Chanel, Gucci, Givenchy, Dior, Calvin Klein...
They are synonymous with luxury.
When it comes to the Halston brand, many people may be very unfamiliar.
But in the 1960s and 1980s, the haute couture brand swept the United States and became synonymous with American luxury.
Founder Roy Halston Frowick (Roy Houston Frowick), the first world-renowned fashion designer in the United States.
Recently, Netflix launched a 5-episode miniseries that outlined the amazing and ups and downs of the genius designer's life.
Let's walk into the glorious fashion of the United States in the last century——
Houston
Halston
Known as the "Soul of New York" in the 70s, Houston was a leading figure and fashion icon who led the American fashion industry.
He used his eponymous brand to build a fashion empire that symbolized luxury, sex, status and fame, and defined the era in which he lived.
Huston was the embodiment of New York in the 1970s.
His history of the New York Imperial Capital, gorgeous and depraved, his genius design, his ups and downs in business, and the creation of the fashion classic Halston brand, grand and short-lived brilliance.
This gorgeous fashion miniseries pulls the audience into an infinitely fascinated mood, and the paper drunken gold fans are dazzling.
Such a Houston, who will play?
He is the decadent and rebellious teenager in "Guess the Train";
He is the wild and unruly rock singer in Velvet Goldmine;
He is also the obsessive talent in "Moulin Rouge".
In this way, he could not be more suitable.
It's Scottish actor Ivan McGregor.
Plus the excellent Costume Road:
Big back, big sunglasses, a high-necked black sweater, always holding a cigarette in hand, always surrounded by groups of beautiful women. The designer's confident and arrogant posture, from the hair to the toes, is in full swing.
Director Daniel Minaghan, American Crime Story, Newsroom, House of Cards... These high-scoring dramas are his glorious resumes.
Gold medal screenwriter Ryan Murphy is the creator of many popular dramas such as "American Horror Story", "Posture", "Plastic Surgery Room" and so on.
The two of them often work together.
Like Houston, Ryan Murphy, who is from Indiana, said: "He has always been a big man in my heart— a representative of humble origins but extraordinary achievements. I've always been touched by him. ”
"Houston" can be described as a high-profile and high-quality production, and they have made this legendary designer, who is almost forgotten today, finally return to the world.
Born in 1932, Huston was originally a female hat designer and became internationally famous for wearing a simple women's hat by her husband at her husband's presidential inauguration in 1961.
In 1968, he created his eponymous brand, which initially garnered financial support.
What really made Houston gain a foothold and establish himself in the fashion industry was the Battle of the 1973 Versailles Fashion Show: 5 American designers vs 5 French designers.
Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint-Laurent, Emanuel Weingaro, then Dior Creative Director Mark Boon, Anne Klein, Oscar De la L'Orenta and other design masters were among them.
At first, Houston did not want to participate in the Battle of Versailles.
The sensitive personality of the artist makes him dare not face up to the public's vision of himself, dare not be criticized, and dare not be frustrated.
After repeated invitations from The American fashion industry star Eleanor Lambert, he decided to play and invited his close friend Lisa Minnelli to perform at the Palace of Versailles.
Lisa Minnelli is also a legendary actress, a Grand Slam winner of four Awards in american entertainment, Tony, Emmy, Grammy, and Academy Awards.
She was the most important friend of Houston's life, and the two made each other successful. It is played by American actor Krista Rodriguez.
But when he first arrived at Versailles, everything was not what he thought.
Compared to the more famous designers of the time, his treatment was very poor.
Leaky room, and the smell of rat urine.
The size of the curtain has been rectified, the model dress has not arrived, and 5 more designs have been added...
Time is tight, and troubles continue.
Under the pressure, he was extremely uneasy.
Houston went to theorize, but the other side made it clear to him that this was the reality at the moment.
The fierce Lambert, who is very confident in Houston's ability to shape beauty, also loves him deeply and is responsible.
Huston, who was "awakened", concentrated on the big show.
When he saw the fan of the assistant fan, the inspiration came instantly, and the fan-shaped feathers combined perfectly with the long skirt with the oblique cut back.
Houston used extraordinary inspiration to create a number of classic designs that amazed the audience and shined.
This show, unprecedented, led the new trend of American fashion, making Houston one of the founders of contemporary Fashion in the United States.
Houston brings minimalist yet sophisticated, charming and comfortable designs into fashion. He lived so happily that his first and last names were left behind, and for the sake of minimalist elegance, he removed all the burdens that were not smooth enough.
Houston with his team in Beijing, China, in the 1980s
Using elastic fabrics, cashmere wool, suede jumpsuits, shirt skirts and kaftans, he has left a strong mark on the history of world fashion.
He was the first to use a variety of models, plus-size female models, black models, and discovered a group of minority supermodel pioneers.
The combination with Norton Simon opened up Houston's fashion territory and truly established a fashion empire belonging to Houston.
Houston's muse Elsa Berretti, who was first his model, had a perfect look and figure. It is played by Rebecca Dayan.
She also has an extraordinary gift for design, having designed accessories and perfume bottles for Houston.
Huston loved her designs and appreciated her talent.
But the perfume bottle was rejected by Norton Simon executives. Because the bottle body is not straight, it will seriously affect production.
Houston insisted on using the perfume bottle, believing that only it could represent Halston, and did not hesitate to mass-produce it at his own expense of $50,000.
It turns out that Houston was born with a fashion sense of smell.
Huston, along with Elsa, created a myth about the sales of Halston perfumes, which was a sensation. Customers like perfume bottles even more than the perfume itself.
Famous ladies, big financiers, and a steady stream of projects, cooperation, and capital have poured in.
The reason why Houston is a genius designer is reflected in his keen grasp of fashion, the shaping of beauty, and his design talent can be used freely in different fields and industries, such as perfumes, necklaces, home... Even dance troupe costumes.
Huston was also a fire-stealer of fashion democratization. His dream was to provide clothing for every American.
His designs also include the Girl Scouts of America, Branif International Airlines, the 1976 U.S. Olympic Team, the New York Police Department, and his Waterloo, department store chain Jesse Penny.
But he was unable to survive the gap between business and fashion, and when the company focused only on profit lines such as perfumes and affordable collections, his business and artistic choices were constrained.
At the same time, Studio54's life made him addicted to drugs, and his emotions became more and more out of control.
New York, bringing together all the stars and luxury of America.
Studio54 is the epitome of New York's Ukiyo-Monds.
It is known as the fashion vane of New York, and the city's hipsters are partying all night long.
Look at who the people who are here, and you'll know why.
Michael Jackson, Andy Warhol, Elizabeth Taylor, The Rolling Stones, Sex Pistols, David Bowie, Woody Allen, Tom Ford, Madonna...
Houston was frequent, staying up all night, meeting celebrities, and obsessed with drugs and sex.
Through the style of Studio 54, the show recreates the extravagant debauchery of New York's social circle in the 1970s.
This new York, this kind of madness, is dazzling.
Even ordinary people, just by looking at the images, would like to get up and pour a glass of champagne.
Not to mention the emotional people who are really in it.
People are born with desires, but desires need to be controlled, and drunken fans will make desires out of control and lose themselves.
Houston's fashion empire eventually collapsed due to commercial errors, and he also lost his name.
He died of AIDS in 1990 at the age of 57.
His aesthetic influenced a generation, including Tom Ford and Michael Coles. Tom Ford has said that Houston was the inspiration for his revival of Gucci in the 1990s.
The Halston brand, which created the myth in the past, is now rarely asked.
His fashion empire is like another Camelot that has crossed history.
Don't forget, the extreme of the short, the glory.