The prerequisite for artificial winemaking is the manufacture of pottery, otherwise, it is impossible to brew. In the Yangshao cultural site, there are both clay pots and pottery cups. It can be inferred from this that artificial winemaking began about 6,000 years ago. In Yaoshi, wine has become popular in society. The word "thousand bells" indicates that this is a primary cider, which is close to the water. The "Records of History" records that Yi Di made "zhijiu" to offer Dayu, which was the beginning of wine making wine with grain. Since the Xia, the Shang Zhou, the Qin and Han Dynasties, and even the Tang and Song Dynasties have been fermented with fruit grains steamed and fermented, pressed and then the wine is produced.
The prevalence of alcohol consumption is a prominent feature of the social life of the merchants. From the Shang king, the subordinates, and the nobles at all levels were fond of drinking, and alcoholism and desolation were one of the important reasons for the decay and fall of the Shang Dynasty.
The Zhou Dynasty diet has strong etiquette characteristics, and there are detailed and specific regulations on the eating behavior on various occasions. In terms of drinking, the Zhou people are more moderate, and the "Shang Shu Jiu" is a strict prohibition measure formulated at the beginning of the Zhou Dynasty, and it is also the earliest prohibition order in China. "Wine Curse" is the Zhou Gong's order to Uncle Kang to announce the abstinence from alcohol in the Wei kingdom, the Yin merchants and nobles are fond of drinking, and the princes and ministers are drunk and absurd. The Duke of Zhou was worried that this vice would cause great chaos, so he asked Uncle Kang to announce a ban on alcohol in Weiguo, not to drink alcohol, and to stipulate a decree prohibiting alcohol.
After the middle of the Western Zhou Dynasty, the alcohol ban was relaxed, and the drinking habit gradually became stronger. The scale of liquor production in the Han Dynasty has developed greatly compared with the previous generation, and privately run liquor workshops are widely distributed in cities and townships, and the liquor workshops opened by large merchants are very marketable in metropolises. The Han Dynasty royal family, aristocratic bureaucrats and powerful landlords in the farms also set up wine-making workshops in the palace and in the manor to meet the needs of their own luxurious life. In the government, the state has a special official to manage the production of liquor products of the royal family. The book "Four People's Moon Order", an economic document reflecting the landlord's farm in the Han Dynasty, has records of "Qu Room", "Composition", "Brewing Spring Wine", and "Stuffing Qu Brewing Winter Wine".
Corresponding to the production of wine, the prosperity of the two Han wine styles has inherited the previous generation, and it is even worse. Although the rulers repeatedly banned folk brewing in order to save food in the year of famine, they could not curb the rampant brewing and drinking of alcohol. Whether it is the dignitaries of the palace court or the grass people of the folk shilin, jiuliu, they are extremely enthusiastic about wine. The Han Dynasty's once-implemented policy of "yujiu" could not be completely implemented, and people at that time liked to drink wine with mellow color and taste, and evaluated fine wine according to this standard. Zou Yang, Yang Xiong and Wang Yue's co-titled "Wine Endowment" talks about a large number of wine matters, involving the raw materials and methods of wine, the occasion and function of drinking, the drawbacks of indiscriminate drinking, the etiquette and customs of drinking, the types and characteristics of wine utensils and famous wines.
After the Qin and Han Dynasties, China's winemaking technology continued to progress, and the theory of winemaking technology developed rapidly, resulting in many wine monographs. For example, Cao Cao's "Shangjiu Brewing Fa Song", Jia Sixun's "Qi Min Zhi Shu", anon. Monographs on wine include the "Wine Order" and the "Wine Commandment". At this time, famous wines such as Xinfeng wine and Lanling fine wine began to appear. Rice wine, fruit wine, medicinal wine, wine and other wine varieties have also developed. From the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the wine industry flourished, wine culture was further developed, and wine gradually became the theme of literature and art, resulting in poetry and song titled wine. They use wine to express their understanding of life, their worries about society, and their sighs about history, thus greatly expanding the connotation of wine culture.
The Tang and Song dynasties were the most brilliant period for the development of rice wine brewing technology in China, and after thousands of years of practice, the winemaking process technology has been sublimated and the brewing theory has been formed. During the Tang Dynasty, Xinfeng wine, Jiannan spring wine, lychee wine, Jinling spring wine has a mellow taste and excellent quality. The winemaking monographs included in the "Wine Multiplication" of "Ancient and Modern Book Integration" include Li Xuan's "Ganlu Jing" and "Wine Recipe", Song Zhi's "Wine Record", "Baijiu Fang", "Four Hours Wine Essentials", "Secret Cultivation and Collection Brewing Recipe", Wang Ji's "Wine Classic", "Wine Recipe", Hu Jiehuan's "Drunken Township Xiaoluo", "Baijiu Fang", Liu Xuan's "Wine Filial Piety Classic", "Zhenyuan Drinking Strategy", Hou Tai's "Liquor Store" and so on. In the Tang Dynasty, Li Bai, Du Fu, Bai Juyi, Du Mu and other wine culture celebrities emerged, making Chinese wine culture enter a splendid golden period.
In the Song Dynasty, the category of famous wines increased. In today's Jiangsu Province, there were Jinling bottle wine, Qinhuai spring wine, Suzhou small bottle wine, Mulantang wine, Baiyunquan wine, Baitao wine, Qingxintang wine, Xuzhou Shouquan wine, Changzhou Jindouquan wine, Gaoyou Wujiapi wine, Sizhou crisp wine and so on. Some of these famous wines are named for their exquisite brewing methods, and some are famous for their beautiful water quality. Therefore, the literature of winemaking technology in the Song Dynasty is not only numerous, but also rich in content and has a high theoretical level. Among them, Zhu Qiu's book "Beishan Wine Classic" introduces as many as 13 kinds of wine preparation methods. In the history of ancient winemaking in China, it is a winemaking monograph with the highest academic level, the most authoritative and the most guiding value.
Distilled shochu, which was in its infancy in the Song Dynasty, developed rapidly from the Yuan Dynasty, occupying most of the northern market and becoming the main drinking wine for people. At this time, there were more famous wine categories, and the palace liquors were horse milk wine, Taixi liquor, shijingchun and so on. There are also many famous wines named after the place of origin, song Bai's "Small History of Wine" lists Gaoyou Wujiapi, Chuzhou Jinpanlu, Shanxi Taiyuan wine, Chengdu Jiannan roasted spring, Guanzhong Sangluo wine and so on. Ku Sihui's "Drinking and Eating", Han Yi's "Yi Ya's Will", Zhu Derun's "Rolling Mill Wine Endowment", Zhou Quan's "Wine" and so on are from this era.
At the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the winemaking industry was more developed, and the area around Henan and Huai'an became the main production bases of Daqu in China, and shochu basically replaced yellow wine. On the banks of Lake Ze in Jiangsu Province, there have been brewing cities centered on Suqian, Sihong and Siyang, among which Yanghe Town in Siyang County is the most prosperous. According to relevant historical records, this town of only five or six square kilometers once had giant merchants from nine provinces set up guild halls here and specialized in the liquor industry. At its peak, there were fifteen bad shops. The poem "Spring water under the Baiyang River, many cleaners in the Baiyang River" vividly depicts the scene of the developed wine culture in Yanghe Town. When the Qianlong Emperor went to Jiangnan for the second time, he personally inscribed "Yanghe Daqu wine tastes mellow, and zhenjia wine is also", which makes the reputation of Yanghe Daqu even more prosperous.
The wine literature of the Ming and Qing dynasties mainly includes the "History of Wine" of the Yuan Huaishan people, Xu Ju's "Wine Spectrum" anonymity "Meru Xiaolu", Song Yingxing's "Tiangong Kaiwu", Yuan Hongdao's "Qin Zheng", Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" Volume 25, Xia Shufang's "Upside Down", Zhou Lujing's "Qinglian Yao", Gu Yanwu's "Rizhilu Liquor Prohibition", Tian Yisu's "Drunken Village Law", Huang Zhouxing's "Liquor Department Huikao", Yu Dunpei's "Wine Order Cong", Zhou Lianggong's "Min Xiaoji", Liang Zhang's "Langzhi Cong Reading", "Continued Reading", Three Readings of the Traces of the Waves", the anonymity of the "Tuning Ding Collection", etc.
Li Shizhen said in the "Compendium of Materia Medica": "Shochu is not an ancient law, but has been created since the Yuan Dynasty. With strong wine and lees into the koshiki, steam on the gas, with a vessel to take the drip. Any sour wine can be steamed. In recent times, it is feared that glutinous rice or japonica rice or millet or barley will be steamed, and the koji stuffed urn will be steamed for seven days. It is as clear as water, the taste is extremely strong, and the cover wine dew is also. The core of this passage is that the process of brewing wine has changed from the original steaming, koji fermentation, and pressing to steaming, koji fermentation, and distillation. The so-called breakthrough, its essence is alcohol purification. This mode of production is basically the same as in modern times. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, Xuanhua, which was directly subordinate to Xuanhua, imposed a pot tax on brewers, marking the prosperity of the liquor industry.
From ancient times to the present, wine has been accompanying the rise and fall of history. Kong Shangren wrote in "Peach Blossom Fan": "Watching him rise up the Zhu Lou, watching him entertain guests." There is also wine in the rise, and there is wine in the dead, which can indeed be said to be prosperous and decayed without waste, and has been cherished for hundreds of generations. "Wine is a curse for a long time", in fact, it is not, the quality of people is determined by physiological genes, and it has nothing to do with wine. The good is good, the evil is evil, there is no wine, drinking or not drinking, can not change anything. Wisdom and foolishness are in man, and we do not need to be too high in praise of wine, and we need not be too heavy in our responsibilities. Our attitude toward wine should be to be indulgent, disciplined, and tend to its advantages and avoid its drawbacks.
To be continued...
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