Interested in the history of the Nanyuan area, perhaps inspired by Mr. Torihira. Mr. Hu Liping wrote the names of a bunch of subway stations in Beijing, and one of them happens to be the lines I often take. The "Haidotun", "Dahongmen", "Dahongmen South", "Heyi", "East Highland", "Rocket Wanyuan", "Wufutang", "Demao" and "Yinghai" along Metro Line 8 are all related to the former Nanyuan. In addition, the "Majiapu", "Jiaomen West", "Xingong" and so on along Metro Line 4 also belong to the big circle of Nanyuan.
Not long ago, when I visited the Tuanhe Palace again, I found that it had been closed for a long time, and only some nearby residents gathered next to the rusty fitness equipment on the outside of the wall, playing cards and chess in a circle. For this most important monument in the Nanyuan area, it may have been gradually forgotten by many people. However, as a former royal garden, this place has experienced an unusual history, so the author came up with the idea of recording it.
"Kangxi Southern Tour Map" volume (partial), Qing, Wang Yi and other works, the picture shows the southern patrol team out of Yongding Gate to the Nanyuan Palace Museum collection
Yuan called "Flying Berth", Ming as "Nanhaizi"
Historically, the Beijing area was not short of water, and the former Nanyuan area was a lake in the lower reaches of the Yongding River. The old style of this place may be comparable to the baiyangdian area of today. Therefore, as early as the Liaojin Dynasty, the release of eagles for fishing and hunting became the "traditional project" of the rulers at that time.
By the Time of the Mongol Yuan Dynasty, the Lake-strewn Nanyuan area became an excellent place for rulers to find joy. However, at that time, the name of Nanyuan did not appear in this place, but was called "Flying Berth" by the Yuan Court. It is said that in the area of Feifang Berth in the Yuan Dynasty, the hundred miles of willow forests and sparsely populated people.
The so-called "flying release" is the meaning of falcon hunting. According to the explanation in the book, every year at the winter and spring meeting, Tianzi would visit the outskirts of Dadu in person, and the Activity of Dongqing (an eagle with strong bird catching ability) would be carried out here. And because of the local water reeds, it is called "flying berth". Today, in the Nanyuan area, there is still a drying platform for Haidongqing to dry feathers (Daxing District-level cultural protection unit). Li Dongyang, a scholar of the Ming Dynasty University, used the verse "Falling Geese Far Away from the Clouds and Waipu, Flying Eagles Want to Go to the Waterside Platform" in the poem "Autumn Wind in the South", which vividly reproduced the scene of the feudal emperor hunting at the Hanging Eagle Terrace.
In the Ming Dynasty, the name of Feifangbo began to be replaced by Nanhaizi. Where did the name "Nanhaizi" come from? According to the "Chenyuan Zhiluo", it is roughly like this: "(South of the Beijing Division) Haizi Inner Spring Source gathered, known as one acre spring, known as tuanhe, and the water has five seas." Kao YiMu Spring flows southeast in the north of the new Yamen, passing through the south of the Old Yamen to the Second Gate, and the Liangshui River comes from the northwest outside Haizi and enters the Garden. Its water originates from Shuitouzhuang outside the Right Anmen Gate, and the east stream folds into the north wall of Haizi and is transported to Zhangjiawan. The Tuan River is inside the Huangcun Gate, leading southeast, flowing through the south of the Eagle Terrace, passing through the South Red Gate, and the water of the Five Seas flows from the north to the southeast of Haizi, which is the FengHe River. From this information, it can be seen that at that time, there were many rivers and waters here, "there were three Haizi (Beihai, Zhonghai, and Nanhai), and it was forbidden to have Haizi in the north", so it was called Nanhaizi.
Emperor Ming Yongle ordered the construction of an earthen wall around Nanhaizi and opened four gates: the North Gate was the North Red Gate, the South Gate was the South Red Gate, the East Gate was the East Red Gate, and the West Gate was the West Red Gate. Later, temples, palaces, and offices were successively added to it, and officials were sent to manage them. In the Qing Dynasty, Nanhaizi was renamed Nanyuan, its earthen walls were also converted into brick walls, and the number of garden gates was increased to nine. According to Mr. Wang Yongbin's book "Beijing's Guanxiang Townships and Time-honored Brands", the nine garden gates are: "In the middle of the south wall is the South Red Gate, in the southeast is the City Gate of Huangcun, in the middle of the north wall is the Big Red Gate, slightly east is the Little Red Gate; in the middle of the east wall is the East Red Gate, in the northeast is the Shuangqiao Gate; in the middle of the west wall is the West Red Gate, and in the northwest is the Zhenguo Temple Gate." In addition, more than twenty 'corner doors' were opened during the Qianlong period. In addition, several palaces and temples have been added, making the South Garden more magnificent and solemn. The garden also has a large number of deer, roe deer, pheasants, rabbits, geese, geese and other birds and animals. Feeding these birds and beasts was for the emperor's hunting pleasure."
Eagle drying platform
Kangxi's southern tour began at the Red Gate of Peking University
The Qing Dynasty also regulated the management of Nanyuan. According to the "Great Qing Huidian", "Set up a paddock in the South Garden, and take it to the Court of Worship." The four flags of yellow, white, white, and blue are listed on the left, the four flags are listed on the right (in order), the four flags are listed on the right (in order), the two wings are placed in the flags as tables, the two sentry fronts are white, the two associations are yellow, the two associations are yellow, and the chinese military is yellow. Drive (the emperor) to the paddock and hunt together."
The Great Red Gate was used until the late Qing Dynasty, which was the most important garden gate of Nanhaizi and the only gate through which the emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties traveled from the Forbidden City to Nanhaizi. The earliest images of the Red Gate of Peking University were painted on the Kangxi Southern Tour. Because the Kangxi Emperor's second southern tour began from the North Red Gate of the Southern Garden, the North Red Gate was also painted on the first volume of the scroll. Judging from the picture scrolls at that time, the North Red Gate was a three-hole gate with a height and two lows, and the gate tower was blue, with a glazed tile roof and a four-corner cornice arch.
For example, according to the "Great Qing Huidian", inside the Red Gate of Peking University, there is also the official office "Fengchen Garden" that manages the Imperial Garden of the Capital, and the "Changing Hall" used for the emperor to hunt and change clothes in the South China Sea. In the era of the Beiyang warlords of the Republic of China, the fengchenyuan official office was once a county magistrate in Daxing County (Daxing County in the Qing Dynasty was in Daxing Hutong, Dongcheng District). During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, the pseudo-Daxing County Magistrate was moved from the Fengchenyuan Official Office to Yingshi Street in Nanyuan Town. At the beginning of the founding of New China, the Fengchenyuan official office was also used as the office land of the North China Agricultural Reclamation Management Office, and then it was converted into a dormitory, and then changed from a dormitory to a private house. To this day, some of the old houses are still there, which is the east gatehouse of the Great Red Gate. When I went to visit, I found that it was now a small guesthouse. The Peking University Red Gate was demolished in August 1955, leaving only the place name of the Great Red Gate.
As early as the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, that is, after the opening of Nanhaizi to the outside world, the North Red Gate (now known as the "Great Red Gate") gradually became the main traffic route into Beijing. This also caused the number of residents in this area to rise sharply, and then developed into a larger village outside the Yongding Gate. Today, it is the seat of the Nanyuan Township Government. When I was very young, my uncle worked in the Shougang Strip Factory not far from Dahongmen. Every time he drove to his unit, he had to tell his family: "Go to the Big Red Gate." Therefore, when I was a child, I thought that the big red gate was Shougang, and shougang was also the big red door.
With the passage of time, the original Nanda Red Gate has completely disappeared. I had searched for the remains of the Nanda Red Gate in Yinghaizhuang, Daxing District, but found nothing. The name Yinghai was given after the twenty-eighth year of Qing Guangxu (1902), when the Qing court allowed the reclamation of wasteland in nanyuan, and only then was it started by the officials and people who came to reclaim it. According to Mr. Hu Liping's research, at this time, there were eunuchs from Hejian Province, who were directly subordinate to the province, recruited a group of poor people from their hometowns to reclaim and cultivate here, and then formed a village. The ancient name of Hejian Province was "Yingzhou", and "Hai" represented Nanhaizi, hence the name "Yinghai".
Today, the market in Xihongmen has become very prosperous, and the ancient buildings of the past have disappeared in this noisy world. The Donghong Gate, which is next to Xiaozhuang Village and close to the Maju Bridge, where the former "Great South Peak" is located, is one of the four garden gates opened by Nanhaizi in the Ming Dynasty. Because this door regulation is only a door opening, it is also known as the East Little Red Gate. The East Red Gate was built on the south bank of the Liangshui River, but was later destroyed by floods, and in the fifty-fourth year of Qianlong (1789), the imperial court ordered that when the Haizi Wall was "earthen and easy to brick wall", it would be moved to the position of Lixu on the north side of the bridge on the north bank of the Liangshui River. The location of the former East Red Gate has become the Xintun Corner Gate, which is one of the more than twenty corner gates in nanyuan. Today, these corner gates have disappeared, leaving only the place name of "Corner Gate" on the east side of Majiapu. At this point, not only the Eastern Red Gate of the Ming Dynasty has ceased to exist, but even the East Red Gate of the Qing Dynasty is just a place name within the jurisdiction of the Yizhuang Economic and Technological Development Zone.
Kunlun Stone
Early residents called "Kaido"
In the vast land of Nanyuan, which is more than a hundred miles in circumference, rivers have been intertwined and many lakes since Liaojin. When Ming Yongle was in power, because of the royal construction of the Nanhaizi, he thought of "setting up a thousand people in the sea to watch." "This is one of the earlier official residents of Nanhaizi.
At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the war made the Beijing area sparsely populated, and Ming Chengzu ordered emigration from Shanxi and Shandong to the vicinity of Beijing, of which 1,000 households settled around Nanhaizi, so they were called "Haihu". They are responsible for feeding and guarding deer, roe deer, cattle, horses and other livestock. By the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, "1,600 sea households were set up, and each person was given 24 acres of land." According to Mr. Wang Yongbin, from spring to autumn, the sea households cultivated the land given by the imperial court, and in winter they were allowed to hunt rabbits, pheasants, geese, etc., for food and clothing. Usually, when the emperor comes to watch the exercises and play hunting, he must stand in line to be inspected and help to surround the prey. These sea households were actually some residents who were driven by the feudal court and had no personal freedom.
The haidos served the imperial court while reclaiming the land, so the place where the haido residents lived was called "Haidotun". Until the founding of the People's Republic of China, there were at least three places in the southern suburbs of Beijing known as Haihutun: Haihutun near Donghongmen, Haihutun near Dahongmen, and Haido New Village in Daxing District.
After the Nanyuan was abandoned, the Qing court sold the land to the big bureaucrats and eunuchs in the palace, and changed it into a manor, and these seafarers naturally became the merchants who served the owners of the manor. Of course, due to the limited number of people, these original seafarers could not cultivate much land. Therefore, the manor owners recruited a group of poor peasants from Zhili, Shanxi and Shandong as farmers. At this time, the number of residents in the Nanyuan area increased greatly.
As far as the Republic of China came, as the power relied on by the original manor owners collapsed, most of their manors also declined, and the former farmers became free peasants, and each of these free peasants was a village. The name of the village is based on the original manor or topographical characteristics of the Nanyuan area, which is conventionally called by people. For example, it is rumored that the manor "Demaozhuang" of the Minister of the Interior Rong Lu is said to have been purchased by a certain bureaucrat, and the harmonic pronunciation of "Yiziying" was changed to "Yizhuang" (which may also be the harmonic sound of "Yizhuang") according to folk sayings, and so on.
Ruins of Tuanhe Palace
There are more than ten temples
In the Qing Dynasty, within the jurisdiction of Nanyuan, there were more than ten large and small temples. According to the research of Mr. Yu Shoujiang, I learned about the most famous ones.
The Yuanling Palace, which was once located in the west of the inner side of Xiaohongmen, was located on the banks of the Liangshui River southwest of Xiaohongmen in today's Chaoyang District. This palace was built in the fourteenth year of Qing Shunzhi (1657) and was to be rebuilt in the twenty-eighth year of Qianlong (1763). According to historical records, the Yuanling Palace is extremely large in scale and the temple building is magnificent, and it is the largest group of Taoist buildings in the Nanyuan area. This Miyayama Gate Miyagi, south-facing, is known as the "True Treasure Realm of the House". Inside, there is the Chaoyuan Gate. Inside the door, there are twelve yuanji halls, a round hall with heavy eaves, and twenty-four doors, similar to the system of the Temple of Heaven prayer hall. Behind the Yuanji Hall, there is the Yuanyou Gate, and inside the door is the Five Shades of the Heavy Eaves Condensation Hall. There are two auxiliary halls in front of the Ningshi Hall, the east side hall is the Yizhen Hall, and the west side hall is the Gion Hall. Unfortunately, this palace view was gradually abandoned after the "Gengzi State Change" and eventually disappeared completely.
Yongmu Temple, located on the west side of the old Yamen Palace inside the Xiaohong Gate, was founded in the 30th year of the Qing Kangxi Dynasty (1691) as the place where Empress Xiaozhuang wished for her, and the temple was handwritten by the Kangxi Emperor. At the time of its founding, Empress Xiaozhuang had been dead for nearly three years. Yongmu Temple was rebuilt in the 29th year of Qianlong (1764). In the five rooms of its main hall, the Kangxi Emperor inscribed a plaque called "Xiangyun Fayu", and the Qianlong Emperor inscribed the couplet "Heart Pearl Reflects the Great Thousand Worlds; The Sea of Sex Is Always Passing through the Door".
Deoksugsa Temple, on the east side of Yeongmu-ji Temple, was founded in the fifteenth year of The Reign of Qing Shunzhi (1658). It was built at the same time as the old Yamen Palace. After that, Deoksugung Temple was destroyed by fire and was not rebuilt until the 20th year of Qianlong (1755). Because Deoksugung Temple is adjacent to the old Yamen Palace, the Shunzhi Emperor, the Kangxi Emperor and others often came here to pay their respects when they were stationed in Nanyuan. In the forty-fifth year of Qianlong (1780), Deoksugung Temple received a large-scale renovation. As a result of this renovation, the Deoksugsa Temple complex is magnificent and magnificent, becoming the largest of the many temples in Nanyuan. In front of Deoksugung-ji Temple, the East-West Erfang confronts, the five main halls inside the mountain gate, and the imperial book is called "Wisdom Lantern Round Illumination, Good Lion Roar". There are three east and west halls on either side of the main hall. In front of the main hall stands two huge monuments, 7.5 meters high, respectively engraved "Imperial Reconstruction of DeokshoJi Temple Monument", imperial poems and Baoding songs, and Baoding is also in front of the main hall.
Less than a kilometer southwest of Deoksugung Temple, there is a Guandi Temple. The temple was built during the Ming Jiajing period (1522-1566) and rebuilt in the third year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1738). The temple has three floors of temples, with the mountain gate facing south. Located two miles southeast of Deoksugung-ji Temple is shuiyou temple, also known as Renyou temple. The temple was built in the seventeenth year of the Qing Kangxi Dynasty (1678). The main hall is known as the Yanzhen Hall, and there is a side hall in the east and west of the main hall, the east hall is the Xieyou Hall, and the west side hall is the Hongyu Hall.
Three kilometers away from the taipei side of the present-day Eagle, that is, in the Zhongxingzhuang substation in the southeast of the East Highlands, there was once a Ningyou Temple, which was the land temple in the Nanyuan area. The temple was built by Emperor Sejong in the eighth year of Qing Yongzheng (1730) for the "god of the land of the sea". According to historical records, The Temple of Ningyou has three trees of the mountain gate, three trees of the main hall, five trees of the apse, and three trees of the east and west imperial study. In the main hall hangs the plaque inscribed by the Yongzheng Emperor's imperial pen "Kaoru Buze", and the Qianlong Emperor's imperial inscription plaque "Fujiang Fanyu".
In addition, there are many other temples within the jurisdiction of Nanyuan. Among them, there are four Guandi Temples, four Seven Holy Temples, two Zhenwu Temple and two Dragon Temples, as well as many Yaowang Temple, Dragon King Temple, Horse Temple, Jizo Temple, Bodhisattva Temple and so on.
Tuanhe Palace covers the most extensive area
By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the landscape of the Three Mountains and Five Gardens had begun to see its scale. Whether it was the Kangxi Emperor or the Yongzheng Emperor, they both took the Three Mountains and Five Gardens as their life destination. The Kangxi Emperor died in Changchun Garden, and the Yongzheng Emperor returned to the Yuanmingyuan. However, the Qianlong Emperor, who succeeded to the throne, did not completely snub Nanyuan. In the forty-second year of Qianlong (1771), the imperial court also carried out a large-scale expansion of this royal hunting ground. A palace with the style of Jiangnan garden was also born, which is the Tuanhe Palace that has survived to this day.
Tuanhe Palace is actually the largest and largest palace complex in the Qing Dynasty. It is located on the inside of the Huangcun Gate in the southwest of Nanyuan, with a circumference of about 2,000 meters and an area of 26 hectares. The palace is divided into two parts: the palace area and the garden forest area.
According to historical records, the palace building area in the Tuanhe Palace was divided into two offices, east and west. After passing through the stone bridge of the moat, a pair of iron lions can be seen living on both sides of the gate of the Great Palace of nishisho. The iron lion casting is delicate and lifelike. To the left and right of the Omiya Gate are the East-West Dynasty Room, the Imperial Tea Room, and the Shou Dining Room. After entering the Gate of the Great Palace and re-entering the Gate of the Second Palace, you will be greeted by a rockery made of Taihu Lake stone, engraved with the word "Yunxiu", which is the imperial pen of the Qianlong Emperor. There are three cave houses at the foot of the rockery, which are interconnected and lined with east and west halls. Turning north through Yunxiu Peak, it is the third entrance to the "Xuanyuan Hall", which is titled "Time and Heavenly Tour", which is the study hall of the Qianlong Emperor, where he often receives his courtiers and handles daily affairs.
As for the east office of the palace, it is within the gate of the second palace. At the palace gate, there is a pair of qilin holding drum stones, and after entering the palace gate, it is the Qinghuai Hall, which is the empress's residence. The temple behind the palace is called Chuxiu Palace (which is the same as the chuxiu palace in the Forbidden City), and it is used as the residence of the concubines.
The Tuanhe Palace, built on the occasion of Qianlong's prosperity, once had more than 600 temples and houses of various types. From the beginning of the Qianlong Era to the Guangxu Dynasty, all the emperors' tombs (to the Qing Tombs and Western Tombs), hunting, military parades, etc., were used as the first-class important places of residence. This situation lasted until the "Gengzi National Change" in the twenty-sixth year of Guangxu (1900).
Today's Tuanhe Palace, the best preserved is the imperial monument of the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. The stele is engraved around the four poems of the Imperial Tuanhe Palace from the forty-fifth year of the Qing Dynasty (1780) to the fifty-third year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1788). The inscription on the west side of the Imperial Monument Pavilion may be the legendary "Edict of Sin" that has long been lost in Nanhaizi.
Nanyuan Barracks
The "Gengzi State Change" caused the Tuanhe Palace to suffer
In early August of the year of the "Gengzi Rebellion", the invaders burned the temple in Nanhaizi and shot the animals in the garden. The Qing soldiers stationed in Nanyuan were vulnerable and fled in the wind. The invading armies of Britain, Japan, and other countries have successively looted the treasures in the palace, and destroyed the famous porcelain and stone sculptures that could not be taken away, thus causing serious damage to the Tuanhe Palace.
In the eleventh year of the Republic of China (1922), Feng Yuxiang, who served as an army inspection envoy, formed a review envoy office in Nanyuan and sent some of his subordinate troops to garrison the Tuanhe Palace. During the fengbu garrison, he dug a bath for soldiers in the area of the stone slab house on the east bank of the middle lake of the palace; he also built a quilt factory in the palace area of the tuanhe palace.
In the summer of 1924, Feng Yuxiang bought land in the north of the Tuanhe Palace to build the Zhaozhong Ancestral Hall for the fallen officers and soldiers. The local people called this cemetery "Feng Yuxiang Yidi". According to the recollections of local elders, the Zhaozhong Ancestral Hall was abandoned as early as seventy years ago, leaving only a pair of iron lions at the entrance of the ancestral hall, which is the pair in front of the Grand Palace of the East Palace of tuanhe Palace.
In 1936, Song Zheyuan led the Headquarters of the 29th Army, the 38th Division and the Special Brigade to garrison Nanyuan. After the outbreak of the "July 7 Incident", the Japanese invading army attacked the defense of the Twenty-ninth Army in Nanyuan. Due to the disparity in strength, Nanyuan was captured by the Japanese army. Tong Linge, deputy commander of the 29th Army, and Zhao Dengyu, commander of the 132nd Division, were blocked by the Japanese army when they led their troops to move to the city of Beijing, and unfortunately died on the road from Nanyuan to Dahongmen. Amid the sound of artillery fire, the Tuanhe Palace was again severely damaged. In 1942, in order to build Nanyuan Airport and strategic fortifications such as Langfang, Huangcun and Nanyuan Railway Station, the Japanese army began to demolish the remains of the Tuanhe Palace on a large scale. After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression in 1945, the Kuomintang government took over Nanyuan Airport. Nanyuan Airport became one of the large airports of the Kuomintang government in north China, with about 100 aircraft taking off and landing here every day. At the same time, the remaining buildings in the Tuanhe Palace were finally demolished, and most of the trees in the palace were cut down.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the ruins of the Tuanhe Palace were assigned to the Beijing Municipal Bureau of Gardens and Forestry as green land in 1957. Before the construction of Tuanhe Park in the 1980s, there were still 159 ancient cypress trees at the ruins of the palace, which stood proudly despite all the vicissitudes.
(The photo in the text is Gao Shen's photography)
Source Beijing Evening News
Written by Gao Shen
Process Editor Wu Yue