I have an extremely strong love for roast duck. So, this is actually a roast duck study note of mine. [Witty] I don't know why, but I feel like I'm going to be sprayed Welcome to the comment area to discuss correction ~ hahahahaha [make a grimace] The pictures in this article are all taken by the author, and several more stylish roast ducks in Zhengzhou are ~
"Kyoshi is a beautiful food, and it is better than a duck."
Regarding the origin of roast duck, one of the most famous theories is that Beijing roast duck originated in the Ming Dynasty, with a history of more than 300 years, and its origin is related to Nanjing. [Gaze]
Chef Fenjing roast duck
There is such a saying because of Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty. Legend has it that Zhu Yuanzhang loved to eat roast duck, so much so that he had to eat one or that every day, and the imperial chefs developed a variety of cooking methods in order to please the emperor.
Beijing roast duck old shop "Cheap Fang", it is said that the history of more than 600 years, was moved from Nanjing during the Ming Dynasty Yongle years with Ming Chengzu Zhu Di, the so-called "South Duck North Crossing". On the market cover of the cheap shop, there was a big character "Jinling roast duck" in the bright and dangling. It is said that the three big characters of "Cheap Fang" today were written by Yang Jisheng, who was then a soldier and a foreign lang during the Jiajing period.
In the Qing Dynasty's "Ji Sheng in the Age of Emperor Jing" and "Miscellaneous Records of Dumen", it is recorded that the concubines of the Emperor of the Qing Palace all loved the "South Furnace Duck", so the folk followed suit, and the roast duck flourished in Beijing.
Roast duck - Azhuang authentic Yu cuisine
So ~ we can't help but ask: what about Nanjing before ~? [Make a grimace]
The existing data of the China Food Museum shows:
In the 1850s, Quanjude sent people to Kaifeng to find old artists to learn roast duck techniques.
In 1980, the inaugural issue of Chinese Cuisine clearly stated that "Beijing roast duck originated from Beijing".
Fenjing, Bizhou, and Tokyo were all the old names of today's Kaifeng in Henan. In history, Kaifeng City was buried by the Yellow River five times, and now there are 6 cities under the prosperity of the great river.
"The warm wind makes tourists drunk, and hangzhou is called a state of Bizhou."
Roast duck - Meizhou Dongpo (photo from Beijing)
During the Southern Song Dynasty, there was a man named Meng Yuanlao, who wrote a "Tokyo Dream Record", which traced the secular customs of Kaifeng Province, hotel businesses, and vigorous people's livelihood. The reason why it is "recounted" is because this book was roughly written during the Jing Kang period, when the rulers of the Southern Song Dynasty had moved from Kaifeng south to Hangzhou, yes, this Jing Kang was the Jing Kang who was "Jing Kang shame, Still Snow".
The Tokyo Dream Record records a roast duck, or roast duck— yes, "Tokyo," or Kaifeng.
Zhang Hailin, president of the Henan Catering and Hotel Industry Association, has cited this as an example on different occasions to speak out for Yu cuisine: "The history of Peking roast duck can be traced back to the Northern Song Dynasty in the 10th century AD, and there is "burnt duck" in the historical material "Tokyo Dream Hualu", which is exactly the roast duck in Beijing. After the Northern Song Dynasty moved the capital to Lin'an (Hangzhou), it almost completely copied the lifestyle and catering industry of Beijing, and roast duck was naturally introduced to Lin'an. ”
Roast duck - A five Yellow River big carp
In the Southern Song Dynasty scholar Hongmai's "Yi Jianzhi", it is recorded that a roast duck master named "Wang Li", it is said that he was the first roast duck chef who "left a name in Qingshi".
Therefore, we boldly deduce [struggle]: the origin and spread of roast duck is related to the changes in the political and economic center of Chinese history, roughly from Kaifeng during the Northern Song Dynasty, to Nanjing and Hangzhou during the Southern Song Dynasty, and to Beijing during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
There is also a saying that "roast duck originated in Jiankang (present-day Nanjing) during the Southern and Northern Dynasties of China", which comes from the book "Food Zhenlu" - but there are more theories that the "Food Zhenlu" has long been scattered, and the extant "Food Zhenlu" is included in the "Saying Zhenlu", the full text is only more than 200 words, which is also mixed with some later things - so I am skeptical of this statement.
Which of all these claims do you stand on? [frown]
Roast duck - Chef Fenjing roast duck
The technique of roast duck has two major genres: hanging oven and stewing oven.
Roasting duck in a oven led by Cheap Fang, "Use a fire stove, no matter what fuel is used, roast the fireplace until it is gray and white, and then put out the fire and put the duck into the oven." Roast duck with dark fire, duck chamber into the special old soup, the formation of the outside roasting inside the boiling trend, during the period do not open the stove door, do not turn over the duck body, the advantage of this is that the fire is not strong, the duck is heated evenly, the fuel consumption is small, the duck made of the overall jujube red, the outer skin oil is bright and crispy, fat but not greasy, the duck breast is like a steamed bun, noisy, unique flavor. ”
When the Qing Dynasty was eating roast duck, Quanjude opened. Quanjude's hanging oven roast duck is said to have hired a master from the Qing Palace, "with a refractory brick stove, the furnace is tall, the hearth is deep and wide, and one furnace can roast more than a dozen ducks." Disturb the stove door, use date wood, pear wood, fruit wood, etc. as fuel, make a fire, bake the stove, and then put in the duck, you can roast while the duck. Because of the fierce fire, the fat under the skin of the roasted duck is consumed a lot, and the roasted duck is particularly crispy and tender. ”
Roast duck insulation plate - Azhuang authentic Yu dish
It is said that at the end of the Qing Dynasty, because eating roast duck was popular, it also became a good gift. However, the roast duck is not good when it is cold, and the clever Quanjude people issued a "duck ticket" - this thing, more or less with the current hairy crab coupon is a usage, which is the feng shui rotation ah ~ ~
Roast duck - little big Dong
In 2006, the "Roast Duck Technique of Cheap Fang Oven" and "Quanjude Hanging Oven Roast Duck Technique" were jointly included in the first batch of intangible cultural heritage in Beijing, and later included in the list of national intangible cultural heritage.
Far away, whether it is Peking duck or Beijing roast duck. I don't talk about the technique of hanging the stove and stewing the stove, but I talk about delicious food and how to eat it.
Interestingly, regardless of the oven or the hanging oven, people's standards for the deliciousness of a roast duck have almost never changed: has the orange crust been roasted to be crispy and crispy? Is the duck tender and not dry? Big enough?
Putting aside the above, in recent years, the roast duck market in Zhengzhou has mostly played the sign of "Beijing roast duck", and after the painstaking research of various masters, although the eating method of dipping sweet noodle sauce roll lotus leaf cake is "unchangeable", there is no small surprise:
For example, how to eat duck skin:
Sliced ducks are also exquisite, the traditional is even belt meat 108 knives, strips called "willow leaves", flakes called "fish scales". However, I have asked the current duck master, usually a duck slice of 90 pieces is enough. Especially in recent years, eating duck skin is also a hobby of some diners, and the separation of skin and meat has increased.
Roast duck - Yufeng Fenjing roast duck
Before starting, ask the master to cut the front chest piece first, dip the duck skin in white sugar, and eat it in front of people.
For the essence of this piece of duck skin, Azhuang authentic Yu dish ordered applesauce under the duck skin, and rice cake, which tasted sweet, sour, crisp, and the rich grease added flavor;
Duck skin cake - into a chef's roast duck
Chef Cheng's roast duck is decorated with blueberry sauce under the skin of the duck, accompanied by a sponge cake, which is crispy and soft and has a sour and fresh aftertaste.
For example, side dishes:
The dipping sauce and side dishes of roast duck are the most classic with sweet noodle sauce, and the rest can be seen in addition to sweet noodle sauce + green onion white silk.
Chef Cheng, who uses "roast duck" as his signature dish, has 6 kinds of dipping side dishes: xylitol (instead of white sugar, dipped in duck skin), sweet noodle sauce, sour plum sauce, shredded green onion, cucumber shredded, and wattle mustard.
Xylitol replaces white sugar dipped in duck skin for health; duck meat dipped in sour plum sauce has the feeling of Cantonese roast goose and crispy pigeon.
Yufeng Peking roast duck
The 6 side dishes are not the most in the roast duck, the most is Azhuang: sweet noodle sauce, green onion white silk, wattle mustard, cucumber strips, cantaloupe strips, hawthorn cake strips, garlic paste, yellow curry sauce, pickle crushed, there are as many as 9.
For example, pie:
The lotus leaf cake is dipped in sweet noodle sauce, and the roast duck after being sliced into thin slices is eaten with the meat with a belt of meat, and the shredded shallots are the most classic.
Pay attention to the point of roast duck shop, lotus leaf cake is freshly baked, medium gluten noodles, three points of hot noodles, seven points of cold water, the cake can see the yellow dots on the top of the cake.
Chef roast duck roll three-piece set: Roman lettuce, sesame hollow cake, dragon fruit cake
Yufeng Fenjing roast duck with blast oven hollow sesame small baked cake, crispy.
Chef Cheng's Roast Duck uses two kinds of cakes: lotus leaf cake + hollow sesame small baked cake. Lotus leaf cake with red heart dragon juice and noodles, steamed cake slightly red, eat even in addition to the noodles there is a little fruity, the two paired with staple food, fully take care of the needs of more people.
And last time, Master Cheng also brought out a large Roman lettuce, and the waiter said that he could eat it with lettuce leaves rolled up
For example, the roast duck itself:
The real innovation of the roast duck itself, Master Cheng counted the first "one against three" I have ever seen: the "one" of the traditional jujube classic roast duck, and the "three" of abalone roast duck, red date roast duck and pineapple roast duck.
The preparation method is roughly duck skin juice sizing, duck chamber stuffed with abalone, red dates, pineapples, and then poured into the boiled juice juice, roasted with jujube wood for 90 minutes, drained of grease, sliced duck that is fruity, taste crisp, duck meat fragrant.
Then there is the insulation of the container:
Roast duck is a hot dish, but after the slices are served, it will soon become cold, not hot, and the flavor is completely lost. In the techniques for keeping the roast duck warm, most of them use a special roast duck plate, which is designed with a groove below, and a small candle is lit to heat the heat;
The most ingenious is Chef Cheng, who put a warm baby under the roast duck plate, safe and efficient. This kind of heating, has been the temperature is just right, the heat dissipation is even, eat to the end of the table, the duck skin is still so crisp, the meat is still so straight and juiced.
And the handling of the duck rack:
There are many soups, and there are also some that are directly made into pretzels or cumin duck racks.
Let's talk about the comment area, what is your understanding of The Roast Duck? [Witty]
Text/Figure Migu River