Although Chanel has just experienced a wave of relentless price adjustments, its movements have remained as closely watched as ever. At Paris Fashion Week a few days ago, its fall/winter 23 ready-to-wear show has once again become one of the hottest shows.
Before the show began, many people guessed through the trailer that Chanel was going to "resurrect" another iconic element.
Because Virginie Vital is still seated, according to her past autumn and winter design habits, many people predict that she will add something new to the classic, such as a variety of materials or creative color schemes.
But in the end, the appearance of the big show seems to be different from what everyone expected.
Chanel 23FW ready-to-wear runway
The whole show is indeed a classic, there are black and white and twill soft... But there are no other ideas imagined, but the iconic element of camellia is carried through throughout.
From headwear and ready-to-wear details to bags.
Although different from what fans expected, the feedback so far is very positive, especially the camellia logo bags that replace the double C logo, in the words of well-known fashion critic Sarah Mower:
"I find them reassuring and familiar, and I love the softness and strength."
I myself am not very interested in designs that are too lady, because I always feel that the use of them is more restrictive for dressing. So if I brought the gentle camellia alone as an accessory, I might not be so easily moved, but this time Chanel is very cleverly using it as an embellishment design, and there is a hidden sense of feminine power.
In addition to the sharp patent leather, velvet and twill at the same time make the bag more seasonal, which is very suitable for the needs of girls with high requirements for dressing.
Camellia blooms in the harsh winter and is a tenacious shrub, but the flower itself is full of tenderness, so camellia is one of the few flowers with a subtle sense of contradiction. Anyone who knows Chanel knows that this is very similar to the warm but restrained temperament of Chanel founder Coco Chanel.
There are also several small bags directly designed in the shape of camellias on the show that also have a unique sense of shape, with staggered and orderly blooming petals, with a design state between warmth and tenderness.
Especially the black bouquet has a Chanel-style handsomeness. Camellia was originally not black, so when it appeared in this color scheme, we saw a more everyday practicality.
and a classic clamshell bag embroidered with camellia flowers, visually using sequins and beaded materials, which looks very beautiful and delicate. Knowledgeable people know that they are regular customers of the Chanel haute couture collection.
As the three representative elements of Chanel that go hand in hand with the "double C logo" and "leather chain", camellia is used in a wider range of categories. Makeup, perfume ▼
Bags, shoes ▼
Writing here, many people may ask: Why does Chanel love camellias? Aren't other categories working?
Not really. At this time, it may be necessary to first understand the particularity of the camellia variety in the fashion circle. Originating in East Asia, it was accidentally brought to England in the 18th century, and the name camellia soon spread throughout Europe because of the purity and beauty of the flowers.
Empress Josephine, the "godmother of medieval fashion", began to grow camellias in her garden, which took on aristocratic fashion. In Europe it is rare and expensive, so its appearance is almost synonymous with "noble" and "luxurious". At this time, looking back at analyzing the love of the Chanel brand for it, is it a little "heroic pity"?
In addition to Empress Josephine, Paris fashion critic Charles Lautour-Mézeray also pioneered the new fashion of camellias, setting off a trend of wearing camellias on suit lapels, and people affectionately called him "the gentleman of camellias".
But not all gentlemen can have camellia freedom, and in order to follow the trend, they simply replaced it with a silk scarf bow.
The inspiration for the camellia + bow was later paid a full tribute to Lafayette in 1992, and the beautiful "camellias" bloomed confidently on the Chanel runway.
Before unifying the aesthetics of the aristocracy and gentlemen, camellias were synonymous with purity and nobility, and it was not until the appearance of the "La Traviata" in Alexandre Dumas's pen that the flower took on a rebellious tone. And everyone who understands it knows that Coco Chanel's own experience and personality are somewhat similar to those of La Traviata.
Seeing this Chanel's preference for camellias, and the reasons why camellias and Chanel can achieve each other, it may be self-evident.
In my opinion, the original image of the camellia is too tender and conservative, just like its flower language "pure love", but after all, it is a flower, so the use of fashion items cannot be too uninhibited, it is best to be a subtle state in between.
And this subtle scale can probably only be understood by designers who have both romantic and rebellious blood flowing in their bones. Karl Lagerfeld, a representative of such designers, and his successor, Virginie Viard, certainly count as one. Driven by the camellia's own temperament and the designer's personal style, they are very good at grasping the scale between loose and tight.
For example, in the picture above, Virginie Viard's cool leather collar and classic houndstooth tweed jacket are "planted" with gentle and pure camellias, which are just the right embellishments, not too conspicuous.
It completely captures the unique tone of the camellia: adding a little candidness and unruliness to the tenderness. And this design aesthetic is especially applicable to the knitwear and dresses that are essential for autumn and winter wardrobes.
This collision of contradictions is also reflected in the new bags, such as the two patent leather camellia logo flap bags at the beginning, the handsome of patent leather and the softness of the flowers have a rigid and soft beauty; Another example is the classic double C logo clamshell bag with the same design idea, the small size makes the patent leather area just right, and the design of the handle increases practicality, which is very in line with the bag habits of most girls.
But Chanel's products are never so popular because of an iconic element, but because of the basics – classic and practical enough. Why can several of its classic bags rise in price unscrupulously and madly, isn't it just that everyone will pay for "practical"?
So, if you want to buy a Chanel bag that can last for many years, then you can't go wrong with classic clamshell bags, such as the new season that looks more retro ▼
And the treatment of the old leather really has the feeling of dreaming back to the peak Chanel period of Lafayette ▼
Chanel's camellia first appeared in the media when it adorned a dress on the cover of the American edition of Vogue magazine in May 1924, exactly 100 years old this year. A year earlier than the appearance of the double C logo, it can be called the core design element of Chanel. Throughout the entire fashion circle, there are only a few brands with classic elements that are more than a century old, so who does not buy them?
Well, that's it for the Camellia and Chanel story today. The fall/winter 2023 show items introduced today will probably be available around September this year, and if you have a bag or ready-to-wear that you fancy, then you can start saving money from now on~
This article is edited by Miss Wendy
Art Editor: Xiaoyu