We have talked a lot about elite women's wear, but most of them revolve around the idea of "how to dress like an 'elite'".
Today I want to change my perspective and talk about the so-called "sense of elite", where is the charm?
According to the editor, the determined and dashing posture of elite women stems from their professionalism from the mind to the soul.
For example, Joan Didion, an elite woman recognized in fashion and art circles:
When people talk about Dressing, they often mention that she worked at VOGUE and try to interpret that this is one of the important reasons why she is fashionable. In fact, when Didion was asked about the experience, what impressed her most was not who taught her to dress, but Allene Talmey, a veteran editor who had worked at VOGUE for more than three decades, who taught her how to use verbs and how to make words precise and effective.
This part of the interview can be found in the book Paris Review: Interviews with Women Writers, where Didion says what he learned in VOGUE: "In an eight-line illustration, all the elements must be useful, every word, every comma. "Translating is that magazines have a limited space and distill the most critical and accurate information for important but not over-described text.
The Chinese translation of "On Self-Esteem" is included in the book "Trek to Bethlehem"
And the articles she wrote for VOGUE when she was an editor were not related to the fashion eight rods, and it was a discussion about self and self-esteem. For example, the text mentions that "when the other party makes a request, she cannot refuse others and does not fall into self-blame", she wrote: "In order to get rid of the state of living from the expectations of others, to return to the self, you must rely on the extraordinary power of self-esteem", this text still sounds useful.
The knitted skirts and pullover sweaters that have been talked about by the fashion circle are also prepared for her to cope with sudden business trips (in addition to fictional novels, Joan Didion regularly provides critical articles for magazines and newspapers, and often goes out as a reporter). Knitted items are not only comfortable and convenient to wear, but this kind of not too elaborate dressing is also easy to make the respondents feel relaxed. Later, it became her style code, which was regarded as an "intellectual" dressing template.
Do you have any impressions of this scene? In the American drama "Battle of Succession", the writer who wants to write a biography of Logan Roy and interviews Greg, the "marginal person" of the family
Compared to Joan Didion's relaxed and lightweight style, the biographer's dress seems to be more in line with the elite aesthetic of the popular definition: a well-tailored navy pinstriped coat, a fine gray cardigan, a vertical striped scarf in a consistent tone with a light knot at the neckline, and a pair of glasses that looked like they had been worn for many years, all revealing calmness, organization and professionalism.
The same writer and journalist, the same gives people the impression of professionalism and elite, why are the two dressed so differently? This is determined by a combination of factors such as specific situations, the identity of journalists, and the identity of interviewees: as a young person, Didion often went deep into the "Beat Generation" in San Francisco's old town, while the elderly biographers, facing the most famous and wealthy people in the industry, naturally had different brands and qualities.
Therefore, we say that the sense of elite is not built up by a certain brand or a few pieces, but serves its own profession and profession, which is naturally formed.
For example, Vanessa Friedman, who we mentioned in the previous article, is very "news femininity"
A graduate of Princeton University, an Ivy League member, she began her career as a freelance fashion commentator, writing regularly for the Financial Times, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, VOGUE and others. Before officially becoming fashion editor and chief fashion critic at The New York Times, Friedman also worked for the Financial Times, one of only editors of the newspaper founded in 1888 to give the title of "Fashion Editor."
This well-educated woman from a "science class" has a bit of a pedantic temperament in herself. But in the fashion industry, Friedman always lets her dress while maintaining professionalism, leaving a "dot", sometimes a pair of sparkling earrings, sometimes inadvertently revealing prints, a professional and not boring dressing concept.
Another offer from the Financial Times fashion editor was Jo Ellison
We wrote one for her before.
As I said in the previous article, "every item has a role in her": the notebook she carries with her is to quickly write down the details of the show; low heels or flat shoes and boots are to be more efficient when rushing to the next runway; the men's coat that has been "favored since I can remember" is not only convenient to wear and free, but also allows her to bring a gender-neutral professional posture.
Compared with these predecessors in the industry, Alexandra Carl, fashion director and consultant of RIKA magazine, with bold silhouettes and standout pieces, can also bring a pragmatic combination of professionalism and wearability.
This group of female intellectuals, composed of writers, journalists, and editors, loves to wear clothes that are also suitable for most women in the workplace. But in terms of style, he is more determined, knowing what kind of pieces can express himself, rather than imitating some kind of popular outfit for the sake of "other people's expectations". Even if it is a new model in the season, it is also a single item that can be integrated into their style system, and it will not deviate too much. This is probably also a shallow level of "self-esteem".
Not absolutely, but if you meet a woman who is "simple" in dress but walks with style outside of fashion week, it is mostly awe-inspiring and powerful characters: they are either veteran editors who have worked for decades or veteran buyers who disdain to compete with young people.
Because people who choose design-inspired pieces are still obsessed with "fashionable" (often happens to "novices"), they want their elaborate outfits to be seen by others (which is also true). Most people who will choose tailored and well-textured items have considered the work and life scene before purchasing, and choose a dress to wear frequently.
For example, a seemingly "unremarkable" woolen coat.
But it's most likely an Armani brand, simple and powerful.
Or an enduring Max Mara coat, where every line of the body complements an elegant and stretchy experience.
This is also a kind of "professionalism" in design.
There's a saying that when you're wearing a coat with a distinct personality, people see the clothes, not you. Especially coats, because of their large area, can almost affect the temperament of the whole person.
It is only when you return the role of clothes to life itself that "you" will be revealed.
For girls on a less budget, there is no need to buy expensive items. You can spend the effort of cutting the budget on choosing a jacket with a fit, fabric, and texture that can support the actual needs.
Fano studio winter new mid-length black double-sided tweed coat
Reference price: 769CNY
Fano Studios, which is sold in the poster SHOP, has always been a brand that everyone likes. Autumn and winter out of this double-sided coat, simply poke at the editor's aesthetic point, the simple H version supplemented by a soft shoulder line, can wrap the shoulders very well, will not be like some oversize shoulder design, the whole person's center of gravity is down "dropped", this coat can put the posture up.
The gun lapels commonly used in suits (see the tip of the collar tip) also have the effect of lifting the air and showing texture, and they are professional and neat to wear. Two colors were deliberately chosen, the steady and thoughtful black, and the camel color that locks the warmth of winter, are both daily and versatile colors, which can be worn often and worn for many years without becoming obsolete.
Fano studio winter new double-placket blazer
Reference price: 599CNY
If you want to add a little fashion, this box-shaped blazer is also very temperamental. The most special thing is its color, a oat color mixed with soft gray tones, which is neither noisy nor youthful than the usual black and brown. Because the fit is more relaxed, it can be used as a coat.
As mentioned earlier, both writers and editors have to take on the role of journalists almost simultaneously. It's a good idea to quickly close the distance with each other during the interview and make them feel relaxed, starting from their clothes.
When the edges and corners of the suit are too sharp, a knit shirt that can make people "let down their guard" can make your hearts and those of the interviewee soften.
Knitted pieces are not the strongest, but they are definitely the most expressive. For example, when Vanessa Friedman, dressed in a fine knitted knit, spreads out her carefully prepared materials on the table and looks at you with gentle and determined eyes, it may be difficult for you to refuse her question, right?
Knitwear is also a favorite of female writers, often for comfort. Because they spend most of their time in the study writing, they don't want to spend too much effort on clothing, and a solid-color knit shirt without any gender characteristics is quite suitable.
Top left: Susan Sontag Bottom right: Francoise Sagan
Like the coats they love to wear, knitwear is almost always a basic style. Writers like Joan Didion and Susan Sontag are busy experiencing life, writing stories with their pens, talking about the times and art, and who has the energy to spend on the small matter of dressing?
More realistic characters, such as Isabelle Huppert, a philosophy teacher in Things to Come. Although I also love to wear knitwear, the choice of the category is much larger, autumn and winter is a thick variegated stick needle sweater.
In the spring and summer, it is a light and thin woven cardigan, with white slacks or dresses, and the appearance of a well-educated female intellectual will come out.
Then plant a wave of grass for everyone
ZerothLab Fall/Winter Black Crash Line Semi-Height Collared Leggings
Reference price: 299CNY
Zeroth.Lab London's 100% Merino wool leggings look like they fit the tastes of female writers. The high neckline design, stackable, foldable, and hand-painted resin irregular round buckle on one side, will not be so dull to wear every day. The three-dimensional weaving technology is "plastic", which can gently and powerfully wrap the body and lining the entire human body with elegance.
Cinnamon OFFICIAL semi-turtleneck silhouette sleeve sweater
Reference price: 1,025CNY
In cinnamon OFFICIAL, there are always some more interesting items than the basics. Like this tan brown half-turtleneck sweater, with irregular sleeve details, it jumps out of the mediocre sense of everydayness, bringing modernity, fun at the same time, not too fashionable, the overall is still very feminine.
322WORKHOUSE dye-free cashmere knit cardigan
Reference price: 2,4991,769CNY
WORKHOUSE's polluting cashmere cardigans have been selling super well in our poster SHOP. According to the feedback of newspaper friends who have bought: "Expensive is a little expensive, but it is really a good thing, and you will know it when you wear it." The editor especially likes the stitching of the three strands of stranded strands, which looks nostalgic, with three tortoiseshell buttons, wow ~ the whole texture comes out! This is not about to be the Spring Festival holiday, like putting on this comfortable cashmere cardigan, hiding at home reading books and cooking dramas.
Finally, and most importantly —
"It's human nature to make judgments about other people and things, and usually the first impression is a person's appearance."
This is what fashion critic Vanessa Friedman talked about in an interview, what she wants to express is not a superficial "look", but when you want to tell others who you are, you need to have some iconic pieces that belong to you, or some kind of collocation habits, even hairstyles and fragrances.
For example, even people who haven't read Joan Didion's work tend to mention knitted skirts and large sunglasses when it comes to their impressions of her. This is an Elementonic.
Alexandra Carl changes shapes differently every time she shoots on the street, except for the pair of gold-rimmed glasses, like the "semi-permanent" she has set on her face, which is recognizable at a glance.
In addition to gold-rimmed glasses, Carl sometimes wears large, presence-enhancing earrings. The exaggerated accessories collide with the pedantic style of the glasses, but it highlights her personality. Isn't the so-called personality part of the self?
Also fond of exaggerated earrings is Miuccia Prada! They are gorgeous earrings like colored gemstones or chandeliers, sometimes with necklaces. The most famous female intellectual in the fashion industry is really not at all low-key in jewelry accessories.
If you want to be "elegant", silk scarves are a good choice, by adjusting the color, printing and collocation of silk scarves, let yourself look elegant and pragmatic, or fashionable and refined.
If you want to keep yourself from the trend, shouldn't you stay away from the crowds and modern information? I don't think so. Whether it is self or style, it is something that is gradually formed and established by standing in the crowd without being easily shaken. Only if you have seen enough, seen the essence and the dross, exercised the professional ability to distinguish between right and wrong, and finally absorbed and integrated into your own things, that is the real style.
Finally, I end this article with the end of Joan Didion's "On Self-Esteem": fleeing the crowd to find myself, but finding my heart empty.
Self-esteem, self, style, all of this.
Image source: Visual China \Network\Invasion and Deletion
Producer: Teresa Zhao
Edit: Yui
Design: Alare
Merchandise Assistant: Glad
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