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<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > a five-grain bun shop</h1>
The bun shop is next to the largest hospital in Tongchuan, the Mine Hospital, a very cramped storefront that stubbornly sells only two kinds of food: porridge and buns. There are two options for porridge: black rice porridge and barley porridge, while buns are only meat buns and vegetarian buns.
A few women who were always chattering kept wrapping buns in the shop, and the shop was always filled with white smoke with a strong smell of fragrant buns. The only man in the shop should be the boss. He and they always chatted happily in Henan dialect, joking, and occasionally flirting with each other.
It was the most innocuous little shop I'd ever seen: it was so narrow and so chaotic, the kitchen and the place where diners ate were mixed together, and on both sides of the wall were narrow strips of tables piled high on top of small mountain-like plates, large vinegar bottles, bowls of oily spices, and packed foam bowls. Diners, on the other hand, curled up at small tables and placed a cage of white smoke buns and sticky porridge in the few empty seats.
The little shop was so cramped and so chaotic, but its business was surprisingly good, and from morning to night, the little shop was always packed with diners. Every morning, there are often waiting guests at the door, impatiently waiting for the guys inside to eat quickly, while shouting: "Black rice porridge, a cage of meat buns!" One side squeezed into the small room of white smoke and crowds.
How much I miss the porridge for one dollar and one bowl in the five-grain bun shop, the vegetarian bun for two dollars and the meat bun for three dollars.
The sticky black rice porridge is sweet and jinjin, the vegetarian bun stuffed with winter melon has a soft white skin, the bun is dipped in sour and spicy ingredients, softly sent to the mouth, and then mixed with the sweet and smooth texture of the porridge, the taste is shouted from all directions to be comfortable. Listening to the chattering laughter of the men and women in the dark blue apron behind me, the three yuan every morning always made me feel that the life of the people of Tongchuan was really comfortable.
Today, when I woke up in the morning in Shenzhen, it was cold outside, and my stomach was gently screaming with hunger, and suddenly I remembered the chaotic little bun shop in the far town of doing nothing, the women and men who were always giggling, the room where there was soft white smoke, and the drawer of beautiful buns and the black rice porridge that made people forget the cold at once.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Xiang Bali Restaurant</h1>
Since the highway from Xi'an to Yan'an, Tongchuan, located in the middle of these two points, has poured in many northern Shaanxi people, who say "I" when they are "hungry" with a long bend in the middle, they are shrewd and capable, and many people have opened restaurants in Tongchuan.
The restaurant called "XiangBa Li" was opened by a person from northern Shaanxi. They rented two rooms next to each other, one for the kitchen, and the other for seven or eight simple square tables covered with flowery plastic table tops.
In winter, walking into this unheated room, you can almost see the white cold, the diners shrink their necks, sit down with all their knowledge, and shout at the woman in northern Shaanxi who has high cheekbones: "A meat sandwich bun, pure and thin, and then a small bowl of dumplings, don't put green onions and MSG!" ”
That woman has an amazing memory, her northern Shaanxi dialect is crisp and raw like a freshly beaten winter date, Ding Dang swirled to pass the strange requests of guests from all directions to the kitchen without leaking: small bowls should not be spicy, large bowls should be more spicy, wontons should not be put in coriander, casserole put more onions...
I love to eat fragrant meat sandwich steamed buns, in Shenzhen for so many years, never eaten such a tasteful, the baked cake is slightly crisp and jindao, hot slices open, sandwiched into the juice of fragrant minced meat. The pure lean meat sandwich bun is two dollars and five one, while the fat and thin one is only two dollars.
Every time I say, "Meat sandwich buns, more fat meat!" "When the creamy meat foam mixed with the aroma of the burnt cake is introduced, the taste is lost in a ball of extreme satisfaction, and the cold of the small shop seems to be gone. The oil in the bun oozed out and was printed on the small dark yellow paper bag of the bun, which was covered with a circle of oily transparency.
I like to use a small bowl of wontons with meat sandwiches, which is the most common lunch I have in Tongchuan. I regret that tongchuan rarely sells soba noodles in recent years, and most restaurants sell white-faced dumplings.
How I miss the summer when I was a child, the man downstairs shouted in a clear voice, "Soba wonton sold ~~" We bought back the black and shiny wonton and ate it coldly, and the rustic atmosphere emitted by the very wild soba noodles was closely related to the memories of childhood, which made me unforgettable.
However, now, even if I return to Tongchuan, I will never be able to eat the black soba noodles, and I can only find some familiar past in the white fat and suspicious bird. The dumplings are soaked in a rich soup, and the soup is always full of green coriander leaves, like a delicate little umbrella, blooming.
A mouthful of warm dumplings, a mouthful of oily meat sandwich buns, and then listening to the crisp jujube-like female voice of northern Shaanxi roaring back and forth, although it was snowing outside the door and the cold was compelling, but the warmth and satisfaction in the mouth and heart at this moment was unquestionable.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > laozuo family lamb steamed bun</h1>
When it comes to the best lamb steamed bun in Tongchuan, people in our school have two different opinions: Lao Ma Jia or Lao Zuo Jia. People who hold every opinion have a hard time convincing the other side. I have eaten the old Majia lamb steamed bun, the soup is umami, sugar, garlic is big and crisp and sweet, but the kind of freshness I have experienced in the Hanji Shaanxi restaurant on Baden Street in Shenzhen is not surprising. In order to judge which one is the best, I went to taste the old Left family lamb steamed bun under the guidance of my mother.
The railroad, which was lined with crooked bungalows on both sides, was almost abandoned, and by the very fortuitous circumstances, the train that pulled coal rumbled by, reminding me of the train with its blood-red wheels driving like a monster when I was a child. Through this railway that has been sealed in the depths of memory, and then walk through the merchant market that is being closed for major repairs, the head of the road is the old left family lamb steamed bun restaurant.
There were several large round tables, large enough to sit one or twenty people at the same time, because there was no small table for two people to eat, and in most cases, people who did not know each other had to gather in front of a table.
The tongchuan people were obviously very accustomed to such a stage, and the later people never said hello, and sat next to a person who was eating with a sullen head, staring at him in shock until his own lamb bubble came up.
In addition to the huge table, what surprised me more here was the large aluminum basin containing spicy seeds, as large as the washbasin at home, and the entire old left family only had this one basin containing spicy seeds. After a diner scooped the spicy seeds with a large spoon, the guys in the running hall took the large washbasin away, and then threw it to another table with a "bang", and this only huge aluminum basin moved between several tables, and the scene was very proud of the good man of Liangshan, which made me think that the old Zuo family was really simple and cute.
Mom wants three or two high-quality lamb bubbles, and I want two or two high-quality ones. The so-called high quality, that is, the lamb slices are put a lot, so that people can better experience the pleasure of eating large pieces of meat.
The long-awaited bowl of lamb bubbles was served, and the tinyly sliced burnt bread was submerged in thick white soup, large pieces of black fungus, thick lamb slices and wisps of vermicelli.
I scooped a large spoonful of spicy seeds from the large, extensive aluminum basin and saw the white soup turn into a bright red, accompanied by sour and crisp sugar garlic and kimchi, and when I first took the first bite, I had a moment of tremor and confusion: so fresh, fragrant, warm, and the wonderful layers of loops.
Growing up so big, I have never eaten such a fresh and wonderful lamb steamed bun, and I am sure that the number one lamb steamed bun in Tongchuan is here.
Because it was so delicious, the two or two high-quality lamb bubbles were almost poured into my mouth, and I didn't taste it at all. Until the end of a bowl, I couldn't find any other adjectives except for the constant dizziness of my brain and the extreme warmth in my stomach. I know, I'll come a second time, a third time later... I said to my mother, "Because of the lamb bubbles of the old Zuo family, I will often return to Tongchuan." ”
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > the soup bun of the old Sun family </h1>
Tongchuan's restaurants like this naming format: what to eat at the old home, the boss's surname is the restaurant's signboard, which has a strong solemnity and passes on to diners a strong sense of dependence: such as the old Left family, the old Ma family, and the old Sun family.
At the beginning of December 2007, my first dinner when I returned to Tongchuan was taken by my mother to the old Sun family soup bun shop to solve the problem. It was late, and the dim light shone on the empty tables and the lazy waiters.
At a table, several diners are eating buns, eating cold dishes and drinking white wine. They gulped their cigarettes, and the restaurant was filled with the smell of the small restaurants of the northern winter: in the gray warmth, mixed with the smell of smoke, wine and vinegar in cold dishes, accompanied by the sound of chatter.
This complex smell and sound stunned me for a moment, and I hadn't felt this very northern smell in years in the South.
The soup buns here are very cheap, vegan buns for three dollars a cage, and five dollars for meat. Vegetarian buns are filled with ground skin and egg fillings; meat buns are divided into three kinds of fresh filling, beef filling and lamb filling. The steamed cage had turned black and shiny, and inside it lay ten buns that had collapsed softly because they had been filled with soup.
I always like to order the three fresh stuffed buns here, eat the soup buns with extra care, use chopsticks to tightly clamp the small bun on the top of the bun, gently bite open a small bite, rather than eating the bun, it is better to suck the bun. The oily and fresh soup inside the bun is slowly and warmly poured into the mouth, and the tongue feels like a cloud steaming mist, and some of it is fluttering. When the soup is gone, bite open the bun skin a little bit, taste a large round meat filling and a very resistant bun skin, just like a song, from the climax of sucking soup water, a little bit into the best state of filling. At the end of the song, clip another bun and start a new track.
When I was in college in Xi'an, one of our dormitory girls would occasionally go to Jia's house on West Avenue to eat soup buns, and at that time there were different shops opened by Brother Jia Er and Jia San, and I couldn't remember which brother's shop I went to, but I remembered that when I first carefully drank soup buns under the guidance of experienced people, the moment the soup juice was introduced to me with extreme beauty and surprise.
Such a wonderful taste has become the out-of-print standard for tasting the soup buns, and in the future, every time I eat the soup buns, I will always compare the current feeling with the drinking Jia family soup buns, and none of them can surpass the Jia family, including the small six soup buns that have been open in Shenzhen for several years and ended up darkly.
But this time, the old Sun family soup bun seems to be different, I really found the feeling of the Jia family soup bun many years ago: thin skin, thick soup, fresh filling, big, plus the dark and heavy winter night outside the house, it is exactly the same cold, at this time the restaurant flows with almost the same smell as the year, many scenes of that year are all printed on top of each other, this cage soup bun let me eat and eat, suddenly walked back to the past, fell into confusion.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > favorite small hot pot</h1>
Mom said that Tongchuan has been popular in eating small hot pots over the years: one person has a very miniature small pot, holding the bottom of the tomato pot, the bottom of the spicy pot or the bottom of the clear soup pot. The induction cooker is embedded in the tabletop, and each person has lamb, fat beef, tender tofu, translucent wide powder skin and various fungi in their own small pots.
I've heard of small hot pot, but never eaten in Shenzhen. This time, my mother led me to the Zhongyi small hot pot restaurant and let me appreciate the favorite food of the people of Tongchuan in winter.
The small aluminium pot is very mini and the size of a bowl. I asked for the bottom of the spicy pot, my mother asked for the bottom of the tomato pot, and when I knew that this pot of soup only cost two dollars, I opened my mouth. We put the small pots on the induction cooker in front of us, turned the fire to the maximum, patiently waited for the unhappy soup to slowly spit out a circle of ripples, and then grunted and boiled out pieces of fish eye bubbles.
At this time, the frozen lamb rolls for four dollars a plate, tofu for two dollars a plate, enoki mushrooms, powder skin, lettuce, etc., are put into the pot, watching them roll up and down in a ball of fire.
Favorite small hot pot
The hot tofu chunks flutter softly with white smoke, the mushrooms are slightly crisp in their sweetness, and my favorite wide pink skin is obediently rolled into a ball, nestled in the red oil dots with sesame seeds.
Take a bite of these cute foods that are delicately processed in a small hot pot, and slowly enjoy the softness of tofu, the crispness of enoki mushrooms, and the smoothness of the powder skin. Cause by the excitement, and then pick up a large piece of lamb rolls, in the boiling soup up and down left and right, accurately fished up, sent to the mouth, full of vegetarian food after the ultimate freshness of lamb, eat the beauty of hot pot, about here.
One of the interesting things about eating a small hot pot is that it abandons the chaotic feeling of a group of people around a large cauldron without a rule, and more reflects the different creativity and preferences of each person. Surrounding the fluttering little aluminum pot of his own, he slowly and methodically decided to first shabu-shabu, and then shabu-shabu, as if guarding his own self-reserved land, planting whatever he wanted, planting whatever he wanted, and having the happiness and ease of being the master of the house.
I tasted the food that came out of the bottom of my mother's tomato pot, and found that there was more sour and sweet charm than the food that came out of the bottom of the spicy pot, and the things that came out of the bottom of the spicy pot were all hot and spicy, like a monster that emitted sulfur smoke, eating and eating, all the food cloaked in spicy clothes made people unable to appreciate its own nature and beauty. So I made up my mind that next time I would come to this small hot pot restaurant, a fixed tomato pot bottom.
I remember saying to a friend that eating hot pot can best reflect the helplessness of life: when the hot pot is first laid out, the exquisite soup base, neat and colorful food is like the regularity and beauty of life at the beginning; eating hot pot progresses to the middle stage, the cup and plate are messy, the food is a little bit broken, the scene is like a middle-aged man who has experienced wind and rain; the hot pot eats to the end, the soup base is chaotic, the oil is full of a layer, the food on the plate can no longer be found, the steaming just now becomes a mess of the cold pan cold dish, at that time, with a full stomach, and then look at all this, Suddenly, I found that it was tasteless, and the desolation and loneliness of the twilight years of life suddenly emerged.
Every time I eat hot pot, it seems to have walked quickly in a miniature version of my life, and I am most afraid of experiencing the mess and loneliness at the end of the song, so every time I eat hot pot, I will be sad.
Then, the next time, I will eat the favorite small hot pot again, and I will not come again.
(End of full text)
(Originally written on February 26, 2008)
(The picture of this article is from the network)
(Click "Learn more" at the end of the article: "Light and nutritious oatmeal porridge")
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