Text/Yangcheng Evening News all-media reporter Sun Qiman Xue Renzheng Ding Ling Correspondent Zhou Xiaoli
Photo/Courtesy of respondent
Two pieces in one cup, stealing half a day's leisure.
About three or two friends, order char siu buns, shrimp dumplings, dry steamed steamed buns, egg tarts "four kings", chicken bowl cup tea set with small stove boiling water, sigh a comfortable morning tea, is a scene that can be seen everywhere in the Cantonese tea house dot Dude.
Diandu De Chengdu New Store (Shangcheng Longhu Store)
From his grandfather Shen Shaoqing founding Dexianglou in the 1930s, to his father Shen Zhenlun becoming the first batch of self-employed people to establish Dongxing Restaurant, Miaoxiangyuan and Jinxiu Hotel after the reform and opening up, and then to shen Zhihui's establishment of Diandude, "food" is the original intention of Shen's three generations to adhere to the unchanged, and "De" runs through the beginning and end of this catering family inheritance.
Dot Tudor's 1st Culinary Skills Competition
Three generations of "old food" to "morality" to rule the store
Cantonese cuisine has been passed down for nearly 80 years
In 1933, Shen Zhihui's grandfather Shen Shaoqing opened the predecessor of "Dian Du De" - Dexiang Lou.
That year, Shen Shaoqing married Jin Lan, the younger daughter of Jia Zhougong, a merchant in longgui town in his hometown, as a returned Chinese. Zhou Gong has many industries in Longgui Town, but what makes Zhou Gong famous is a tea house- Longgui Tea House, which Shen Shaoqing officially changed its name to Dexiang Building after taking over Longgui Tea House.
Shen Zhihui told the Yangcheng Evening News reporter that after the 1970s, his father Shen Zhenlun opened the miaoxiangyuan and jinxiu hotels in Guangzhou, inheriting some of the genes of Dexianglou. Then, from the 1980s to the 1990s, my father opened a number of restaurants such as Haoxian Hotel, Three Bowls Food Street, Southern Style Restaurant, Dongxingshun Restaurant and so on.
In 2013, dongxingshun restaurant was about to be rebuilt, and Shen Zhenlun hoped to build a Cantonese-style restaurant with Xiguan style.
"At that time, my father proposed that we could use the Cantonese mantra - 'Point To Get' as the name of the store, but I think that in the nearly 80 years of inheritance and development of our family, it has always been based on 'virtue', 'virtue' is an indispensable spirit that runs through our product production and enterprise management, and the word 'de' can echo with 'DexiangLou', so I proposed to call it 'Point Dude'." He told reporters that at that time, the father and son had slightly different opinions, so they opened a family meeting to discuss, "When the parents' concept is different, they must be calm and sit down to discuss, so that they can 'have a plan'." ”
"Uncle Shen" and "Hui Shao"
I want to make Cantonese cuisine culture go to the whole country
Tearing down and rebuilding the original restaurant and rebuilding a new brand is not an easy task. So Shen Zhihui thought of his grandfather's Dexiang Building: "When I rebranded, I thought of restoring the previous brand- DexiangLou, and restoring the morning tea culture and dim sum culture." On this basis, we have made innovations to make Cantonese dim sum closer and closer to young people and more and more new. ”
Taking a cage of Cantonese classic dim sum glutinous rice chicken as an example, Shen Zhihui told reporters that on the basis of the traditional glutinous rice chicken, the point is upgraded, in addition to the filling that can "burst the juice" with a bite, there are cherry blossom shrimp fried at low temperature, and the shrimp rice is replaced by Yaozhu, so that the ordinary glutinous rice chicken has a more peculiar taste and richer layers.
In addition to innovating in the dishes, Shen Zhihui also reproduced the appearance of the old Xiguan Tea House in the store decoration - Quelong Chandelier, Manchuria Window, Arcade, Waqi, Green Brick. He told reporters that if you want to pass on the Cantonese cuisine culture, you must tell the brand story, and the cultural elements conveyed by the visual of the storefront are easier for people who are not familiar with Guangzhou to understand the tea house culture of Guangzhou faster, through the iconic catering environment and stylized products, so that diners can be baptized by Cantonese cuisine culture in time and again.
In 2015, Diandude became the conservation unit of the two intangible cultural heritage skills of "Honey Sauce Char Siu Bun" and "Gold Medal Shrimp Dumpling Emperor". In 2019 and 2021, the company's "Jinsha Sea Shrimp Red Rice Sausage" was awarded the landmark food of the Guangzhou Asian Food Festival.
However, while adhering to tradition, Dian dude has also launched unconventional Cantonese tea house dishes such as Japanese mustard salmon tarts and Thai ice durian, so that tradition and innovation can be collided and integrated here.
"But my father and I still agreed at the core when innovating, that is, the dim sum must be made by the dim sum master himself." Shen Zhihui told reporters that they believe that the old brand inherits people and craftsmanship, not just the signboard of the old brand, and the temperature of the person is the soul of our enterprise, "so usually in the company, I am not used to them calling me Shen Zong, everyone calls me my father 'Uncle Shen', call me 'Hui Shao'."
For them, the "Uncle Shen" and "Hui Shao" called out in a vernacular are their hometown sounds, the urban temperament of Guangzhou, and the unique pragmatism of Guangzhou enterprises. At present, Diandude has more than 60 directly operated stores in Guangzhou, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Nanjing, Zhuhai, Foshan, Hangzhou, Chengdu and other cities, each of which continues to interpret the architectural style of Guangfu Xiguan and highlights the authentic and rich Lingnan style.
"In the future, Diandude store will continue to move forward steadily and continue to advance to the southwest market, east China and north China markets." Shen Zhihui said.
Dialogue: Mutual achievement between one generation and two generations
Shen Zhihui
Yangcheng Evening News: What kind of enterprise do you want to make Diandude into? How do you consider the company's development vision?
Shen Zhihui: On the one hand, I want to make Diandude itself a place where everyone can slow down, sit down and enjoy life, accompany family and friends here, and give customers a long time to feel it.
On the other hand, I also want to promote Diandude to the whole country and become the carrier of Cantonese culture dissemination. Because Guangzhou people's demand for dim sum is the most stringent, I also want to build a catering enterprise with high quality and Yangcheng genes. I prefer to bring it to every place in the country with 100% authentic and authentic things, so when I go to every place, I will attach the name of Cantonese cuisine and the name of "Yangcheng", which is also my responsibility, which will not change depending on the location of the restaurant.
Yangcheng Evening News: In the process of succession, how to resolve conflicts with fathers or other family members?
Shen Zhihui: My relationship with my father has always been to appreciate each other and achieve each other. When I was growing up, or when I was taking over, my father and I actually didn't have any differences. I think that as long as everyone has the same goal, working together is not a difference; if the goal is not consistent, it is a difference. My father told us to set lofty ideals and look up at the stars even in the dark, which is why I can drive Cantonese cuisine to other parts of the country with my father.
Yangcheng Evening News: What do you think about the relationship between the first generation and the second generation?
Shen Zhihui: The founding generation is the soul of our enterprise, and their ideas guide the direction of the enterprise. Fathers have given us children, our enterprises a lot of ideas, until now we are in the company blueprint or they are drawing, a lot of management actually has no boundaries, who has a good idea to listen to whoever. I think that in each of us has a different role in each era, and the same is true for the second generation, so we all have different pressures, but we all have the same goals. (For more news, please pay attention to Yangcheng Pie pai.ycwb.com)
Source | Yangcheng Evening News Yangcheng Pie
Editor-in-charge | Li Zhiwen