laitimes

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

author:The Paper

Boom

On the small full day, there is no hot summer between the mountains and mountains in western Yunnan, and the lukewarm plateau sun has filled the fruit with pulp. The bazi bazaar is filled with sweet aromas and is covered with fresh water spirits that are only a dozen kilometers away from the branches hanging down to the beautiful stalls.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Market stalls Lonely Places Carry bamboo baskets to catch up with the picture The pictures in this article are provided by the author unless they are noted

In the days of Western Yunnan, we always pinched the days to catch the market. One episode per day in the small village, one episode in ten days in the big town. Unveiled in the summer from cherries, sweet and sour Chinese cherries – not the kind of "cherries" commonly found in supermarkets in the city – are the smallest native varieties, yellow and red, and the taste covers a hill of cherries.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Western Yunnan cherry

Local cherries are not as good as imported cherries in the circulation market, because they are too delicate to stay away from the branches, and they can't be left for a day or two at most, and they spoil, so they have to be eaten nearby. Some cunning locals do not bargain or rush, only wandering around the set without hurrying, and when the market is about to close, they go to the cherry stall to collect the bottom. At this time, the seller will sell the rest at any low price.

Along with cherries, mulberries are also on the market. Country children also do not pay attention to soaking a salt water disinfection, and they grab it and eat it with a purple mouth. Wild mulberries are much smaller than the marketable varieties, only half the size of knuckles, but outstanding sweetness.

In recent years, blueberry cultivation has been quietly booming. Blueberries that were always planted in the three eastern provinces in the past suddenly came to the southwest. At an altitude of 2,000 meters in western Yunnan, the water heat and sunshine conditions are very good, and the blueberries grown are sufficient in moisture and sweetness, which is not inferior to the northern varieties. In particular, the plateau has sufficient ultraviolet rays, the anthocyanin content of the fruit is particularly high, and the color and appearance are very exciting.

In the fresh counter of the North Shanghai-Guangzhou Supermarket, many blueberries are produced in Western Yunnan - of course, compared with the fine products of the size of the grains, the West Yunnan Market is more casual, and it is divided into two stalls, and the price is not even a fraction of that of the first-tier cities.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

White grass and blueberries

Many locals look down on the grown blueberries, and feel that it is not as expensive as wild varieties, such as various "amaranth": red amaranth, yellow amaranth, white amaranth, black amaranth... The price tag will be written as "bubbles", sold in a basket, and it will emphasize that they are wild bubbles picked from the mountains.

Of course, in recent years, there have also been cultivated varieties called "raspberries" or "raspberries" that have entered the city and sold more expensive than meat.

It's not hard to distinguish between cultivated and wild arveds, just look at the head. The artificially grown grapes are medium in size, full-bodied, but not very sweet in taste. The harvested wild grass is like a small thumb knuckle, and the sweet pulp gushes out in one bite, and the sweetness persists at the base of the tongue.

The grass is not easy to get, the fingers are collected and suffered, especially the white grass is small and soft, and the whole thing is crushed with a little bit of strength, and the branches and vines are prickly and prickly, and most of the day is not enough to pick a basket.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Black Grass infographic

It is not easy to eat the herbs and often think that the pickers, but the cactus fruit will be "burdened" to the diners themselves. If it is reckless, it hurts most of the day as soon as you get started. There are many wild cacti in the mountains of western Yunnan, and the flowers at the top of the "palm" in May and June are thankful, forming fist-like fruits, and the skin is covered with a cluster of small burrs, which are thin and sharp, and it is easy to pick out when they are rooted in the skin.

The picker took the fire tongs and clipped them from afar, and came to the market in sacks, counting only the price, a few cents a fruit. It is best to use a knife and fork, everything in half, and then peel, many hard seeds in the basket, which is quite good for digestion. You can also dig out the urn to serve yogurt, which is a refreshing dessert to relieve the heat.

Cactus has a close relative of the same family called dragon fruit, which has also been vigorously promoted in recent years to be cultivated in the south. Or rely on the plateau sunshine, the sunburned dragon flesh is particularly sweet, and easy to peel and do not tie hands, naturally popular, very few people are willing to plant difficult cacti, anyway, a large piece of life in the mountains, eat as you go.

At the end of May, the plums are ripe, and there are many wild plum trees on the mountain - in the early spring, february and March, go up the mountain to admire the flowers, see which merlin, and in May and June, they will come to find fruit. "When the plum is fat, it is light on the ground", the ripe plum falls under the tree and ferments naturally, and you can smell the intoxicating sweet fragrance when you get close. Pick up a basket and come back, pick the skin intact and harmless, and put it on the table and a room full of incense.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Yunnan wild plums

The varieties of plums are mostly sour and astringent, and they are the most suitable for brewing wine. There are many mountainous springs in western Yunnan, and there are always people making wine in the good springs, and the baogu wine is the most, followed by bitter buckwheat wine and sorghum wine. To brew plum wine, it is necessary to use a high degree of liquor with good purity to soak a good color and retain the fruity aroma. Wash the plums to dry and soak them in white wine with large pieces of yellow rock sugar, and the longer they are stored, the more mellow they become.

The Dali Bai people have another ingenious way of processing plums, carving them, and using salt with honey, which is for "Dali carved plums". The technique of carving plums is said to be as far back as the Southern Zhao Kingdom of the Sheng Tang Dynasty, and it still remains in the homes of the Bai people.

Dali is rich in large plums, round and fat, and the line of carved plums also has many names. The most common is the chrysanthemum pattern, which continuously cuts the flesh of the peel, squeezes the plum core out of the slit, and then flattens the pulp, looking like a spiraling chrysanthemum, as if completing a three-dimensional geometric problem.

Carved plums are easier to pickle, salted to remove the sourness, and then immersed in honey or sugar jars for several months. The pickled carved plums are used as a snack, served with sake, or brewed, and can also be used as a seasoning for boiled meat and boiled fish.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Dali carved mei le brand number / Yun Bao cultural tourism all media

In addition to plums, papayas are also acidic.

If it is in the lower Lincang and Banna areas, it is often eaten with sour papaya and pepper dipped in water, and it is not clear for a while whether it is a fruit or a wine dish. Dali Lijiang and other places more to make sour papaya stew chicken or boiled fish, borrow natural fruit acid to make sour soup, appetizing and refreshing. In the ancient city of Weishan, the hometown of Nanzhao, everyone will make papaya vinegar, and fresh sour papaya is pickled and fermented in brine to make a sweet and slightly sour taste.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Fresh sour papaya

On the cold powder stalls on the streets of Weishan, the standard papaya vinegar is free to drink, both as a condiment and as a drink, each family has its own methods, and the flavor is subtlely different. Weishan people are accustomed to drinking a bowl of papaya vinegar after meals to remove grease and lose fat. A city is rarely blessed, and most of them have the credit of papaya vinegar.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Weishan Street sells papaya rough nonsense Jundao picture

Even more sour is the milk fruit, the scientific name is "Hu Decadent", which is common in the wilderness of Several Provinces of Yunguichuan. This wild fruit is covered with white spots on the skin, which is easier to recognize, and it is said that in the past, herders used to rely on it to quench their hunger and thirst.

The milk fruit has a very high vitamin C content, so the taste is also very sour, and it can only be considered "sweet and sour" when it is just ripe. And most of the wild encounters are sour and astringent. From the surface of the fruit, the ripeness can not be seen, and it can only be tasted in one bite to know whether it can be eaten. In addition to the edible food sold in the market, the wild will always be tempted to taste one, buy lottery-like mentality - the ending is often the same as buying lottery tickets.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Milk fruits, mulberries and strawberries from the market

Emblica seeds, listening to the name of the aftertaste sweet, is actually sour and indescribable Dian olives, which have various benefits in medicinal use, but Yunnan talents will not be satisfied with only medicinal uses.

During the season when Yunnan olives are beaten for fruit, almost every family uses it as a sugar-pickled preserve. Use a small wooden hammer to crack the Yunnan olive hammer and loosen it, sprinkle thick sugar in the large bamboo plaque, rub the flesh and sugar of the Yunnan olive repeatedly, bask in the sun, and dry into candied fruit in a short time. More skillfully, fermented with olives and then squeezed juice, making "olive drink", the entrance is slightly astringent, the aftertaste is sweet and sweet, and only then should the good name of "emblica".

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Emblica infographic

Walnuts, count as dried fruit? Or fresh fruit? Dali people will tell you that dry and fresh are suitable. The area around Yangpi and Weishan is the most suitable for growing walnuts, and in recent years it has climbed to become a characteristic local product.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

Dali Yang Tao Fresh Walnuts Infographic

At the end of the summer, fresh walnuts are beaten down, patiently remove the turquoise skin, smash open the hard shell, and then carefully peel off the slightly bitter and soft skin on the walnut flesh, and the snow-white walnut kernels are half the sweetness of the fruit, and half have the oil aroma of dried fruit.

Eat it directly, full of crisp sweetness and fragrance, mixed with coriander and tempeh to make a good dish. A month later, around the Mid-Autumn Festival, the moisture in fresh walnuts is gradually reduced, the oil aroma is more obvious, and the stir-fry is the best. The end of the season is slightly older and not wasteful, used to squeeze oil.

In the autumn, there are more fruits, and the bergamot and citron in western Yunnan are several times larger than the Jiangnan varieties, and the slices are eaten directly, and the liver and lungs are cleared and the lungs are also rationalized. Figs, wild bale, and passion fruit are also suitable varieties for raw food and boiled vegetables.

Jun Qianzi, Yu Ganzi, Hu Zizi, Black Grass Zi... Taste of Yunnan fruits

guava

Wild prickly pears have gradually become Internet celebrities in recent years, and the old proverb has the saying that "prickly pears are listed, and too doctors are fine". The best to eat and take advantage of the scenery of the number of persimmons, the mountain persimmon trees are full of crystals, look at that piece of Yan red are teaching people conditioned reflexes like the heart flooded with sweetness.

In addition to the persimmons that can be recognized at a glance, there are also "wild little black persimmons" that are not recognized, which are also delicately dried on the branches, and the locals call them "tower picking". Sun-dried "tower picking" is as large as a cherry and has a stronger aroma than cultivated persimmons. After checking for a long time, I found that the scientific name is "Junqianzi", which is indeed a wild variety of persimmons in the same family. If you go to the countryside again, you will not be able to recognize it, but you are afraid of more.

(Contact Us/ Email: [email protected])

Editor-in-charge: Zhu Zhe

Proofreader: Liu Wei

Read on