Some time ago, because I wrote an article about salty rice in Huangxian County, I consulted some materials, which mentioned the early breakfast "noodle tea" in old Beijing: the millet noodles were boiled into porridge, put into a bowl, sprinkled with a layer of sesame salt evenly on the batter, and then hooked with a few circles of sesame sauce. With fritters or pancake dumplings, it is a classic breakfast in old Beijing (originally noodle tea was drunk in the afternoon, and the Bamboo Branch Words of the Qing Dynasty had the verse "Hot noodle tea at the beginning of the afternoon dream, dry ginger and sesame sauce must always be added", and later somehow changed it earlier).
Noodle tea
Wang Zengqi wrote in the article "Noodle Tea": "Noodle tea is paste-like, tender yellow in color, filled with a bowl, sprinkled with sesame salt, holding the bowl with your hand, turning the circle to drink,—— can drink tea soup without making spoons and chopsticks, all of them are turned to the bowl to drink." What's so good about this stuff? There's a little bit of sesame salt scent, and that's it. "Mr. Wang is a Gaoyou man who has lived in Beijing for decades, and there is still some gap in taste. Old Beijingers can not do without noodle tea, some sayings are also related to noodle tea (which also explains from the side that noodle tea is a common thing in life): "Noodle tea pot boiled Lantern - bastard", the pot of old-fashioned noodle tea is made of copper, it is called "noodle tea pot", it is specially used to boil noodle tea, generally not used to boil other things, add into the Lantern, but it is not mixed into the egg. If someone says to you, "You're really a bowl of noodle tea," that's not a good thing to say, it means a person with a confused mind and a fool.
Suzi stuffed dim sum
According to the research of Beijing folklorists, noodle tea was brought by the Manchus after entering the customs, and the original seasoning was made of Suzi salt, which was liked by the Manchus (to this day, in the Manchu-style "Rao Shop", you can still see tea made of Suzi stuffing), and later changed to sesame salt that the Han people are accustomed to.
What is Suzi Salt? I thought that in the past, the family had raised two cages of white jade (scientific name canary, also known as hibiscus bird), usually fed millet, and my mother often went to the flower and bird market to buy Su'er ginseng to feed them.
Suzi
Especially in the spring courtship period, it is necessary to feed more Su'er and egg yolks, so that the white jade call fed will be more crisp and gentle, and it will be endless all day long.
white jade
However, according to the bird food seller, you can't feed Su'er all year round, this thing is oily, white jade eats too much fat, you can't hold the little bird (this is the same as the hen belly oil more than eggs, women are too fat to conceive children a reason). The suzi salt may be made by sautéing su'er and mashing the salt, similar to sesame salt.
Check the "Su" article of the "Compendium of Materia Medica", which is also known as "Shiso", "Chisu" and "Gui": "Su Cong, Yin Crisp, Shu Chang Ye." Su is comfortable, walking qi and blood, so it is called Su. Known as the perilla, to be a white sue also. Su is a type of gui, and the taste is more spicy as gui, so "Erya" is called guizhi. Youyun: "Perilla and white su are planted in February and March, or suzi grows on the ground." Its stem is square, its leaves are pointed and pointed, there are serrations around it, the face of the fat land is purple, the face of the barren land is blue and purple, and the back of the face is white, that is, the white su, is also a seration. When the perilla is tender, it is picked with leaves, and vegetables and vegetables, or salt and plum brine for food, very fragrant, and the summer moon is used as a cooked soup to drink. In May and June, the roots are harvested, simmered with fire, and the leaves do not fall for a long time. In August, fine purple flowers bloom and become ears of house, such as thorns and mustard ears. Harvested in the middle of September, the seeds are as thin as mustard seeds, and the color is yellow and red, and oil such as can be taken. "New Book of Wu Ben" Cloud: Where the near road on the shore of the land can be planted with Su, to cover the six animals. Harvest the oil, burn the lamp very brightly, or boil it with oil utensils. "Danfang Mirror Source" Cloud: Suzi Oil, Can Soft Hardware and Eight Stones. "Shazhou Chronicle" Yun: The land of beggars, do not grow grains, but eat suzi. Therefore, Wang Zhenyun: Su has the ability to cover up, and it is also used for lamp oil, and it cannot be quenched. ”
Originally, "Su" was also called "荏", and "Suzi" was called "荏子". I have a friend from Guiyang who told me that they have a delicacy called rice dumplings, which are steamed with glutinous rice and put into stone mortars, picked into pieces to make cakes, and roasted on the charcoal fire when eating, called "roasted rice dumplings", and then dipped in "introducers" and sugar to eat, fragrant and sticky and sweet.
The rugs are added with brown sugar and can be used as a filling and as a dipping sauce
I don't understand what a "primer" is, my friend explained, similar to sesame seeds, stir-fried and mashed with sugar to make a dry dipping dish. Only then did I figure out that the so-called "introducer" was "荏子", Guiyang dialect belonged to the Southwest Mandarin dialect, r vowel was generally pronounced as zero vowel, "荏" was pronounced as "citation", and the same was true of Huangxian dialect, "ren" read as "silver", "Ren" read as "yin", and "ru" read as "rain". Northerners like salty, southerners like sweet, the same condiments, Beijing is Suzi plus salt, Guiyang is the ricecreen with sugar, this is the difference in regions.
Perilla is an annual herb of the family Perilla in the family Persophyllaceae, 60–180 cm tall, with a specific aroma, a quadrilateral stem with long soft hairs. The leaves are opposite, ovate, with coarsely serrated margins, purple on the back or on both sides, and sparsely hairy. The corolla is purple-red and lip-shaped. The small nuts are nearly spherical and tan.
perilla
White Sue
Perilla stems and leaves are medicinal, have the effect of publishing, dispersing cold, and rationalizing qi, and are used to treat colds, cold fever, cough, asthma, chest and abdomen fullness, etc. (we often drink the herbs and aromas of positive gas water, which has the ingredient of perilla leaf oil), and has an excellent effect on those who vomit due to abdominal pain and vomiting due to fish and crab poisoning. The stem has the ability to calm the tire. The seeds are used in medicine, which have the effect of eliminating phlegm, moisturizing the lungs and wide intestines, and are used to treat cough, sputum wheezing, stagnation, constipation and so on.
Suzi oil
The oil squeezed out of the seeds, the name Suzi oil, long-term consumption, can regulate high blood pressure, high blood lipids, reduce cholesterol, inhibit thrombosis, and effectively prevent cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases. Its a-linolenic acid content is the highest in vegetable oils, can strengthen the brain and nootropics, known as "deep sea fish oil on land", is a combination of medicinal and food health edible oil. The seeds are stir-fried and mashed, and can also be used as a filling for tangyuan and dim sum, which has a special flavor. The leaves are also edible, and after the young stems and leaves are blanched in boiling water, they can be fried, cold mixed or soup. Throwing the perilla in the stew increases the aroma. The lip family is the origin of spices and spices, mint, spearmint, herbs, lavender, sage, rosemary, basil (this is the European name, Taiwan called "nine-story tower", Cantonese called "golden pepper"), are relatives of the lip family, motherwort, manna (Huangxian dialect called "drip"), salvia (Huangxian dialect called "scabies bark") also belong to this family. Contains volatile aromatic oils, the stem is four-sided, and the corolla is lip-shaped, which is their common feature.
In Japan, perilla is known as the "wife of sashimi" and is an indispensable match for all kinds of fresh sashimi, because perilla contains perilla aldehyde with a special fragrance, which promotes appetite while also having a bactericidal and antiseptic effect.
Perilla leaves with sashimi
Perilla flower spikes with sashimi
In Japan, perilla is the first oil plant to be discovered, and its seed oil (known in Japanese as "sesame oil") is mainly used as lamp oil and paint for making oil-paper umbrellas after being eaten by the Japanese. Sashiko is stir-fried and grated, but it can also be used as a seasoning to make miso and served with some local snacks.
Perilla tempura
Perilla sea urchin tempura
In addition, it is also common to use perilla leaves instead of seaweed to make rice balls, or to fry them with sea urchins to make perilla sea urchin tempura with attractive colors, or to directly fry perilla leaves to make vegetable tempura.
White sue leaf bun grilled meat
In Korea, people eat Korean barbecue and side dishes wrapped in white soe leaves. In Southeast Asia and South Asia, perilla leaves and sophora are also commonly used as seasonings. Chinese medicine believes that crabs are salty and cold, eat more, and accumulate cold between the umbilicus, and must be relieved by ginger, perilla, etc., so southerners should take the place of perilla when steaming crabs.
Steamed crab with perilla leaves
When grilling fish and shrimp, you should also put some perilla (Changsha flavored shrimp that are red all over the country, and when stewing, you must add perilla leaves), which has the effect of increasing fragrance and removing fishiness. In the second season of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", there is a perilla fried green snail, which can remove the muddy smell of the green snail itself, and can bring out the umami taste of the green snail. After eating fish and crabs, the gastrointestinal tract is uncomfortable, drinking some soup water boiled with perilla can dissolve the table, disperse the cold, walk the qi, and the stomach. Russian sour cucumbers are famous all over the world, and the sour cucumbers in Harbin were first introduced by the Russian diaspora, and the ingredients were later improved to suit the tastes of the locals. When marinating, wash and dry the small dry cucumber, pour rice vinegar, sprinkle with sugar, salt, fennel seeds and suzi seeds, put a few suzi leaves, steam for ten minutes, let it cool, put it in a clean glass bottle and put it on the lid for a few days, it becomes a sweet and sour cucumber with a crisp mouth. Northeast Koreans like to eat blood sausage, after the glutinous rice is soaked soft, mixed with blood, add suzi leaves as a seasoning, and then put the glutinous rice mixed with blood into the casing and steamed, the blood sausage, the color is black and red, there is rice aroma and visceral aroma, the taste is sticky, you can slice dipped in soy sauce, hot sauce directly to eat, you can also spicy stir-fry, or added to the sauce soup to eat. Pig's backbone bone is more meaty, less meaty, disgusted, the Koreans can also make it into a gourmet potato backbone soup, the backbone and potatoes boiled together, seasoned with sauce and spicy sauce, plus Suzi seeds and dried cabbage, boiled out of the soup is salty and delicious, the soup is golden, although the meat is not much, it is better than the taste, as the Dongpo resident said, "all day long, get the slight meat between the teeth, such as crab claws."
Peeled soufflé
In the traditional wedding customs of Guangdong, the married woman should distribute gift cakes to relatives and friends in advance, which is indispensable is the skin soufflé, the skin soufflé is indispensable to the perilla ginger, the crushed ginger shredded with perilla, white sugar first pickled, and then kneaded into the puff pastry, after the pickled ginger is less spicy and more sweet, and the skin egg filling echoes each other, complement each other.
When people in Huangxian eat dog meat, they will make a kind of "dog sauce": dog liver and Su'er leaves are pounded with salt, add chili noodles and dog meat soup to fry the spicy sauce, mix well to make dipping water, more flavorful than dipping garlic paste.
Peel the sashimi dipped in liver soy sauce
This reminds me of the liver soy sauce that Japanese people dip in when they eat peeling (scientific name silk back fine scaled pufferfish, chaoshan people call it Yuandi, and peeling fish are close relatives): peeled cod liver marinated with wine, then put in hot water to blanch it, mash it and stir it with soy sauce, the mellow aroma of soy sauce will further stimulate the aroma of the liver, peeling fish and soaking the liver soy sauce will be more able to eat the rich flavor of peeling. This way of eating with liver as a sauce and dipping meat is quite a bit of original soup and original food, and should be a remnant of the ancient food system. The ancients attached great importance to the role of sauce, Confucius said, "do not eat its sauce", which shows the importance of sauce. In ancient times, there were very few cooking spices, and the techniques were relatively primitive, if there was no suitable sauce to dip, the feeling of eating meat was not good at all, it was better not to eat. The earliest sauce was the meat sauce, "Shijing Daya Xingwei": "Tǎnhǎi)to recommend, or burn or burn." "Pickles" are made by chopping meat into meat paste, mixed with sorghum and salt, stained with fine wine, and fermented in bottles, which is somewhat similar to the current method of making fish sauce. Later, it also refers to the torture of chopping people into meat sauce, "Lü Shi Chunqiu Shenxing": "Kill Mei Bo and kill it, kill the ghost Hou and die." "Dai", Kong Yingda Shuo: "The cover is made of meat, which is particularly juicy, so it is named after the daisy." "醓" is a relatively thinning "醢". Some people also think that "dai" is the blood of animals added to the meat sauce, which is a little thinner, which is heavier. The blood ducks of Hunan Yongzhou and Jiangxi Lotus, and the blood mixed meat of Lancang, Yunnan, may be the remnants of this way of eating. When recording the etiquette of the pre-Qin nobles' meals, the Book of Rites and Inner Rules talks about using different sauces to match different foods: "腶脩蚳醢, 麋醢, 麋醢, Fishy Sauce." "A sauce made of ant eggs when mashed with ginger and cinnamon is eaten, rabbit meat is used when boiled meat (broken into soup), fish is used when eating cooked elk meat, mustard sauce is used when eating sashimi, and meat sauce is used when eating raw elk venison. When People in Huangxian eat dog meat, they are dipped in a sauce made of suer leaves and dog liver, which is also quite an ancient way of eating.
Supplement: "Botanical Names and Facts Tu Kao" Volume 25 "荏" article contains: "荏, Beilu Zhongpin, Bai Suye." Wild in the south, variety in the north, called the home of Suzi, can be used as emulsion, as oil. The Qi Min Zhi Shu (Qi Min Zhi Shu) says that the finches are hungry; the Yibu Fangwu Ji Strategy has the finches, which are said to be ripe and the finches are fat. Li Shizhen and Su Zhen are one. But the purple ones are medicated and drunk, and the white ones are hungry and supplied, and although the sex is the same, the use is different. "Su" article contains: "Su, "Beilu" Zhongpin, "Erya": Su, Gui. Note: Su, Pod. Tujing: Shiso also. Nowadays, there are two kinds of purple on the back of the face and purple back (according to the should be the face of the blue back purple), Hunan thought that Changru, called seaweed, to cook fish is beautiful. There is a joke that the Su word from the fish to this person, but also the water bone water skin of the ear. It is also made of ginger and plum with sugar, quenching thirst in the summer month, and traveling is especially suitable. "The ancients called the body white with long soft hairs, the leaves on both sides are green, and the flowers are white as "white su" and "lyre", and the leaves are purple on both sides or the face is blue-backed purple, and the flower pink to purple is called "Su", "perilla" and "gui", in fact, these mutations are only caused by cultivation, and in botany, the two belong to the same species, so Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" is correct to classify it into one category. White su can also be used medicinally, the effect is slightly inferior to that of perilla, with leaves, young branches, main stem (Su stem) and fruit (white suzi or jade suzi) into the medicine, there is a cold relief table, rational qi wide in the work, used to treat cold cold, headache, cough, chest and abdominal distension and so on.
Some of the pictures are quoted from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the original author