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"Intangible Cultural Heritage" in Tangshan 丨 Qian'an Embroidery Niang Textile Native Cloth Production Technique: Traditional Old Native Cloth "Weave" Out of a New Life

author:Tangshan cultural tourism

Approaching the end of the year, the "embroidery lady handicraft workshop" in Gaoyinpu Village, Yangdianzi Street, Qian'an City, is getting busier. In the newly put into use of the exhibition hall, the click of the loom is incessant, and the interweaving of one longitude and one weft, the colorful cotton thread is woven into the earthen cloth, flowing like a rainbow. Exquisite bedding, bags, jewelry and other handmade native cloth New Year goods are stepping up production, express delivery to all parts of the country. In the evening, the "Embroidery Lady Handicraft Workshop" began to broadcast online again. The embroidered ladies are skillful, but they are a little shy in front of the camera.

In recent years, in order to lead the villagers to increase their income and become rich, and promote the employment and entrepreneurship of local women, the two committees of the village have taken advantage of the textile culture of the village, adopted the "company + cooperative + peasant household" model, and established a "embroidery shop" with collective holding and participation of the whole people, using traditional methods to weave native cloth, make bedding, bags and other handmade fabrics, so that the villagers can enjoy the benefits brought by the collective economy, and also make the "embroidery lady handicraft workshop" a beautiful business card of Gaoyinpu Village.

"Intangible Cultural Heritage" in Tangshan 丨 Qian'an Embroidery Niang Textile Native Cloth Production Technique: Traditional Old Native Cloth "Weave" Out of a New Life

Zhang Zhifei, a non-hereditary heir, gave technical guidance to the embroidery lady

Photo by reporter Yan Jun

Gaoyinpu Village textile technology has a long history. In the Qing Dynasty, the local indigenous cloth weaving technology reached its peak. At that time, the home spinning wheel sounded, the household loom sounded, and there were more than a dozen households making cloth and tailoring. It is said that in the early days of the Republic of China, Zhang Shen, a villager in Gaoyinpu, established a handicraft workshop, leading a donkey every day and waving a rattle to take over the work in the village, and later Zhang Shen accepted two apprentices, one was Fu Yunfeng of Guantou Mountain in Dawuli Township, and the other was Zhang Guofan of the village. During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, the Eighth Route Army in eastern Hebei sent Fu Yunfeng to organize dyeers and women to establish a quilt factory in the Wuli-Li-Wuyun Mountain Area in order to solve the problem of military supplies and logistical support in the base areas, making outstanding contributions to the War of Resistance. In the period of the People's Commune, the first production team in the village arranged for Zhang Guofan to set up a team-run enterprise handicraft workshop, and there were more than 100 women weaving cloth in the handicraft workshop at that time.

Zhang Yulan, the oldest embroidery lady in the village, is now more than 90 years old this year and is the third generation of heirs after Zhang Guofan. When Zhang Yulan was young, she knitted cloth for the handicraft workshop, weaving 20 feet a day (large cloth ruler, one foot is equivalent to 90 centimeters), she will weave quilts, mattress surfaces, sheets, in addition to weaving, she also makes pig shoes, cat shoes and other kinds of children's shoes with realistic images.

"I grew up watching my grandmother spin thread weaving, and making native cloth is not only interesting for me, but also has a special emotion." Zhang Yulan's grandson, Zhang Zhifei, is the contemporary inheritor of embroidered native cloth. He was personally passed down by Zhang Yulan and has already mastered traditional textile techniques. In the past, a loom could only weave four or five meters of cloth a day, but after Zhang Zhifei's innovation and improvement, it could weave more than 10 meters a day.

"Intangible Cultural Heritage" in Tangshan 丨 Qian'an Embroidery Niang Textile Native Cloth Production Technique: Traditional Old Native Cloth "Weave" Out of a New Life

Children learn to spin threads in the study tour experience area

Photo by Wang Yang

"Our embroidery weaving technique in Gaoyinpu Village is the fifth batch of municipal intangible cultural heritage representative projects in Tangshan. In the exhibition hall of the embroidery workshop, everyone can personally feel the beauty of the native cloth weaving technology. Let adults retrieve memories and let children understand the past. Explainer Wang Yang said.

According to reports, the embroidery girl textile soil cloth process, from cotton spinning thread to machine weaving, through the tie flower, bullet flower, spinning thread, thread, chaos thread, falling line, warp thread, brush thread, synthesis, seed breaking, comprehensive, hanging machine, bolt cloth, weaving, machine and other dozens of processes, it is more than twenty basic colors, after careful design, change out of more than 2,000 kinds of brilliant and colorful patterns.

The entire exhibition hall is divided into textile area, operation area, finished product area and research experience area, realizing the whole process from cotton to soil cloth production. In the textile area, several embroiderers wearing flower headscarves and flower aprons are concentrating on weaving cloth. According to reports, these looms were purchased by cadres of the two village committees from Lulong, Qinglong, Qianxi, and other places. The embroiderers working here are all women from Gaoyinpu Village, the youngest is 40 years old, and the oldest is 73 years old. The embroidery lady has a fixed income every month, and there is also a family version of the handicraft workshop, and she can also work at home. At present, the embroidery workshop has solved the employment problem for more than 120 women in the village.

In the operation area, various tools such as spinning wheels are placed, and processes such as photo cloth, weaving, walking, and sewing can be carried out. Wang Yang told reporters that many products are processed here.

"Embroidery Lady Handicraft Workshop" has more than 100 embroidery women, with colorful cotton, pure cotton yarn as raw materials, more than 100 feet of textile home weaving fabric per day, more than 100 handmade tourism craft bags, 60 health care pillows, 30 sheets and bedspreads, and can customize scarves, bath towels, clothing, etc. according to customer needs, with an average daily sales of 5,000 yuan. After all production is completed, it can attract 500 women to work, and can produce 400 handmade travel bags and various handmade leisure items (sets) every day, with an annual output value of 12 million yuan and profits and taxes of 2 million yuan. In 2017, in the "Tangshan Supply and Marketing Cup" tourism product competition, the products of "Xiuniang Handicraft Workshop" won the second prize and were identified as "Tangshan Tourism Recommended Products" by Tangshan Tourism Bureau; "Embroidery Niang Handicraft Workshop" won the title of "2017 Top Ten Tourism Commodity Characteristic Enterprises".

"Intangible Cultural Heritage" in Tangshan 丨 Qian'an Embroidery Niang Textile Native Cloth Production Technique: Traditional Old Native Cloth "Weave" Out of a New Life

The embroidery lady displays beautiful native cloth

With the hot sales of products, there are constantly merchants, consumers to Gaoyinpu village to investigate, visit, the two committees of the village and the two committees around the traditional textile culture, aiming at expanding the industrial chain of the combination of culture and tourism, relying on the "embroidery lady handicraft workshop" and gaoyin shop cooking two major characteristics of the development of tourism industry, tourists can experience the noodle stall, cotton sticks, spinning, weaving, making fabric paintings, tie-dyeing, batik, papermaking and stone grinding soybean milk and other more than 10 experience projects, in recent years, the number of visitors to experience reached 160,000 times, "embroidery lady handicraft workshop" has also been obtained "Hebei Province Skillful Hand Poverty Alleviation Demonstration Base" and "National Advanced Collective for Building Meritorious Service" and other honorary titles. In 2020, Gaoyinpu Village achieved a collective economic income of 350,000 yuan.

The development of the collective economy has provided a material guarantee for the revitalization of the rural areas of Gaoyinpu Village. In recent years, Gaoyinpu Village has continuously transformed the results of the growing collective economic into the well-being of villagers, paved bricks and built nearly 20,000 square meters of roads, installed more than 100 street lamps, planted more than 3,000 seedlings, built a villagers' square and a party building square, and the village looked brand new.

At present, the village is planning the overall area of the village of 2200 mu, and strives to use three to five years to invest 300 million yuan to create a "Changzu Garden" cultural tourism business card that integrates leisure tourism, sightseeing experience, shopping and catering, production and picking, and realizes the leapfrog development of the collective economy.

Source | Bohai Rim News Network

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