We have done a lot of whitening topics, corresponding to different whitening mechanisms, the previous article listed some representative ingredients and products, as well as some whitening related science.
The hottest whitening ingredient in recent years is "niacinamide". "Niacinamide" is more familiar to everyone and controversial ingredients, all aspects of the product it has participated, the most basic cleansing, water cream, to a variety of big-name essences, and even body milk, sunscreen, foundation have its figure, is simply a universal brick in the skin care industry, where need to move ~
The main reason is that the ingredient niacinamide has the following properties:
☉ Versatile all-rounder
In addition to brightening the complexion, it is a good hand to repair the skin barrier, antioxidants, or moisturizing and oil control
☉ The price is close to the people, and the recipe requirements and difficulty are not high
There are many choices of raw materials of different grades and there is no shortage of affordable and affordable raw materials, even if it is imported medicinal nicotinamide, one kilogram will not exceed 200 yuan~ ~
Today, we will talk about this skin care "panacea" ingredient niacinamide.
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, vitamin pp, is also a member of the vitamin family, in the PH value of 6 solution, the best stability. Due to its extremely small molecular weight, it can quickly penetrate deep into our skin through the stratum corneum, blocking melanin delivery and accelerating metabolism. In medicine, it can also be used for skin diseases such as pellagra, stomatitis, liver disease and solar dermatitis.
What are the benefits of niacinamide?
Since the efficacy of niacinamide is comprehensive, what are the specific functions?
☉ Acne anti-inflammatory
As a pharmaceutical ingredient with high safety, it is also a basic vitamin supplement in clinical dermatological treatment, and is widely used for the treatment of photosensitive dermatitis, acne and so on. In recent years, studies have proved that it also has a good effect on inhibiting melanin composure and anti-inflammatory.
☉ Whitening of light spots
In addition to the traditional whitening effect, it is also used to reduce the melanin that has been generated and precipitated, block its transfer to surface cells, accelerate cell metabolism, accelerate melanin keratin shedding, etc. There is no doubt that niacinamide does have a place in whitening.
☉ Fights aging
Niacinamide can greatly reduce or eliminate skin aging phenomena, such as wrinkles, peeling, enlarged pores, etc., reduce the damage of free radicals to the skin, play a role in preventing aging, repairing the skin and reducing facial dullness.
☉ Repair the barrier
For the problem of over-care skin barrier damage, niacinamide has a good repair effect, while maintaining the moisture content of the skin, promoting microcirculation in the dermis, increasing keratin synthesis, increasing the level of free ceramide in the skin, and of course greatly increasing the moisturizing power.
What are the disadvantages of niacinamide?
Since niacinamide has so many benefits, is it the most perfect ingredient in the world in the legend, without any disadvantages? Of course, it is impossible, there is never "perfect" in the world, and then I will talk about a few disadvantages and precautions of niacinamide products:
⚠️ Niacinamide products have a high allergy rate
Niacinamide is widely used and there are many different grades of raw materials, resulting in some low-purity niacinamide raw materials may contain a certain amount of niacin. Niacin impurities have certain irritation to the skin, which may cause the skin blood vessels to dilate and cause the skin to become red, causing some of the more sensitive skin allergies.
Many people call this phenomenon "niacinamide intolerance", in fact, this statement is wrong, because it is completely different from "A alcohol to establish tolerance". "Establish tolerance" means that continuous use can achieve the applicable purpose, and for the ingredient "niacinamide" can be tolerated and not allergenic without long-term continuous use, so a more appropriate statement for this phenomenon should be "niacinamide allergy". If allergic reactions such as redness, itching, or even peeling occur, the product should be discontinued immediately.
⚠️ Niacinamide products should not be used too high in concentration
So for people who are not allergic to nicotinamide, is it better to use the higher the concentration?
The study of the efficacy of niacinamide is generally based on the upper limit of 5%, the general formulation of good A alcohol niacinamide essence, the concentration of niacinamide will not exceed 2%; on the other hand, the concentration of niacinamide has a certain skin irritation, so generally only whitening products on the market will increase to 5% concentration. Therefore, there is no need to pursue "the higher the concentration, the better the effect", and the overall formula will not be too violent but will cause a burden on the skin.
Rumors about niacinamide?
After talking about the advantages and disadvantages of niacinamide, let's talk about a few rumors about the composition of niacinamide that have been circulating in the skin care circle for a long time:
Long-term use of niacinamide products will grow hairy
According to current experiments, niacinamide is a picky guy, it will be dead on the scalp, and it will not have the effect of hair growth and fixation. Not to mention that causing long hair on the face is also a probability problem, so it is really unreliable to use it to grow hair! The "niacinamide" ingredient does not promote hair growth, otherwise there will have been a place in the hair growth product.
Niacinamide cannot be used with acid products (fruit acid, salicylic acid).
The rumor that niacinamide cannot be used with acids is mainly based on the fact that niacinamide will hydrolyze niacin under acidic conditions, while niacin may cause redness and irritation. Do you feel as if it's still quite like that when you read it?
But do not forget that niacinamide reacts in an acidic environment to hydrolyze niacin and also needs a necessary condition - high temperature.
The skin care formula we usually use is already very stable, and the room temperature and human temperature we use every day are not as high as 40 degrees, so you don't have to worry about such a problem.
Niacinamide use needs to be protected from light
Duck is not necessary because niacinamide does not produce photosensitivity and is also possible to use during the day. Protect from light only when used as a drug!
However, these ingredients such as VA and its derivatives, fruit acid, salicylic acid, VC, etc. should be strictly avoided from light, otherwise it will cause irritation or lose its efficacy!
Niacinamide Product Review
After saying so much about the principle of niacinamide, I think we can't wait to see the sharing of niacinamide products, the five products we evaluated in this issue, the voice in the market is relatively high, should belong to the most senior batch of net red products, they are The Ordinary 10% niacinamide + 1% zinc, HFP nicotinamide stock solution, Jia Xue Shen fresh water muscle base serum, Paula Zhenxuan niacinamide liquid, Shile skin PM milk. Without further ado, open beta!
The main functional raw material is 10% niacinamide, and its whitening effect should be very strong from the perspective of the amount of addition and efficacy. Although the proportion of 10% is sufficient, a large proportion of people with this component will not tolerate it, and there will be different degrees of allergies.
PCA zinc mainly plays an oil control role in the product, regulating the balance of oil and fat. Capers seed gum mainly plays a moisturizing role; xanthan gum is used as a thickener; isoteth-20 is used as an emulsifier; the addition of ethoxydiethylene glycol mainly makes the coating feel of the product more lubricating.
This is a product for whitening, oil control, more suitable for dull skin, oily skin that is tolerant to niacinamide, those who have sensitive skin, thin stratum corneum friends are best not to try, even if those who have a certain tolerance to niacinamide friends, the first use should also start from 1-2 drops to try, find a suitable amount for themselves.
The content of niacinamide in this product should be about 2%, but the first user still needs to test the tolerance to see if there is a corresponding allergy or discomfort.
Glycerol caprylate in the formula ingredients has antibacterial, acne treatment, can play a role in retaining oil; light bamboo leaf extract, citrus peel extract also has a bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory effect, acne acne has a certain effect, so the product still has a certain effect on the treatment of acne.
Yeast extract, ceramide 3, white flower lily water has the effect of enhancing cell activity and moisturizing; yeast extract, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate play a moisturizing effect.
HFP niacinamide stock solution its whitening effect should be few, the highlight of the formula design is to add a certain effect on acne raw materials, no fragrance, skin feeling relative to other niacinamide products is still good, moisturizing aspects in general, in general, any skin type of people can try it.
The main functional raw material niacinamide in the product should be 2%-3% from the order and the entire formula.
The main effect of a large number of added extracts is antioxidant, anti-free radicals on the skin to activate skin cells, anti-aging, whitening and light spots; glycerin, trehalose, tuberose extract, water lily extract, sodium hyaluronate, yeast extract, butylene glycol, lactose, panthenol, lecithin, etc. mainly play a moisturizing role, so the moisturizing effect of this product is still good.
From the perspective of the composition of the entire formula, the active ingredient accounts for more than 80%, so many active ingredients must have higher requirements for antiseptics, so friends with higher antiseptic requirements should choose carefully.
From the point of view of composition ratio, the main effect of the product should be to activate skin cells, anti-aging, whitening spots, has the effect of brightening the skin, and its moisturizing effect should be good. Different skin types of people can try it, the price is still more suitable.
The added 4% niacinamide and triple ceramide are very friendly to the skin, the repair function of the skin is obvious, the red blood on the face will slowly fade, the symptoms of sensitive redness are gradually disappeared, and there is a good moisturizing effect.
Combined with MVE's sustained release technology, it can achieve a continuous moisturizing effect, and it can also be used during the day, and the PM and A-skin sensation are written to prevent irritation when the skin is unstable.
Niacinamide has the effect of controlling oil, PM milk has a certain inhibitory effect on acne, the skin feels somewhat thick, the skin feels a little greasy, more suitable for winter use, many people reflect that there is a feeling of irritation when using, and it is recommended that you use it when the skin is relatively stable.
The composition ratio is very comprehensive, 10% ultra-high concentration of niacinamide to comprehensively improve skin quality, acetyl chitosamine gently metabolizes old waste keratin, helping melanin to be excreted. Allantoin, phospholipids and panthenol enhance the moisturizing and soothing effect, plus VC derivatives to enhance whitening properties.
Yellow careful root, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate focus on anti-inflammatory, yellow careful root body also has a certain effect on inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Catechins and carnosine are also added to enhance antioxidant function.
The texture is refreshing, easy to absorb and no stickiness, it is very suitable for foundationing, and it will not cause a burden on subsequent collocations, and the improvement of skin texture can be clearly felt with A alcohol. However, if you want to say what the disadvantages are, that is, the concentration is too high, the sensitive muscles still do not try, it is more suitable for the partial oil tolerance muscles!