Historically, almost all geniuses have been accompanied by great controversy.
On the one hand, they are gifted and brilliant.
On the other hand, they are "weird cafes" who are difficult to integrate into the mainstream, and they are criticized.
And biopics based on such characters have produced many well-known masterpieces.
For example, "Bohemian Rhapsody", which tells the life of legendary singer Freddie Mercury.
For example, "Simulation Game", which is an adaptation of the deeds of genius mathematician Alan Turing.
Another example is "The Social Network", which focuses on the entrepreneurial experience of IT wizard Mark Zuckerberg, and so on.
Recently, another work of this genre has been broadcast.
The prototype is material enough, the starring role is big enough, the scale is amazing enough, and the story is wonderful enough.
It's well worth a look -
Houston
Halston
He was the first world-renowned fashion designer in the United States.
He was the deserving party king of the disco era.
He was the godfather of fashion, Tom Ford, the idol he chased all his life.
He's a legend at the top of the industry—
Houston.
Huston live photo
Why is such a big person not as famous as Dior, Givenchy, and Chanel today?
Because the name also represents pleasure and depravity.
After quickly reaching the top of the mountain, he immediately fell to the bottom of the valley and lost himself in the sound and color of dogs and horses.
In the end, even his brand reputation was destroyed.
What happened to this legend?
Netflix's latest five-episode miniseries "Houston" is to unveil this hidden past for us.
This drama can be described as painstaking in production.
Relying on the strong strength of Netflix, from the clothes to the scene, it has perfectly restored that gorgeous era.
The lines are smooth, the tones are elegant, the details are exquisite, and the composition is exquisite.
Just one frame, like a high-definition photo of a fashion magazine.
In order to create a unique and complex character of Houston, the crew invited a british million fans -
Ivan McGregor.
He became famous very early, and he is one of the few male gods who has not been slashed by the "pig killing knife" of the years.
Even if he is over 50 years old, his style will not diminish that year.
I believe that everyone still remembers his classic screen images.
Whether it's the grumpy Scottish leper in "Guess the Train".
"Guess the Train"
He is also the wild and uninhibited rock star in "Velvet Goldmine".
Velvet Gold Mine
Or the obsessive prodigal son in "Moulin Rouge" and "Big Fish".
The Moulin Rouge
Ivan is always able to maintain elegance while attaching a charming "evil atmosphere".
This contradiction in temperament is a perfect match for Houston in the play.
The looks are also very matched
Genius is on the left, madman is on the right.
"Genius" and "madman" are two crucial labels for knowing Houston.
Let's take a look at what kind of genius this is.
Huston came from an mediocre background, and was not a fashion design class.
At first, it was only a simple design of women's hats, which had little to do with fashion.
The lack of insider resources is a fatal weakness for a fashion designer.
But Huston was very confident in his unusual talent.
He started a design firm of the same name.
On the one hand, it directly positions the high-end and enhances the brand grade.
He used his eloquence and personal charm to make friends with a large number of Hollywood stars and socialites.
Start by bragging about yourself and be impressed.
Then it is customized for them to show their true talents and practical learning.
Directly open the situation with your own brand and receive the attention of the upper class.
On the other hand, taking into account the public, pay attention to the practicality of clothing.
For example, in the play, he noticed the problem that the traditional suede (suede) could not withstand the rain.
Boldly using a new type of synthetic material, he designed a trench coat called "Super Suede".
It's simple and stylish, and it's easy to wear and durable, it's the best of both worlds.
He used the celebrity effect to recommend it to a celebrity, saying:
"It can be worn to eat, or it can be worn to send children to school."
Soon, this coat became a hit at the time.
Walking down the street, looking around, it's all shirt-bumping.
In today's parlance, it's called a "must-have item for fashionistas."
Houston, on the other hand, became the hottest fashion superstar in the United States in an instant.
The above can already be seen that Huston's super public relations ability and keen fashion tentacles.
But his talent is much more than that.
There is a key highlight in the whole play - the Battle of Versailles.
It was the most glorious moment of Houston's entire career.
In 1973, in order to raise funds for the renovation of the Palace of Versailles, a grand fashion show was held here.
The United States and France each found 5 top designers to show their works together.
The two sides are superficially harmonious and angry, saying that they are promoting exchanges.
But everyone knows very well in their hearts —
It's a showdown of fashion designers.
And in the eyes of others, this is a completely one-sided game.
Because of the French lineup, it can be called the golden generation.
Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Saint Laurent, Dior...
These names are famous to this day, and they were already thunderous at the time.
In contrast, the United States is much weaker.
Fortunately, there is also Houston.
In this game, in order to seek stability, most of the designers' presentations are slightly conservative.
But Houston wanted to take the sword to the side.
Using the insufficient materials at hand, he designed and cut on the spot, and completed a design of a stunning four-seater -
A skirt with no top and only a lupine to cover it.
Don't say that at the time, even now it seems that it is dare to be the first, amazing.
With Houston's outstanding performance, the United States beat France.
After the Battle of Versailles, Houston steadily entered the ranks of fashion masters.
The brand he founded also sailed to the fashion empire.
Perfumes, bags, sunglasses, even sofas, carpets...
As early as 50 years ago, Houston had already played the concept of "crossover" between the legs.
As long as it is something that can be used in life, he can brand it with his own brand and design it for you.
Wealth and status, rising tides.
In the United States at that time, Houston became a household name.
However, just because he is a household name does not mean that people really know him.
The real him is by no means as gentle as he seems.
The "madman" side is always with you.
First, he is extremely paranoid about his work.
High emotional intelligence, this is called perfectionist.
Low emotional intelligence, this is a big bastard with a very high self-esteem.
He is irritable and very emotional, and what he is best at is to count others without mercy.
As long as it is a design that he can't see, it is a lump of X.
For the control of the company, it is natural to be arbitrary.
I can't listen to a little advice, like a tyrant.
Although I have made many friends, very few of them are really pushy.
All this laid the groundwork for his future rebellion.
Second, there is no economic restraint.
Commercial success has brought about a leap in material conditions.
Houston, who was originally constrained by funds everywhere, directly transformed into a money-burning machine.
Be sure to take the extended limousine when you go out.
The seaside villa bought it directly after one look.
Meals are only served in high-end restaurants.
Even the test cloth used in daily design requires expensive high-grade satin.
I don't know what open source and thrift are.
This laid the groundwork for the company's future financial problems.
Finally, and worst of all, he has lived a decadent and decadent life for a long time.
Although the "Houston" brand is a popular fried chicken in mainstream society.
But Huston was actually very marginal.
He comes from an ordinary background and is also an LGBT member.
This determines that he will never really integrate into the circle of celebrities.
Introduced by his live-in partner Victor, Houston fell in love with the niche disco culture.
Victor
He frequented Club 54, one of New York's most famous nightclubs of the 1970s.
In this unrestrained place, let go of yourself and sing night and night.
He was also completely addicted to cocaine and began a life of indulgence.
On the surface, he is a fashion darling with unlimited scenery, but behind the scenes, he is an out-and-out addict.
This once again set the stage for Houston's tragic end.
In the struggle between genius and madman, the genius attribute is defeated.
He began to be frequently absent from work, crazy drug use and alcoholism, and the design work was completely left behind.
Coupled with the impact of emerging companies, the "Houston" brand has collapsed.
Under the influence of drug addiction, Huston himself became more irritable than before, and clashed with almost everyone around him.
He destroyed himself with his own hands, and he also destroyed this fashion empire.
The last straw that crushed the camel appeared—
He was diagnosed with AIDS.
His ending, at a glance, reached the end.
As a biographical film, "Houston" is very eye-catching.
This drama chooses the most representative nodes in Houston's life, from a blockbuster to self-abandonment, vividly telling his life of ups and downs.
Of course, Ivan's performance also added a lot to the whole play.
Although in the beginning, Ivan, who is already 50 years old, needs to play Houston in his early 30s.
But he did a good job.
He used his own experience to make up for the age gap, and performed the spirit of youth.
After that, it is getting better.
When mourning and suffering, sensitive, fragile, vulnerable.
When angry and cursing, it is full of explosive power and domineering.
These all fully demonstrate the character's two-sided personality.
Moreover, Ivan also paid great attention to restoring the details of the characters' movements.
One of Houston's most iconic things is that the smoke doesn't leave your hand.
In the play, we can also see Ivan teaching everyone how to smoke gracefully in a hundred ways.
Not to mention some large-scale dramas.
Although he became famous, The British fans "went to the sea" again in the play.
One has to admire his dedication.
Houston's magnificent and abrupt life is enough to make everyone in front of the screen sigh.
But when brushing the drama, Uncle Yu repeatedly pondered a question:
Whose fault is this tragedy?
From an early age, Huston showed a talent for costume design.
But his father thought that this would only cause the child to become a "mother", and repeatedly scolded and insulted him.
This left Houston in the shadows from an early age, and his psychological endurance was extremely poor.
Desperately trying to prove themselves, but it is difficult to fill the emotional gap.
Gradually became a lonely and arrogant madman.
Character defects caused by the original family are of course an important internal factor.
But more, on the outside.
We can see the circumstances of the times, the dilemmas that Haveston caused.
First, Huston's identity has always been not accepted by the mainstream.
Especially in the fashion industry, this industry is inseparable from decency and nobility, and everything can only be avoided.
He can only pretend in front of people, and crazy catharsis after people.
Such a contradictory situation will naturally lead to confusion about identity.
Second, Huston could not resist the modernization of the fashion industry.
At that time, large-scale brand mergers and acquisitions and industrial transformation swept the entire fashion industry.
Countless luxury brands, from a well-designed and unique handmade product, have been transformed into uniform FMCG items.
The era of traditional craftsmen obsessed with fine products is over.
What was ushered in was a frenzy of brutal expansion and consumption-oriented capitalism.
Design no longer requires maintaining personality and artistic innovation, but is simple and rough, conforming to the market.
And Houston, too, has fallen victim to this wave.
In the beginning, he also chose to cooperate with large companies early.
Because only the industrialized assembly line is supported, the brand is likely to enter thousands of households.
But then he discovered that there were too many limitations.
Capitalists always demand that Hust continue to introduce explosive products in the sinking market.
They don't understand fashion at all, they don't respect design, they just think about how to maximize profits.
For example, there is a paragraph in the play where the capital hopes that he will launch the Holster brand jeans.
This made Houston very resistant.
He thinks the outfit doesn't fit in with his brand's tonality at all.
However, in the face of the big era, individuals can not get rid of the fate of being ruthlessly crushed.
Under the coercion of capital, he finally had to accept reality.
For such a genius designer, losing the freedom to design is the greatest sorrow.
Under the pressure of many parties, Houst chose to escape and escape into the endless nothingness.
He was even kicked out of the game by capital in the end, losing the right to use his name.
Because the capital feels that he suffers from AIDS, he will only destroy the brand image...
But what is the "Houston" that left Houston?
This fashion empire inevitably came to an end.
But fortunately, after experiencing loss, you will suddenly wake up.
In the few days left, Huston threw himself back into the design work he loved.
A costume was designed for the famous dancer Martha Graham.
The success of the work has led a crowd of poisonous critics to shout perfection.
Getting rid of the worldly troubles, Houston returned to the original intention of art at the end of his life.
Fashion brands, talented designers, business wizards, artists, king of nightclubs, LGBT, AIDS, addicts: ......
A series of labels have made Houston a controversial figure to this day.
Among the geniuses who have left a name in history, he is undoubtedly a loser.
Because he and his brand have long been forgotten in today's fashion circle.
This is ironic.
But it is precisely because of this that it makes more sense to discover his story.
The prosperity is over, and everything is like a passing cloud.
What can truly redeem oneself and satisfy one's heart is not the hustle and bustle of pleasure and endless wealth.
Only, that simple, pure love.
merely.
When the wood is about to fall, it is dying of old age.
When you taste the hundreds of times of life and look back at the past years.
This truth, however, can only be realized in frustration.