Penguin Eating and Drinking Guide | "Haipai Snacks" Part 1
The only local food in the variety of places is Shanghai, which calls itself "Haipai".
Haipai Haipai, Shanghai faction, more take the meaning of Hai Na Bai Chuan.
To eat the essence of a city, it is often in the street snacks. As a typical immigrant city, the source of Shanghai snacks is the local port, but also the local, in the gradual flow and constantly integrated into the foreign port and even Western character, in the years of washing gradually formed a unique "Haipai snack" style.
The people of Shanghai love cream pastry deeply, and they are equally obsessed with the tender and juicy raw frying; the left hand and right hand, while the local, while the foreign atmosphere; foreign visitors, often wonder, what is the real taste of Shanghai?
To answer this question, we decided to dive deeper into Haipai snacks. Today, I will briefly introduce some of the most famous snacks in Shanghai. And Shanghai's famous four big Kong, cake system, noodle pie and sugar mouth snacks, and to be slowly elaborated in the future.
Shanghai is a typical immigrant city, and the soup dumplings and mooncake pastries we mentioned later have originated in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, as far as Europe and Asia, and are shaping the territory of eating here. And only raw fry can be traced back to Shanghai, is the most local snack, so, put in the first said.
As the most popular small thing in Shanghai, raw fried has derived a number of genres in the long development and has been studied countless times by delicious people.
As a result, the raw fried party quarreled at least a few times:
Semi-fermented | not fermented
As a normal bun, the skin is fermented, so it has the soft taste we eat. And raw fried buns are an outlier.
The old-school raw fried dough is a semi-fermented in between – neither as tight nor loose as the fully fermented bread – the skin is chewy and soft. However, in order to pursue thin skin and large filling, the new school now also has a non-fermented dough skin.
Clear water | muddy water
As for the inner filling, it is divided into two factions: water raw frying and muddy water raw frying, which is actually the difference between the amount of soup juice.
There is not much juice in the raw water, all come from the meat filling itself, and the good meat can produce fragrant gravy. The latter added soup jelly, if you don't pay attention to bite down, either the person on the other side is splashed in the face, or you make your chest east and west.
The pleats face up| the pleats face down
Even the pleats are exquisitely oriented upwards and downwards, and the natural way to look good is to turn the side with the pleats upwards, and the real way is to fry this side in the pan, because this side is relatively thick, in order to fry out a fragrant and crispy scorched bottom - raw frying says the soul of the same!
If there is also a chain of contempt for eating raw fried, then most of the people at the top will have to eat half-fermented pleats facing down.
As for whether you like to eat fresh meat, shrimp, three fresh or crab powder fillings, don't argue. Isn't the right way to open it all?
Old-school, semi-fermented noodles, it is said that exquisite shops, such as Daju Chun, adjust the recipe according to the humidity and temperature of the day like a bakery.
Another example is Dong Tai Xiang, which adopts the genre of pleats facing downwards, and the bottom is crispy and crispy. When it is almost ripe, the fried black sesame seeds are willfully sprinkled with green onions, whether it is the most ancient raw frying in the publicity, delicious enough. However, the speed of the pot here is not too fast, you must have patience to wait for the just out of the pot, round and full, otherwise the time will go down.
Shanghai refers to the stuffing without filling as steamed buns, just like the full name of raw fried steamed buns is "raw fried steamed buns", and XiaoLong was also called "XiaoLong Steamed Buns" many years ago.
The origin of Xiaolong is debated innumerable, Changzhou, Wuxi, Suzhou, and Shanghai all say that they are Xiaolong's mother, but Shanghai Xiaolong's mother is Nanxiang's right. Go to the City God Temple, always see the Nanxiang small cage door lined up a long queue, waiting for the straw into the bun to drink soup, many drink on the spit, but people who understand the scriptures will still tell you, don't wait on the first floor, go directly upstairs, there are good things upstairs.
There are many exquisite small cages, and there are also regulations on how many folds are folded, which are also divided into two factions: fermented and non-fermented - however, the small cages after fermentation look too small and exquisite, and like small buns, they are now less common. The thin-skinned cages that do not ferment are still dominant.
The most complicated is the filling. Not to mention the vegetarian and eight-meat fancy filling, even the most common local crab cage can be divided into crab powder, crab yellow and crab paste. It is worth mentioning that the soup bun that looks very similar to Xiaolong is generally believed to have originated in Suzhou. Many people think that the small cage and the soup bun are the same family, and the soup bun is the small cage filled with soup, but in fact, it is not, the two are different in the dough, filling and shape.
The small cage pays attention to "sitting like a bell, clipping like a lantern", lying upright in the cage, looking really well-behaved. Maybe you are often popularized by an old foodie about the small cage: carrying a pleat, gently dipping it into ginger vinegar, taking a small bite, calmly sucking off the soup, and then eating the skin and meat filling.
The most Shanghainese ravioli is the small wonton. The most delicate to make their own: egg skin shredded, add seaweed and dried shrimp, boiling water to make soup, the aroma is all based on the lard at the bottom of the bowl, the thin skin is faintly permeated with small meat filling, and the small wontons are scattered, like clouds floating in the bowl one by one.
Shanghainese people feel a bit similar to the flowing clothes, so it has a nice name, called crepe wontons.
Most of the small wontons in the shop do not have this homely temperament, often crab meat, shrimp, fresh meat, this golden oil filling, mainly under the soup kung fu, generally there are bone soup, chicken soup, pay attention to yellow fish soup.
Compared to small ravioli, it is the big wonton that really brings satisfaction and fullness. Small wontons pursue the flowing and gentle skin, large wontons emphasize the solid compactness of the filling, not as intricate as small wontons, and large wontons with cabbage meat are common. In addition to the hot food, the large wontons are cold and mixed with chili oil and peanut butter, and together with the cold noodles, they drive the Shanghai summer heat 3.
Shanghai's mooncakes mainly have two camps, Su's and Cantonese's, the latter of which has an annual queue of apricot blossom buildings, but the most local characteristics are also several Su's mooncakes wrapped with fresh meat. However, Suzhou's mooncakes have also changed after the reform of the Shanghai school, the former prefers sweetness, while the latter is more salty and fresh.
Compared with the meat filling, which is not difficult to make mistakes as long as it is fat and lean and seasoned, the puff pastry with Cantonese mooncake as the main distinction is the more testing part of the skill. Similar to the baked cake, the dough of the fresh meat mooncake is also composed of puff pastry and dough, and the puff pastry mainly plays a role in layering, and the secret of deliciousness is to put lard in the willingness.
Baking mooncakes need to be turned over from time to time to heat evenly to prevent the paste from falling out. Through the glass window, I saw the master holding two bamboo sticks swimming quickly between a pot of mooncakes, turning over a round in the blink of an eye, taking a break and coming to the next wave, turning over three or four times a pot is about to come out, the master technology blessing, the moon cake This little fat man looks quite flexible.
Golden puff pastry, meat filling with sesame oil, gravy and puff pastry crumbs falling down while eating, standing on the side of the road to shoot is reasonable, come on, eat while it is hot.
Influenced by Ningbo, Shanghai also eats more soup dumplings, and like fresh meat mooncakes, it is not only seasonal, but also all year round. As a pie-stuffed dumpling, understanding the soup dumplings still requires dismantling the ingredients:
Grind the skin with water to make the skin - that is, we often call tangyuan powder, first soak the rice in cold water for more than ten hours, until the hand can easily crush the rice, and then grind the water and rice together into a slurry, put it into a cloth bag and drain the water. A good water mill can be used with three different kinds of glutinous rice.
Black puff pastry is the standard filling of Ningbo soup dumplings, black sesame is the protagonist, lard is the soul, although the ingredients are not much, it is laborless to make: fried black sesame seeds are ground into a fine sesame powder, fully mixed with cotton sugar, and then mixed with white pork plate oil, after boiling, the lard will turn into a soup and melt into the sesame filling, and the aroma is fragrant.
The tangyuan skin is shiny and crystalline, the skin is thin and filling, and the lard aroma full of black puff pastry is bitten, with a sweet sense of sand.
After the soup dumplings to Shanghai, the fresh meat that is popular with the people of Shanghai is also included in the conventional filling, of course, the moon cake is wrapped in meat, and the tangyuan plus meat is not something that everyone can consume, don't rush to stand in line to tear x, sesame fresh meat is good to take what you love.
Most of the cake dumplings in Shanghai come from Suzhou, although the cake and the group always appear in pairs, but the difference between the two is still very large, suzhou has always had the saying of "square for cake, round for the group".
Cakes are more resilient to eat, usually large pieces are steamed and then divided into small pieces, there is no filling, and the main dessert is. According to the raw materials, it is divided into glutinous rice cake - Dingsheng cake, strip cake, mint cake, red bean cake, etc., this kind of cake texture is dense, small; wheat cake - mille-feuille cake, hair cake, mara cake, etc., because the special structure of wheat flour can be fermented, so the volume of this kind of cake is more expanded.
The texture of the dumplings is prominently sticky, generally based on japonica rice and glutinous rice according to the proportion of the dough, are a single row or steamed or boiled, each has a different filling, sweet and salty. The most famous is the popular Qingtuan a while ago, leaving aside the season, the golden dumplings and double brewed dumplings are the more common dumplings in Shanghai, and the fried meat dumplings of Suzhou Huang Tianyuan are also very famous.
The golden dough is filled with soybeans, the bean flavor is fresh and long, and the red bean sand lard is two completely different styles.
Double-brewed dumplings are probably one of the most complex dumplings. The traditional method is to first make a bean paste dumpling, then wrap a layer of black puff pastry, and finally close the mouth, so that you can get the "group in the group, the core in the core" layers of texture. The glutinous dumplings are heavy and easy to stick, generally the outside also needs to be wrapped in a layer of powder, gold dough wrapped in soybean powder, double brewed dough with coconut shreds, eating mouth is also very refreshing.
Shanghainese are keen to discuss whether the raw fried pleats are facing up and down, and they also sing about the chestnut puff pastry whipped cream.
In the soul of Haipai West Point, there must be two sisters of cream and butter. They always appear in different postures in various desserts, are well-deserved protagonists, and become the absolute core of judging whether they are delicious or not: whether they are whipped cream cubes on cakes, or simple and simple whipped cream, butter whisky dried on toast, and puff pastry that combines butter flour into one.
| Butterfly crisp |
Butterfly puff pastry, one of the first desserts brought to Shanghai by the French, is made in the same way that butter and dough need to be layered on top of each other, and the ratio of the two needs to be one-to-one to release enough aroma. A butterfly puff pastry is folded four times, in 256 layers, and finally waits for fermentation to be baked.
But there is a significant difference between the two, the butterfly puff pastry uses low gluten flour, the degree of fermentation is low, so the texture is as crunchy as a biscuit, while the bread belongs to the bread, using high gluten flour, so the volume is expanded. Shanghainese people love sweetness, and the sugar on the Haipai butterfly crisp is very arrogant.
| sorbet |
Shanghai snack review madman Ms. Zhang Ailing once said that Lao Dachang's kind of puff pastry hemisphere: "It is mixed with some cheese, slightly salty, and eaten with bread that is not very sweet, delicate and delicious."
The balls are hard to find now, but another kind of sorbet she's praised by name has survived. Now there are two main kinds of ice food in Shanghai, one is whipped cream, and the other is sorbet with different flavors.
Whipped cream is whipped cream after adding spices and sugar, usually used as cake mounting, and it is placed in the refrigerator alone, the low temperature will reduce the thickness of the cream, is a simple and soft ice cream.
Sorbet is based on whipped cream, adding eggs, milk, wheat flour, walnut crushed and more sugar, the texture is more solid, the milk flavor is strong, there are mango, vanilla and other flavors to choose from.
| Chestnut cup |
Kaysling is the initiator of the chestnut cake. It is said that in the past, low gluten flour was a rarity, and the raw materials of the cake embryo were extremely scarce, so the Shanghai master thought of a way to replace the cake embryo with chestnuts: the syrup was boiled with chestnuts, cooked thoroughly and stirred into a paste, and the chestnuts were piled into the shape of the cake embryo, and then coated with a thick layer of whipped cream or white cream on the net.
This chestnut spare tire is much more expensive than the original.
Kesling originally made a large cake by inch, with rubies modified into small cups, accompanied by their proud whipped cream, and a bright red cherry, which will remain unchanged for eternity.
|beat |
Don't look at the name awkwardly, its original name is, butter biscuit.
It's not a cookie, it's a toasted rusk. Sweets lovers will not let go of sugar and butter added to the crazy white whiskey, that is simply, while shouting greasy and can't stop.
As for eating these anywhere, please give us more time to come with you.
Figure | jason canon stable min
Wen | blublu
Edited | blublu