Last week
Collecting master Ma Weidu came to Chengdu as a guest
"Chengdu snacks are famous, as soon as you get off the plane, you go straight to the snacks"
This is the expectation of Chengdu snacks as a cultural circle
But the evaluation received was
Hong Kong true
The Life Committee felt that any Chengdu person
I couldn't stand to see this evaluation
Not because it's sour
It's too real
Today, the life committee will come to set aside a ha
The story of those old-fashioned snacks
01
True qualifications of the old brand
Live in the memory of old Chengdu
No food, no Chengdu, no old food, not old Chengdu memory.
Born there, Chengdu's really qualified old brand, harvested too much of the stomach of old Chengdu. Since Ma Weidu came to eat the Dragon Scribe, the Life Committee put aside how brilliant the Dragon Scribe was.
According to the family living in Jinhuaguan, the 78-year-old Chengdu Zhou mother-in-law said that when I was a child, I had to pass by the dragon scribbler every day when I went to school, and when the sky was just dark, the guy used a large cauldron to start boiling chicken soup, boiling more than a dozen at a time, about twice a week, using fresh soup as the soup base of the dragon copyist, and the transparent orange butter oil of the earth chicken soup is the most essence of the dragon copyer. Although the Dragon Scribe was just a small façade at the time, she had to twist to her parents to eat once a week, and the taste was simply not swinging.
Picture @ Ma Weidu
And now the old friend came to Chengdu to find Zhou Mother-in-law to reminisce about the past, when it comes to Chengdu's time-honored snacks, she does not recommend trying the dragon copyist, because she knows: behind the plaque of the dragon copyist, the taste of old Chengdu has long disappeared.
For the current dragon copyer, excellent netizens commented: Dragon copyist, one of the most difficult snacks.
In fact, in Chengdu, not only is the dragon copyist, but also a large area of the old brand name snack collapse way down. Dumplings, small Tan bean flowers, Lai tangyuan, beef burnt cakes, Guyue Hu Sanhe mud and husband and wife lung slices, which once raised the stomachs of Chengdu people, seem to be a collective evil, one is more difficult to eat than the other. Although the taste of Han buns can still be eaten, it is too far worse than the varieties of snow stuffing, sauerkraut filling, etc. in the past!
02
Long-established archway
Real snacks in the wandering
The skin of Chengdu real snacks is really about to be finished by the old brand.
On the Internet, there are always some wandering singers who make everyone sigh, stars are singing falsely, singers are wandering. As everyone knows, this sentence is placed on the old snack, and the same applies.
Those old brands with plaques hanging on the doors, except for the old Chengdu grandpa and aunt who are nostalgic to eat a ha, are generally not allowed to glance at the passing. Watching them become more and more difficult to eat, but there are still many tourists stepping on the thunder, some netizens said: I really want to stand in the doorway, with a kind tone to persuade them, don't go.
Image: 123 table lamps
Is Chengdu, as the capital of gastronomy, the real snacks extinct? Chengdu people naturally laugh and don't say anything, because they know that if they want to eat real snacks in Chengdu, they can only arch into the corner of the click corner. Wenshu Monastery's sweet water surface and cold powder, Dan dan noodles on East Pig City Street, egg baking cake behind Xinhua Park, fat sausage powder on Caotang North Road, Chen Liang powder Chinese restaurant in Dongzikou, beef restaurant opposite the sixth branch of the Tuqiao Traffic Police... (Actually dared to list them one by one, the committee members found that they were going to be exhausted to death)
Wenshu Monastery Sweet Water Source: Tong Avril
Xinhua Park egg baking cake Photo: Judy15729
Some people may think that the efficiency of one stop is too low, so it is recommended to recommend some food streets. The forbidden place of the fat man near 339 is peaceful, the most enchanting food street near the wide and narrow alleys - Kuixing Lou, the fragrant alley with a slight literary atmosphere along the Funan River, the queue to the barren food street to carry the construction road... (Hey, if you list it again, you will chop your hands, because you can't finish the list at all)
Note, what zi Jinli, wide and narrow alleys, Chunxi Road, Zongfu Road Oh, foodies on the table to bother Ha, these places are reserved for foreign tourists, things are expensive, food is also special processing according to the taste of tourists, anyway, a "spicy" word to summarize the taste of Chengdu.
Wide and narrow alleys
Authentic Chengdu foodies understand that the real delicacy is not high or low. On an ordinary street, when you see private cars, battery cars, bicycles piled up, and there are long queues, you generally go to a ha, you are not allowed to turn.
Remember, real snacks never need to erect arches!
03
Fallen old-fashioned
Invisible regulator
I can't help but ask, why are these old brands, once proud of being a city, now they are all chicken feathers?
The reason behind this, the life committee members feel that there are three aspects: one is that the old brands lie on the honors of the past and eat the old books; the second is that the market supervision is not refined; and the third is that consumers are too accustomed to these old brands that rely on the old and sell the old.
Once a long-established brand, are self-employed to rent a shop, set up a small stall, and then a little bit is to push a tricycle or pick a flat burden, while walking while selling, they can let others remember, relying on not the palatial storefront, but the real taste. But then engaged in public-private partnerships, and gradually the old brand became a lonely signboard...
Taikoo Li Egg Baked Cake Grandpa Picture according to Bruce's little fan girl
Now the old brand, just like the canteen fried cauldron dish, is not difficult to eat, so many tourists, in order to meet more needs, "quality and quantity" these four words have long been thrown to the cloud of nine, constantly overdrafting the honor won step by step, with the phrase "lying on the old brand to eat the old book" to describe, it is more appropriate.
Of course, the lack of fine market supervision is also one of the reasons. Although many old brands have a hundred years of history, this should not become a vacuum of supervision, if the old brands do not keep pace with the times, they can only be photographed on the beach by latecomers.
Recommendation 1: Re-excavate and sort out the standards of time-honored snacks, and try to standardize in terms of quality, portion size and taste;
Suggestion 2: Do more social surveys, select all kinds of excellent snacks every year, make satisfaction rankings, let the really delicious snacks speak for Chengdu, and let Mr. Nanguo, who is mixed with water and fish, can't mix;
Recommendation 3: Irregular surprise inspection of food hygiene conditions in the store, and heavy penalties for failure to meet the standards;
Ironically: on May 30, the Chengdu Municipal Supervision Bureau announced a news that the new and time-honored hot pots such as Shu Jiuxiang, Da miao and Fengwang Longmen did not detect the "duck" ingredient in duck blood, so the embarrassing result, the life committee can only hehe. After seeing this news, my colleague added a sentence: A friend from outside my country came to Chengdu to play, and actually said that Jinli's time-honored snacks were still wide, and suddenly realized that they had pulled the overall level of Chengdu snacks down indefinitely.
Of course, there are tourists, really these old brands of hanging sheepskins to sell dog meat to play the habit, the current network is so developed, the committee members beg you, eat what is not delicious old brand, you can completely spit on the Internet, a pass ten, ten pass a hundred, less than one person to consume, the world will have more harmony and warmth.
Chengdu: If you continue to sauce purple, I am afraid that all tourists can only cut the fly restaurant to taste the real old-fashioned taste.
04
The crows under the world are as black as black
Chengdu's time-honored brand is just a microcosm
The degeneration of Chengdu's time-honored brands is only the tip of the iceberg of the country's time-honored brands.
Speaking of the country's old brands, the top three fallen ones are: Beijing Quanjude, Tianjin Dogbulu, and Chengdu Dragon Scribe. Back then, going to Beijing to eat roast duck and climbing the Great Wall were two equally important things for tourists. At that time, going to Beijing and eating a roast duck in Quanjude was the dream of many tourists, and it was cheap and good.
Image @Elizabeth is too tired
But after the 90s, Quanjude roast duck began to rise in price, and is the kind of rise that many people can't afford to eat, in recent years, Quanjude has opened branches everywhere, the stalls are getting bigger and bigger, but the taste is getting worse and worse, now order a roast duck, about 300 yuan, but also charge ten percent service fee, and Quanjude also cooperates with tourist groups around the world, tourists to Beijing after being directly arranged to Quanjude, feel that tourists into Quanjude, like fish on the chopping board.
Such an operation is fraught with dangers. In Quanjude's 2018 performance express report on March 17, its net profit was 73.04 million yuan, 46.29% less than 2017, which is equivalent to a waist cut, and this is also the first time that Quanjude's annual profit fell below the 100 million yuan mark since its listing in 2007. This roasted "duck of 155 years" smelled of burnt.
As for the Tianjin dog ignoring the bun, the committee members heard the Language teacher say in elementary school, and later this snack appeared in the Tianjin cross-talk circle and spring evening, which can be described as an infinite scenery. But in the past two years, the dog has also been complained about by various people, and now the people of Tianjin are eager to pull a banner at the railway station and the airport to write: Don't eat the dog and ignore the bun! 48 yuan a cage is really not as good as the southern provinces 6 yuan a cage of delicious.
Image @ Wonderful Wonderful World
As early as 2016, Tianjin Dog ignored it and officially landed on the capital market, and it is no problem to say "listed" in a broad sense. On April 15, Dogbury Company announced its 2018 annual report, revenue over 100 million, net profit of more than 20 million, in the eyes of many people, Dog ignore is just a bun shop, but after years of development, has gradually become a producer and seller of the frozen food industry, about 70% of its sales from frozen food and marinade meat products, and buns have nothing to do.
Compared with quick-frozen food, dog bun shops have now been frequently closed, in ten years, only in the Beijing area has been reduced by 11, by 2018, the entire Beijing city dog buns only wangfujing and Qianmen two stores, and these two stores are also very skimpy every day, usually less than 50% attendance rate. Many netizens have said: a bun of 8 pieces, really disturbed!
Born in Chengdu, there is a reason why the reputation of the dragon is now so bad that it is explosive. Last year, the last franchise store of the Dragon Raider in the main city of Chongqing was closed, which means that the Chengdu Dragon Scribe, which once overshadowed Chongqing's local long-established brand, left the market after 8 years of entering Chongqing, but it is not worth lamenting at all.
Perhaps everyone has found that the three words of franchise stores, once they are not done well, are synonymous with inferior quality. The commissioners do not recognize franchise stores, the world-renowned McDonald's and KFC, are not also franchisees? The key is how to achieve consistent quality control, not because of different regions, or once you enter the capital market, quality control is very different, which is undoubtedly the biggest harm to the brand.
Saying these three typical, is to prove one thing, when the three words of the old brand are addicted to the capital market, its former taste will no longer be pure, and today's old brand has not become better, does not understand inheritance, but fell into the eyes of money, the tradition is directly abandoned!
05
Taste in Sichuan, food in Chengdu
Chengdu without time-honored snacks is incomplete
Thanks to Ma Ye, his honesty has once again torn open the fig leaf of Chengdu's time-honored brand.
Long ago, the committee members heard the pertinent advice of Chengdu locals to tourists: eat time-honored local snacks, do not go to Chunxi Road, do not go to wide and narrow alleys, do not go to Jinli, these popular attractions, these places are prepared for tourists, the quality can not be guaranteed.
Jinli tourist photo
However, don't be a hard time to come to Chengdu, dressed up, if there are a few companions around, others want to taste the old Chengdu snacks, but you want another one to go to the fly restaurant, this is indeed a bit of a punch, and then forced to choose those who look palatially decorated old-fashioned, go once do not want to go to the second consumer experience, for the city of Chengdu, is not a damage?
Back in his hometown, he will publicize his experience of Chengdu's time-honored cuisine, and those who originally wanted to come would inevitably hesitate or choose another city. And this is a kind of harm to the tourism development of the city.
The collapse of the old brand, like a domino, will eventually smash a large piece. But the real regret is actually the people who live in this city and really love the city.
I hope that after many years, Chengdu will no longer have this harsh sentence "That is for tourists to eat".
- END -
Editor: Life Commissioner · Lens
Editor: Art Class Representative · Amy
Editor-in-Chief: Class Leader Orange
Unauthorized reproduction is prohibited