Just like the rise of the "Whitening Party", "nicotinamide" has been crowned. The rapid rise in the demand for anti-aging has also ignited the ingredient a-alcohol.
According to the "White Paper on China's Online High-growth Consumer Market" released by Magic Mirror Market Intelligence, in 2020, Taobao Tmall a-alcohol skin care products sales reached 1.28 billion yuan; in 2021 q2, Vitamin C and Vitamin A skin care products, sales on Taobao Tmall totaled 7.831 million yuan, an increase of 27931% year-on-year.
Brands with alkol as the main ingredient have also quickly become popular. According to business staff data, as of June 2021, the cumulative sales of Polaria Ruby Essence with "a alcohol" as the selling point have exceeded 400,000 bottles on the Ali platform. According to the data of the brand's internal delivery system, as of now, hbn retinol essence milk is selling more than 65w bottles on the whole network, and Ludeqing aol anti-aging repair cream Tmall has sold more than 800,000 sticks.
But the "strange" thing is that behind the lively market, the sound of "singing down" a alcohol has begun to appear.
The usage rate increased by 138%, and the voice volume of social media ranked first in "anti-aging"
Aol, also known as retinol, is a member of the vitamin A family and is currently recognized as one of the effective anti-aging ingredients in the world.
Originally owned by Johnson & Johnson Group, "Ludeqing", which has more than 20 years of experience in a-alcohol research, was applied to cosmetic products, and has been popularized since then, gradually becoming a star ingredient in the field of anti-aging.
According to the big data of beautiful practice, in 2020, the use rate of a-alcohol (retinol) ingredient increased by 138% year-on-year; since this year, a-alcohol (retinol) and its derivative ingredient "retinol palmitol" have ranked among the top 30 in the list of functional ingredients, ranking 13th and 21st respectively. It can be seen that the application of this ingredient in cosmetic products is constantly expanding.
2021 Functional Ingredients List Top 30
Data CR: Beautiful Practice Big Data Bebd
Doubling the number of product filings can also justify this statement. According to the relevant data of the State Food and Drug Administration, as early as 2019, the number of related products containing aol ingredient was only 1010, and by 2020, the number of related filings reached 2031, an increase of more than 100%.
As of August 13, Pinguan app found that the number of "a alcohol" related products was 3639, and the number of "retinol" related products reached 1227.
In the sales market, a-alcohol products are also popular among consumers. At present, there are 2,028 a-alcohol/retinol-related products on the Tmall platform, with the highest monthly sales of more than 30,000 single products; on the Jingdong platform, the number of retinol-related products has reached 17,000.
On major social platforms, the discussion about a alcohol and "morning c and evening a" has also entered a white-hot stage. According to the statistics of users, since February this year, the social media volume of a-alcohol (retinol) has officially surpassed the anti-aging "elder component" peptide, becoming the first hot anti-aging component.
"'Morning c late a' is an important formula for the axol component with fire." According to Lin Feiwu, technical director of Guangzhou Jahwa Chemical Co., Ltd., "morning c and late a" is to use skin care products containing vitamin c ingredients (including prototype vc and vc derivatives) in the morning to prevent photoaging; at night, skin care products containing vitamin a class ingredients (including a alcohol, a aldehyde, a ester) are used to help the skin fight aging. This combination of playing methods can better achieve anti-aging effect while improving the safety of product use.
At present, the video about "morning c evening a" on Douyin has been played up to 150 million times; the #morning c evening a# Weibo topic has been read 33.998 million times and the discussion volume has exceeded 35,000; and the grass planting notes on "morning c and evening a" on the Little Red Book have also exceeded 430,000.
"A alcohol is difficult to dominate"
In stark contrast to the fiery heat of the market, many people in the industry believe that "a alcohol is difficult to form a monopoly situation".
One is that the application threshold of a-alcohol itself is high.
Bing Han, a well-known domestic skin care expert and founder of Bing Han Laboratory, once pointed out in the article "In-depth Investigation: Photodegradation, Phototoxicity and Photoceachicity of Retinoids" that aol has a certain irritation to the skin, and too high a concentration will cause symptoms such as dryness, stinging, and peeling. In addition, a-alcohol is also photosensitive and degraded under oxygen, thermal, and light conditions.
Therefore, the concentration of aol added to related products on the market is generally not high, or the use of wrapping technology for sustained release to achieve the purpose of making the product more gentle. Others directly use less irritating alkoxide derivatives instead.
According to the "Catalogue of Names of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" published by the State Food and Drug Administration, in addition to aol (retinol), it also contains 6 derivative components of "retinol/yeast polypeptide, retinol propionate, retinol retinol retinol, retinol linoleate, retinol acetate, and retinol palmitate".
The "A Alcohol Whole Family Ingredient Science Article" jointly released by Dr. Ding Xiang, Yan Antang and other self-media pointed out that in addition to the above ingredients, it also includes many new members such as aol pro, biological retinol (psoralenol), and the third-generation vitamin a derivative hpr.
Pinguan app combed the 20 hot products with "a alcohol" as the core selling point on Tmall and found that at present, "retinol palmitate" and "third-generation vitamin a derivative hpr" are widely used.
Despite the continuous innovation in application technology, there are relevant research data that nearly 30% of consumers still have intolerance to a-alcohol products. I know that there are nearly 100 discussions on "using aol products to peel and roughen the skin" and "early c and late a unreliable".
"In fact, the threshold for the application of aol is very high." The person in charge of a cosmetics research and development center said that whether it is an alcohol derivative or a wrapped sustained release technology, it has not fundamentally solved the irritating problem of a alcohol products, but only alleviated and weakened.
"Ingredients also have their own life cycle, will also go through the process from budding to decline", a cosmetics advanced formulator believes that the current development of aol in China is still in the early stages, consumers lack the correct understanding of the ingredients, the brand in the formula system and application technology also need to be improved.
The second is the diversification of ingredients, and the anti-aging "upstart" has emerged.
With the upgrading of consumer perception, the "ingredient party" is being upgraded to the "efficacy party", they are no longer keen to pay for a star ingredient, but will combine ingredients, application technology and formulation system to conduct a comprehensive evaluation of the product.
The changes on the consumer side have also prompted brands to no longer blindly follow the trend. Especially in the market environment of competition and stricter supervision, brands have begun to create personalized exclusive patented products according to their own characteristics.
At present, there are already two major "upstarts" in the anti-aging community - "Ekdoin" and "Ergothioin".
Beauty practice big data bebd shows that since the beginning of this year, these two major ingredients have become "dark horse ingredients" with the effects of "repair, regeneration" and "stability maintenance and anti-aging". At present, Bloomage Biotech, Merck, Freda and other companies have invested in the study of the composition of "icadoine". "Ergothionine" has also been applied to masks, freeze-dried powders, eye creams and other major categories.
"Diversification is a sign of the maturing healthcare market." In the view of Mei Hexiang, founder of Fotu Medicine, any ingredient has its own defects, and the advantages of beauty companies in terms of formulation system and technology are not different. Therefore, only by strengthening the application of exclusive ingredients and technologies and amplifying their own advantages can brands stand in an invincible position under the trend of personalized consumption.
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