Every generation of dynasties in Chinese history inevitably produced changes in clothing, especially in the Qing Dynasty.
In the first year of the reign of Qing Shun (1644), the Manchu Qing Dynasty demanded that "all officials and civilians who surrender to the government should wear their hair and wear clothes in accordance with the system of the dynasty." Therefore, in 276, the Qing Dynasty implemented a system of shaving and changing clothes, using the means of "cutting off those who do not obey" as a means, forcing all ethnic groups under its rule, mainly Han, Mongolian and other ethnic minorities in the south, to change the Manchu hairstyle and implement the high-pressure policy of "leaving no hair and no hair".
On October 10, 1911, the Wuchang Uprising broke out. On January 1, 1912, the Provisional Government of the Republic of China was established, and the Provisional President Sun Yat-sen issued the "Decree on Cutting Braids". All men are required to cut their braids within 20 days from the date of promulgation of the decree, and those who do not carry it out within the time limit are considered guilty of breaking the law.
It's easy to stop braiding, but what to wear to reflect the new society is a problem.
On December 29, 1912, Yuan Shikai issued a decree reforming the uniform system, changing the red tape and robes and coats of the Qing Dynasty to a simpler etiquette system and short clothing. The uniform system promulgated in the early years of the Republic of China was the first time in Chinese history that Western costumes were introduced to China in the form of laws, and as one of the means of social and political change.
Some people in society advocate still wearing robes and gowns, but opponents believe that robes and gowns are inconvenient for life, cutting materials, very uneconomical, and should be abandoned; some people propose to wear suits in all, and opponents believe that all suits are "tantamount to boycotting domestic goods."
After careful consideration, Sun Yat-sen proposed that "the dress must be more often served and listened to by the people", and designed the famous "Zhongshan Suit" in accordance with the principle of "suitable for hygiene, convenient for movement, suitable for economy, and strong for observation". It not only retains the advantages of Western-style clothing as flat, structured and pocketed, but also has the characteristics of high neck and solemnity in the middle of the clothing at that time; it not only highlights the modernity of the clothing, but also expresses the Chinese style. Zhongshan clothing once became one of the favorite standard clothing for Chinese men at that time.
Regarding the design origin of "Zhongshan Suit", there are currently three main theories:
First, Japan's Yoshinaga said. Sun Yat-sen met Zhang Fangcheng, a Ningbo tailor at the "Tongyichang" western clothing store in Yokohama, Japan. Zhang Fangcheng and other tailors referred to the style of Japanese student clothes and non-commissioned officer uniforms, adopted suit modeling and production techniques, integrated into the Chinese costume culture tradition and began to design, and according to Sun Yat-sen's conception, established the five buttons, four pockets, three cufflinks and the inverted pen holder shape of the front pocket cover of the Zhongshan suit, giving each detail a specific cultural connotation.
Second, Vietnamese Hoang Long Sang said. In Hanoi, Vietnam, Sun Yat-sen met Huang Longsheng, a Cantonese man who opened a western clothing store. In accordance with Sun Yat-sen's creativity, Huang Longsheng and others referred to Western European hunting clothes and Japanese clothing styles, combined with the popular "enterprise collar paperwear" tops and student clothing styles among overseas Chinese in Nanyang at that time, and designed and sewn a new style of Chinese clothing that had both Chinese cultural style and enlightened and open spirit. Later, after sun yat-sen's modification, the style of five body buckles, three cufflinks, and bag lid inverted pen holders was determined.
Third, the Shanghai Red Gang said. The first Zhongshan suit came from the hand of the Feng gang (red gang) tailor on the beach that year.
The earliest surviving photograph of Sun Yat-sen wearing a Zhongshan suit is in 1922 when he was serving as a grand marshal of the army, navy and air force in Guangdong to plan the Northern Expedition. This also shows that at the end of the 1920s, Zhongshan clothing was still not popular and was still being promoted. In April 1927, the National Government in Nanjing was established, the political center moved south, and the Zhongshan costume began to be promoted in society. In December 1928, Zhang Xueliang put on a Zhongshan suit when he changed his mind in the northeast and was sworn in as the commander of the northeast border defense. It was not until the 1936 Republic of China government's "Amendment to the Uniform Regulations" that the style of the Zhongshan costume was clarified and emphasized as a "uniform" for male civil servants. Since then, Zhongshan clothing has gradually spread.
Regarding the meaning of Zhongshan clothing, the general saying is:
Zhongshan suit four pockets: representing etiquette, righteousness, honesty, shame;
Five buttons on the placket: legislative, executive, judicial, examination, and five powers of supervision;
Three buttons on the left and right cuffs: respectively, they represent the Three People's Principles (nationality, civil rights, and people's livelihood) and the republican concept (equality, freedom, fraternity);
The back is not cracked, indicating the peaceful reunification of the country;
Collar lapel closure: represents the concept of strict governance.