In TV dramas that reflect the historical themes of the Song Dynasty, we can often see that the official clothes of the Song Dynasty have a white circle on the neck, what is this used for?
China is an ancient civilization with a long history and splendid culture, not only in philosophy, literature and art achievements, but also in clothing is also very distinctive, ingenious. In particular, the imperial clothes of the officials of successive dynasties are exquisitely crafted and generously designed, which is full of praise and amazement.
The imperial dresses of different dynasties have different design styles, with different official ranks, different identities, and different styles and colors of official uniforms.
If the upper court not only can not say the wrong thing, stand in the wrong position, the court dress can not wear the wrong, otherwise it will be troublesome, the light will be punished, the heavy will lose the head.
There is a record of clothing in the Zhou Yi: "The Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun hung down their clothes and ruled the world, and covered all the Qiankun. It can be seen that uniform clothing is as important as unifying thinking.
As soon as officials at all levels put on their official uniforms, they immediately understood their own weights, corrected their positions, and established their loyalty to the emperor.
Regarding what kind of clothing the ancient ministers wore, not to turn over the old paper pile, we ordinary people are difficult to know, fortunately, there are many court dramas and costume dramas now, and the homework they have done is relatively sufficient, and we can understand one or two from film and television dramas.
Because the current choreographer is also very serious in presenting the historical picture, the costume is also very serious, refer to the historical documents of the time, and try to reproduce the situation at that time as realistically as possible. The costumes and props we see in historical film and television dramas are basically in line with historical reality.
In the TV series, the official uniforms of different dynasties are different, and the styles have their own advantages. But all the dynasties, the official clothes of the Song Dynasty are the most personalized, when their officials go to the dynasty, they wear a white collar around their necks, and some people are puzzled after looking at it, what material is this collar, platinum or sterling silver? Why wear such a thing, when using a tie?
In fact, this Dongdong is not made of gold or silver, and although the emperor of the Song Dynasty has money, he is very picky and reluctant to get such expensive jewelry for officials.
This white 'collar'' is called the Fangxin Qu Collar, which is not the first of the Song Dynasty, but has appeared as early as the Sui Dynasty.
However, during the Song Dynasty, this kind of white "collar" began to be popularized, and became the standard of official clothing, which has been promoted in the official clothing of the two Song Dynasties. This tradition continued until the middle of the Ming Dynasty, when it was gradually abolished during the Wanli period.
So why did the Song Dynasty design this white 'collar'' for the official's court dress, and what was in it?
As we all know, China is a country of etiquette, and the Chinese nation is industrious and wise, paying attention to eating, living, and dressing more exquisitely. During the Han Dynasty, Everything in China was ahead of the world, and Hanfu was also very famous.
The Fangxin qu collar is an integral part of The Chinese Hanfu culture, and the official uniform of the imperial court plus such a collar can make the official more exemplary and the mental state appear better.
First of all, it's beautiful.
In the past, officials were dressed exquisitely, with underwear on the inside, their own fashion on the outside, and the outermost work clothes for the upper court, and the three outer layers looked very bloated.
This collar is also the circle square heart curved collar, usually coarse cloth material, very structured, textured, strong, high proportion, worn on the neck can effectively press the collar, to prevent which part of the bulge uneven, affecting the appearance.
The second is symbolic.
Ancient Chinese did not travel around the world and did not know what the shape of the earth was. Our ancestors always thought that the earth was square and the sky was round.
This 'collar' is a circle above symbolizing the sky, and below it is square, symbolizing the earth. The combination of square circles means the unity of heaven and man.
Moreover, the emperor is the Son of Heaven, ordained by heaven, and heaven is also a symbol of imperial power. If the emperor is heaven and high above; then the ministers are humble below, bowing down to the emperor's dispatches.
When ministers put on this thing, it is like putting on shackles, always reminding themselves to put themselves in the right position, must be honest and careful, support the emperor's leadership, obey the emperor's command, and must not neglect their duties, let alone commit trouble.
The third is of cautionary significance.
This ''collar'' is the end of the square heart curved collar is open, and there are two ropes at the tail, which are worn around the neck after wearing the imperial dress, and the ropes at both ends are tied, and the elasticity is just right, and it cannot be moved. As soon as you bend down, the square collar of the rope will strangle your neck, which is very uncomfortable.
This is tantamount to telling officials at all levels that they must be decent and not be reckless. Once derailed, the condom around your neck will get tighter and tighter, leaving you breathless and even killing you. This and the initiative of the rope is not in the hands of the minister but in the hands of the emperor.
Everybody knows. Zhao Kuangyin's Jiangshan was stolen, and taking advantage of the trust of the Later Zhou Emperor, the yellow robe was added to his hand. Therefore, Zhao Kuangyin has always been afraid that the ministers will learn from him and usurp the country and seize power.
Therefore, Zhao Kuangyin attached great importance to the political and ideological education of officials, hoping that the ministers would abide by the way of the monarch and the emperor and desert their thinking.
In addition to the above three articles, officials wearing this kind of "collar" also has a practical value, that is, it can help the emperor recognize officials.
Because not everyone in the Song Dynasty had to wear this thing, it was not enough to wear it.
In the Book of Sui and the Book of Etiquette VII, it is said: "Those who have an inner list above the seven products shall obey it, and those who have no provincial clothes or less than the eight products will be obeyed."' Moreover, the official rank is different, and the "collar" of the official is also slightly different, and the emperor can easily identify the official accordingly, saving a lot of unnecessary trouble.
It is said that this idea of the Song Dynasty also spread to Korea and Japan, because at that time, Korea and Japan were humbly learning from China and bringing the advanced experience of the Song Dynasty to their own countries. Therefore, in some Korean court dramas, it is also seen that their officials also wear such a "collar" around their necks, which shows how far-reaching the influence of Chinese culture is.