Table dipped in water.
At the Silk Road International Expo, Yangling dipped in the water surface to gain the favor of diners.
"Qin Xiangyuan" dipped in the water noodles The master is making the dipping water noodles.
Diners taste Yangling dipped in water.
In recent years, the high-quality rapeseed squeezed from the "Qin Miscellaneous Oil" series of rapeseed selected by the Shaanxi Hybrid Rapeseed Research Center in Yangling has given more scientific and technological content to the water surface of Yangling. The picture shows the "Qin Miscellaneous Oil 11" test field.
In Yangling, if someone greets you in front of the noodle shop, "Come, eat noodles, ask for a few", don't be surprised. It is not surprising that the noodle theory "root" is considered, because this is Yang Ling's unique way of eating noodles - dipping in water.
Dipping water noodles, also known as soft noodles, trouser belt noodles, and over the water, is Yangling's characteristic noodles and one of the representative noodles of Shaanxi's catering culture. Walk into any of Yangling's dipping water noodle shops, you can hear the boss guy skillfully read out the local household name of the smooth slip: "The noodles are white and thin, the soup is spicy and fragrant, the soup noodles are divided into pots, and the more you chew, the more fragrant you feel!" ”
In April 2018, yangling dipping water surface making technique declared by Yangling Ningli Restaurant was included in the sixth batch of intangible cultural heritage list of Shaanxi Province. Recently, the reporter walked into Yangling's large and small dipping water noodle shops to see how a home-cooked dipped water surface on the soil stove platform once rode the east wind of the development of modern agricultural science city and "pulled" out of the tens of millions of yuan of large industries.
Nostalgic memories in "One Face"
In the memory of Li Xiaowu, a Yangling man who went south and north when he was young, did a "state banquet", and saw the world, the most fragrant thing is the bowl of water that his mother made on the soil stove during the busy season of farming when he was a child.
The firewood fire burns the stove, the front pot boils the water, the tomato egg under the back pot burns the soup, a iron spoon filled with half a spoonful of golden vegetable oil probes into the stove fire, the leeks and garlic seedlings are fried in an iron spoon, "Zi La" is poured into the tomato egg soup, red tomatoes, yellow scrambled eggs, green leeks and garlic seedlings, pulled into a trouser belt thick noodles, scooped a spoonful of farm vinegar on the table, oil spicy seeds and oil splashed garlic paste, that taste, so that Li Xiaowu, who is already a national special level cook, now recalls, and can't help but sigh a sentence "Beautiful drops are very much!" ”
This is a unique nostalgic memory that haunts the minds of Yangling people, and it is a unique preferential treatment that belongs to their stomachs.
Yangling is a well-known agricultural city, eight hundred miles of Qinchuan fertile wilderness, the wheat grown is full of grains, the flour is fragrant with wheat, and the noodles are smooth and tendoned. A few decades ago, there were many people in Guanzhong Province, and the older generations were planing food in the field, and when the field was tight during the summer harvest, they had to eat a bowl of food that could carry half a day's hunger. Therefore, Yang Ling's eldest girl and daughter-in-law are all good at making dipping water. With the rapid development of Yangling and its opening up to the outside world, more and more foreign tourists come to visit just to taste the taste of dipping water. With the craftsmanship passed down from generation to generation, many locals have opened dipping water noodle shops.
Walking in the streets and alleys of Yangling, large and small dipping water noodle shops are everywhere, many of which are small areas of "mom-and-pop shops".
Located on Boxue Road in Yangling District, Juxian Pavilion dipped in water is such a small shop. In the less than 20 square meters of storefront, husband Zhang Hongjian went out on time to buy vegetables at 6 o'clock every morning, and his wife Nanya Ying began to mix noodles, mix side dishes, and marinate pig's trotters. Such a life has lasted for more than 20 years. Relying on the early greed and honest management day after day, the couple bought a wedding house for their son in Xi'an.
"Flour, seasonal vegetables, spicy seeds, vegetable oil are all good to buy, doing business depends on conscience, bad things we don't use." South Asia said. From the earth stove at home to the broader market, what is improved is the production technique, and what does not change is the conscience and kindness of the simple Yangling people, as well as the unique emotion and reverence for this face.
"When I was young, I also went out to work, but later I still felt that nothing was as good as dipping water noodles in my hometown." In the small kitchen, the boss Zhang Hongjian lifted a heavy weight to tear open a noodle, and fine beads of sweat oozed from his forehead, but his face was a comfortable smile.
The inheritance of ingenuity in "One Noodle"
A noodle, infused with the strength of the maker, but also a very elaborate craftsmanship.
Liu Xiaoqing, 53, is the noodle pulling master of Ning Li Restaurant, who has been dipping water noodles for more than 30 years, and noodles, kneading noodles, waking up noodles, pulling noodles... At every step, the dough was very obedient in her hands.
Kneading is the most core process in the whole process. "The dough must be kneaded, compacted, mashed and kneaded repeatedly to ensure that the draft is uniform, so that it can be firm and tough." Liu Xiaoqing said that only by riveting enough strength can you knead longer and longer, knead more and more tendons, and knead more and more light.
After the noodles are kneaded, it is necessary to rub the plate into a long and thick "noodle dragon", wake up for a moment, and use your hands to make 2 double doughs. It is time-consuming and laborious to pull the hands, but the masters are never lazy. "The dough of the hand is broken and folded, and the shape is rounded after kneading. Second, with the experience and feel of the masters over the years, the size and amount of the flour extracted are both uniform and accurate. Zhao Junli, the owner of the shop and the inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Shaanxi Province, said.
After the dough is made, the hands are kneaded with a belt, kneaded into a 3 cm thick and 12 cm long round strip, smeared with cooked oil and begin to wake up. After the guest orders, the noodle maker will squash the waking dough by hand and roll it into a wide slice. In the middle, a small rolling stick is used to press a stripe, and then split along the embossing after being ripped open, or it can be directly pulled and thrown into a 2-fold, 4-5 cm wide, 1.5 m long, 2-3 mm thick "trouser belt surface".
"Boiling water is like being a person, paying attention to innocence." Liu Xiaoqing said. The noodles are boiled to the second time into the seasonal greens, the greens can be spinach, alfalfa, pea sprouts, water chestnuts, gray ash, etc., a white and a green intertwined in the boiling pot churning, eight hundred miles of pingchuan road on the four seasons of wind and rain, creating this bowl of heaven and earth essence.
A bowl of authentic Yangling dipped in the water must be made to make the soup oily and not greasy, the noodles not hard, and the taste of dipping many times is still the same. "The soup base is made of bone broth from old hens and pig bones all night, 10 pounds of chicken, 10 pounds of pig bones, 10 times the water, and gollum all night to make the next day's broth." Referring to the secret of the delicious soup base, Li Xiaowu said.
When mixing the sauce, first sauté the chopped shallots, ginger and tomatoes, then add the broth and seasonings, bring it to a boil on high heat and beat the egg flowers along the edge of the pot, add the vinegar that has been boiled with ginger oil, and a pot of fresh and fragrant soup will come out of the pot.
In Yangling, there are many homes dipping in water noodles, and the methods of soup are not the same. Qin Xiangyuan Dipping Water Noodles Pavilion first uses a blazing fire to cook oil, quickly scatter eggs, and then add tomatoes and other ingredients; Ning Li Restaurant first cooks soup and then beats egg flowers; Juxian Pavilion adds soup with roasted pig's trotters to the soup base. The magic weapons of each family are different, but there are many generations that have been handed down from generation to generation, and everyone tacitly abides by them, such as the use of raw materials, such as the way to eat noodles.
Zhao Junli introduced that there are more than 20 kinds of condiments in the soup, the raw materials for making oil spicy seeds and garlic paste are quite exquisite, spicy seeds are from the surrounding Xingping, Wugong, Fufeng, Qishan dryland planted in the local stubble Qin pepper, with stone milling to the thickness of the moderate, spicy oil must be used to cool the cooked oil, while heating while splashing, the so-called "one splash color, two spicy, three splash incense." The garlic used in the oil to splash the garlic paste is from the high-quality production areas of Xingping and Wugong, and when the oil temperature is 40% high, it is poured through to remove the fishy fragrance.
"Eating dipped water is like a bold Guanzhong person sincerely inviting people to eat, paying attention to 'pulling and pulling'." When the soup and noodles were served at the same time, Li Xiaowu half-jokingly talked about the exquisiteness of eating noodles, "Put the soup bowl and the basin next to each other, and pull the noodles from the basin to the soup bowl little by little along the edge of the bowl." The noodles should not be soaked for too long, and eat as they dip, otherwise they will lose the smooth taste of the tendons. ”
Holding up this bowl of dipped water in front of you, the change of time, the inheritance of generations, and the flow of culture make people taste the fragrance of the heart.
The economic code in "One Face"
A noodle fully embodies the bold character and stubborn spirit of Guanzhong people, and also integrates into the profound regional culture, and now, it is more mutually successful with the scientific and technological fans of agricultural science and technology and the prosperity of the local people.
With the improvement of social consumption level, Yangling is also facing the problem of transformation and upgrading. Most noodle shops belong to family workshops, which is obviously difficult to adapt to people's needs for improved food quality. Li Xiaowu, president of the Yangling Food Culture Research Association, who has been catering for most of his life, smelled the business opportunities - let the dipping water surface be "branded, industrialized and marketized".
In 2019, Li Xiaowu's Qin Xiangyuan Dipping Water Noodles Pavilion was officially opened, with a spacious storefront, decoration with Guanzhong characteristics, a variety of traditional Guanzhong cuisine dishes, and warm and thoughtful service, attracting many diners to come from other places to taste the food.
In the past, there was no fixed industry standard for dipping water. "Chefs can't always rely on experience and feel, which is not conducive to the stability of quality and large-scale opening." Li Xiaowu said that with the strong support of the government, he joined hands with professors from the Food College of Northwest A&F University and senior experts from the Shaanxi Provincial Hotel Association and the Food Culture Research Association to jointly formulate the industry standard of "Yangling Dipping Water Surface", which has also been recognized by many local dipping water noodle merchants.
A seemingly ordinary bowl of dipped water noodles involves a variety of ingredients such as wheat, vegetable oil, balsamic vinegar, Qin pepper, leek, garlic seedlings and other ingredients in the local and surrounding areas, and the increasing demand for excellence in these ingredients has been blessed by the agricultural scientific and technological achievements of Yangling Nongke City in recent years, which has broadened the road to the development of rural industries.
"If you want to eat noodles, find Xiao Yan." The flour milled from the "Xiao Yan" series of wheat developed by Northwest A&F University has always been the first choice for noodles in various dipping water shops. "We have always used 'Xiaoyan 22' in our shop, which is good in malleability and the noodles that are pulled out are tendons and light." Zhao Junli said.
Make a good noodle, first strengthen the chain. In recent years, Yangling Demonstration Zone has relied on its own talent team and the construction of academician expert workstations to continuously cultivate wheat varieties "Xinong 979", "Xinong 511", "Wunong 981" and "Wunong 988" that have been reviewed abroad. High-quality strong gluten wheat varieties have high protein content, the noodles produced have good ductility, and the soup and gluten are clear after cooking. The rapeseed extracted from the "QinZao" series of rapeseed selected and bred by the Shaanxi Hybrid Rapeseed Research Center in Yangling is bright in color, healthy and nutritious. Northwest A&F University's vegetable and breeding experimental demonstration stations throughout the province have also given more scientific and technological strength to the raw materials for Yangling dipped in water.
"Old classmates returned to Yangling from Canada to visit relatives, and at the party, he said that Yangling dipped water surface has been sold to Toronto, which shows that the dipping water surface has drifted across the ocean, and I am proud of it!" He Xulin, chairman of the Yangling Demonstration Area Literary Association and chairman of the Writers Association, wrote in his essay.
Nowadays, grand events such as the Agricultural High School, the International Marathon and the upcoming National Games have brought new opportunities to this modern agricultural science city, and Yangling has also become a new driving force for stimulating local economic development, with an output value of more than 10 million yuan.
How to make this noodle taste modern and cultural? Yangling Demonstration Zone has been sparing no effort to do the guidance work. In recent years, Yangling Demonstration Zone has taken Yangling dipping water surface as an important carrier to publicize the image of the city and promote the development of the catering industry, and has made Yangling dip water surface a well-known Yangling city business card by increasing publicity and promotion, formulating and promulgating local standards, standardizing and rectifying the local market, and formulating brand development strategies. In addition, through the annual Yangling dipping water surface cooking competition, dipping water noodle tasting activities, dipping water surface essay contest, wheat culture festival and other activities, Yangling dipping water surface more cultural connotation.
This year, in order to further improve and strengthen the "Yangling Dipping Water Surface" brand, Yangling District issued relevant documents, planning to cooperate with Yangling District Cultural Investment Company, in 2021 to build 100 brand flagship stores with high standards, and by 2023, achieve annual operating income of 600 million yuan and drive employment of more than 6,000 people. A road to the integration and development of Yangling dipping water surface that implements the brand strategy and realizes the operation of the whole industry and all fields is clearly unfolding towards the future. (Reporter Li Wanrongwen/Photo)
Source: Shaanxi Daily