How monotonous is the food in Shaanxi on Douyin? With the cooperation of food anchors, ordinary people and merchants, the proportion of hot pot on the local food rankings is larger than that of Sichuan and Chongqing.
■ Local food rankings on a platform (as of September 5)
■ Chengdu Food Ranking on a Certain Platform (as of September 5)
The people who contribute the most to this list are undoubtedly the local food anchors. Click on each anchor's recommended video, the highlight is generally hot pot, the most common barbecue, followed by a variety of noodles. By simply analyzing their videos, you can easily become a tail Internet food anchor.
01
The tail anchors' routines have two directions: personality and recommendation.
Local food anchors have a variety of routines, one of which is very special, referred to as "local big brother style". What makes them special is that when you see the face of the anchor, you will immediately draw a video, and then look up at your colleagues, hoping to make up for the damage to your eyes.
The anchor of this style has no appearance restrictions in the camera, and does not need to be full of spirit. Only with the unique temperament of catching the drunk, that is, swollen face, swollen eyes, hair is slightly messy, loose top, it looks like a big drink, and the human appearance is even in place.
This kind of anchor must purr out loud when eating, let you see the full face of the oil when eating seriously, and if necessary, you can also burp twice in the video, showing an informal personal style. Looking at them, you have to think of the big brothers in front of the barbecue stall, they didn't drink more than two bottles of beer, and then they began to shout about their glorious history, including not limited to the past first love, the first love got married, the first love still chatted with him on the day of marriage, etc. Or true or false past.
"Big Brother Style" is also the most common type of local food anchor on social platforms. In the local area, this kind of persona is extremely credible, and some readers will say some messages to them that they do not know whether to exaggerate or depreciate, "Dun Hou looks, simple words, do not endorse any business."
Another reason for calling them Big Brother is that the story of the "Big Brother Wind" anchor is often much more exciting than the food he recommends. A local anchor who walked in this style had a taunted carnival triggered by two grilled chickens.
The story is probably like this, the anchor went to a grilled chicken shop to evaluate, with his identity as a gourmet V, free to come two grilled chickens. I want to do it, but promise to send people to send the video sent and delete, delete and send.
This matter was seen by another local food counterfeiting anchor, specifically to the grilled chicken shop to go through, to understand the causes and consequences, the boss said in the video grievances, "People say that people are Internet celebrities, masters, want two chickens to promote it." What happened later can be summarized as the anchor repeatedly defended and repeatedly refuted with facts.
Since then, his messages have been related to grilled chicken.
After the grilled chicken incident, there was a local "big brother wind" anchor who had a "hulutou shop incident". Take a look at the causes and consequences. Basically, this is the case: the anchor eats in a gourd shop, and the action of scanning the code payment in the exposed video is just a false shot, in fact, there is no money, for this reason, the anchor has a special explanation video, and the subtext of the video is only one, "I was made." ”
People who know know that they are watching food videos, and those who don't know think that they are involved in major affairs in the country, commercial secret wars, tens of millions of assets, and in the end, it is just a bowl of gourd heads.
In this type of anchor, you can not only see the complex human nature, but also see the diversity of human beings.
When they eat, they will put their heads into the bowl, spit their mouths, chew while talking, deliberately suck the noodles when eating, look up and talk when the oil on the face is larger than the oil in the bowl, often make people lament why the gap between people is so large.
But such eating action does not mean that the anchor has no complexity. Some netizens advised each other in the message area, internet celebrities are disturbed, hundreds of thousands of fans, it is better not to do it. The anchor must respond, but the point of response is different from normal people, the number of fans is more important than anything, "the whole network (I have) millions of fans is not hundreds of thousands." ”
Someone asked in the message area, "Can the script be washed like this?" The anchor replied frankly, "Which one are you reading in Douyin is not a script?" ”
This kind of anchor represented by them, to some extent, is a love-hate series, and there is no half-point relationship with local food, if these people are willing to take the plot short video route, the number of likes and views must be higher than that of filming food.
It's just that the grilled chicken routine is used a lot, and one day it will be repulsed.
02
Under the half of the big brother wind, there are also some food anchors with less impact. Watching their videos, I don't want to go away immediately, but after watching them, I can hardly remember what I watched.
Some people walk in the poverty style, there are two ways to shoot, one is a cheap restaurant that meets their own design, and the other is a noble restaurant that exceeds their own people. They are well versed in the psychology of ordinary people, knowing that ordinary people have two characteristics, coveting small and cheap and envying the life of the rich.
If the anchor goes to a restaurant with an average of more than 300 yuan per capita, he must first show flattery before entering the restaurant. The general practice is that, like the second brother in "Journey to the West", he can't wait to rush into the restaurant with the attitude of "I have this day too". This kind of performance can not only let the audience get a strange sense of superiority, but also make everyone have a strange empathy.
And because of the lack of real food appreciation, after the dishes are on the table, the anchors can only combine the price and give the conclusion of whether the amount of dishes is more or less. Throughout the meal process, there was a continuous and repeated "this spoonful of 88, that spoonful of 66", ending a meal in exclamation.
Another routine of this kind of food anchor is called directly hitting people's hearts.
They usually use headlines like "In Xi'an, eat a meal xx with xx yuan" to attract clicks. Money and food must be in contrast, "xx yuan" is best to be around 100 yuan, "eat a meal xx", it is best to seafood, chicken, duck, beef and mutton and other ingredients, with the price to create an atmosphere of not eating is not a local.
There is even a slogan of "eight dishes, one soup and one pot of wine is not more than a hundred", a price that could not be established ten years ago, and today they tell you that you can achieve it without dreaming.
The last kind of food anchors are found all over the country, and they walk the food rivers and lakes by means of fast cuts and beautiful appearances. The content usually consists of a young girl walking into a post-style restaurant, the picture shrouded in a blue filter, speaking like an emotionless reading machine. The characteristics of this type of food anchor are that the painting style is highly uniform, and the filter color obscures the true color of the food.
I covered my head and couldn't tell which number I was looking at.
You really don't know why these people are still getting invitations from merchants to visit the store. After all, the lines in the video don't seem to need to be prepared in advance, just read the menu introduction. A few anchors who take the beautiful person, because the meal is not fragrant, when it comes to really eating, they turn the lens to the male colleague on the other side, only to give their own lens a sharp face to beautify, other people's shots do not care, resulting in male colleagues in front of the camera to pull the face of the bubble bun, so large that it occupies the entire screen, wretched and sloppy.
In addition to the above three types, there are many niche categories that have not been summarized, for example, a few mediocre boys go to the store with a number, and the strips look like advertisements; and there are recently old names for new anchors, and the same as the property manager, the food recommendation number that does not change the number. But because their personalities are not distinct enough, there is no need to say more here.
Most of the local food anchors, with fans between 300,000 and 500,000, belong to small anchors. If you're lucky, the blockbuster video has millions of likes, but more likes are maintained at about 10,000 or 20,000. These people always reveal a temperament of employees of northwest state-owned enterprises, everything can be ok, look at it or not, I just shoot it. Together, they form the backdrop of the local food anchor community. Once you can surpass these people, you will be able to break away from the local label to a certain extent and have the opportunity to go to the wider world.
03
The lack of vocabulary that local food anchors describe food can sometimes make you want to rewrite the copy for them. If a person watches their videos with their brains, they must feel the pain of being insulted by Chinese. There will also be some new doubts, why open these videos, is it not hard enough to work?
When the beauty anchors on the Little Red Book have begun to use words such as "atmospheric lipstick" and "ice cream" to shoot videos, local food anchors are still using the rankings of ten years ago to evaluate food, "Xi'an must eat list", "Shaanxi people can't do without the top ten foods", "what is the most important thing in Xi'an" and so on.
Look around and you'll be confused about whether you're surfing the internet a decade ago.
If there is no criterion for food, everyone has the right to evaluate what is delicious or not, but the content production of food videos is not careful, there are still basic standards, at least not a shopping mall can be selected as a food resort, but there are local anchors who do this.
In a video with more than 10,000 likes, the anchor took stock of the top ten best places in the local area, including SEG. So under this video, there was a typical scolding in the comment area, and it was recommended that fans take the pass.
Using the leaderboard is already a well-intentioned anchor. Some people will use the phrase "don't talk about the environment, only about the taste" to describe delicious food.
Local anchors also like to emphasize that the food in a store is "made by the boss himself." To a certain extent, this metaphor ignores the delicious fried noodle fried cake stalls at the entrance of the school, each bowl of noodles or cakes in these stalls is made by the boss himself, and you can also enjoy the intimate service of the boss personally serving rice to the table, no worse than the so-called "handmade" of the food anchors.
In addition, there are some common ways to describe food, such as "I found xx in xx". For a while, Douyin often pushed a hot pot restaurant opened in an office building, and when the anchors went there, they would emphasize, "This is actually a hot pot restaurant opened in an office building." But anyone who is willing to think about it will understand that the boss opened the shop in the office building probably only because the rent is cheap. The anchors carefully explained the appearance of the hot pot restaurant in the office building, like the zhihu hot discussion many years ago, "The language reading question asks the original author what is the problem? ”
A local food anchor went to Sanya to shoot food, and it was difficult to send a non-promotional video, and the first sentence at the beginning made people want to close, "I actually found a seafood restaurant in Sanya that has been open for 24 years." At a glance, I thought that I had opened a seafood restaurant for 24 years in a "small Sanya" around Xi'an, after all, "Small Sanya" had only appeared for three or two years.
And if a store does not have a personality boss, not an old store, the environment is normal, the anchors will use it as if they have written a copy with their hearts, but in fact, they have no intention to describe the store, "their family is not for profit purposes", "This is a bakery opened for daughter-in-law" and so on.
When you think about it, these testimonials have little to do with good food, but at first glance they sound very intimidating.
All of the above motivations, we can guess one or two. Food anchors try to use various methods and angles to verify that a store is delicious, whether it is ranking or environment. Some shops and some foods, there is really no need to recommend them with great fanfare, the meaning of their existence is that if you go to the surrounding area, you can eat it by the way. Because there is really nothing to recommend, the final content presented is only pale except for the same.
04
Someone joked in the comments section of the local food anchor, "This shop is really delicious, I drive more than a thousand kilometers to eat every day." This store has been open for five hundred years, selling more than three million a day, queuing for 25 hours a day, and it is said that the Qing soldiers entered the customs for this store at that time. The owner is very nice, not to make money, just to make friends. "Internet netizens have seen more of these routines, and they can also find their own compensation for the anchor."
The routine itself is not good or bad, the routine is the way the story is told, but the story has its own core, and the essential problem of all food exploration shops is nothing more than "delicious or not delicious".
In 2014, Mr. Xia Yan's granddaughter Shen Yun was invited to write a column for Yue Food magazine about a group of cultural celebrities who lived in the "second-rate hall" in the 1980s, and their interest and pursuit of food. In Shen Yun's memory, the taste of Beijing is a food party frequented by Xia Yan and a group of diehards, whether it is the sugar fire in the small breakfast shop, the toad spitting out honey and sugar ears, or the "old Mo" who makes Russian food. This is the Beijing food she will never forget to this day.
In the early forums of the Internet, people tirelessly discussed the ranking of restaurants and restaurants in various places. In the "Brief History of the Fly House" of the interface finance number, it is written that the mainstream media that can be verified on the Internet to do the inventory of the fly house is "Tomorrow. Almost 1 week". Tomorrow. Since its inception, there has been a hot book of "Chengdu Fly House 50/100" every year.
These things happened in 2006, the first few years of Chinese the development of the Internet. To this day, the restaurant discussion that does not work in the environment has become the most commonly used store visit label for non-mainstream food anchors. It's just that at the beginning of everything, people's starting point is "this store is delicious, but the environment is not very good", but now, the food anchors are flooded, through the anchors, we can only understand that the taste of this store is not accurate, but the environment is really not good.
Nowadays, the routines of food bloggers are old, and even compared to other social platforms of the same period, the routines are still backward.
"Curiosity Daily" wrote in an article in 2016 that the traditional food exploration shop and evaluation are no longer popular in the public account, and advertisers are more willing to put in the evaluation that provides background knowledge. Five years later, the interesting evaluation in the public account has disappeared, and the current food number has returned to the store, but it has become a theme store, a niche city food recommendation, a specific neighborhood food research and so on.
Today, when food represents whether a city is livable or attractive, what these old food anchors in Shaanxi are doing is nothing more than the consumption of local food. The key to the problem is whether it is delicious or not, in the video of the above anchor, it is never the most important. In such a long-term situation of being fooled, people gradually dislike the food shop, and even equate the shop as if the shop is not delicious. After a restaurant invited a local food anchor to visit the store, it was ridiculed by netizens to delete the advertisement and apologized to netizens in the private account.
Maybe if we continue like this, we will eventually get tired of the same narrative of the same food, and the more we look at it, the more confused we are, is there no food at all in Shaanxi?
■ Is there anyone in the whole country who is unaware of this kind of problem?
Author | Bells | Chastity author