▲ "Pancake roll with green onions"? The people of the eastern and western parts of the country said they had never heard of it! Photography / Lanlan LAN, Picture / Figureworm Creative
-Fengwujun Language-
Not all Shandong people are "pancake man"
Shandong Zhao Zhao - rough
"Dangli Dang, Dangli Dang, gossip don't talk about it, table a table of Shandong good Han Wu Erlang..." This "Shandong Kuaishu" speech in The Jinan dialect is not very popular in my hometown of Northwest Lu, and "Shandong Good Han" Wu Song is actually from Qinghe, Hebei, a place across the river from the Northwest Lu Plain.
▲ Pancakes - synonymous with Shandong cuisine. Cartography/Q year
Almost no one from the Lubei people from the Big Family in Shandong has ever eaten the Shandong pancakes in "China on the Tip of the Tongue II", which is as round as the bright moon and as big as a seat.
Shandong people don't even eat Shandong pancakes - what is the matter?
Before the age of twenty, I ate "fake pancakes"
I haven't eaten the pancakes in the documentary, but I've eaten another kind of "pancakes" that everyone in the Northwest Lu Plain will make. Before I met Shandong Pancake, the "pancake" in my mind was a pancake fried in oil, which was called "batter cake" in our hometown, a kind of cake made of flour paste mixed with salt, green onion, etc., and then spread in a frying pan, similar to Beijing's "paste collapse".
▲ Old Beijing paste. Photography /aijia99, Photo/Figureworm Creative
One day, my college roommate took out a stack of noodles as thin as cicada wings and gave us a taste: "Yimeng Mountain specialties, Shandong pancakes!" From that moment on, my cognition was instantly refreshed: it turned out that before the age of twenty, I ate "fake pancakes"!
The housemate is from the Yimeng Mountains, and the homemade pancakes are often referred to as Shandong pancakes. The most recent popularity of it and its well-known to the people of the whole country came from the spread of "China on the Tip of the Tongue II".
▲ Pancake rolls with green onions, which became popular due to "Tip of the Tongue II". Photo/ Documentary "China on the Tip of the Tongue II"
The traditional Shandong pancake is to grind the grains into a batter and pour into the hot tweezer - the so-called tweezer (ào) seed, is an ancient tool for making cake noodles, mostly made of pig iron, the ancient name of pancakes is called chain cakes.
During the production process, the batter is spread out on the chain, and the person uses a wooden chí to scrape the noodles thinner and thinner until it covers the entire plane, and as the water in the batter evaporates, the pancakes gradually take shape, and in a few minutes, they can be baked.
▲ Pancake rolls with green onions in the field. Photo/ Taobao foodie
Freshly made pancakes are crunchy, take a bite, and the mouth is full of the fragrance of multigrains, and without adding anything, you can go down. Pancakes after being cooled can be stacked together without rotting for a long time.
Speaking of Shandong pancakes, we have to mention Tianjin pancakes. The latter is made with mung bean flour, spread on an iron cake bell, and heated to make a pancake. After the cake is formed, the master quickly opens an egg, sprinkles with chopped green onion, coriander, rolls up fritters or steamed bread (thin and crispy), with noodle sauce, chili sauce, etc., is a set of "pancake dumplings", packed in a paper bag, and then accompanied by a cup of soy milk, which is the breakfast of many office workers.
▲ The making of Tianjin pancake dumplings. Photography / Dapeng DP, Picture / FigureWorm Creative
The two types of pancakes are very different: tianjin pancakes are soft when they come out of the pan, and Shandong pancakes are crisp; Tianjin pancakes are "stalled" out, and Shandong pancakes are "rolled"; Tianjin pancakes are rolled up, and Shandong pancakes are often eaten dry.
In order to adapt to the tastes of the people in the city, the traditional Shandong pancakes have adopted the reform method. Shandong compatriots sell large pancakes in Beijing, humbly learn from Tianjin pancakes, and also began to wrap a variety of fillings, such as coriander, dumplings, sweet noodle sauce and so on.
▲ Pancakes can also be rolled with shallots. Photography/ Breeze, Photo/Figureworm Creativity
When you go out, you can't help but be thrown over and asked: "Shandong people, your big pancakes there are very famous!" "If you're from the east and west of Shandong or Jiaodong, you probably have to explain it to the other party." The other party was half ignorant and half understood, and silently murmured in his mouth: It turns out that not all Shandong people are "pancake people"!
Little known, the three faces of the "Onion Province"
Eating large pancakes, it is often paired with another Shandong specialty into the legendary "pancake roll scallion". Shandong green onions, surprisingly large, the leader is Zhangqiu green onions, often growing how tall a person. Over time, Shandong has a well-known nickname "Onion Province" in the rivers and lakes.
▲ Zhangqiu green onion, "Onion Boundary Yao Ming". Photo/ Taobao foodie
Due to the differences in geographical environment, the food culture area of "Onion Province" can be divided into three gate schools: Luxi Plain Mantou Pie, Luzhong Nanshan Pancake Pie, and Jiaodong Peninsula Seafood Pie.
▲ Shandong geomorphological division compared with the "pancake eating area". According to the research of geographers, the landform of Shandong can be divided into three major parts (Hou Chunling and other scholars divided the Jiaodong Peninsula area into two parts: plains and hills, and this map combines the two into one region). Cartography/Paprika
The Taiyi Mountains, that is, the hilly area of the Southern Mountains of Luzhong Mountain, are roughly the distribution range of Shandong pancakes: north to the southern mountains of Jinan and Zibo, east to the Jiaolai River, west to the east bank of Dongping Lake and Weishan Lake, and south to the provincial border. There are also a group of Jiangsu people who eat pancakes, which are distributed in some counties and cities in Xuzhou, Suqian and Lianyungang, which border Shandong.
Lu Northwest Plain, part of the North China Plain, formed by the alluvial of the Yellow River, covering Dongying, Binzhou, Dezhou, Liaocheng, Heze and the north of Jinan, the western part of Jining; the southern hills of LuzhongNan, composed of Taishan, Yishan, Mengshan, Lushan and other mountain ranges and river valley basins, geographically known as Taiyi Mountain, including Tai'an, Linyi, Rizhao, Zaozhuang and southern Jinan, eastern Jining, southern Zibo, western Weifang; Jiaodong Peninsula (i.e., Shandong Peninsula) plain hills, here surrounded by the sea on three sides, plains, hills are distributed alternately, by Yantai, Weihai, Part of Qingdao and Weifang.
▲ Shandong dialect "three-legged Standing": Jiaoliao dialect, Jilu dialect, Zhongyuan dialect. Cartography/Paprika
The main traditional staple food of the Northwest Lu Plain is steamed buns, the dialect is called "steamed buns", and the "Shandong Big Steamed Buns" that are called in other places mainly come from here, and the sphere of influence of pancakes cannot be extended to this point. The Shandong Peninsula, which juts out to the sea like an eagle's head, is used by the locals as a granary and seafood as a delicacy. Here, you can find sea vegetable buns, mackerel dumplings, seaweed stews everywhere, but you can't see pancakes.
▲ The pancake feast in the hilly area of Luzhong Nanshan, Chunshugou in Mengyin County. Photography / Obscure Kan World, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
The area covered by pancakes, both in terms of population and area, accounts for about 1/3 of the province's area. That is to say, if three Shandong people are randomly found, it is most likely that only one person has eaten pancakes. Why choose this "1/3 of Shandong" for pancakes?
The western plain is located in the hinterland of the Central Plains, with frequent wars and ancient crafts that are easily lost; the coastal fisheries on the peninsula are developed and are not suitable for the breeding of pancakes. In contrast, although there is not much arable land in the central mountainous areas, it is rich in grains, the mountainous hilly environment, the war invasion is relatively small, many ancient villages have been preserved, and traditional customs, including pancake making, have been passed on.
▲ The Dawen River at the foot of Mount Taishan is an important tributary of the lower reaches of the Yellow River. Photography / Qi Weidong, Photo / Figureworm Creative
On the basis of Tai'an and Linyi pancakes, there are many new ways to eat them, such as vegetable pancakes in Tengzhou, Zaozhuang City, adding leeks, cabbage, carrots and other vegetables between several pancakes baked with tweezers, with peppers, peppers, etc., steamed and eaten immediately; salty pancakes in Qufu, Jining City, with thin skin, more filling, can be meat and vegetarian, like dehydrated sandwich biscuits after a long time; The Jinan area is influenced by neighbor Tai'an pancakes, adding white sugar to the millet paste, inventing the local characteristics of sugar crisp pancakes.
▲ Tengzhou's "vegetable pancakes", photo / Tian Chunyu
What kind of cakes do Shandong people who don't eat pancakes eat?
If you give all Shandong people a common "delicious head" (Lu northwest dialect, referring to delicious food), it must be a cake. Cake is the common language of Luzhong pancake pie, peninsula seafood pie, and plain steamed bun pie.
▲ "Eat cake". Photo/ Movie "Nine Pin Sesame Officer"
Eating cake is a famous meme on the Internet, from the line in the movie "Nine Pin Sesame Officers" starring Stephen Chow: "Come on, feed the two princes to eat cake!" In restaurants and restaurants all over Shandong, in the streets and alleys of the city, and in the fields, the picture of "eating cake" is carried out all the time.
▲ Above: Jinxiang baked cake in southwest Luzhou; bottom picture: Handmade mooncake in Jinxiang County. Photography / Zhao Bo
In the western plains, you can eat Jinxiang baked cakes, Yuncheng Zhuang steamed buns, Caozhou Geng cakes, Caoxian hanging furnace baked cakes, Dongchangfu Shazhen Que Da, Yanggu Shouzhang meat spinners, Xinxian ancient city Mandarin duck cakes, Chiping horseshoe cakes, Shanghe sugar crispy fire. In the central mountainous hills, there are Tengzhou cuisine pancakes, republican cold vegetable rolls, Junan pot cakes, Zhoucun roast cakes, Fanzhen fire, and Kouzhen square fire.
Jiaodong people in binhai are also very good at eating cakes, Weifang has "Chaotian Pot", Weicheng Fire, Ma Song Cake, Yantai has Pan Silk Cake, Weihai has Rongcheng Daughter-in-Law Cake, Shengjia Fire. Jiaodong coastal fishing villages popular to eat a kind of corn sticker, must be paired with iron pot stew fish, locally known as "fish pot slices" or "fish pot cake".
▲ Weifang roasted clay stove meat fire. Photo: Breakfast China
The first snack in the provincial city of Jinan, Oil Spinning, is a kind of fried round tangled silk cake; the delicate representative of Lu cuisine is Qufu Kongfu pastry, of which more than half are cakes, such as vine flower cake, lily cake, mint cake, lotus cake, mung bean cake, chrysanthemum cake, osmanthus cake, radish cake, bean sand cake, date pancake and so on.
▲ Handmade mung bean cake, which is also a kind of cake. Photography / Spiral of Silence
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > cakes, although there are many, pancakes have the most stories</h1>
Shandong's cakes are so rich, why should the last representative be pancakes?
First, pancakes are not proud of their appearance, but they are orderly. At least since the Jin Dynasty, pancakes were once distributed in the vast north. The traditional pancake making preserved in Taishan and Yimeng Mountains can be called the living fossils of ancient craftsmanship.
Second, the bread is not high, but the immortal is named. Yuan Ming, the most edible in the Qing Dynasty, wrote more about Jiangnan cuisine in his "Suiyuan Food List", but he also ordered the name of Shandong pancakes: "Shandong Kong Fantai homemade pancakes, as thin as cicada wings, as big as tea plates, tender and exquisite." He even believes, "Eat Kong Fangbo pancakes, and the pancakes under the world can be abolished." Pu Songling, a local scholar, wrote a special article on "Pancake Fu", which detailed the classification, production and eating of pancakes.
▲ Linyi Menglianggu Battle Memorial Hall supports the old scene of the army branch. Photography / Autumn Shadow with the Wind, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
Third, the Battle of Huaihai made Shandong pancakes famous all over the world. The Yimeng Mountains, where mountains and rivers intertwine, are naturally suitable for guerrilla warfare and have become a famous old revolutionary area in Shandong. General Su Yu recalled: "The victory in the Huaihai battlefield is inseparable from the small cart of the people of Shandong... People in the Linyi area would rather eat chaff and sweet potato leaves themselves, and even fill their hunger with leaves and wild vegetables, and also send pancakes made of wheat, corn, millet, and sorghum to the troops. ”
▲ "Big cake rolls and green onions" in the movie "Red Sun".
The revolutionary story of the old district of Yimeng has been filmed into many film and television dramas, and the scene of "Yimeng Red Sister-in-law" baking pancakes for soldiers has appeared many times. Among them, in the film "Red Sun", there is a picture of "pancake rolls and green onions". Pancakes that have made a miraculous contribution to the revolution really have a chivalrous courage, and if they are called "pancake man", they are also worthy of the name.
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