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Putuo Mountain "Cloud Mist Buddha Tea" and Tea Set Examination (2)

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At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, Putuo Mountain experienced several huge rises and falls, which seriously affected the cultivation of tea plants and the development of tea culture.

At the beginning of Hongwu, Ming Taizu adopted a "no-sea" policy, stipulating that "sails are not allowed to go to the sea", and later "forbidden coastal people to go to sea" and so on. In the 20th year of Hongwu, on the grounds that Putuo Mountain was "poor and dangerous, easy to be a thief's nest", he moved Baotuo Temple to Mingzhou and named it "Supplementary Tuo Temple" (that is, the seven pagoda temples in Ningbo). There are more than 300 temples on the burning mountain, leaving only 1 Iron Tile Hall in Chaoyin Cave and one monk and one battle. Since then, the Buddha's kingdom has been reduced to ruins, and the tea growing industry has been abandoned.

After more than 120 years, until the tenth year of Zhengde (1515), there were monks who sat down and built 5 main halls and 20 abbot halls on the Chaoyin Cave. During this period, although there were good men and women who came to the pilgrimage, because the monastery did not have a scale, it was impossible for the tea industry on the mountain to develop greatly. Thirty-six years after Jiajing, Fanyu in the mountains disappeared. With the decline of the famous mountain, the tea industry on the mountain has disappeared.

During the Wanli period, a large number of nunneries and mountain temples were gradually built, and by the end of the Ming Dynasty, the "Sea and Heaven Buddha Kingdom" tribute ships floated in the clouds, and incense ships covered the sun, which was called the peak period in history. With the princes and nobles, domestic and foreign monks, literati and celebrities, and good men and women come to the mountain in large numbers, the mountain not only flourishes with incense, but also the demand for tea has greatly increased, so there is the Putuo mountain tea event described by Li Tong: "The mountain argues about picking incense buds, and the fog passes through the clouds to go to the road credit." The system will be tested on the fire, and the good qi will spread throughout the monks' homes (Li Tong's "Tea Mountain Dreaming Mist"). "The Dragon Regiment is always good at name, knocking on the ice to boil snow tea full of bells." Monk Qingfu saw it this way, a wisp of blue smoke bamboo was born out of nowhere (Li Tong's "Ashram Tea Smoke"). ”

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Before the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, China's tea making using the process of researching tea into cakes, and later the level became more and more refined, the tea cakes were engraved with gold and silver, and the dragon painting phoenix was carved, called "dragon and phoenix tuan tea", and the production process was very time-consuming and labor-intensive.

In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu (1391), The Ming Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang issued an edict to abolish the Dragon Tuan Tribute Tea and change it to GongShan Tea, and since then, the Chinese tea ceremony has developed from the so-called "ordering tea, dividing tea, and fighting tea" to brewing tea. Because of the simplicity of the tea ceremony, tea has also entered the ordinary alleys, people's homes, has become an important part of people's daily life, at that time, scholars, literati and inkers are mostly keen on this way, representative figures are Zhang Yuan, Feng Kebin, Chen Jiru, Xu Wei, Tian Yiheng, Xu Xianzhong, Zhang Dai, Yuan Mei, etc., the famous mountain temple, the temple in the temple hall of the high monks and masters, also "tea hospitality" as a practice.

During the Ming Dynasty,000 years, The Ningshao general Hou Jigao wrote in the Records of the Youtong Tuoluojia Mountain: "... There is a monk Dazhi, who came from Mount Wutai, Zhuo Xi here, Jie Mao to live, known as Hai Chao An... There is a spring at the top of the mountain after the temple, and Dazhi ordered his disciples to lead it through the bamboo, and the taste of tea is particularly sweet. ”

The ancients attached great importance to water, and Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" wrote: "Cooking tea in the production place, there is no bad, cover water and soil and also." "Tea Recipe" Yun: "If the tea is fried in the water of this place, it can get rid of the disease." It is also said that "the mountain is thick and the spring is thick, the mountain is strange, the mountain is clear, and the mountain is full of springs, all of which are good products." "Using the "Qingyu Stream" water flowing after the Guangxi Peak of Putuo Mountain, and cooking the "Cloud Mist Buddha Tea" of Putuo Mountain, its taste is of course particularly sweet.

At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Lu Bao, a member of the Zhongshu She, wrote in the Book of You supplementary Tuo: "... Dozens of steps west of the temple... The guest said 'this Cave of Kongo also'. The cave bears a large stone rock, shaped like a covered cup, and the corridor in front of the cave is repaired with hundreds of steps, crowned with Cen Lou, and the four windows are lined... There are monks who recommend fragrant tea, and sip it to the end. At this point, the "Cloud Mist Buddha Tea" of Putuo Mountain has become famous all over the world. In the seventeenth year of the Wanli Calendar, the famous scholar Tu Long of Yongshang was hired by the general Hou Jigao to stop at the famous mountain and compile the "Chronicle of the Twelve Views of the Supplementary Tuoluojia", which was titled "The Twelve Views of the Supplementary Tuo", which had two scenes, "Tea Mountain Dreaming Fog" and "Ashram Tea Smoke", which fully reflected the prosperity of the Putuo Mountain tea industry and tea affairs in the middle of the Ming Dynasty.

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Open the ancient Chinese poetry scrolls, you can smell the fragrance of tea, tea in China, is an art of life, is not only a daily refreshing drink, and chai rice oil and salt, but also related to the literati Gao Shi's qinqi calligraphy and painting, Tu Long wrote in the "Examination of the Rest of the Matter": "Construct a bucket room, Xiang Gong Shu Zhai, set up a tea set, teach a boy, special to the tea service, for a long day of qing talk, cold night wu sitting, this ghost person's first job, can not be wasted." "It is no wonder that the dignitaries and nobles at that time were happy to go to the monk's room to taste tea and poetry, leaving a precious tea cultural heritage for Putuo Mountain."

Yinxian celebrity Zhou Yingchen 'You Ashram》 Yun: "... According to the mountain thatched path, everywhere bamboo springs clear. Just for the sake of rejoicing, new tea boiled stone bell. ”

Bingbu Shangshu and Sima Shaofu zhong titled "Ashram Tea Smoke" Yun: "Entering the Dingtou Tuo no lower niche, the old pine repair bamboo closed Mao'an." The mountain boy drew water to cook mountain tea, only to see the smoke fly and make a lan. Shao Fuzhong's "Tea Mountain Dreaming Mist" cloud: "Bodhi is not a lotus flower, the thunder pod cloud forest grows dew buds." Mountain qi who boo the sun does not disperse, half cage gion tree half cage tea. ”

Wanli Twenty-first Year Jinshi, Zhenhai County Ling Ding Hongyang "Ashram Tea Smoke" cloud: "Calendar calendar cloud niche purple bamboo bushes, tea cooking stone Ding fire first red." No one arrived at zen pass for the end of the day, and a wisp of tea smoke was blue in the sky. ”

Ding Hongyang's "Tea Mountain Dreaming Fog" cloud: "Coral trees are on the lotus platform, and the thin mist cannot be opened." Looking at the hue in the middle of the direction, it is clear that the dragon girl is offering pearls! ”

Chen Chaofu, a native of Yinxian and Shaoqing of the Taibu Temple, "Ashram Tea Smoke" Yun: "The deep spring color of the valley is deep, and the rain and long berry moss are tasted." New wisps of smoke pierced through the clouds, and Shiding tea pilgrims came from afar. ”

Chen Chaofu's "Tea Mountain Dream Fog" cloud: "The sun hangs on the fusang dream fog, and the hanging flowers and rain dot the bushes." Dingzhong old Yu Qingsi, miaojiao furnace smoke cypress burning. ”

Tu Long, the head of the ceremonial department, a literary scholar and an opera composer, inscribed himself "Ashram Tea Smoke" Yun: "Xiao Xiao Ancient Temple white smoke is born, and the boy cooks tea and boils stone bells." Outside the door, there is no snow drifting, the sea and sky are low and the frozen clouds are flat. ”

Tu Long's title "Tea Mountain Dream Fog" cloud: "The Dragon Palace's fish room is foggy, and a few trees of coral are not true." Xueli Zhao Xia is ten feet tall, and Hongxiu is afraid that he is a pearl donor. Some of the above poems record that they talked with the senior monks at night and cooked tea; some reflected the grand situation of tea picking and making tea on the mountain at that time, and some described the lush beauty of the Putuo Mountain Tea Garden in that year, which was very rich in content.

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There are many poems about Putuo camellia culture and tea, but due to the limited space, only a part of it can be recorded. During the Wanli Dynasty, Zhu Guozhen, who had been a scholar of Wenyuange University, a scholar of the Official's Department, and a princely master, gave four poems to "You Putuo", and the second one was Yun: "... Tatajing has been stationed in Tin for several years, and the tea aroma is good. Zhu Guozhen's "Five Songs of Putuo Mountain Puppet Works", the fifth song of Yun: "... Release pool on the moon, semi-ancient tower spire frost. Try and cook new tea, and get drunk with the grass. ”

Xu Ruhan, a twenty-five-year jinshi of the Wanli Dynasty and a politician of Datong, "You PantuoShi Returns to the Rain" Yun: "... Wear cloud shirt shadow heavy, wet step marks oblique. Tired of borrowing monks to sleep on the bed, thirsty for Buddha tea. ”

Yuyao People, Shanglin Yuan, Sun Jun," "Songjutang Collection" Volume 11 "Qian Jun's Visit to Putuo and Longquan Temple" Yun: "The ancient spring of the Mountain Deep Temple invaded the grass, and the courtyard was quiet and the people fell flowers during the day. Kezhi Longquan also draws on himself, and the tile bells and stones boil new tea. ”

Xu Shenqian, a famous scholar in Yinxian County, "Title Luojia Mountain Seven Laws two songs", the second song Yun: "... Meiwan Moon Besun Cold Night, Tea Island Smoke Clear Delivery Xiaochun. ”

Wang Yuanhan's "Boundless Zen Master Avoids Poetry Under the Rock of Tranquility" Yun: "... There is a phase in the purple bamboo forest, and there is no wave on the white ocean sea. At the place where the stove smoke and tea bowls are, there are many ways to appreciate the lifelessness. ”

Wu Zhongluan, the chief of the ceremonial department, "Seven Songs of Yuputuo Ci Shen Tong'an Rhyme", the third poem yun: "At the bottom of the poem, Hong Tao only stands on the wall, and there is a scroll in the depths of the monk's residence." The first bloom of the flowers is suitable for rain, and the new baking of ming bi can try the spring. ”

It must be mentioned in particular that in the Ming Dynasty, the Putuo Mountain Yunwu Buddha Tea also had an elegant name called "Guanyin Lingya", which was written by Li Rihua of the Twenty Years of the Wanli Calendar (1599) and the official to the Shaoqing of the Taibu Temple, Volume I, Yun: "On July 21, the thirty-seventh year of the Wanli Calendar, the monks on the sea came to the sea and wrapped the Putuo tea in a yuyu. Those who send their boats to the pavilion in the middle of the lake to carry the clear water will get three silks and good. Monk Yun: "Putuo produces tea for less than ten pounds, and this hand roaster is especially rare." 'Yu Yu zhi 'Guanyin Ling bud'. ”

Some scholars mentioned that Li Rihua said in the "Purple Peach Xuan Miscellaneous" that "the old monk of Putuo, Yi Yu Xiaobaihuayan tea, is wrapped in white mushrooms, the leaves are white, the water is colorless, and Xu Ying feels cool and penetrating." Monk Yun's Ben Yan is five or six years old, dedicated to the great master, and the monk has a few sippers. In fact, the so-called "old monk of Putuo" and "monks of the sea should be the same person." The first of the above two pieces of information talks about the preparation of water cooking tea and Putuo Buddha tea in the area of the West Lake Huxin Pavilion, saying that the "Guanyin Ling bud" on the mountain is a "hand roaster". The first one says that "Putuo produces tea is not more than ten pounds", and the second says "five or six catties of tea in Putuo" (press: "觔" pass "jin"). Of course, this refers to the Buddha tea above the taste, at that time, Putuo Mountain incense tourists every year thousands, "ten pounds" of tea how can cope with it, the upper and lower products add up, it is unlikely that there are only "ten pounds".

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During the Wanli Period, Putuo Buddha Tea has developed a whole set of picking, cleaning and making techniques. Zhao Ruli, a Song dynasty, wrote in the Beiyuan Beilu: "Tea has small buds, medium buds, purple buds, white combinations, and black jaws, which must not be distinguished. ”

Song Huizong's "Treatise on The Great View of Tea" Yun: "Picking tea is at dawn, and stopping when the sun is seen." Break the buds with your claws, do not rub them with your fingers, worry about sweat and smoke stains, and the tea is not fresh and clean. Therefore, tea workers mostly draw new water to follow themselves, and when they get buds, they throw them into the water. Those whose teeth are like the grains of the tongue are fighting products, one shot and one flag are picked buds, one shot and two flags are secondary, and Yu Si is the next. The bud of tea has white combination, and if it is picked, it has black, white combination does not harm the taste of tea, and black does not harm tea color. In this regard, the Monks and Mountain People of Putuo Mountain who hand-roasted the "Guanyin Ling Bud" will certainly not be unaware.

At that time, Tu Long, who had lived in Putuo Mountain to compile the "Chronicle of Supplementary Tuo Mountain", wrote in the "Examination of the Rest of the Matter": "Tea is in the valley rain, waiting for the sun to be harvested tomorrow, can cure phlegm cough and cure hundreds of diseases." Tu Long also wrote "Tea Sayings" Yun: "Tea picking should be taken before the valley rain after the Qingming Dynasty, when its dawn will bloom, and the fog and dew will not disperse, and each plant should be taken by those who regard it as a branch." Harvest to the proverb that is, lay the bud thin on the ground, and order many workers to pick its veins and remove its branches. The cover is easy to scorch, and the liuti is red. First heat the kettle, make four or two of each bud into the kettle, stir-fry the grass gas, and do not stop with your hands. When you see that it is ripe, you gently knead the roll in the kettle, pick it up and spread it on the basket, and use a fan to cool it. Stir-fry to more than ten kettles, always stir-fry. Swirl and swirl cold, so five times. Its tea is turquoise, shaped like a silkworm hook, and it is a good product. ”

At present, Putuoshan Buddha tea is harvested around the Qingming Festival every year, and those who take fresh leaves and one bud and one leaf or one bud and two leaves for the first time require "uniform, whole, clean and tender". Fresh leaves are harvested and immediately carried out a number of processes such as thinning, greening, kneading, hair raising and drying. When stir-frying, pay attention to the clean tea pot, every time the tea is fried, it is necessary to wash the tea pot once, so that its shape is tight and thin like a finch tongue, like a snail, like an eyebrow, like an eyebrow, the color is emerald green, the aroma is rich, the soup color is tender and bright after brewing, it is refreshing and refreshing, but it is inherited from the Ming Dynasty to make Buddhist tea techniques, which have been passed down from generation to generation, which is not easy.

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Among the many chants of Putuo Mountain, there are also many monks' inscriptions, such as the 70 poems of the "Mountain Residence" in the Haiguan of the Lin Yue Nunnery at the end of the Ming Dynasty, of which the 32nd one writes about tea leaves: "Imitate the livelihood of Sparing, plant ShaoPing melon." Yaoying smoke is brilliant, and the tongue is foggy. The 40th poem writes that Putuo Mountain Buddha Tea is exempt from taxation: "Mountain Garden Tea has no tax, and the empty door does not cure Mulberry." "Yunyou monk came to have a poem "Subaihua Nunnery Visiting Zen Master Langche" "... Tongue roll tide tone talk about miaoyi, and the crane waving cloud shadow smiles empty flowers. Meet and wash me wind and dust, and the night is quiet to burn bells and snow to boil tea. ”

Monks meet each other and taste tea with each other, which is also a fashion on the mountain in that year. At that time, there were a number of tea planting areas near Baihua'an. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Ding Jisi, Li Xu, Yuan Maoying, Lu Xiuzu, Zhu Jin, Yao Xie, Dong Qichang, Chen Jiru, Xu Ruhan, Zhang Keda, Yang Daming, Cao Xue, Fan Yunlin, Zhang Ruitu, Wu Zhongluan and other famous monks and masters, as well as mingguo, Laixiang, Longshou, Nengxue, Xugu, Zhuchan and other high monks and masters, have all lived in the nunnery, leaving behind a large number of poems, scrolls, inscriptions, tea sets and other tea cultural relics and works, among which the poems related to tea affairs include Yang Daming's "Sending Reward baihua nunnery Yuguang Shangren and his disciple Langche": "... The tea bowl says that Xuanlong injects foam, and the bamboo forest divides the purple Buddha. Xu Ruhan's "Don't Bai Hua An Lang Gong Hou Obstruct the Wind Lotus Yang But Send": "The generation of crane bones is beautiful and beautiful, and the composition is more delicate." Pine dust jade cold grass seat, stone bed flower rain pan tea urn. Zhang Qiande continued to write the "Tea Classic" novella "On Cooking" Yun: "Cooking tea, choosing water is the most important, Tang Lu gradually tasted water clouds 'on the landscape, in the river, under the well', on the slow flow of the rock pond of the milk spring of the mountain; the waterfall gushes and does not eat, and the long-term food makes people have neck diseases; the river water takes away people who are far away; the well water draws a lot of people." ”

There are currently true geysers and ponds in Baihua'an, the true geysers are chiseled by the Song Dynasty's true geysers, on which there are stones inscribed by The Song Zai Chancellor Shi Hao (now exist), the Zhai Jian pond is chiseled by the Zen master Langche, and the water of the two springs is the "slow flower of the stone pond of the milk spring of the mountains and rivers", which is a good place for cooking tea. On the day of Chi Cheng, the dignitaries gathered together to taste tea and chant poems, and good stories were circulated. At that time, Cao Xue, who was first promoted by the twenty-third year of the Wanli Dynasty and the envoy Cao Xue, gave the "Langche Zen Master Zhai Jian Chi Zan" Yun: "The water of the pond is clear, and the hair can be discerned." Bandits are round, and the law is as it should be. The Master rested his mind and rested in the shadows. The eight merits of water are infinite. Fan Yunlin, a member of the Same Branch Jinshi and a senator from Fujian Province, waved a wave of praise: "A flood of clarity, a thousand moon seals." Not only can you take pictures. The void is like Jing. Drink it and be empowered! Dong Qichang's close friend, Chen Jiru, the Duke of Zheng, took over the book: "Laymen go, idle to stay." Wash your ears with water, nod your head, Monk Lang, ask for nothing! Chen Jiru was once invited by the emperor to go to the official and resigned, so he was honored as "Zheng gong", was a famous "tea star" in the late Ming Dynasty, he often fought with his friends to compete in tea, there is a "Wing Tea" word cloud: "Qi Yin save cover, spirit grass test flag." The bamboo stove shoots, and the pine fire wants to fly. The water is light, and the tea is fat. Green incense full of road, never forget! There is also the poem "Tasting Tea": "Yamanaka tries the new spring every day, and junhe is the predecessor of the old Yuchuan." Stone pillow moon invaded banana leaf dream, bamboo stove wind soft falling flower smoke. ”

Source: Zhoushan Government Portal, China

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