Evil fate is definitely evil fate!
Has everyone watched disney's latest live-action movie "Black and White Witch Kuila"? Is it the female devil in "101 Loyal Dog" when I was a child, I didn't expect that after this flop live-action movie, I was successfully whitewashed?
It is estimated that many people's impression is still stuck in the impression of the arrogant, mean and crazy female tycoon, racking their brains to make the spotted dog fur into a coat, and its behavior is heinous!
In 2021, Kuila transformed into a shuangwen heroine who avenged her mother and double business online!
Set in London during the punk rock revolution of the 1970s, the story tells the story of how a young con artist named Estella becomes a cyrah who is crazy, fashionable and vindictive.
Played by Stone Sister Emma Stone, she has loved fashion since she was a child, and she is determined to make herself famous with her own designs.
One day, Estella's taste for fashion attracted Baroness Von Hermann, played by Emma Thompson, who was a well-known bigwig in the fashion world.
He thought that he would be able to have a smooth career with his appreciation, but he accidentally discovered that the Baroness was actually the murderer of his loved ones.
The most bloody thing is that the Baroness is still Estella's biological mother, and this series of events has led Estella to embrace her evil side, becoming a crazy, fashionable and vengeful Kuira, and tearing up with her biological mother, the Baroness.
This fashion-themed film has been carefully prepared in terms of costumes, props, and backgrounds, and the degree of luxury of its costumes makes people clap their hands.
Set against the backdrop of the 1970s, the rivalry in the fashion world and its avant-garde and hip attitude in London are reflected in this film.
The film's costume designer, Jenny Beavan, who has won two Oscars for Best Costume Design, sees Kuila's fashion as a weapon to shield the Baroness and challenge tradition.
This time, she designed a total of 277 costumes for the starring role, 47 sets of stone sisters, and 33 sets of Chinese costumes for the baroness, which is also a big production.
It is said that Jenny also purchased many antique works from the Portobello Market in London and the large antique exhibition in Brooklyn, New York, respectively, to try on Emma Stone, and remodeled the suitable ones and finally presented them in the film.
With such a degree of care, it is no wonder that it can be called a new "fashion movie" that has been deserved by netizens for several years, and how fashionable the movie is, we continue to look down.
Behind the 47 sets of Looks staged in turn
How did Kuila get revenge with fashion?
The film is set in London in the 1970s, when the "punk revolution" prevailed, and Kuila, who was born with half black and half white hair, was born with a punk temperament.
When Kuira was in school, she changed her school uniform to wear, graffiti, rivets, tears can not be less, it can be said that Kuila has had a superior fashion talent since she was a child.
So later, even if she lived a life of "pit and abduction", she also sewed her "cheating equipment" with a needle and a thread, and the ever-changing fashionable shapes were overwhelmed.
Like the outfit when stealing a wallet on the bus, a low-key black and white plaid coat with a Versace turban wrapped around the head, but then again, such a fashionable and eye-catching girl appears, passers-by can't help but look at it twice.
Pretending to be a "Middle Eastern noblewoman" when entering and leaving high-end venues, printed long skirts + silk scarves, and carrying a Louis Vuitton Capucines handbag in her hand, her superb "transvesthecy" has always been so seamless.
Later, With the help of her friends, Kuira successfully entered the hippest London Liberty mall of her dreams, although she only swept the toilets and took out the garbage in the mall.
But Kuila is still happy, fantasizing about one day punching a punch in Liberty Mall, a century-old department store on Regent Street, founded in 1875, which in reality is also a fashion landmark in London, bringing together a variety of luxury brands.
After Kuira joined the company, she always did not like the design in the window, so after getting drunk one day, she sneaked into the window and made a drastic transformation.
This change did not matter, but it was unexpectedly favored by the most influential designer baroness at that time, and from then on, she went to the "road of evil fate".
And this newspaper skirt that appears in the window is also the first eye-catching dress design in the movie, adding exaggerated and irregular details on the basis of retaining the traditional British dress, which has the feeling of Vivien Westwood's autumn and winter 1995 dress, and also swears the rebellious character embodied in Kuila.
Window newspaper skirt
The gorgeous dress that appeared next was Kuira's first revenge at the baroness's ball, staged the "play with fire" drama suit, the baroness set the dress code that day was black and white, Kuila first wore a white cloak and a mask, a large fire burned the cloak, in front of everyone, this is undoubtedly a provocation to the baroness.
The scene of the burning cloak seems to be a tribute to Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 1998 collection, which is inspired by Joan of Arc and the model in a red dress presents a classic performance of being burned at the stake of hell on stage.
Burning red book tree skirt
Kuila's flammable white cloak was also conceived by accident by eye of Alexander McQueen's religious-style cloak, according to stylists.
The red dress is even more impressive, and in the trailer this red dress is impressive enough, in the movie this dress was originally a couture dress made by the baroness in the 1950s, and was found by Kuila in the medieval store after the new transformation.
Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2009
In fact, this skirt was inspired by Charles James's "tree skirt" for Mrs. Ronald Tree in 1955. The original dress, which features Charles James's distinctive pleats, was the first to pioneer the pleated design of the dress, and this "tree skirt" was housed in the V&A Museum in London and exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York during the Met Gala.
Charles James may be unfamiliar to many, but he is indeed a fashion genius who can be called "America's first true fashion designer", inventing the zipper after the evening dress, the cupless Bra and the puffer fish silhouette coat, and even Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel are very fond of wearing the skirts he designs.
PAST petal skirt
Next, Kuila increased the vengeance, she not only locked the baroness in the car but also stepped on the roof of her car, covered the baroness in the car with the hem of the skirt, arrogantly, and pulled down a banner with a big "PAST", declaring to the world that the baroness is outdated, and the old lady is the queen who leads the fashion!
This petal skirt is also quite heavy,000 pieces of hem, which are all sewn by hand by the designer's students. The skirt alone is 12 meters long, and after reading it, there are two words: shock!
Of course, this petal-filled skirt also has the shadow of Alexander McQueen's famous Oyster Dress in the spring/summer of 2003.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2003
The bodice is paired with a Napoleonic military uniform with a large number of chains and pins on the chest and two carriage models on the shoulders, this jacket is the medieval style of the British punk brand Body Map, and the Napoleonic black and gold military uniform of Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 1996 Dante collection is also similar.
This outfit is not only stunning, but Kuira's makeup and hair are also in place, black and white hair is woven into a crown, the momentum is "king", and the stage-style makeup full of oil paint seems to be a tribute to John Galliano's previous runway.
Many of Kuila's outfits are heavily colored with John Galliano, like this "waste into treasure" newspaper mop dress, which Sister Stone says is her favorite set of so many chinese clothes.
"Turning waste into treasure" newspaper group
The way this set of shapes appeared was simply amazing, Kuila's friends drove a garbage truck to the red carpet, and the garbage truck poured out a flower skirt composed of garbage, which was the dress that the Baroness had made, And Kuila spliced these skirts into a big tail, and carefully read the front page of the newspaper with her own name and photo clippings, which was simply a show of power on the Baroness's "garbage dump"!
Inspired by John Galliano's Dior, the dress is full of decadence and madness in the extremely romantic Rococo style, and Recycle's philosophy is a tribute to Vivienne Westwood, who has always been committed to the cause of environmental protection.
Christian Dior Spring 2006 Couture
Of course, the most classic of the pirate grandpa is the newspaper print, the newspaper print is printed with John Galliano's name and photos, and Kuila's "garbage newspaper skirt" is also full of her own name, repeating the legendary classic of the pirate master.
Christian Dior Fall 2000
There is also a big story behind the stylist's design of this dress, specially going to the Portobello Road Market flea market in London and the vintage fair in Los Angeles to pick out 10 suitcases of clothes and stitching them together with real antique clothes.
Although secretly carrying out revenge plans, don't forget that Kuila is actually a worker, she lurks in the baroness's design studio as Estella, and this gold silk dress sewn by this fashion genius is the climax of this movie!
Golden cicada shell skirt
She sewed a gold silk skirt out of gilded bug pupae, ready to ruin the release date of the baroness's new series, waiting for the baroness to be thousands of moths to break out of the shell and destroy her entire new series.
Inspired by Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer 2010 collection, which was also Alexander McQueen's own last season, the architectural silhouette and beaded embroidery is an absolute highlight of fashion history.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2010
After being completely blackened, she held a rebellious rock show, which was simply the Vivienne Westwood show scene, rivets, holes, leather, which was the punk culture defined by the punk godmother, and it was also a punk movement that she vigorously set off.
The spirit of rock 'n' roll is deeply engraved in Kuila's bones, and the leather element also occupies an important place in her style, this set of large padded shoulder leather jackets is put on, the inner taste is instantly there, the lower body is paired with sequined leggings, and the dark makeup with the word "The Future" on the face is also a tribute to the West Empress.
Punk rebel suit
"The Future" is no doubt a declaration to people that Kuila is the future of fashion, and outside the show, it is the album cover font from the Sex Pistol sex pistol band Never Mind The Bollocks.
The wife of Sex Pistols member Malcolm Mclaren is Vivienne Westwood, the Queen of the West, who has long been synonymous with the rebellion and freedom of that era, and kuyla's pursuit of Kuila – an anti-traditional, counter-mainstream rebellious spirit.
This set echoes Disney's original "101 Loyal Dogs", And Kuila also wears a black and white spotted dog coat in this movie, but this time it is not made of real dogs, and the designer uses velvet-like materials to dye black and white spots to create a texture of fur. Black and white collision, asymmetrical design, is also the signature style of the Western Empress.
At the climax of the film's final scene, Kuila walks down the stairs wearing a long, sleek V-neck black dress and a square-shouldered cape with chain trims.
It is worth mentioning that the surrounding guests are dressed up like Kuila, which is the dress code provided by Kuira pretending to be a baroness before the event, and the countless scenes of Kuila getting together are too spectacular, and costume designer Jenny Beavan and the team undoubtedly created a miracle, making hundreds of extras wear the same outfit, which is also a feat.
In the end, the baroness exposed her nature and got the evil results she deserved, and Kuila won the victory, reappearing in a spontaneous black-and-white patchwork suit and leather high heels, inheriting the family property, becoming the new hostess of the castle, sharp and very tense.
Old Money old-school elegant female demon head
How to pick up The New Fashion of Kuila?
In this movie, there is another more villainous character than the villain, she is the Baroness, played by Oscar actress Emma Thompson, I have to say that the Baroness is really a person who can feel that she is a person in the mixed fashion circle as soon as she appears.
All the costumes are very Drapa, and the whole body exudes a typical "Old Money" style, and since then, the phrase "sister is the queen" has officially had a face.
The stylist said that when designing clothes for the baroness, he would deliberately make her look "outdated", cat-eye glasses, wrap-around turbans... Let her exude that charming old-school elegance all over her body.
In the film, the Baroness wore a total of 33 outfits, mainly referring to the classic fashion of the 1950s and 1970s.
A line coat, long skirt
The simple lines and the design of the waist, in her body, you can always see the shadow of an old fashion house like Dior.
Dior's Fall/Winter 1996 couture collection
Costume designer Jenny Beavan said that the Baroness's fashion was greatly influenced by Dior, and the role also represented the old-school designers' insistence on the elegant era.
There is a scene in the movie where the baroness is reinventing the A line, which also ushers in the peak of her career.
Here is the bridge section that pays tribute to Christian Dior, the full name of the A line is A line, tracing back to the source, the A line design is actually a fashion style created by the design master Christian Dior in 1955.
Since the mid-1940s, new clothing styles have emerged, and the introduction of A line design has undoubtedly awakened people's new understanding of women's curvy beauty, and has also made a revolutionary contribution to the cutting of modern clothing.
On the basis of this, the designer deliberately added an exaggerated collar shape, and a sculpture-like silhouette of the clothing, and at the same time, it also blessed the image of the baroness who was mean, sharp and difficult to get along with.
In the movie, there are many such exaggerated costumes, and the long skirt dress with a large collar is elegant and modern, and is endowed with a noble and mysterious metallic color system, which looks more fashionable and avant-garde, and the momentum is compelling.
Dior 1950s
There is also this "glowing" asymmetrical sculptural dress on the baroness, which is based on Balenciaga from 1960, wearing it on the body, quite a bit of a magical female demon.
Sculptural dress
Balenciaga 1960s
Remember when the Baroness first opened a fashion show in the movie, the gorgeous Rococo style dress made people unable to take their eyes off it, and the exaggerated styling inspiration was taken from the stunning maria antoinette.
Rococo wind long skirt
The Queen of The Dead, 1938
In the fashion world, Marie Antoinette is often used as an object of inspiration for tribute, remembering that Moschino's AW20 collection performed a themed party about drama and humor, with cake skirts, exaggerated headdresses, and Rococo princesses coming out from behind the curtain.
Of course, the baroness's hairstyle is not always so casual, and in daily life, the baroness's favorite is the hair type, such as the classic turban style of the old-school superstar Joan Crawford, which is used by the baroness.
Baotou shape
When not wrapping her head, the baroness's coiled hair style can also be described as exquisite to the hair, and the soaring hairstyle of the high song adds more dramatic color to the movie, more like a tribute to the idol of the times Audrey Hepburn.
The pearless necklace around the neck also adds to the baroness's noble and luxurious aura, and when participating in major occasions, the baroness always has to pick out one or two.
DE BEERS specially launched the cooperation series with Disney, the light of the Arpeggia series, which radiates brilliance on the big screen, and the layout is also in place!
In addition to paying tribute to the style of clothing, the Baroness's design studio is also a bit familiar.
Production designer Fiona Crombie referenced Dior's archival fragments, some of the color plates and fabric arrangements, derived from Dior's photographs in the 1950s, and the design of the house's color scheme, which is also somewhat similar to the Grand Palais in Paris.
Putting aside the plot, I have to say that the heavy costume interpretation of "Black and White Witch Kuila" is still very exciting, many details of the design are worth discovering and unlocking, it is definitely an immersive fashion feast, after watching, which set of Look is the top of it?
Editor-in-charge: Wang Wenshou
Assistant: Maymay