Source: Jiaxing Daily - Jiaxing Online
China's gastronomic culture is broad and profound, coupled with the vast territory, the land is vast, and there are eight major cuisines of "Lu, Sichuan, Guangdong, Fujian, Suzhou, Zhejiang, Hunan and Hui". Hecheng has a "diner", its name is, leaf harvest, leisure time keen to chase food. The word "harvest" is not a vivid embodiment of Wufu Minfeng. From now on, the "Nanhu" supplement of Jiangnan Weekend will open a column of "Twelve Cities seeking taste" to follow the harvest of leaves, tour the twelve cities, and taste the food and the stories behind the food.
Chongqing Jianghu cuisine Li Zefeng painting
I heard that people who read a lot of books are talking to their brains when they walk around, and the allusions to wild history will rub up.
And I'm pretty good, I'll talk to my stomach, point to a pile of food in front of me and say, this is delicious, that is delicious, eat fast!
Foodies need to come to Chongqing. I've been here several times.
Recently, after I arrived in Chongqing, there were too many delicious foods that followed my mind back to Jiaxing, such as eating five hot pots, such as eating fish that I ate again and again, such as small noodles that must be ordered every day, and street snacks such as flour, bean flower rice, and ice soup dumplings.
You will understand the feeling that from time to time, thinking about meeting a few more foodies to "kill" for a few days - just like you have met a person, he has made some good impressions on you, you have been together for a while, of course, it is pleasant, after separation, you will not always want to see him again.
The happiness of food has a lot in common with the taste of love, which is also the source of our obsession with food.
Chongqing's jianghu cuisine is the deep contact that can touch the soul in that hot love. Plates of delicacies, or fiery red, or hot, or arrogant, or crisp, are placed in front of you, and your desire to try and take them is immediately aroused.
That day, friends in Chongqing set up an exhibition in Yangjiaping, and I chose dinner time to meet, because she said that in the evening, she was going to accompany a few young "old" artists to eat a jianghu dish. I calculated the time, sat on the Chongqing light rail, and arrived at the meal point without hurrying.
Chongqing people's dinner point, at least 7 p.m.
In addition to the name of the "pots and pans" very jianghu cuisine, this jianghu dish has been well decorated, and the quaint Yupai decoration style, with the kind of several benches and a lacquered table of fly small restaurants, visually is not at the same level at all. When I saw the environment, I was a little disappointed, worried about the fact that the environment was better and the taste was reduced. It's like seeing a girl in the village, who could have cleared the water out of the hibiscus, and her name was still Xiaofang and Yingzi, but she was partially plastic surgery, and you always feel that it is not that thing.
The reason why Chongqing Jianghu cuisine can dominate the jianghu is that soil, coarseness and miscellaneous are secret weapons.
Before serving, I had to chat with the young "old" artists in the mouth of my friends as usual, and for ten minutes, all kinds of gossip and gossip in the Chongqing art world, in their Chongqing dialect, I had already listened to seven seven eight eight. It's really pretty scary.
The speed of serving jianghu cuisine is exquisite, and the word is "fast". The shop fulfilled my quest for speed, and the problem of excessive plastic surgery was immediately swept away after the pressure cooker with a mottled appearance and traces of time came up.
The pressure cooker contained bamboo cage tamales, corn and carrots around it, and coriander segments sprinkled randomly on it, a bit disorganized, I wanted to take a good photo, but I couldn't find a good angle. Okay, that's pretty good too.
Jianghu cuisine, not only the appearance of the map, the taste of the river is not more important, clipped, inlet, steaming powder is not commonly used in the hotel very delicate and silky kind, the entrance is a little coarse, the sense of grain is quite strong, this is not also very jianghu?
Diced cartilage with sharp peppers, which is a very innovative dish in Chongqing Jianghu cuisine, green peppers, lotus dice, a little garlic and red peppers, accompanied by diced cartilage, about a while in boiling oil, there is a fusion of flavors between each other.
This ding, it appears different from other cartilage. In a group of condiments, pulling out cartilage cubes is another pleasure. This dish came up, several artists were not polite, chopsticks "snapping" has collided in cartilage, the number of cartilage diced sharply reduced. It made me panic, and I quickly stretched out my chopsticks to find the cartilage that belonged to me. Find, pinch, into the mouth, "small sample, after all, still belong to me" the pleasure is immediately brought up by the small spicy cartilage.
My heart suddenly remembered the sentence that Li Yu said in "Idle Love and Occasional Mail": "Soft as a bone, Yu Qin Yu is resistant to caressing." ”
Where there are people, there are rivers and lakes, and Chongqing has tens of millions of people, and there are many natural rivers and lakes. However, the name of jianghu cuisine entered the jianghu in the late 1980s and early 1990s.
The Nanping family's "Four Sisters Jianghu Cuisine" does look a little more jianghu, with a long stool and a low table at the door, and there are dishes on the table that have not been collected in time, hidden in a narrow alley, which I climbed more than a dozen floors to get there. It was already one o'clock in the afternoon, after walking more than ten kilometers and climbing many steps, hungry I saw the word "four sisters" and went in, a bowl of spicy plateau beef, a plate of cold mixed ear root leaves, a small crucian carp over the water, I ate two bowls of rice.
Spring water chicken street is a street named after Chongqing's single jianghu cuisine, where the chicken is a must eat, a portion of spring water chicken, by the way spicy chicken also want a portion, eat refreshing.
A colleague of the Chongqing Evening News wrote an article entitled "How Did Chongqing Jianghu Cuisine Come About", "The original Jianghu cuisine mostly appeared at the traffic points of various provincial highways and national highways, providing food for the drivers of large trucks traveling from south to north. ”
At that time, freight drivers were the main word-of-mouth transmitters along the road, they traveled long distances, hard work, the best bite, is simply direct, rough and hot, visually can be quickly impressed, taste to be able to be deeply stimulated, eat to make them refreshed, sweaty head on the journey.
The original well-known jianghu cuisine, including "lai anchovies, postal booth crucian carp, Gele mountain spicy chicken, spicy field snails..." As the driver's wheel spread to more people's ears, the kind of vivid fragrance and rich taste buds stimulated, quickly accepted by more people.
In later evolution, there are more and more well-known jianghu dishes that are not included in the gastronomic classics or recipes, and non-authentic home-cooked dishes that are not made according to the traditional cooking method have also absorbed a lot of fusion production methods, and the tamales and cartilage cubes I ate this time seem to belong to this new jianghu cuisine.
Of course, I don't care how the huge number of great chefs in Chongqing innovate jianghu cuisine, I can't care, I just eat, as long as the taste is good, I can eat it.
Talk to your own belly, find the jianghu of belly love, but also happy.
Source: Reading Jia News Client Author: Ye Fengshou With Photo: Li Zefeng Editor: Zhou Weida Editor:Deng Yulu