The rainstorm clouds that had been hovering over Shanxi since the beginning of October were finally slowly dissipating with the full support of the whole country.
The rainfall that has been inflicted on the land of Shanxi is almost unprecedented.
The rainfall, which is 13 times more intense than usual, hits quickly, equivalent to flooding nearly 98 West Lakes at once;
More than 3.5 million acres of farmland were destroyed and nearly 20,000 houses collapsed;
1763 ancient buildings were in danger, and a section of the 25-meter-long wall of the ancient city of Pingyao collapsed...
The disaster situation is like this, but Shanxi's attention on the Internet has always been low.
Is it because the coal ash raised makes Shanxi dust?
Or is it because the three natural dangers of Lüliang, Taihang and the Yellow River hide Shanxi?
"No one asks Jin", it is really not right!
Even so, at present, many places in China are in a state of emergency, and Shanxi, the "furnace" of Chinese, is still the first to stand up and ensure the coal supply of 14 provinces with the strength of one province!
"Lighted up half of the country's lights, and burned half of the kang in north China"
This is how Shanxi silently warms China...
Shanxi should never be forgotten.
Although the low-key Shanxi is not ostentatious, the ancient buildings silently tell its thickness.
Shanxi Province has 452 national key cultural relics protection units, of which ancient buildings before the Yuan Dynasty, Shanxi accounted for more than 70% of the existing in the country.
Shanxi is like a magnificent picture scroll that few people have ever appreciated, hiding a great river and mountain that cannot be written inexhaustibly:
Hukou Waterfall, Eight Hundred Mile Taihang, Yuncheng Salt Lake, Datong Tulin...
As long as you have seen the beauty of Shanxi, you will only never forget it.
For food lovers, Shanxi is the "cosmic center" of Chinese pasta.
Since the beginning of the examination, Shanxi people have eaten noodles for more than 2,000 years.
Taking the noodles in the historical data as an example, the Eastern Han Dynasty called it "boiled cake", the Wei and Jin Dynasties called it "soup cake"; the Southern and Northern Dynasties called it "water introduction"; and the Tang Dynasty called it "cold tao"...
The love of food is deeply rooted in the genes of Shanxi people.
The unique terroir gave birth to the "small grain kingdom" of Shanxi, and under the skillful hands of Shanxi people, it has become a variety of noodle dishes and deduced a colorful pasta culture.
The Lüliang, Hengshan and Wutai mountains that run through Shanxi blocked the humid monsoon from the ocean, making the northern Jin region more arid and cold, which was very different from the climatic environment in the central and southeastern Jin, and eventually led to the abundant grain production in various parts of Shanxi.
In the warm and humid jinnan, ears of wheat have built the foundation of the Shanxi pasta universe.
With the help of different tools, shanxi people have made flour dough ever-changing: hand-rolled noodles, ramen noodles, sharpened, sharpened...
In jinzhong, where the four seasons are distinct, crops such as sorghum and millet are made into cat ears, noodles, and not rotten... How many Shanxi people's stomachs have been warmed.
In the arid and cold northern Jin, the tenacious growth of wheat and buckwheat has also turned into noodle fish, dipped slices, and chestnuts under the skillful hands of the Shanxi people...
Looking at Shanxi noodles, there are many kinds of stars,
I can't help but ask: How many kinds of delicious noodles are still hidden in Shanxi?
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="74" > Jinnan</h1>
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="75" > knife cutting surface is short, and the bird surface is long</h1>
In the warmer Jinnan region, which borders the Yellow River, the warm-loving wheat is more productive. The seeds of this global noodle world migrated from Central Asia, took root and sprouted under the nourishment of the Yellow River, and eventually became the most important one in the source of Shanxi's noodle culture.
The reason is that wheat is rich in gluten protein, which has excellent viscoelasticity and elongation, making the pasta made of wheat flour both sticky and elastic; and the length of time of kneading the dough can determine the amount of gluten protein produced.
In the past thousand years of getting along, shanxi people have gradually understood the mystery of wheat, just like everything in one life, two and three, and make a handful of wheat flour into countless delicious pasta dishes.
Among the many pasta dishes, knife-cut noodles should be the most famous Shanxi noodles in the country. "A leaf falls from the pot and a leaf floats, a leaf leaves the surface and out of the knife, the silver fish falls into the water and turns the white waves, and the willow leaves ride the wind under the treetops" Slip slips, rendering the production of the knife cutting surface a chivalrous atmosphere. The skilled master can even close his eyes and "whizz" the shaving knife to cut out a uniformly slender dough from the dough on the top of the hat.
When the noodles are cooked in the pot, the noodles become powerful and powerful, and when the meat is poured with the marinade, you can eat it. A mouthful of suction, but the noodles are unexpectedly soft and ironed, after sucking up the marinade, it is even more mellow, and in the blink of an eye, a bowl of noodles will fall (eat) in the wind.
There is also an interesting statement about the knife cutting surface. It is said that during the Yuan Dynasty, the Han people were not allowed to hold kitchen knives and had no knives to cut, how is it good? The clever Shanxi people use iron sheets as knives, and the "knife" falls in their hands, and the slightly oily noodles with the roots still sneak into the pot like flying fish. It can be said that nothing can stop the Shanxi people from falling, never.
Probably the oldest mechanical noodles, you need to use a special "bird bed" in order to put the dough in the bird bed, and sit on the lever to squeeze the dough, and a slender noodle can be drilled through the leak hole and boiled into the pot, maintaining a soft and bone-like taste under uniform pressure.
The noodles are soft and slender, so they also have the meaning of longevity and longevity. Therefore, every time there is a wedding celebration and an old people's birthday banquet, it is always indispensable to share good wishes with bowls of noodles.
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="163" > Jinzhong</h1>
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="164" > and rice warm, foreskin noodles fragrant</h1>
There are poems: "Taihang GuanYan Dance, Fenshui listening to the sound of parrots, Liang Buy Qinzhou Huang, Jiugu Xinghua Village". This poem not only tells the style of Shanxi's landscape, but also tells the story of two of the grains abundant in Jinzhong.
Among them, "Qinzhou Huang" refers to the Qinzhou Huang Xiaomi in Qin County, Changzhi City. According to records, when Kangxi ate the millet produced in Qinzhou, his whole body was comfortable, so Long Yan was overjoyed and gave this millet the name of "Qinzhou Yellow" with a big stroke.
Millet, which is already drought-tolerant and barren, has been given better growing conditions in the relatively humid and warm Jinzhong, and finally rewards people's labor with a refreshing delicacy.
Slowly boil the yellow millet over a low heat, wait until the rice grains and water blend, and the thick and thick rice oil of the soup emerges, which is the signal that the boiling is good. Drink it at the right time, all the organs are warm, as if every pore is singing the tenderness of millet.
The characteristics of millet make it applied to the production of many noodles, and the rice is made of millet, noodles and potatoes, melons and other seasonal vegetables to smelt a bowl of Shanxi specialties. According to the proportion of ingredients, millet and noodles, wakako rice can be subdivided into paste noodles and sub rice, mixed noodles and sub rice, rubbing tip rice, pressing tip rice... And so on.
Traditional wakako rice, first of all, the millet is boiled into a noodle soup, and added to the vegetables of Renjun's choice, only at this time, it is already full of sweetness; then add hand-rolled noodles to cook, and finally use hot oil to "sting" to stimulate the aroma of pepper noodles, sweet and hemp aroma in the gentle support of millet, a perfect waka rice is completed. The aroma is in the soul, the heart is not distracted, just want to eat a bowl while it is hot...
The second half of the poem, "Jiugu Xinghua Village", although it refers to the famous Fenjiu, one of the main raw materials for winemaking is the sorghum abundant in the Jinzhong region.
The Jinzhong region is likely the birthplace of Chinese sorghum. It is recorded in the "Nine Valley Examinations": "The old saying is that the first kind of means is ji. Nowadays, the seeds sown in the northern valleys have been examined successively, sorghum is the first, millet is second, millet is second, but the first sorghum is also ... Yu Wen's wind and yang people are cloudy, and the sorghum is the earliest planted in the other land. ”
According to archaeological data and research results at home and abroad, the history of cultivating sorghum in the Jinzhong region is at least 4,000 years old, and it is entirely possible that Chinese sorghum originated independently, rather than being imported from Central Asia like wheat. If the research is true, the gold content of Shanxi as the "cosmic center" of Chinese pasta will inevitably add a few points.
Simply using sorghum noodles as pasta, it is inevitable that it is dry and difficult to swallow, Shanxi people skillfully wrapped the sorghum dough with white dough and rolled it thin, cutting out a strip of red and white noodles.
Sorghum noodles and white noodles are thick and thin, with the unique texture of you have me and I have you; coupled with meat and vegetarian toppings, the mouth is fragrant, and there is a different taste. This is the distinctive "sandwich noodles" in the Lüliang and Xinzhou regions of Jinzhong - foreskin noodles.
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="165" > Jinbei</h1>
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" data-track="166" > soft and cool bowl noodles</h1>
In northern Jin, which is drier and colder than southern Jin, many grains still grow here tenaciously, such as cold-loving and drought-resistant barley and buckwheat.
Limited by the traffic environment, wheat flour in southern Jinnan was once difficult to transport to many mountainous areas in northern Jin, and noodles and soba noodles have become one of the few choices for people to eat. The folk song "There is no good tea in the mountains, only the noodles and the yam egg" sings the situation in which there was no choice.
In recent years, the road has connected every small mountain village in the northern Jin dynasty, so that rice, white noodles, and corn flour can be eaten at any time, but wheat and buckwheat are always the "noodles" that people in northern Jinbei are reluctant to give up and have been handed down from generation to generation.
Picture | Zhang Kaixin ©
It is true that the rough noodles do not have the malleability of wheat and are somewhat limited in making pasta, but in the hands of the Shanxi people, they can still activate the pasta magic and conjure up nearly a hundred tricks, such as the just mentioned noodles.
Prepare the reconciled noodles, and then pull out one by one, and the Shanxi people will start another magic show. With a rub of the palm of the hand and a twist of the fingers, a roll of thin and translucent chestnuts is as good as a trick. Small holes, like carp in a park pond with small mouths open and waiting to be fed.
After steaming, quickly give the fish a spoonful of lamb or tomato egg brine, soft tendons, delicious, fragrant, domineering and miserable...
Picture 2| Xiaofeng - Photo ©
▲ "栳栳", also known as "笆斗", is a tool for drawing water and holding things made of bamboo or wicker
Although the slightly green and black buckwheat is not as nutritious as the barley, it has a strong texture and chewiness. The people of northern Jin, full of wisdom, still make it into a series of special pasta dishes according to local conditions.
▲The soba style of Eating "Cat Ears" in Shanxi is "Soba Noodle Dumplings"
Buckwheat bowl holder, also known as "bowl ball" in Shanxi dialect, is a shanxi summer cooling product made of buckwheat. The soba noodles are added to the paste and steamed, then cooled and cut into strips, and then poured with spicy pork liver or garlic vinegar and spicy oil to eat, the taste is delicious and delicious, the strength is smooth, and it is widely popular in Xinzhou, Dingbian and other buckwheat production areas.
Shanxi's special terroir, diverse climate and long history of farming not only contribute more than 14 million tons of grain to the whole country every year, but also nurture a long-standing pasta culture.
If there is no Shanxi,
China is about to lose 300+ kinds of noodles,
20+ less noodle-making gestures and efforts...
This is only a recorded figure.
Although the torrential rains flooded the land and washed away the crops,
But it will never drown Shanxi's rich pasta culture.
Stay until the sunny day of Jin, let's go and eat noodles to the fullest.
Pictures 1 and 2 | small fat squint ©
Resources:
This rain disaster in Shanxi is really serious... 丨 Author China News Network
Where did Chinese sorghum originate? Here, there is a countdown... 丨 Author Wenbo Shanxi
Grain production in Shanxi Province increased by 4.6% in 2020 丨 Author Taiyuan Evening News
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