In many years before liberation, the loom was a stage for women, although the material was extremely scarce, but the industrious and brave women guarded the wisps of linen in front of the loom, weaving the days and weaving the future. Old coarse cloth, also known as native cloth, is a hand-woven fabric process that has been used by working people for thousands of years, and is a good product that is green and pollution-free. Wudu folk weaving technique is a traditional handicraft of weaving cloth using a homemade loom and using hemp as a raw material to weave cloth through a complicated process. The "Chronicle of Wudu County" records that before the liberation, the costumes of the people of Wudu County were simple, except for a few rich people who could wear silk, most of them wore self-woven native cloth. At present, the folk weaving skills of Wudu are widely distributed, and they should be distributed in more than ten townships such as Yulong, Longxing, Anhua, Ganquan, Sanhe, Luotang, etc., and are circulated in the Bailong River Basin and the West Han River Basin.
Wudu folk weaving skills are extremely complex, and local old artists are rumored to have twenty-four large processes and seventy-two small processes, which are the crystallization of the wisdom of working people for thousands of years. There are many advantages of linen, such as high wear strength, moisture absorption, heat conductivity, excellent air permeability, etc. From planting to hand-woven products, no pollution, no chemical treatment, bleaching, printing and dyeing, etc., no chemical components, no additives. Wearing soft and comfortable, breathable, sweat-absorbing, warm in winter and cool in summer, no static electricity, anti-radiation effect, with market economy value, is a real green environmental protection products.
In Wudu, small linen is woven with small hemp, also called flax. After the ripe flax is harvested from the seeds, it is tied into a small handle for ripening hemp. There are two ways to cook hemp: one is to soak the hemp in a pre-dug hemp pond for a month; the other is to spread it directly on the ground to let the rain, and through forty days of wind and sun, the small hemp is cooked. After the cooked hemp is dried, it is beaten with a bed knife, which is actually to separate the hemp fiber from the hemp stalk, and after knocking through, it is necessary to comb it with a wooden comb, and the combed hemp fiber is tied into a handle to straighten out and put it to use.
Next is the twisting of the wire, with a pole or spinning wheel, the pole twisting operation is simple, a small bamboo stick is inlaid with a log gyroscope, and a small iron hook with a hanging wire can be placed on the bamboo stick. The spinning wheel has a complex structure and a large volume, and can only be fixed at home, but the spinning wheel twisting line is faster than the pole speed. Twisted twine with a wire coil wrapped into a lime, tied into a small handle and then washed in the river mallet, washed and dried and wrapped into a line ball, the line is also divided into two kinds, the warp is spherical, the thread is drawn from the outside to the inside, the weft line is shuttle-shaped, the thread is used from the inside to the outside, and the size coincides with the shuttle's threading groove.
After the thread is wrapped well, you can start weaving, first of all, you must pull the warp thread to do "intercourse". When doing intercourse in the yard or relatively wide field, it is necessary to determine the number of warp threads according to the fineness of the woven linen, and the length of the woven linen is the length of the warp, and the meridian line should be rolled well, that is, to lay a good foundation for the thread thread, and when the thread is crossed, it is necessary to spare more than a dozen equipment for loading the thread, a line group and a line group, and then pull the thread back and forth to coil the line, one end to do the handover, one end fixed, until the number of warp lines is enough. The warp thread is threaded through the chaff and the warp thread that is ready is worn on the chaff one by one with a knife-piercing knife. Then put on the shelf shabu line, this process is to fix the bran on the sackcloth shelf of the bran antlers, the other end with the pulling line fixed and straightened, put a bench in the middle, and then with the bran made of paste line, the bran paste must be waited for the water in the pot to boil when the bran stirs, until the bran is boiled.
If the bran is not cooked, the thread that comes out is easy to fiber, and the food is easy to break the thread during the sliding process. When the shabu paste is held from the top of the line, the other hand holds the paste below the line and the shabu relative to the shabu line, the action should be stretched when the shabu line is relaxed, the two hands should be smooth, the shabu should be symmetrical, the shabu-shabu line looks bright and smooth, and the shabu is wrapped on the antler for a period of distance until all the shabu is complete. Then the linen was woven. The good twine is beaten and wrapped on the antlers before weaving the linen, and when the thread is wrapped, it is beaten neatly with a wooden stick, and then the end of the thread is fixed, and the thread begins to be threaded, and the thread is replaced by a cotton thread, and a warp line is pulled apart, so that when weaving the linen, the warp can be lifted up and down, so that the weft line can also move back and forth.
Nowadays, with the development of society and the progress of science and technology, China has long become a contemporary textile power, far ahead in the world textile industry. Although there are many processes of weaving cloth with traditional techniques, in today's commercialization, people understand the preciousness of ingenuity and original intention, so those old traditions with strong local atmosphere and distinct national characteristics are more and more nostalgic. At present, the government department of Wudu District has strengthened the protection and inheritance of Wudu weaving skills. Retain the craftsmanship, inherit the ingenuity, and let the excellent traditional crafts inherit and carry forward!
Editor-in-Charge: He Han
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