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Shoes and socks are an important part of clothing, which can reflect the changes in customs and people's aesthetics from one side.
Shoes: In the old days, grass, leather, wood, linen, silk, cloth and other materials for shoemaking in Shandong were mostly woven by weaving technology, and were woven with grass rope, twine and silk thread. In the 20th century, straw shoes and pu shoes were gradually eliminated, and leather shoes and liberation shoes were popular, sandals were worn in summer, and rubber boots were worn on rainy days. Since the 1980s, more and more modern shoe-making materials, such as leather, rubber, man-made fibers, synthetic leather, linen, satin, silk fabrics, etc., are increasingly used by the footwear industry.
I use a paste such as an unused cloth head and use it as a material for the sole after drying
The components of shoes include uppers, soles, and shoe faces. The upper part of the shoe is the upper part of the shoe, which is sandwiched, and also has canvas, or gown. In the old days, women's uppers were mostly red, green, blue, and purple satin fabrics, and embroidered or cut with various flower and grass patterns; men wore more black soil cloth and green cloth, attached to the gown, called "upper" and "upper cloth". The sole, which is the bottom of the shoe, is made of a jacket and is the most troublesome to make. When making a sole, first put on the gown, follow the mouth, and then put the sole. The "thousand-layer bottom" is a thick and strong sole made of more than four layers of pants. The shoe face, that is, the shoe cuff, is divided into round, square, long and narrow. The heel of the shoe is the back of the sole, and there are flat heels, short heels, mid heels, and high heels.
Copper shoe lift page
Shoe lift page, also known as "shoe page root", "shoe drag root" and "shoe handle", is a piece of cloth sewn on the outer edge of the heel of the shoe to carry the shoe, generally used for children's cotton shoes. Shoelaces are the straps used to secure shoes on the feet. Traditionally, cloth straps are embellished on the back sides of the upper, tied from the back to the neck of the front foot; the modern laces of the mechanism are eye-catching belts on the two front faces of the upper, with three eyes and five eyes. The strap is a horizontal strap of women's shoes, one end is fixed to the upper of the inside of the shoe, and the other end enters the button on the outside to secure the shoe.
In the past, shoes were mostly handmade by women, which was both a display of the craftsmanship of girls and daughters-in-law, and a gift to express their hearts. First use paper to cut out the sole sample, upper sample, shoe pattern, and then put on the pants. Wash and dry the worn clothes and corner cloth, make a thin paste with millet noodles, lay the cloth layer by layer on the door panels, panels and other flat furniture, and brush a layer of paste water on each layer, and tightly bond each layer, generally 3 to 5 layers. Cut the pants and the sole according to the shoe pattern. The thread is a twine thread as thick as a grain, pierced with a needle cone, and a large needle leads. The stitches are small, dense, neat and symmetrical. Finally, there are the shoes. Use twine to connect the sole and upper to form the shoe. The insoles are also handmade and also become gifts because they are practical and exquisite. In the old days, shoe-making tools in shoe workshops included shoe lasts, shoehorns, etc. Shoe last, the inner shoe mold used in shoe workshops to make shoes; shoehorn, an appliance for lifting shoes made of copper, long shape, slightly concave in the middle. In the 1980s, the way of handmade shoes was also replaced by machine production.
There are many types of shoes, according to the style and workmanship, can be divided into the following categories:
Cow nose shoes, also known as "grab hook shoes" "hook shoes", "cow licking nose", "kicking cows", "shoveling shoes" and "shallow shoes", for three faces of coarse cloth na bang cloth shoes, the cloth bottom has a twine thread, extremely thick, the cloth gang is also used with thick thread, the toe is made of black leather to make a long ladder shape, the shoe face is "ya" shaped, such as a cow nose, the upper and the nose are sewn out of the edges. The shoe was sturdy, but hard, uncomfortable, popular in the countryside of the 1930s and 1940s, and was still visible in the mountains of the 1970s.
Cow nose shoes
Shoes with a raw sole, shoes with no cornice on the sole. The cornice is a strip of cloth used to enclose the edges of each layer of pleated cloth, and then fold each layer of pleated hinges into a sole.
Square shoes, also known as "basket shoes", have a square front mouth and shoe socks.
Round-mouth shoes, also known as "monk's head" and "light shoes", are cloth or leather soles, green cloth gangs, round-toed round mouths, used by both men and women. During the war years, this style was also used to make military shoes for the children and soldiers. For the convenience of marching, cloth belts are often nailed to two gangs, which can be tied to the instep of the feet.
No face shoes, like the current square mouth, round mouth cloth shoes, the shoe face is small.
Single shoe face, cloth shoes with a face along the edge.
Two shoe faces, cloth shoes with two faces along the edge.
Five-eyed shoes are shoes with pairs of uppers to wear with straps.
Five-eyed cotton shoes
Elastic shoes, also known as "elastic shoes", are shoes that are fixed to the feet with elastic bands.
Thick-soled shoes, the bottom is thick and inch, with satin and velvet as the surface, the upper is shallow and narrow, the upper has a thorn flower or ruyi cloud head, and the top surface is a single beam or double beam, which is the style of men's shoes at the end of the Qing Dynasty, and later used as a shou shoe style.
Cotton shoes are shoes with a sole and upper lined with cotton wool. The popular ordinary cotton shoe style in the modern market is a double-face single nose type, the shoe mouth is small, the front and back slits, the style is not different between men and women, only the size. Most of the noodles are huada, corduroy, and velvet. This kind of cotton shoes are light, warm, and easy to make, and are more popular.
Mian Ula, as the name suggests, should be a kind of cotton shoe brought to Shandong by the Manchus after entering the customs. Later, with the increase of Shandong people breaking into the Kanto, cotton ula also became a kind of cotton shoes that Shandong people like to wear. The bottom and upper of the cotton ula are sewn with pig skin, there is a waist, the shoe is replaced by dry soft grass instead of the insole, and the belt is tied to the leg. Dry and hard every other year, soak soft in water the next year. After the 1960s, there was a kind of shoe called cotton ula on the market, rubber sole, pressed with cotton cloth, half-deep barrel, with laces worn through the eyes, very warm, popular with young men and women. To this day, there are still some for sale in the rural market.
Cotton Ula shoes
Boots, mainly rain boots, cotton boots, leather boots. There are glue, leather, felt, cloth, all of which are long barrels. In lakes and tidal flats, people make tall boots from raw cowhide and wear them when cutting reeds, which not only prevent reeds from hurting their feet, but also waterproof.
Pu shoes, also called "Pu wo", are woven with pu grass and lined with pu lining, which is the cheapest cotton shoe in the north. Pu shoes pay attention to "mounting", that is, on the outside of the shoe body, the bag nails a layer of soil cloth to avoid damage. In coastal fishing villages, fresh pig skins are sewn on the bottom and gang, which is warm and can be stepped on snow and muddy water. There is also a "hairy nest", which is a kind of shoe made of reed flowers. The poor use it as cotton shoes, worn barefoot, and warm. Generally bought in winter, discarded in spring.
Flower shoes, also known as "embroidered shoes" and "embroidered shoes". Embroidered shoes are mostly embroidered on round shoes, there are only embroidered toe caps, and there are toe caps full of embroidery, called "full of flower shoes". There is a kind of "cut flower shoes" in embroidered shoes, the two pages of the upper are relatively close together, and after the thread is finished according to the pattern, it is cut with a knife to form two pages of floral ornaments with exactly the same pattern. The traditional motifs "Lotus Birth Takako", "Durian Hundred Sons", "Double Butterfly Love Flower", "Dragon Flying Phoenix Dance", etc., mostly pray for happiness, wealth and many children, expressing people's wishes for a better life. In the old days, foot-binding women wore "bow shoes", which were named because of the arch in the bottom. Bow shoes are about 3 inches long, mostly made of cloth, there are also satin, the upper of the shoes is embroidered with bird patterns, generally wooden bottom, white bleach along the strip, there are two kinds of flat heels and wedge heels, the front face is sewn. Foot-binding women also wear "soft shoes", also known as "eunuch shoes" and "shoe change", which are sleeping shoes, mostly made of big red, big green double-layer cloth, tight and small, mainly to prevent the foot cloth from falling off when sleeping and the small feet grow up. Wear it inside during the day and sleep at night.
Big leather bumps, that is, big-headed military leather shoes, used to be used by the people as the standard for the image of Japanese and Kuomintang officers.
Spike shoes are made by applying cooked tung oil to shoes with white tops and densely nailing half-inch nipple nails on the front and back palms. After the 1930s, rubber rain boots spread everywhere, and spike shoes became extinct.
Rain boots, also known as "oil shoes", "oil shoes" and "water shoes", women's shoes coated with tung oil, the surface is shallower; later there is a mechanism, rubber, the help and the bottom press together.
Sneakers, also called "rubber shoes", are worn by military soldiers during training, yellow-green canvas gangs, rubber soles. From the 1970s to the 1980s, there was also a kind called "Lux shoes", also called "pull-back shoes", which were tennis shoes and were loved by young people. After the 1980s, sneakers were mixed with sneakers and tourist shoes.
Sandals, worn in summer, toes, heels exposed, the upper of the canvas, leather, artificial leather, nylon, the sole of the rubber, leather, resin, mainly refers to plastic shoes, leather sandals. Before the 1960s, some people in the countryside thought that wearing sandals was an unsightly behavior, and even slipped along: "Shake up, shake down (meaning soft clothing on the upper and lower body), and bare fingers on the bottom." "After the 1960s, sandals became popular in the countryside. Men wear an earthen sandal called "grass shoe insoles", also known as "leather squirrels", which are earthen sandals made of old tire nails.
Slippers, also called "shoe toe laer" and "squeak board", only the upper of the shoe protects the sole, and there is no heel. It became popular after the 1980s and was used for indoor shoes.
High heels are women's shoes with a heel of more than 7 cm. After the Xinhai Revolution, the foot binding system was abolished, and Western high heels were introduced to China.
After the 1990s, there were many fashion shoes, including muffin shoes, health shoes, sneakers, tourist shoes, boots and so on.
Socks: There are three kinds of traditional socks: one is cloth socks, hand-sewn with white cloth; one is mechanism socks, commonly known as "foreign socks"; one is foot cloth, women with long foot cloth, men with square white cloth. Green shoes and white socks are the favorite matching of men and women and children in the old days.
In 2004, Liu Delong (former), president of the Shandong Folklore Society, visited the little-footed elderly in Juancheng County
In the old days, women wrapped their feet and covered white cloth socks on the foot-wrapping cloth, which was called "foot binding", also called "foot binding". Men also wrap their feet in cloth and wear socks. Cloth socks are long and short, long to the knee, short only to the shin, there is a slit, when doing the bottom first, and then on the help, help with two layers of cloth, made into two pieces, similar to a boot tube. The bottom of the young woman's socks is embroidered with various patterns of flowers, birds, insects and fish with various patterns of flowers, birds, insects and fishes like the soles of the shoes. After the Republic of China, gauze socks and stockings were prevalent, and the flowers were many and light, and the cloth socks were not happy. After the 1980s, knitted socks and nylon socks became popular. Skirts are generally worn with pantyhose and stockings. Flesh-colored stockings have always been particularly favored by women.
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