We work with these agencies to help refugees and unemployed people within our means.
Every March the Great Buddha is destroyed in the Bamiyan Grottoes
Light and shadow reproduce the Giant Buddha and the mourning recitation (Photo: Latif Azimi)▼
On the day of Nowruz (Afghan New Year) in 2022, Ahaid, who was in the refugee camp, was found by volunteers and received relief supplies. At that moment, watching my old friend Ahid, whom I had not seen for a long time, get real help, I was very excited, and I felt that my heart that had been hanging was much more relaxed. Because he has given me too much help in the past, and I can return too little.
Buddhas and pagodas in the remaining frescoes on the outer wall of the Bamiyan Ca Caves
In the middle is a seated Buddha, whose face has been damaged
There is a lotus pattern in the center of the back screen of the seated Buddha
There is a treasure vase on the upper side, and 3 bunches of branches are born in the bottle (pictured: Shao Xuecheng).▼
At the same time, Ahmed was deeply touched by the positive efforts of Chinese non-governmental organizations, so he consulted with me and decided to go out of the camp and try to do more things, especially his work that he never let go of Bamiyan.
The image of a devotee in the Bamiyan Cb (164) Cave Buddha fresco
The robe garment with the right lapel can be seen among many Bamiyan offerings
(Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
It's a bold idea. From what I know of Ahid, he is the most competent and experienced person to deal with the problem at the moment.
The image of the bodhisattva on the west wall of the West Buddha's patio, with a graceful posture
The face is in a three-quarters posture with the eyes hanging down to the lower left
Gentle look at the sentient beings, now no longer exist (Photo: Higuchi Takayasu)▼
In the second phase of the assistance work, the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul, the National Archaeological Administration and other counterparts received supplies, and the families of each wenbo person had no worries about food and clothing and began to resume work. In this regard, the new regime acquiesced and welcomed it.
So Ahmed and volunteers went to Bamiyan with relief supplies to assist universities and refugees, and gathered unemployed cultural and cultural volunteers as volunteers to help distribute supplies.
The sports square in front of the West Giant Buddha Grotto
Local teenagers often play here (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
Kung Fu pays off, and more changes are produced in caution. At this time, when Chinese journalists and teachers were going to Bamiyan for routine interviews, we sent a note to the provincial government in advance after consultation, and also investigated the current situation of cultural heritage. The new regime took this very seriously and called on Ahmed, who was providing humanitarian assistance.
Therefore, Chinese journalists and teachers inspected together with Ahide, systematically investigated the current situation of cultural relics protection, and obtained basic information. On 17 March 2022 Bamiyan sent us a letter expressing his gratitude for our humanitarian assistance. At the same time, cultural relics protection measures and increased protection personnel were also proposed, and Ahaid also obtained personal safety guarantees and estimated the content of the work.
When we saw the letter, although there were no work details and budget, we suddenly knew that the opportunity for maintenance and repair had come!
But new problems have emerged, and the "Ramadan" in Afghanistan is coming soon, with tight time, high intensity of work and heavy tasks, how can it be completed? Where does the money come from?
Just do it! This is the dignity of all human civilization!
Based on past experience, the opportunity to protect and repair Bamiyan may be in this moment.
Ahid was familiar with the maintenance of the grotto, and he gathered the original German and Japanese-trained restoration personnel, and also specially called for our assistants who had investigated in the past. Everyone knows the difficulty and risks of this work, but there is no fear, and the loyalty and dedication of their mountain peoples are reflected at this moment, waiting for my final decision.
Do it or not?
On the one hand, I consulted WITH UNESCO and restoration experts from Japan and Germany overnight, and everyone agreed to do so, and encouraged the gathering of local skilled workers, without setting the expected target, they would only and only convey their opinions to me, and I would then collect them and convey them to the locals, but they could not provide funding. On the other hand, chinese teachers and friends gave me great support, and they decided to provide assistance in the form of non-governmental assistance and "generate electricity with love." Then do it!
Repair the grotto gate in the lower part of the West Buddha (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
On the first day of work, we were at peace. The drainage ditch and grotto at the top of the West Buddha were cleared. In the evening, several members of the team couldn't help but send me messages, and I felt their excitement across the screen. And all I can do is encourage and praise them.
The next morning, work was suspended due to the unexpected appearance of armed personnel in military vehicles to avoid unnecessary trouble. In the afternoon, the Evasion Team continued to maintain and repair the Eastern Buddha. In the evening, the opinions of UN experts also came, the specific work had timely guidance, and the process was on the right track.
In the next few days of work, Ahead would send photos of the progress of the work every day at noon and in the evening, and I would record and write a log of the restoration work, and then send it to experts from various countries. The expectations and tasks given by the United Nations experts are also increasing, and the Japanese scholar Professor Yoko is almost sleepless for 24 hours, guarding my news.
In 2009, Dr. Yoko Taniguchi, an international restoration expert
Murals in the restoration of Bamiyan I Caves (Photo: Yoko Taniguchi)▼
Bamiyan spent a week in the dust, hundreds of meters of blocked drainage ditches were dredged, more than a dozen cubes of soil were dug; more than thirty grottoes were cleaned up, repaired and installed more than a dozen grotto doors and windows; more than ten Islamic castles were reinforced, and two pirate caves were backfilled... Ramadan arrives, the first phase of maintenance and restoration work is over, and Bamiyan is temporarily safe.
The restoration team cleans up the XIV(a) West Buddha-738 Grottoes (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
We finally breathed a sigh of relief, and tens of thousands of words of work reports were also handed over to the government, universities and research institute teachers for their research and use. The Bamiyan Caves have also been officially opened to the public, welcoming visitors from all over the world to visit, travel and study tours.
The new regime security personnel worked with the restoration team to clear the grotto
Preach the importance of grotto protection (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
The Great Buddha is gone, but its dignity is still there, and the great Bamiyan heritage and art will always touch people's hearts. At this moment, there are more and more teachers and friends standing next to me, and art history professors, "Friends of Dunhuang" in Hong Kong, and friends from Taiwan have joined the ranks of volunteers.
Now to prevent falling rocks from above, scaffolding is strewn
(Close-up view of BamiyanSi Buddha, Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
In the process of this restoration work, there are certainly countless difficulties encountered, I do not want to talk about, but there is more of a happiness of ideal realization inspiring.
Repair the grotto doors and windows at the foot of the Eastern Buddha (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
Living in the present, we are all well aware of the so-called difficulties and dilemmas, the ancient Chinese Xuanzang masters who visited Bamiyan, in reality, Ahaid is more difficult than us, but the courage and courage inspired by difficulties are many times more than us. They stubbornly live, tear each other apart from reality, work in the face of adversity to protect the hopes of human civilization, and do their last part to protect and promote cultural heritage.
The passage in front of the East Buddha
In the past, they were all sealed off for protection (Photo: Shao Xuecheng).▼
We have to protect them, protect these good intentions. I salute them!
Dr. Shao Xuecheng and UNESCO Restoration Expert (Photo: Shao Xuecheng)▼
*The content of this article is provided by the author and does not represent the position of the Earth Knowledge Bureau
Cover: Shao Xuecheng
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