Many varieties are unique, and some varieties, such as Gem Summer, were born in Ethiopia and no one asked, and the world knows about Sebah.
There are also varieties, such as the Tang Dynasty's Yang Yuhuan crossed to the Song Dynasty, that figure is not happy, and even let the post-production processor helpless, so it was placed in the cold palace for several years by people to be looked down upon, lack of people to ask.
Until one day, the time and place are favorable, someone gave her the opportunity to take the stage, she was favored by the polished Bole, and then with a unique large size, excellent flavor, magical spice flavor structure, loved by coffee gourmets.
Today, let's talk to my friends about the fame story of Yang Yuhuan's Meidou-Pakamara variety in the coffee industry, as well as her flavor characteristics.
01
About Pakamara's mom and dad
Pictured: Pakamara coffee fruit
Pacamara PARAMARA, named after PACAS Pacas and MARAGOGYPE Maraggo Gibe, these two coffee varieties, take the first four letters of their father's name and combine them to form PACAMARA.
Pacamara's paternalism was Pacas, a natural mutant of bourbon coffee that was discovered in 1949 in the Santa Ana region of Salvador, which has very similar flavor characteristics to bourbon coffee, except that it is sweeter but feels better.
Maragogype, the mother of Pakamara PACAMARA, is a natural mutation of the Typica variety that was discovered in Brazil in 1870. Maragogype, also known as elephant beans, has a very large fruit, and the Malago gibe coffee tree has a low production capacity, but the flavor of the coffee is very good.
Pictured: Pakamara's body size still has the gene of elephant beans, which is very large
When Pacas was discovered by farmers in El Salvador, the country's agricultural experts tried to improve Pakas.
Since 1958, the Salvadoran Coffee Institute (ISIC) has been studying how to combine the two varieties of Pacas and Marago Gibe.
After about 30 years of scientific research, in late 1980, the first generation of the Pacamara hybrid was distributed to coffee growers in the country.
Pictured: Family tree of Pakamara PACAMARA
Although Pacamara, obtained by crossbreeding Pacas with Maragogype, is genetically uncertain, its offspring have a 10% to 12% chance of returning to the pacas parent breed.
At the same time, when Pacamara was just harvested (in the 1990s), farmers did encounter some problems, because her bean type was too huge, El Salvador was a country with washing treatment at that time, this bean was in the process of peeling processing, a bit of headache, peeling machine design to give the fruit through the pore size, did not count such a large bean!
Therefore, the post-processing equipment has also undergone some tuning and modification before it can be washed.
Pictured: Pacamara PACAMARA (second from left) bean shape is huge
Pacamara, like his parents Bourbon and Tin Pica, is vulnerable to coffee diseases such as leaf rust and berries. But despite all these drawbacks, why are scientists and farmers willing to promote the cultivation of pacamara?
It turns out that it is because the flavor of Pacamara is so fascinating, it has a contradictory, confused flavor structure that makes the taster love it and do not know what to do with it.
Pacamara combines the sweetness of the Bourbon coffee family Pagas with the delicacy of the Tin Pica family Maragogipe, the flavor of Pacamara that surpasses its parents.
02
About the birth of Pakamara
Pictured: Pakamara washed beans at the second place estate in Coe in El Salvador in 2005
As mentioned earlier, the SalvadorAn Coffee Centre has been distributing Pacamara seedlings to farmers since the late 1980s.
Pacamara grows best at high altitudes with cool climates, it is wind-resistant, and the size of the tree body makes it easier to harvest in steep terrain.
In the highlands of El Salvador's western state of Santa Ana and northwestern Chalatenango, this new hybrid is grown in coffee plantations.
Photo: The main growing area of Pacamara in El Salvador
El Salvador has been hosting the Cup of Excellence COE competition since 2003, and in 2003 the COE had five batches of washed Pacamara finalists, with the best place being 12th.
By 2004, four batches of washed Pacamara had been shortlisted, and the best spot came to 7th.
By 2005, five batches had been shortlisted, and Pacamara had finished second, becoming the dominant bean species.
Pictured: El Salvador's 2003-2005 Cup of Excellence Pakamara report card
Judging from the gold auction record of the El Salvador Cup of Excellence from 2003 to 2005, pacamara in 2003 was marked by coffee companies in Japan, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Ireland.
In 2004, the high-profile third wave of specialty coffee brands in the United States, such as Tree Dung City, as well as intellectuals, and the well-known green bean merchant Sweet Maria all came to bid.
Then in 2005, the Norwegian chain coffee shop brand also went to the sea to snap up, bidding for the second and ninth place pakamara batches.
It's true that all the bakers around the world have fallen under the beauty of Pakamara!
Then, from 2008 to 2014, seven of El Salvador's world WBC champions, the country's champion baristas, chose Pacamara.
Alejandro in El Salvador in 2011! Mendez barista, with the country's endemic variety, Pacamara, won the world barista competition.
Pictured: Salvadoran baristas win the 2011 WBC title
03
About the flavors of Pakamara
What does Pakamara bean taste like?
She actually has a more flavor than people love and hate, is bittersweet, is salty and sweet, a strange combination of flavors that makes the extraordinary cup judges overwhelmed and do not know how to pinch the points.
As mentioned earlier, after the birth of the Cup of Excellence, Pakamara was very sought after by coffee companies in various countries, and the United States was one of the big financiers, and many of the bidders came from the United States.
Let's use a few of the Pacamara reviews from Coffee Review, a North American roasted coffee review site, to get a glimpse of the charm of this coffee.
I picked out four reports from 2020 to 2022, and the cupper kept mentioning several repetitive descriptive sentences: sweet and salty, bittersweet.
Above is a review just published in the March 2022 issue in which the cup tester described the washed pacamamaram as:
"Deep in color, sweet and delicious. Pomegranate, toffee, shiitake mushrooms, dark chocolate, marjoram aromas and cups. The structure is sweet and delicious, the acidity is balanced and bright; the plush, syrupy taste is delicious. The resonant aftertaste blends notes of pomegranate and dark chocolate with hints of shiitake mushrooms. "
A complex, delicate, multi-layered Salvadoran Pacamara cup with equal sweet and savory tastes.
This is a sample of Pakamara submitted by Toriwa Coffee last November, and the review describes it this way:
"Deep sweet and salty, complex and layered. Asian pear, rhododendron, grapefruit, peanut butter, walnut preserves aromas and cups. Rich bittersweet mixed structure with mild bright acidity, plush, syrupy smooth taste. The aftertaste is long and the aftertaste is long. "
Striking, complex and richly coloured Pacamara cups from El Salvador – classic bittersweet, elegant and subtle.
This packet was processed with Pakamara honey submitted by the American Red Rooster in February this year, and the reviewer said that its flavor was:
A richly colored, floral and chocolate-scented Pacamara mug with a bittersweet citrus peel.
The above article is Kakaai Coffee from Chiayi, Taiwan Province, who submitted a batch of Panamanian anaerobic Pacamara in 2020 and scored 95 points, and the cup tester described the coffee like this:
"Unique sweet pie, lactic tendency. Aromas of pink grapefruit, goat cheese, cloves, honey, oak and cups.
Balanced, intricate hierarchy with complex, intense acidity; rich, syrupy smooth taste. Intense, long, citrus-like finish with a honey undertone. "
Pictured: The appearance of green beans in Pacamara
From the previous cupping review, it can be seen that the flavor structure of Pakamara is very complex. Although she has the pedigree of Bourbon Coffee Pacas, she has more spice flavor and is not the typical Bourbon fruit sweetness.
Her sour taste can be prominent, brighter than the high acidity of The Parajinema I introduced last time.
She has the delicate floral fragrance of a tin pickup, but it is also mixed with the bitterness of citrus peels, so her sinking scale is very deep, the flavor amplitude is huge, and the uplifted floral fragrance and the spicy fragrance of the wandering make the structure of the flavor intricate.
Then, she often carries a salty taste.
Below is a batch of Pakamala washed coffee submitted to Coffee Review by GK Coffee in Yilan, Taiwan Province in 2020.
The judges put it this way of Pacamara:
"Intense fruity and floral notes. Aromas of passion fruit, daffodils, five-spice powder, cocoa grains, orange peel and in the cup. Sweet and salty structure, juicy, high-profile acidity; light syrup taste. Rich dry, absinthe-like aftertaste. "
Read this, have you ever drunk a pacamara? Is the pakamara you often visit this sour, bitter, salty and sweet flavor that overwhelms you?
In fact, when Pakamara came out, it was indeed a headache for the COE Excellence Cup judges. They meet for an hour to discuss and need a little bit of consensus.
At first, because Pakamara has Bourbon ancestry, the judges are still accustomed to treating Pakamara with Bourbon scores.
However, because the tonality of the spice is not the characteristic of bourbon coffee, the score of Pacamara was not high at first.
But gradually the judges changed to a different perspective on Pacamara, and Pacamara's score was distanced from other beans.
Figure: Analysis of CoE varieties in El Salvador in 2021
Judging by last year's latest El Salvador Cup of Excellence performance, Pacamara accounted for 50% of the shortlisted batches, and the champion bean is also Pacamara.
El Salvador's Pacamara is one of the few beans in the Latin American Cup of Excellence that can perform no less than the threat of Gem summer.
04
Gives you an atypical flavor sensation
Coffee Review once published an article in 2018 about the so-called "soy" flavor, with the headline:
Novelty, scarcity, atypical sensory enjoyment - about soybean varieties.
At present, the coffee industry can be called soybean varieties, that is, pacamara, Maracaturra, and Maragogipe.
But the most well-known is pacamara.
Pictured: The size of the green beans in Pakamara is huge
Soybean seeds are difficult to bake due to their unusual size and porosity.
Pacamara varieties tend to have a slightly lower density and require a different way of baking than traditional varieties. If the baker does not conduct enough heat, it is possible to roast too quickly, leaving the soybeans charred on the outside but not cooked on the inside.
Therefore, the baking of pacamara is very challenging to the process technology of the bean baker.
But the baked pacamara has a very good aroma such as chocolate and creamy taste. Then there's the bright hints of citric acid, tropical and stone fruits, and floral notes.
From chocolate and caramel to tropical fruits and sweet, intoxicating florals, pacamara is often presented in unusual and amazing combinations.
And then don't forget, her classic is sweet and salty, bittersweet, like sipping a glass of absinthe, intoxicated with painful pleasure.
If you haven't drunk the Pakamara variety yet, don't forget to look for it, drink it, and experience it!