This year, who has beijing snacks provoked? When it comes to the list of the most difficult snacks in the country, Beijing snacks must rank in the top three. A "Why Beijing snacks are hard to eat" is even more popular on the whole network. To know:
Where tourists come to Beijing, specially looking for a "authentic" fried liver, dry a bowl of bean juice, endure the stomach to ask for a spoonful of brine boiling, 80% will tremble and lay down bad reviews, spit on Beijing snacks are difficult to eat to explode. Couples quarrel, "Do you love me, can you pick the stars for me / lying on the track / jumping the river" in the many options, can be changed to "drink bowl of bean juice".
FengWujun and friends discussed a circle, curiosity came up——
Why are Beijing snacks being scolded so badly?
A hundred years ago: you didn't catch up when it was delicious!
In the past, there was a saying in Beijing: "In front of the Xisi Xidan Drum Tower, the front gate of Wangfujing dashilar, and the small door frame hutong line of heaven", among them, the dashilar and qianmen area gathered the best Beijing-style snacks.
Dashilar during the Republic of China period
The 1920s and 1930s were the golden age of Beijing snacks. Dashilar, an inconspicuous door-frame alley, bears witness to the brilliance of Beijing snacks, and many Beijing snack families started from this.
At that time, from the south to the north, they were full of food stalls, Fushun Zhai's sauce beef, rice cake king, pea Huang Wan, oil crispy fire roast Liu, pie Lu, pop belly Yang, rice cake Yang, tofu brain white, fried belly Feng, cheese Wei, Kangjia old tofu, bun Yang, Tongyiguan shabu... Due to the chaotic war situation of that year, these snack craftsmen had to go to great lengths to do small business.
Among them, Fushun Zhai's sauce beef is a snack façade, using more than a dozen kinds of medicinal herbs to roast beef, every day a pot is opened, the aroma spreads from the door frame alley to the gallery headlines, two strips, fragrant to make people itch.
The smell of cheese also drifts far away, smelling is a "frankincense and rice wine" mixed taste, the traditional practice is to take fresh milk as the main ingredient, with home-brewed rice wine to order it, so that it solidifies, the cheese "frost frozen jade", buckle the bowl without spilling, a bit like DQ ice cream. Lu Xun, Liang Shiqiu and Ma Lianliang are all lovers of cheese.
"Bursting Belly Feng" is a brother of the Beijing Snack Tiantuan, and the third generation of Feng Guangju has lived in Dashilar since he was a child. 260 pounds of karma sheep, up to three or two belly kernels, a fire, a roll of water, four or five seconds out of the pot, the Feng family's dipping sauce also added ancestral Chinese medicine. Duan Qirui, Mei Lanfang, Ba Jin, and Ding Ling are all regular customers of Burst Belly Feng, among which Liang Shiqiu describes it most appropriately, "The belly is a lamb's belly, the sheep in the north of the mouth is fat and large, and the sheep's stomach has several parts: Sandan, gourd, belly plate, belly collar, with the belly collar as the thickest." The popcorn sold in the restaurant is limited to the belly collar, and it is peeled, so it is called belly kernel. There are three ways to fry belly kernels: salt bursting, oil bursting, and soup popping. ”
Why do Beijing snacks grow crazy in Dashilar? According to the memories of Xu Chengbei, an authentic Beijinger, there are three opera gardens in Dashilar, and Peking Opera is staged day and night, and it takes most of the day for people to go to the front door to watch the play.
At the time of the Ming and Qing dynasties, Kunqu opera also occupied the beijing drama stage, until Huiban entered Beijing, and Hui opera completed feathering in Dashilar and transformed into a vibrant Peking Opera; on the other hand, the lower-class people of Beijing directly promoted the Peking Opera frenzy of Dashilar and quickly spawned a large number of Beijing snack consumers. It can be said that the prosperity of Beijing snacks is a representative of the wave of culture in beijing's lower classes.
Whether it is the people who sing the opera (whether they are unknown or famous people) or the commoners who listen to the opera, they are a huge group of people who consume Beijing snacks, and even literati and nobles, and all the people who come to Dashilar for entertainment will inevitably pay for Beijing snacks. After this phenomenon escalated, it directly promoted the Dashilar and Qianmen generation to become the golden entertainment paradise of Beijing's grassroots.
From the Qianlong era until the Republic of China, the drama garden of Dashilar was more lively than ever, "Dumen Hui usurped the clouds: in the last years of tongzhi, the Beijing Drama Garden, the Sanqing Garden in the south of Dashilar Middle Road, the Guangde Building in the north of Dashilan Xikou Road, the Qinghe Garden in the north of Dashilan Xikou Road... The above is a pure theater", even the restaurant has a place to set up a stage to sing, "although it used to be a restaurant, it was a constant table to act.". The big theater garden can sit 1,300 or 400 people, and the smaller one can also accommodate more than a thousand people, from the high-end "official seat" to the low-priced "pool", everyone can find their own position, in the middle of summer, the theater garden blows a breeze, and it feels that the words are more exciting. Watching plays, listening to plays, and eating snacks have been integrated into the daily life of old Beijingers.
From 1920 to 1930, Mei Lanfang took a costume photo
The birth of many pear garden celebrities is also closely related to the atmosphere of Dashilar, Mei Lanfang's ancestral home is also located at No. 101, Tieshu Xie Street, Dashilan, in 1894, Mei Lanfang was born here, spent his childhood and adolescence, and Yang Xiaolou, a martial arts actor who cooperated with Mei Lanfang in the classic play "Farewell to the Overlord", also lived in No. 33, Dashilar Broom Alley.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, Dashilar also had the first cinema in Beijing's history, the Daguanlou. The first movie that was released that year was "Leprosy Girl", and after that, the scene was full.
1950s: Snack groups begin to decline
The first step toward change in Beijing's traditional snacks, stationed deep in Beijing's hutongs, was the public-private partnership movement launched after the founding of New China in the 1950s. The state stipulates that capitalist commerce shall be subject to industry-wide public-private partnerships, and capitalists will no longer exercise their functions and powers as capitalists, and will gradually transform themselves into self-reliant laborers in the course of labor.
January 1956 Workers' Daily front page
A climax of socialist transformation was first completed in Beijing. In 1956, the number of commercial outlets in Beijing was reduced from 77,000 five years earlier to 44,000, a large number of long-established brands, mainly in the service industry, were abolished, and a small number of long-established brands were state-owned.
After the snack brand of "Bursting Belly Feng" was state-owned, Feng Guangju entered the factory as a lathe worker, after which the craftsmanship of "Bursting Belly Feng" was broken for thirty years, after the Cultural Revolution, he was criticized, his children went to the countryside to join the team, and the family's small business stopped for many years, until after the reform and opening up, the 55-year-old Feng Guangju returned to his old business.
Quanjude roast duck
And the old brand that has been preserved, there has been a change of taste, Quanjude's roast duck has become "not crispy, can't bite, not delicious", Mao Zedong patronized Donglaishun, asked at the state council meeting, why did donglaishun's lamb become unpalatable? Dong Laishun's answer was: "We easily changed its rules... The original price of lamb was one pound of two cents and eight cents, and after the joint venture, it was the same as that of the general shop, all reduced to one piece and eight, saying that it was for the people and for the consumer. In this way, it also uses the lamb that should not be used as shabu, so the lamb is old. ”
On January 10, 1956, Beijing had completed the peaceful transformation of capitalist industry and commerce, and the picture shows the implementation of a public-private partnership for the entire tea shop industry
After the liberation of Dashilar did not last long, due to the Cultural Revolution, Peking Opera was regarded as feudal scum, theaters have stopped performing Peking Opera, until the Cultural Revolution did not reopen, but surprisingly, it was not the Cultural Revolution that caused the decline of Peking Opera, but the times. In the 1980s and 1990s, due to the popularity of movies and the impact of various performances, the operation of Peking Opera was dismal, and the commercial area was even more depressed. The gap between Dashilar and the times has slowly widened, so the status of the rivers and lakes has also declined.
In 2004, the Dashilar area began to be transformed, and Feng Guangju, the descendant of "Bursting Belly Feng", felt pain again. Feng Guangju moved the shop several times, from the original site of the door frame hutong to Langfang Ertiao, and later Langfang Ertiao also began to be demolished, and he moved the address again. "Move once, raise the price once, the rent is almost unbearable," Feng Guangju sighed, "my financial resources are too limited, if I have the funds, build a big house, let the snack operators all come to me." ”
For today's Beijingers, Peking Opera, Dashilar and Beijing snacks are just a very old and long-standing memory.
In 2005, Dashilar had been reduced to the edge of the city's corner, and there was no longer a bustling snack street. There is no air conditioning in the old alley, there is no sewer in the house, every morning, the toilets in the alley will be lined up, the residents are generally a little "shy", because here is "too poor to get the tabletop", although it has been lonely, a coachman is still proud of the prosperity of the place of residence, "We care about politics, even if the family only has an income of 1,000 yuan per month, we have to squeeze out money to sell newspapers. According to a survey by the Beijing Municipal Academy of Social Sciences, there are 23,418 households living in the Dashilar area, of which 9,914 are over 60 years old, far exceeding China's 10% elderly population ratio, 963 people with disabilities, 4,427 people with unemployment registration, and 929 households with low social security.
Today: What you eat is not authentic
So where do the authentic Beijing snacks we eat now come from?
Beijing's current snack bars, one is a halal snack bar represented by the "Huguo Temple", the other is a personal snack bar represented by the "Bursting Belly Feng"; there are also casserole houses, Huguo Temple snacks, qingfeng buns, all of which are huatian catering groups reorganized by the Xicheng District Catering Company after the reform and opening up.
Beijing Qingfeng Bun Shop was incorporated into Huatian Group in the early 21st century, and then expanded as a fast food chain to develop into a bun fast food chain. Once known as the "sewer shed" of the Hall of Great Elegance, casserole houses started by cooking leftover meat from court sacrifices, and after the 1990s, they were expanded on a large scale and took an elegant route. As for the gokokuji snacks, in order to adapt to the modern lifestyle, the original large, black, coarse and bad snacks have been converted into small and exquisite tastes.
"Bursting belly Feng" is passed down to Feng Guangju, and the source of the picture is watermarked
"Bursting Belly Feng" is still working hard. Feng Guangju has found the descendants of nine snack bars such as rice cake money, tea soup plum, and huangfu fire, and wants to help revitalize the old Beijing snacks. Three years ago, the old man died of illness, and the place where the old Beijing flavor snacks were stationed was still adrift...
Why are Beijing snacks always complained that they are not delicious?
There are two reasons for this:
1 The decline of the Beijing-style lifestyle based on watching Peking Opera and eating Beijing-style snacks has led to the loss of living soil for Beijing snacks
2 In the 1950s, public-private partnerships lost a number of long-established brands, resulting in changes in the taste of traditional snacks and the discontinuation of the heirs of the craft
Beijing snacks and contemporary Sichuan cuisine are somewhat similar to the reasons for their fame, both of which started from the bottom people's eating style, the cooking methods are simple and rough, before the spicy taste did not occupy Sichuan, the Sichuan people only ate sweets, until the war in the late Qing Dynasty, the epidemic raged, the spicy taste of peppers conquered the Sichuan people with a strong "next meal" attribute, and in the eighties, a modern Sichuan cuisine system represented by spicy taste was formed, and Sichuan restaurants became popular restaurants. Compared with Beijing snacks, the "Beijing flavor" of Beijing snacks is not like "Sichuan flavor", so it has not embarked on the evolutionary path of contemporary Sichuan cuisine, at the same time, with the process of urbanization, a variety of Western snacks have quickly poured into the streets of Beijing, and the new commercial districts are lined up layer by layer, due to the expansion of the range of edible options, the old Beijing snacks wandered left and right in the city, and eventually fell.
Text / salt white
reference:
"Disappearing Beijing Snacks" Sun Ran
"Research on the Relationship between Dashilar and the Origin of Peking Opera", Mu Hongli
Southern Weekend: Focusing on the Poor in the Heart of Beijing