"Eight Great Residences"
It is a number of old Beijing
"Ju" in the restaurant of the generations
The eight most famous
Generally believed to be
Fuxingju, Wanxingju, Tongxingju
Dongxingju, Wanfuju, Guangheju
Tongheju, Casserole Ju
Each of these eight restaurants has its own strengths
It enriched the variety of food in Beijing at that time
Today, except for some that are still open
Most of it is history
Some are not even reliable
Describes the record
It's a pity
In the last issue, we learned
In the old Beijing "eight residences"
Fuxingju, Wanxingju and Guangheju
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
Tongheju and Casserole
Cohabitation
Tongheju is the name of an old restaurant in Beijing. It first appeared in 1822.
That year, the first photograph appeared in the world, and for technical reasons, the photograph did not remain. However, the taste of Tongheju, which was born that year, was recorded by the chefs and diners.
Most of the old restaurants in Beijing are Lu cuisine. Tongheju is also a local Lu restaurant. However, unlike other Lu restaurants, the first generation of chefs from Tongheju came from Fushan District, Yantai City, Shandong Province, which was called Fushan County.
Fukuyama cuisine is a school of its own, and the chef specializes in cooking seafood and river fresh. Therefore, Tongheju has several famous seafood dishes, such as pan fish, fried double crisp, hydrangea sea cucumber, braised mullet egg, grilled abalone dragon whisker.
Tongheju retired 60 or 70-year-old old chef, a glance at the sea cucumber, you know where the sea cucumber is.
How did he know? Teacher Fu said, after a lifetime of work, I know it with my eyes closed. The sea cucumber of the four-column thorn is chinese seafood. The six trips are japanese seafood.
Tongheju was originally at No. 3 Xisi South Street, and later moved, and now there is a semicolon, which has changed a lot. There are also unchanged ones. The words on the plaque are still the words written by the calligrapher Pu Jie in those years. In the past hundred years, this word, this size, this craft, has not changed much.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the relevant departments organized workshops for chefs. Gather the old chefs of the old brand to teach everyone the cooking skills and organize the old dishes. At that time, the trainees were the mainstay of the chef industry in the 80s, and they are also the teachers and masters today. It was they who left the old taste of tongheju.
For example, the famous three non-stick.
Three non-stick is a dish unique to Lu cuisine. There is a saying that because Lu cai uses a lot of egg white to hang the paste, there will be a lot of egg yolk left. It was a shame to throw it away, and the chefs invented the three-non-stick dish.
Egg yolk, add water and mung bean starch and sugar, sauté in the pan, after five minutes, the liquid becomes solid. It's just so magical. You can't blink yet, one blink, one second it's still a golden liquid, the next second, it's a whole piece.
This process requires the chef to keep turning the spoon, the spoon does not leave the fire, the fire does not leave the spoon, to turn five or six hundred times. When out of the pan, in one go, slip out onto the prepared plate, and really achieve one non-stick spoon, two non-stick plates, and three non-stick teeth.
This dish is quite famous internationally. At that time, the Emperor of Japan sent someone to buy it with a thermos bucket and bring it back to Japan. This is the farthest takeaway. Nowadays, Tonghe Curie, there is a special stove, do not do anything else, only do three non-stick, and make a hundred parts a day, this traditional cooking craft can not be lost in the slightest.
How Tongheju was born, aside from those legends and jokes, it always conforms to the needs of the times. Tongheju has developed to this day, and it is also the need of the times. A living, life-filled old-fashioned brand is a gift from time to the city.
Casserole house
Casserole house, from the rise to the fame of Beijing, relies on the main dish - "casserole white meat".
Casserole white meat
In Beijing, you may be able to eat this dish in other restaurants, but only the "casserole white meat" produced by Casserole Ju is different.
Because the white meat of the casserole house has a lot to do with the imperial sacrifice of the Qing Dynasty. The imperial family of the Qing Dynasty held shamanic sacrifices on special days. One of the rituals in the activity is "animal husbandry". This animal arrangement is to put the peeled and boiled pork in a certain order in a designated position, and then hold a sacrifice.
The event also includes "Eating Meat". This meat is the meat that has been placed in the shaman's sacrifice.
Therefore, at this time, "eating meat" can not simply be called "eating meat", but is called "eating ShenYu". This is part of the sacrificial activity.
Shaman sacrifices in the Qing Dynasty court were very frequent, and sacrifices were held every day in Kunning Palace. Ordinary Manchu households, at important moments, will also have shamanic sacrifices. However, the spiritual activity of sacrifice is probably based on economic foundations, so if you want to say that the "animals" with high specifications and good quality must be royal.
The royal family's sacrifice activities are so frequent, the "shenyu" eats, it is estimated that it is a little stressful. What should I do if I can't finish eating?
History is often made by small people. At this time, the working people with lively and economically minded people appeared.
In the west of the four lands, near the city of Chuwa, there are many royal palaces. The Liwang Mansion, the Dingwang Mansion, and the more distant Gongwang Mansion, the "Shenyu" in these royal palaces, are most likely passed down to the people in some form through the staff of the royal palaces in this area.
There is a saying that the more husbands in the Dingwang Mansion set a precedent. It is said that during the Qianlong period, the more husband of the Dingwang Mansion opened a small shop on the outer wall of the palace. What is sold is the "Shenyu" in the royal palace, that is, the cooked peeled pork. Due to the good quality of the meat and the exquisite practice, the business is getting better and better.
At that time, someone also wrote a poem: "Eat white meat in the city of tank tiles, and the sun is late." "You see, it is clear here, go to the city of tank tiles to eat white meat, when the sun comes out, it is considered late."
This small shop is called Heshunju, which is the predecessor of casserole house.
Because the boiled white meat of the casserole house originates from the "shenyu" of the shaman's sacrifice, only this dish of their family, the white meat is peeled. This rule has been followed to this day.
Even though Heshunju was later renamed Casserole House, the address was moved from the original Dingwang Mansion to its current location; the people who came to eat casserole white meat changed from wearing robes and horse coats to denim T-shirts; people's contact methods changed from letter writing to WeChat, and this "Shenyu white meat" of Casserole Ju has always maintained the appearance of that year.
It can be said that casserole house, a small restaurant, retains a shadow of the Manchu sacrifice activities in Beijing two hundred years ago. Let today's people, through a dish, have the opportunity to understand a little bit of life at that time.
Sesame balls
Casserole house is like a museum of old dishes, storing some dishes for the elderly. In addition to the casserole white meat that has been handed down from the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty to the present, there are some other crafts. For example, "sesame balls".
This sesame ball is one of the famous appetizers in Beijing in the past, "Thirty-two Fried". Listen to the chef of the casserole house, in the past, the restaurant that sold wine, there would be a special menu, the content is thirty-two fried, fried ribs, fried waist flowers, fried fat sausages, etc., listen to the wine. Unfortunately, most of these dishes are laborious handicraft dishes, troublesome, and can not be sold at a price, so gradually no one has made it.
A few years ago, the master of the casserole house occasionally made it. It's just that it's really difficult to do. The difficulty lies in the "hot sugar" link.
When the sugar is made and the balls are laid, the next morning is not bright and non-sticky, and the sesame seeds cannot be adhered to; the next night it becomes a pulling silk, and the color is not good. Therefore, the masters must cultivate a pair of fire eyes and golden eyes, and they must be fast in their eyes. The finished sesame balls, each of which is about the size of an adult's thumb, is sweet on the outside and salty on the inside, crispy and delicious, and is a good dish to drink.
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
That's it for you
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
Beijing Evening News
Beijing FangzhiGuan