七旬婆婆巧手将土布织出新时尚
Homespun Skills with Modern Elements
倪珍云调试纺车 Ni Zhenyun adjusts the spinning wheel.(Photographed by JIMU News Reporter Zhao Delong)
土布制作的手袋 Homespun handbag
楚天都市报极目新闻记者 赵德龙
实习生 陈潇彤 范甜甜
翻译：韩晓龙 肖雪嵘 卫拉（湖北大学）
JIMU News Reporter: Zhao Delong
Interns: Chen Xiaotong, Fan Tiantian
Translators: Han Xiaolong, Xiao Xuerong, Lisa M. K (Hubei University)
棉花变成棉线，棉线变成棉布，总共需近20道工序。每道工序都是纯手工制作，一张土布织出来，要花费两个月时间。
It takes nearly 20 steps to turn cotton to cloth and two months to weave a piece of homespun.
在这个高科技时代，湖北鄂州市华容区省级非遗传承人倪珍云依然坚持着老传统，从母亲手中接过祖辈传下来的织机，织了60年土布。
In the high-tech era, adhering to the spirit of inheritance, Ni Zhenyun, an inheritor of intangible cultural heritage at provincial level in Huarong district, Ezhou, Hubei province, has woven homespun for 60 years on the loom handed down by her ancestors.
她希望有更多人喜欢她织的土布，也希望能将那辆百年织机传下去。
She hopes that her homespun will grow inpopularityand that the century-old loom can be passed onto future generations.
织一块土布有近20道工序
A nearly-20-step procedure of homespun weaving
倪珍云8岁学习纺线，10岁时随母亲学织布和刺绣，18岁已掌握纺纱、染色、配色、纺织等全套织布技艺。
Ni Zhenyun learned to spin at the age of 8, two years later she learned weaving and embroidery fromher mother, and by the time she was 18, she had mastered weaving skills such as spinning, dyeing, color matching, and weaving.
倪珍云的家，也是她的工作室，门口挂着“珍云华容土布店”的牌子。
Her home is also her studio which is adorned with the sign of“Zhenyun Huarong Hand Loomed Cloth Store”hanging above the door.
倪珍云织的是华容土布，又叫老粗布，是当地村民世代传承的一种手工织布工艺，2013年入选第四批湖北省非遗代表性项目。今年2月，国家乡村振兴局在官方网站公示“第一批全国‘一县一品’特色文化艺术典型案例名单”，鄂州华容土布入选工艺美术类典型案例。
Huarong Hand Loomed Cloth weaved by Ni Zhenyun is also known as coarse cloth. Thishand-woven craft preserved for generationsby the local villagers was listed in the fourth batch of representative items of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Hubeiprovincein 2013. According to the National Administration for Rural Revitalization, in Febraury 2023, Huarong Hand Loomed Cloth in Ezhou was included in the first batch ofnational representative crafts of culture and art inthe project themed “One representative brand in each county”.
倪珍云说，手工老粗布的制造工艺很复杂，所需工具也有很多，包括织布机、倒线机、纺线车、收布架、收布拖板、耙子、梭子等近20种工具。一张老粗布需两斤半棉花，仅辗花一道工序就要5天的时间。从头至尾有近20道工序，至少需要两个月时间才能织出一张布。
Ni Zhenyun said that the process of weaving coarse cloth is complicated, requiring nearly 20 kinds of professional tools. In addition, a piece of coarse cloth is made of 1.25 kilograms of cotton, and it takes five days for just one step in weaving coarse cloth. Only after two months and 20 different processes can a piece of cloth be completed.
以前织布就是为补贴家用
Weaving for Household Income
倪珍云说，她一个农民，没读多少书，从没想到会受到这么多关注。有时去北京、武汉等地交流，站在教授们中间，被人称“老师”，会感到心虚。
Ni Zhenyun expressed her surprise at receiving significant attention, considering her background as a farmer with limited education. Occasionally when she travels to cities like Beijing and Wuhan for exchanges, standing among professors and being addressed as “teacher”,she feels a sense of unease.
不过坐到织布机前，她很快有了自信，随着双脚在踏板上交叉起浮，双手轮换丢接梭子，配合推拉竹筘，一块粗布就渐渐浮现。
However, as soon as she sits in front of the loom, she quickly gains confidence. With her feet swiftly crossing over the pedals and her hands skillfully tossing and catching the shuttle, coordinating with the push and pull of the bamboo shuttle, a piece of coarse cloth gradually takes shape.
倪珍云回忆，从儿时起，棉花收获后，晚上在煤油灯下，她跟母亲坐在纺车前，一手摇纺车，一手捏棉条。经过几十个夜晚的重复，棉花会变成棉线，棉线又变成棉布，再将棉布送到裁缝店，做成全家人的新衣，迎接春节到来。
Ni Zhenyun recalls that since her childhood, after the cotton harvest, she would sit with her mother in front of the spinning wheel in the evening.With one hand operating the spinning wheel and the other pinching the cotton fibers, they would diligently work night after night. Through their repetitive efforts, the cotton would gradually transform into yarn, ready to be woven into cotton fabric. Eventually, the fabric would find its way to the tailors shop, where it would be made into new clothes for the entire family, in preparation for the arrival of the Spring Festival.
几十年来，无论多忙，倪珍云始终都没放下织布。“最初织布换米，后来织布做床单，我想的简单，就是补贴家里。”倪珍云说。
Ni Zhenyun remained dedicated to weaving for several decades regardless of how busy shewas. “At first, I wove cloth in exchange for rice, and later I wove cloth to make bedsheets. My intentions were straightforward: simply to supplement my familys income.”said Ni Zhenyun.
说话间，一根根经纬线已慢慢变成印有花纹的土布。这时需要新材料，年过七旬的倪珍云下了织机，一路小跑到储物柜前，大步攀上近一米高的板凳，取材后再一跃而下，往返于织机和储物柜间，一路“小跑”。
As she spoke, the warp and weft threads gradually transformed into patterned coarse cloth. In need of new materials, the septuagenarian descended from the loom and swiftly headed towards the storage cabinet. With agility, she climbed onto a stool nearly one meter high, retrieved the necessary materials and leaped down.
“我身体很好，前几天还一手骑着自行车，一手拿着一块木板，碰到个年轻人要给我拍抖音。”倪珍云笑着说，附近的熟人都叫她“老顽童”。
“I am in good health. Just a few days ago, I was riding a bicycle with one hand while holding a wooden boardwiththe other. A young man wanted to record a video of me to post on Douyin.” Ni Zhenyun said with a smile. People in the neighborhood affectionately call her“the playfulelder”.
土布融入现代元素成潮牌
Fashionable brand that combines Homespun Skills with Modern Elements
倪珍云操作的织机，是她姥姥传下来的，迄今已逾百年。据她说，织布技艺都是老人们口传心授。
The spinning wheel Ni Zhenyun uses washanded down by her grandmother and is overone hundred yearsold. According to Ni, homespun weaving skills were passed down from the aged by word of mouth.
华容区文化馆馆长姜剑松介绍，如今传统土布纺织技艺只有少数农村妇女还会，这些人年纪较大，没有接班人，传统手艺面临着消失的危险。
“Traditional homespun weaving skills are now mastered only by a few women in rural areas. As these womenare growing older, these traditional crafts, without inheritors to carry them on, are in danger of extinction”, said Jiang Jiansong, the director of Huarong District Cultural Museum.
如今，倪珍云收了7名徒弟。“只要有人愿意学，我就愿意教。”倪珍云说，她希望有兴趣的年轻人来学，将传统手艺传承下去。
Up to now, Ni has accepted seven apprentices. “As long as someone is willing to learn, I will devote myself to teaching”, Ni said, “and I hope that young people interested in homespun weaving can come to learn and pass on this traditional craft”.
在华容区文化馆帮助下，倪珍云团队与武汉纺织大学非遗研究中心长期合作，将华容土布交由该校设计，缝制家纺用品、旗袍、时装、女包、围巾等，让非遗产品与现代审美元素结合。
With the help of Huarong District Cultural Museum, Ni Zhenyun and her team have carried out long-term cooperation with the Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Center of Wuhan Textile University, in which they sewshome textile, Cheongsam, trending clothing, womens bags and scarves with patterns designed by members of the Center, achieving the perfect combination of intangible cultural products with modern aesthetic elements.
湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心主任、武汉纺织大学教授叶洪光认为，华容土布作为省级非物质文化遗产特色鲜明，倪珍云将传统土布和现代时尚结合，进入市场融入现代生活，实现了华容土布的活态传承和可持续发展。
“Huarong homespun weaving skills, as an intangible cultural heritage at the provincial level, have their own distinct characteristics. Ni Zhenyun has realized the great combination of their characteristics with modern elements, and has integrated these crafts into the mainstream market and modern life, achieving theirdynamic inheritance and sustainable development”, said Ye Hongguang, director of Hubei Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Center and professor of Wuhan Textile University.
（来源：极目新闻）
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