Headline number signed author: Pu Tieniu
In the summer of 1275, marcopolo (1254-1324), the Venetian, claimed to have come to the Yuan Dynasty with his father and uncle, and was welcomed by Kublai Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan dynasty. He lived and served as an official in the Yuan Dynasty for 17 years, and after returning to China in 1295, he published the novel "The Travels of Marco Polo" (also known as "The Chronicle of oriental observations"), which was dictated by Marco Polo in the prison of Genoa and compiled by the Pisaist Rustiqian, and whether the narrative of the book is true is disputed by historians. ）。 The book describes that most of the palace walls, walls and ceilings of the capital are covered with gold and silver, and the Japanese gold is used to build houses, and the claims are absolutely credible. The book was widely circulated, and Western Europeans were full of yearning, determined to cross the ocean and explore the rich East. Engels said: "What the Portuguese were looking for on the coast of Africa, India, and the whole Far East was gold; the word gold was the incantation that drove the Spaniards across the Atlantic to the Americas; gold was the first thing the white man wanted when he first set foot on a newly discovered coast."
But the topic we are discussing today has nothing to do with gold, but we want to talk about a cooking method invented by the Spaniards in the fifteenth century, teppanyaki.
Columbus
When it comes to teppanyaki, it is impossible to avoid Columbus, who discovered the American continent, and his crew. On August 3, 1492, Columbus was sent by the Queen of Spain to lead three hundred and ten tons of sailing ships from Puerto Barros, Spain, with a letter of state to the Monarch of India and the Emperor of China. The journey has been arduous for more than seventy days and nights. You know, a crew led by Columbus, on the surface of the royal sailors of Spain, but in fact a group of robbers who lick blood on the knife edge, these people usually pay the most attention to timely fun, like to spend days and wine, but in this vast sea, where is there any fun to find? The robbers had to fish all day long, and studying how the fish was cooked became a pastime for them to pass the boredom. One day, someone found a large iron plate, under the iron plate to raise a charcoal fire, and then put the fish caught on the large iron plate, while frying while seasoning, with a hand shovel, stirring, stirring, that is, cooking and eating, a different flavor. This method of cooking was quickly widely recognized and welcomed by bandits, and most of the fleets led by Portuguese navigators magellan and V.da Gama used this method to adjust the boring life at sea. In this way, teppanyaki with a bit of entertainment color, gracefully stepped onto the stage of the food world.
Fifteenth-century navigational road map
The development of teppanyaki in the early days went through two routes, one from the Spaniards to mexico on the American continent and California, the United States, and the other from the Portuguese south along the west coast of Africa, bypassing the Cape of Good Hope and entering Japan. However, from the end of the fifteenth century to the middle of the nineteenth century, although the teppanyaki was graceful and colorful, it never swayed. It was not until the death of Emperor Takamitsu in 1867 that Prince Muhito (i.e., Emperor Meiji) ascended the throne, setting off the Meiji Restoration. Teppanyaki began to make its way to the stars in Japan. The Meiji Restoration not only introduced modern Western industrial technology, but also advocated learning Western social culture and living habits, so teppanyaki, as one of the important cooking methods of Westerners, was valued by the Japanese dignitaries. In order to distinguish it from other Japanese dishes, Japanese chefs have improved the usual teppanyaki and used the finest ingredients such as lobster, sliver, abalone, silver cod, foie gras, Kobe beef, etc. At the same time, the ingredients are not pickled before making, and only salt and pepper are added to the barbecue process, which is the original taste of the food. Since then, Japanese teppanyaki has become the highest level of dining in Japanese cuisine.
Japanese Teppanyaki dishes
But Japanese teppanyaki is expensive, and eating Japanese teppanyaki is a symbol of wealth and status. Any food, only the public can consume, in order to achieve popularity. The real development and growth of teppanyaki came in the 1980s, after it spread from Japan to Guangzhou via Taiwan and Hong Kong.
Before the reform and opening up, Guangzhou, due to its geographical proximity to Hong Kong and Macao, became the front line of preparation for war and preparation for pioneering, it could not become the focus of domestic investment, and the industrial and agricultural bases were not chosen here, so many people smuggled to Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan because of poverty. After the reform and opening up, it is precisely because of its geographical advantages close to Hong Kong and Taiwan that Guangdong has taken the lead in enjoying various preferential conditions for economic policies in the whole country, and has become the focus and pioneer city of investment and business, so the Guangzhou area has become the forefront of reform and reform, and various favorable conditions have made the Guangzhou area a paradise for business investment, and teppanyaki and other delicacies have also come with the flow of people and funds.
Top Japanese teppanyaki
However, after all, teppanyaki is only used in large restaurants or Western restaurants, and not everyone in Guangzhou can enjoy it. It is necessary to satisfy the very cruel mouths of the Cantonese people and their tongues that they want, and to make ordinary people afford to consume. This proposition tests the wisdom of Cantonese chefs.
But this was completely difficult for the clever chefs, and soon they divided the teppanyaki into two forms. One is a large iron plate, that is, a form that is only used in large restaurants or Western restaurants; the other is a small iron plate, the operation procedure is: the raw materials are processed and formed, prepared to cook (oil slippery, boiled, fried, fried), put into the small iron plate heated in advance, and then pour the flavored juice into it, the soup in the dish encounters the hot iron plate, emitting a "humming" sound and accompanied by rolling white smoke, a time on the table steaming, the aroma is overflowing, the dish is steaming, quite distinctive. Small iron plate is small and convenient, large and small restaurants, restaurants can be, so that the dishes that come out are also called iron plate dishes.
Teppanyaki offal
Later, Cantonese chefs also found that the heat storage function of the casserole is extremely strong, and like the iron plate, it can cook the surface of the ingredients in an instant and lock the moisture of the ingredients. So I tried to put the fresh ingredients together with the prepared sauce into the casserole pot and baked, after the extremely high temperature of the boil, the soup in the clay pot continued to evaporate rapidly and made a "creak" sound, "creak" Cantonese pronunciation is "creak", this practice, Guangzhou people cleverly named it gel pot.
Therefore, teppanyaki and gel stew actually originated from teppanyaki, with these two left and right, and serving the people of shijing street, teppanyaki was able to develop and grow, starting from Guangdong, flowing to Shanghai, Beijing, and finally becoming popular throughout China.
As the source of development, to this day, the development of teppanyaki in China is divided into two classes from the perspective of consumers. One class is still high-end and atmospheric, serving high-end restaurants and Western restaurants, while the other class is reduced to street food and leisure food, serving the general public. Regardless of the level of teppanyaki, there is no comparison with the teppanyaki and gelatinous stew derived from it.
Teppanyaki beef
There are many sub-varieties of teppanyaki dishes, such as teppanyaki eel, teppanyaki chicken offal, teppanyaki beef, teppanyaki raw sausage and so on. The gel pot requires more freshness of ingredients, and the subdivided varieties are slightly less than the teppanyaki dishes. Representative dishes are gel yellow eel, gel raw intestine, gel fish head and so on. All ingredients in the gel pot can be used to make teppanyaki dishes, but not all the ingredients of the teppanyaki can be used to make a gel stew.
Authentic teppanyaki dish is to sauté the ingredients until they are seven ripe, pour them into a hot iron plate, pour a sauce with a good flavor, and use the heat of the plate and steam to fully mature the ingredients. But now many chefs are afraid of trouble, and they are afraid that they have a bad grasp of the heat, often fry the dishes, and directly pour them on the iron plate to finish the work, which is suspected of cheating. Comparatively speaking, the requirements of the gel pot for the heat are extreme, not a little false, just a few minutes, must quickly turn the ingredients in the casserole evenly, otherwise, some are born and some are cooked, and the auditory impact of the gel is missing.
Gel raw sausage pot
In addition to pouring the dish into the hot iron plate, making a nourishing sound, a little visual and auditory freshness, the other and ordinary stir-fried dishes are not much different, sour, sweet, salty and spicy, all depending on the chef's preference skills, the taste is also different, as the second episode of "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2" "Heart Biography" said: there are a thousand pairs of hands, there are a thousand tastes. The gel pot has a relatively fixed seasoning and stir-frying mode, most of the gel pot, the ingredients are different, but the taste type is almost the same.
In my opinion, the teppanyaki eats only gimmicks, and the gel pot has a little more sincerity in addition to the gimmicks, so between the two, I prefer the gel pot.
Jelly yellow eel pot
When I was in Guangzhou, after hard work, I liked to taste the gelatinous sausages in the gel stew series in the food stalls and drink old Pearl River beer. The old Pearl River beer is slightly bitter, and guangzhou people use it as herbal tea. When the waiter brings a pot of gel raw sausage pot to the table, opens the lid, and quickly flips it, sees the steam rise, smells the aroma, listens to the geling sound inside the pot like a natural sound, and in an instant, the appetite rises from the empty abdomen to the tip of the tongue. At this time, it is inevitable to eagerly pick up a piece of raw intestines, stuff it into the mouth, close your eyes and chew, enjoy the crispness, let the strong fragrance stay between the lips and teeth, do not wait for the afterscent to dissipate, and then look up and take a sip of the iced old Pearl River, in a moment, you will understand what is refreshing. As a result, the hard work of the day disappeared.
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