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Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

author:Sichuan flavor culture

Deyang soy sauce is a specialty of Deyang City, Sichuan Province, and has been loved by diners everywhere as one of the main condiments of Sichuan cuisine and Sichuan-style snacks.

Although it has been approved as a national geographical indication protection product, not all the soy sauce produced by Deyang is called Deyang soy sauce, and in the hearts of many old diners, only the Deyang brand series of soy sauces produced by the Deyang Soy Sauce Brewery at No. 81 Huashan North Road (now No. 355, opposite the electric factory) can bear this title.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Deyang soy sauce grade

The history of Deyang soy sauce

Deyang Soy Sauce Brewing Factory was originally a state-owned unit, founded in 1956, the initial name of the public-private partnership Deyang Soy Sauce Factory, by the merger of Heqingfeng, Heqingdong, Qingfengyuan, Ruyi and several other private old sauce gardens, the earliest Deyang soy sauce is the masterpiece of these old sauce gardens.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, there were only a few small sauce gardens in Deyang County, the production equipment was simple, the production capacity was low, and because peas were used as mother and child, the soy sauce produced was dark in color but the taste was not good, and the sales were not ideal.

In 1913, the county people Jiang Zhaosong and Jiang Zhaoxin brothers opened the Tongqingfeng Sauce Garden, according to the soy sauce brewing method learned in Chengdu, using soybeans, wheat and brine as raw materials, natural fermentation, sun and night dew, which lasted half a year to prepare soy sauce, shiny oil, dark color, strong flavor, sauce aroma, best-selling inside and outside the county. Three years later, the Jiang brothers separated, and Jiang Zhaosong opened another Qingfeng Sauce Garden.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Old photos of the city

In the past 20 years, Hong Shunyuan, Dingfenghe, Minxinghe, Qingfengyuan, Ruyi and a number of new sauce gardens have been opened, fierce competition has led to the prototype of Deyang soy sauce, and a number of later main products such as white nest oil, red soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce and soy sauce have been launched. In addition, the garden also produces tempeh, bran vinegar, curd milk and other varieties.

In 1938, Jiang Zhaosong passed away, and the sons divided Heqingfeng into two, one family using the old name and one newly established Heqingdong.

In the 1940s, Deyang soy sauce ushered in the first highlight period, there were more than a dozen distributors in Chengdu alone, and Heqingdong and Ruyi opened semicolons in Chengdu. At this time, Deyang soy sauce was not only famous throughout Sichuan, but also loved by people from other provinces in Sichuan, and after the victory of the War of Resistance, many people took Deyang soy sauce back to various places as a gift when they left Sichuan.

After merging into Deyang Soy Sauce Factory in 1956, 58 new and old sauce people continued to make Deyang soy sauce. In 1966, it was renamed as the state-owned Deyang Soy Sauce Brewery, and later changed to Deyang County Soy Sauce Brewery in Sichuan Province and Deyang City Soy Sauce Brewery in Sichuan Province. In 1996, it was restructured into a joint-stock cooperative private enterprise. In 2009, it was acquired by a private enterprise.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Late craft brewed soy sauce and white nest oil

The troika of Deyang soy sauce

There are many varieties of Deyang soy sauce, among which red soy sauce, white nest oil and craft soy sauce are the main products, and craft soy sauce is the best.

Red and white soy sauce has long existed, and the two have their own advantages in color, flavor and application. The red soy sauce is dark and juicy, the sauce is rich, and it has the magic of adding color and fragrance, which is suitable for heavy color dishes such as braised and marinated. White nest oil is relatively shallow, salty and mellow, with a special flavor, used for stir-frying, seafood, cold mix and soup seasoning, which does not cover the original color and doubles the fresh flavor.

Craft brewed soy sauce is a new product developed in 1961 after the establishment of the factory, formerly known as special white nest oil, belongs to the combination of tradition and innovation, with soybeans, wheat, shiitake mushrooms, mixed spices as raw materials, through screening cleaning, soaking and cooking, koji fermentation, leaching filtration, calm disinfection and other processes, seiko brewing sauce mash, tempeh, and then copy the set.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Late gift box soy sauce

The finished product is bright reddish brown, glossy and shiny, the sauce is fragrant, the taste is mellow and long, the amino acid content is high, the nutrition is rich, the age is undefeated, and people praise "high quality, good taste, fresh color, rich nutrition, and sincerely the best product of cooking".

At the end of the 1970s, the soy sauce factory registered the Deyang brand trademark, and after 1978, the craft brewed soy sauce was exported by the foreign trade departments of Sichuan Province and Deyang County under the brand name of Emei Brand Tianfu Lao soa wang, entering Japan, the United States, Canada, Yugoslavia, Switzerland, Thailand, Arabia and other markets. In the early 1980s, coinciding with the enlightenment stage of Sichuan cuisine going abroad, craft brewed soy sauce became a designated matching ingredient and appeared in Sino-foreign joint Sichuan restaurants in various countries.

Can Deyang soy sauce be revived

In many traditional Sichuan cuisine and Sichuan-style snacks, Deyang soy sauce plays an important role, such as the old recipe of sixty years ago, the authentic husband and wife lung slice requires that whether it is brine or juice, the qualified Deyang soy sauce should be used. Another example is Chengdu's famous Tongjing Lane vegetarian noodles, which must use Deyang soy sauce to reflect the flavor.

In the memory of many old Deyang people, the purest way to eat Deyang soy sauce is to mix soy sauce rice and mix noodles, and the hot rice drops a few drops of Deyang soy sauce are turned together, and the whole bowl is immediately sprayed. Even on the way to the bulk soy sauce, licking two bottles can be very satisfying.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Marinated meat mixed with Vegetables with Deyang soy sauce

In the 1980s and 1990s, when Deyang soy sauce was the most beautiful, it was repeatedly awarded at all levels. But why is it that such a long-established Sichuan flavor with good reputation and strength will disappear today? Could it be that changes in raw materials, processes, equipment and demands have left the old tradition outdated? Maybe the business philosophy can't keep up with the rhythm? Or is it too profit-seeking to make everyone faint?

For more than a hundred years, from private to joint venture, from state-run to private, Deyang soy sauce has experienced from scratch, from rise to fall, leaving countless old diners with a touch of salty and fresh sauce taste memory. At the end of 2018, a lawsuit made the "Deyang" brand trademark still nationalized, and the relevant departments were ambitious and full of confidence in reviving the glory of Deyang soy sauce. We'll see how it turns out.

Disappearing Sichuan flavor famous product, "Deyang soy sauce"

Soy sauce bibimbap

Some of the pictures are from the Internet and are for illustrative purposes only

#Eat in China# #闪光时刻 Theme Essay Issue II #

#Eat in Deyang # #吃在四川 #

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