Speaking of the appetizer, there is a sentence in "Hou Chibi Fu": "There are guests without wine, there is wine without food, the moon is white and the wind is clear, so what a good night!" "A meal and drink, some people have no wine, no fun; there is wine without food, dull taste." When drinking wine, there is a drink dish, which seems to add a leisurely leisure.
If you ask everyone what is your favorite appetizer? That's probably "a thousand Hamlets in a thousand readers' hearts." But who eats the wine dish and eats it elegantly? In the end, it is still the ancients - the Song people Su Shunqin took the "Book of Han" to drink, and the Qing people's Bao Zhupo took the "Departure from the Troubles" to drink. But then again, drinking wine and eating vegetables is just a comfortable and happy, and the "appetizers" of those old gourmets in the Republic of China really relieve their hunger.
1. The taste of the appetizer
Appetizers of course refer to delicacies, but this delicacy is more than mountain treasures and seafood. It is said that before the Qing Dynasty "strange hero" Jin Shengsi was killed, he said in a letter to his son's family: "Salt vegetables are eaten with soybeans, and there is a great taste of walnuts." "True drinkers, appetizers do not need luxury but know how to pay attention, ordinary snacks can be drunk, and most importantly, they will not steal the limelight of wine."
<h4 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Zhang Xueliang's "wrong dish"</h4>
Zhang Xueliang's family has a chef named Wang Baotian, who cooks a good home-cooked dish, and this person has a good dish called "wrong dish". Whenever the late autumn frost and snow fell, Wang Baotian would chop up various fresh vegetables, soak them in shrimp oil, seal them in the altar, pickle several wrong dishes from the big tile altars, and then take them out in the spring of the following year to give Zhang Xueliang a meal. This dish is characterized by crisp crispness, tender green appetizers, and Zhang Xueliang calls it the representative of small dishes in Liao cuisine.
Liang Shiqiu's "Green Clam"
Mr. Liang Shiqiu, a famous foodie in modern times, once mentioned a small dish in "Yashe Talks About Eating" - green clams.
"In the Beiping Shandong restaurant, there is a famous dish 'stewed clams'. The so-called green clams, one inch long, the shell surface is light blue, smooth and clean, the flesh is slightly yellow, and it is the cleanest among clams. The method is simple, first blanch in boiling water, then break the shells, one by one are placed on the plate, sprinkled with cooking wine ginger pepper, you can serve, for the best wine. ”
Lu Xun's "Bean..."
Mr. Lu Xun loves to eat, and he already loves to eat it so much that I don't know which appetizer to use to sum up his taste. At the same time, he is also good at drinking, always calling friends and friends, and drinking every time he eats. He drank the most with Yu Dafu, who once described: "He has always been very particular about stimulants such as tobacco and alcohol. He didn't have a lot of it, but he always liked to drink a little. ”
Guangheju's fried waist flowers, spicy fish meal skin, casserole tofu, and the soft fried liver tip of Long Haixuan on West Chang'an Avenue are All Lu Xun's favorite appetizers. In his novel "On the Restaurant", he also mentioned several things: oil tofu (with more spicy sauce), fennel beans, frozen meat and dried green fish.
Oil tofu, i.e. boiled oil tofu. Zhou Zuoren said in "Characters in Lu Xun's Novel Restaurant" that this kind of oil tofu is two inches long, one inch wide, and yellowish, commonly known as long oil tofu. Cook in white water until 80:00 or 9, add salty brine, and cook until soft and sticky. The hotel's marinade is difficult for the average family to replicate, because the hotel dishes are varied and high-grade, and the quality of the juice after cooking is more thick and flavorful. Lu Xun, who has eaten other signature dishes of the Tai Yong Hotel, but still has a fondness for oil tofu with only 3 copper yuan per piece, and wants to eat a bite of sweet Shao wine and bite a bite of oil tofu full of fresh brine, which is a very comfortable experience.
Fennel beans are a very close snack, and people like Kong Yiji who have money to buy wine and no money to buy vegetables can also eat it with taste. Although the preparation method is simple, it is also exquisite: it must be picked green dried broad beans; in the past, you had to add some Monsanto saccharin (without sugar); in addition, soy sauce is better, and there was a children's song that sang: "Humble and happy soy sauce", only these two brands of soy sauce taste more delicious. Nowadays, the production of fennel beans is not as serious as before, and outsiders order this object mostly for the occasion, and it is difficult to eat it once and have a second time. But Lu Xun has feelings for this thing, and second, when old friends meet, he has a lot to talk about, fennel beans can kill time the most, a sip of wine, a few beans, just to tell the old feelings.
Frozen meat, also known as pork, can often be seen in ancient water towns such as Zhujiajiao and Wuzhen. It uses pork rib meat, fat and lean, and tied firmly with shell silk, which is a traditional home-cooked dish in Shaoxing. Good meat is fresh and fresh, oily but not greasy, crisp in the mouth, and fragrant in the mouth.
Dried green fish is also shaoxing traditional wine food, Lu Xun in Beijing, Shanghai, if someone to Shaoxing, he often has to entrust people to bring tea oil dried fish and sauce duck, but also must be The Tai Yong Hotel. In the first month, Shaoxing people go to relatives, and the golden partner before the meal is dried fish and old wine.
2. The love of the appetizer
Who says that the one who can serve wine must be a dish? Since the ancients could drink with classics, we can also use other wines, such as a beautiful love that is cherished in the heart.
It was one day in 1932, Yu Dafu and his wife invited Lu Xun and Liu Yazi to a banquet in Jufeng Garden, and several people drank and chatted, and the atmosphere was harmonious. At that time, Lu Xun had a son in his later years, and he hurt his wife Xu Guangping very much, and in the few years after she gave birth, Lu Xun spent a lot of effort to take care of their mother and son. At that time, Yu Dafu quipped at the dinner table: "You have worked hard all these years!" Lu Xun listened slightly shyly, and then replied: "Horizontal eyebrows are cold to a thousand fingers, and bow down to be a widow cow." It turned out that the golden sentence in Lu Xun's "Self-Deprecation" actually came from such a dialogue on the wine table, completely without the revolutionary tone of charging into the battlefield, but with more of a strong sense of humanity.
Three or five friends, pushing the heart, is a friendship. And between the two of them, the sword love is deep, and it is another love.
At the beginning of this article, it is actually mentioned that Su Shi wanted to drink, the guests got fish, and when they were worried about no wine, the woman in the family resolved the embarrassment with a sentence that seemed bland, chewed up and had a little taste - "I have a bucket of wine, hidden for a long time, to wait for the son's needs from time to time", which is Su Shi's second virtuous wife Wang Yanzhi.
Another passage, in the voice of those who understand Hu Shi's marriage, will not help but be guan'er, but also as an interesting "appetizer":
Hu Shi good wine, once to Qingdao. Qingdao University's famous "Eight Immortals in Wine" all attended the ceremony. These "eight immortals" are Yang Zhensheng, Liang Shiqiu, Zhao Taiyou, Wen Yiduo, Chen Jichao, Liu Kangfu, Deng Zhongcun and other seven professors and the famous crescent moon female poet Fang Lingru, who often gather together to drink happily, almost "a small drink in three days, a big feast on five days, an open fist order, thirty pounds of flower carvings and an altar, and an altar for overnight." When Hu Shi saw this posture, he knew that he was invincible, and quickly took out the treasure from his arms, and everyone fixed their eyes on it, it was a ring, and there were two words engraved on it - "ring unitary". Everyone was confused, Hu Shi explained that this was originally carved by Mrs. Jiang Dongxiu in order to persuade herself to quit drinking, because the cultural level was not high, she mistakenly carved "quitting drinking" into "quitting unitary", everyone saw it, and knew that there was an original wife in his family who was as hot as a "heroine", and he did not dare to embarrass Hu Shi anymore.
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If friendship can be used as a warm appetizer, then some people use high-quality wine as a "flavored" appetizer, which makes people think back to it as a comfortable meal.
Mr. Wang Zengqi mentioned in "Five Tastes" that he once used green peppers to grill on the fire with several Guizhou classmates and dipped in salt water under wine. And he usually drinks almost every day, pig edamame pods, pickle roast crucian carp, smoked meat, tea eggs, home-cooked tofu, fried peanuts are all appetizers that suit his taste. It is advisable for him to drink two or three or two at a time, and when he drinks three or four, the words begin to increase. And Wang Lao's wine style, wine, and wine morality are excellent, never cheating, nor overlording people, persuading people to drink. His way of displaying is Nengkan, from the north of the sky and the south sea, to the wonders of ancient times, to the folk customs, special products, and everything. This is simply the best classroom for those present to receive knowledge.
As for the best appetizers, it's always in everyone's heart. Last time, a reader left a message saying: "The best appetizer is not what to eat, but who to drink with." I believe this is also the answer in the hearts of many people, right?
At present, in the extraordinary period, you can't go out to get together, accompany your family, prepare a few peanuts, brine, these wine dishes, and steaming big warm pots, around the stove night talk, but also have a different taste!
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