Near the persuasion field
Guo Degang mentioned the Hongye Restaurant in Tianjin in his commentary "Shooting Liu Hanchen" - "Grandma, you are my grandmother, nothing else, it was all my fault before, you spared me, we can discuss everything." So, tomorrow, Hongye, can I ask you to do it? "Hongye?" I don't eat Hongye's food..." Yan Hexiang also came to Tianjin to look for Hongye restaurants when he said this book. Some people say that Hongye was a restaurant in the Republic of China, but in fact, it is only half right.
During the Republic of China period, there was a "Hongye Hall" on Huazhong Road near the Huizhong Hotel, a small building, a small area, which was a club for Cantonese people to gather, And Guangdong merchants often came here to drink tea and chat, and there were also a small number of private dishes, which were not open to the public. In June 1949, Huang Luming and nine other Guangdong chefs co-founded the "Hongye Canteen", which mainly operated Cantonese snacks, including char siu buns, Chengsha buns, chicken ball buns, sauce marinated pork flavor, porridge noodle rice, and authentic Cantonese dishes, and later began to host banquets. After the public-private partnership in 1956, the influence of Hongye Canteen became more and more influential.
At that time, Hongye Canteen was known as "one of the eight major restaurants in Jinmen", with a small business and a big business, and there was only one reason for success - good dishes. Hongye's flavor dishes belong to Guangzhou cuisine, one of the three major schools of Cantonese cuisine, which is characterized by many wild game, many vegetables, and strong local flavor. The chef's knife workmanship is exquisite, pay attention to nutritional collocation, and the dishes made are tender and smooth and crisp, and the shape is exquisite and beautiful, and he is also good at making adjustments according to seasonal changes - the summer and autumn flavor is light, and the winter and spring flavors are mellow. Not only did it scream loudly among Tianjin diners, but even the overseas Chinese who came to Tianjin also came to visit.
Cantonese snacks
Among them, braised beef whip, sunflower beef breast, eight treasures of fish soup, white jade treasures, oyster sauce phoenix wing, oyster sauce beef, rolled phoenix homecoming, money chicken, oyster sauce tofu, Gulao tofu and so on as representatives, Cantonese flavor is enough. The most famous dish is the iron grilled fish, Huang Luming did the best - with flounder, osmanthus or thick fish cut into large pieces, dipped in soy sauce, cooking wine, the oil pot is heated, the fish is fried in the pan until six or seven ripe, fished out in a golden brown, the onion is cut into strips and fried in the pan, put on the Western spicy soy sauce, cooking wine, a little soy sauce, sugar, a little salt, cover the fish pot with a lid and slow heat for 20 minutes, the taste is sweet.
Many celebrities like Hongye Canteen, including Zhang Shouchen and Luo Yusheng, as well as the well-known gourmet, Zhang Xueliang's younger brother Zhang Xueming, who is a regular visitor here. Zhang Lilin, the son of Mr. Zhang Shouchen, once recalled that in 1960, he and his father went to the Hongye canteen to eat and met Zhang Xueming.
That evening, Zhang Shouchen and Zhang Lilin father and son came to the Hongye Restaurant, found a table by the window and just sat down, just happened to see a person coming down from the upper floor, more than fifty years old, not very tall, dark face, two eyes shining with energy, walked to the staircase, shouted: "Shou Chen! "Walk straight toward this table. Zhang Shouchen saw that it was Zhang Xueming, and he couldn't help but look happy, but he was old at this time, and he stood up with difficulty on the table, took two steps forward with trembling, shook hands with Zhang Xueming, and invited him to sit down and talk.
Zhang Xueliang Zhang Xueming brothers
The meal was served, and the two of them ate and talked, talking about Peking Opera, Quyi, and Cantonese cuisine, but the most talked about was crosstalk, and the two sometimes looked up at the sky and laughed, sometimes shook their heads and sighed. In the conversation, "young marshal" was occasionally mentioned, and an elusive sad expression appeared on his face. It wasn't until the restaurant was about to seal the stove that Zhang Shouchen and Zhang Xueming said goodbye.
Zhang Xueming took out two cellophane large cigars with gold hoops from his arms, and said mysteriously: "This is an authentic Luzon cigar, sent by a friend a few days ago, there are two left, just now someone wanted, I was not willing to give, you come to one, I keep one." Zhang Shouchen said thank you and gladly accepted it. At that time, to buy a cigar cigarette, you need four industrial certificates, and you can only have ten industrial certificates for every hundred yuan of income, and the income of one hundred yuan at that time is basically equal to the current monthly salary of more than 10,000 yuan, which shows how high the price of cigars is, and how deep the friendship between Zhang Xueming and Zhang Shouchen is. In fact, when Zhang Xueming was the director of the Tianjin Public Security Bureau in the 1930s, he often sent a car to take Zhang Shouchen to his home after the garden was dispersed, and the two of them chatted for a night.
In the mid-1960s, Hongye Canteen was renamed "Hongwei Canteen", and Cantonese-style restaurants became fast food departments, selling braised tofu for five cents and one dime, and clear soup for two cents. Until 1981, the Hongwei Canteen was renamed "Hongye Restaurant" and resumed the cantonese cuisine business.
Whether we can inherit the tradition of "old Hongye" and train a new generation of culinary technicians is the key. Several of the restaurant's veteran chefs give technical lessons once a month, usually teaching by example, and testing the skills of apprentices at any time. Moreover, "New Hongye" is not satisfied with just restoring traditional dishes, but also constantly innovating, creating new Cantonese dishes such as Snow Treasures, White Phoenix Play Red Clouds, Bird Strip Jade Brand, Fish Shoot Blossom and so on.
Wonton, Guangdong
Around 1981, Hongye Restaurant also sold breakfast for a while, which was very different from Tianjin breakfast, which was Cantonese-style wonton, wonton noodles and char siu buns. Wonton skin is mixed with one or two or five eggs per kilogram of noodles, and the by-products of each kilogram of pork are four eggs, one dollar for monosodium glutamate, four dollars for sesame oil, and one or two pieces of soy sauce. There are mussels, dried shrimp, sugar, monosodium glutamate and so on in the rib soup. The price is relatively expensive, but it can be sold out every day, which has left a deep impression on many Tianjin people.
The business of "Hongye" is on fire, and the brand is ringing again. There were more than a dozen Hong Kong youths who came here to eat, and after eating, they were particularly happy, praised the dishes well cooked, and went to the back kitchen to find the masters to take a group photo. In the early 1980s, Hongye Restaurant's monthly turnover reached more than 40,000 yuan, and the business was very prosperous, and it was full every day.
In November 1988, Hongye Restaurant reopened after renovation, the area of the restaurant increased from the original 200 square meters to 300 square meters, in addition to the first floor business, the second and third floors were added to the elegant seat, was rated as "Grade A Restaurant". In 1993, Hongye Restaurant took the lead in contracting operations by taking the road of horizontal alliance and attracting funds. However, not long after, with the continuous adjustment of the catering pattern, Hongye Restaurant also slowly disappeared and disappeared. Later, it is said that the teacher of "Hongye" founded "New Hongye", the taste is not to be discussed, but in terms of influence, it can no longer be compared with the legendary restaurant of that year. (Text: He Yuxin)
Persuasion field